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Taco 007 too small?

Started by GearDrive, October 29, 2013, 12:10:30 PM

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GearDrive

I just installed a CB5036. I added a garage heater made from a car radiator and can't seem to get good flow thru it. The furnace works fine when I bypass it. The rad sits 7ft off the floor, and the supply line goes into the bottom of the left tank with the cap on top. I had to "T" in a valve on the right tank outlet to get all the air out of the system. Am I doing something wrong? Or do I need an 009?

thecfarm

I have a unit heater,it's really what you described,but I have a fan behind mine. I have an 007 too. Mine unit is about 7 feet off the floor too. I have one in my basement too. I have no idea what maybe wrong,but the 007's work for me. In fact I had some bigger ones and they was too big.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

WmFritz

Without knowing your line length's,  size and number of fittings, we can't even guess at the amount of head you need.

The 007 is good for about 10 feet of head and will flow about 20 gallons a minute. What I'm curious about is the location of the supply inlet. You say its at the bottom the tank?  Is the return outlet at the top? If possible, I would try swapping the two around. Or at least try rotating the radiator 90°.  I'm not sure any pump can overcome the pressure of moving water up through the rad. Any pictures?
~Bill

2012 Homebuilt Bandmill
1959 Detroit built Ferguson TO35

GearDrive

75ft from boiler to house, 30ft to water heater, 30ft to furnace, 30ft back to thermopex where the bypass valves are for the garage heater. 30ft to garage heater. 1" pex lines with 3/4npt fittings. Total elevation change of 15ft. The highest point above pump is 5-6ft.

I put a garden hose in the rad before I installed it, and it kept up with the flow.

From what I understand, is that you want to supply exchangers from the bottom.

The return is on top of the tank on the other side of the rad.

r.man

If you can easily move the rad down to the floor temporarily it will answer the head question. How much flow did you get out of the bleed valve when you bled the air? If you didn't let it run, and you can, I would check the flow out of the bleed valve at normal height and at the floor.
Life is too short or my list is too long, not sure which. Dec 2014

GearDrive

I had a lot of flow when bleeding. Once the air was out, I had no flow.

turbo885

the tubes are to small in a car radiator it wont flow

GearDrive

Quote from: turbo885 on October 30, 2013, 12:05:06 PM
the tubes are to small in a car radiator it wont flow

Really?

It flowed while a garden hose was put in it.
It flowed while it was in a car.

How is it different?

sprucebunny

You might need a "monoflow" fitting instaed of just a T. It directs the flow into the rad instead of it just wandering around where it wants.

http://yaunco.com/ycreport/july99noframe/redring.html
MS193, MS192 and an 026  Weeding and Thinning. Gilbert Champion sawmill

r.man

Could you please describe in more detail the valve/tee setup where the lines go to the garage. Am I right when I think you mean the lines come into your basement from your OWB and then go to the garage. Also do you mean the whole setup stops heating if the garage is included in the loop?
Life is too short or my list is too long, not sure which. Dec 2014

GearDrive

I'll try and take photos tonite.

Yes, the water seems to stop flowing, or very slow, with the rad in the loop.

GearDrive

My lines travel to the DHW first, then to the forced air furnace for the house, then to the garage, then back to the basement, to the OWF.

The bypass valves are at the entrance of the Themopex into the basement.

GearDrive

With Valve 1 closed, and valve 2 open,(garage bypassed) I have good flow.

With valve 2 closed and valve 1 open, poor flow.

Ivan49

If I understand you right you only have one pump in your system. Is this correct? I have a car radiator also and I have a 50 run to the pole barn and about a 6 foot rise. I am feeding from the top and out the bottom then back to the furnace. I have an 007 pump running it. My heater has fittings on it so I can bypass the radiator if I want. I have an 007 pump going to the house also. You may have to have another pump in your system 

GearDrive


sprucebunny

Looking at your drawing... it is easier for the water to just go back to the OWB than it is for it to go to the radiator unless you are closing the center valve. Are you closing that one and still not getting flow/heat ???
MS193, MS192 and an 026  Weeding and Thinning. Gilbert Champion sawmill

GearDrive

Yes, center valve (valve 2) closed.

sprucebunny

Do you have a way to check the temp of the water before the rad and after the furnace ( at valve 1 ) ?

Unless there is another loop off the system somewhere that connects back to the return after the rad, it Has to flow thru the rad. when valve 2 is closed.
MS193, MS192 and an 026  Weeding and Thinning. Gilbert Champion sawmill

Ivan49

Do you know what the water temp is where it is going into the garage rad? You may be almost out of heat by the time it gets there. I would add the second pump if it was me

sprucebunny

When you tested the flow in the rad with a hose, was the input to the same place ?
I got wondering if radiators have monoflows in them....
MS193, MS192 and an 026  Weeding and Thinning. Gilbert Champion sawmill

Holmes

I think Sprucebunny is on the right track. You may need mono flow tees but...  Head has no relationship to height, it is a term for resistance and friction loss.. A car radiator has very small tubes in it and that creates a large friction loss or a lot of head.  The 007 might be to small, but if it is piped wrong then pump size will not solve the problem.  I could not open the picture you posted so I can't see how the piping is installed
Think like a farmer.

Corley5

I'd add a distribution manifold with two 007 size circulators, one for the garage and one for the house with another larger one feeding the manifold.  I prefer Grundfos over tacos  ;) ;D



 

I don't have a pic showing the main pump.  It's to the right and down.  These circulate water through tubing in the 1st and 2nd floor.  One for each floor.



    
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

thecfarm

Not that it matters,my pumps are behind the OWB.



 

And this is my unit heater in the basement,



 
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Corley5

I've got one pump on the stove that feeds the old part of the house.  It'll be moved into the basement eventually.  I'd rather have the pumps in the building if elevations allow it.
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

WmFritz

All good advice from everybody that I can see to get the flow issue resolved.

Having all the heat exchangers on one circuit, even with enough flow, has got to be hard on the boiler. As far as firebox condensation.
~Bill

2012 Homebuilt Bandmill
1959 Detroit built Ferguson TO35

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