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Sawing Reclame Fir (Haveing Trouble)

Started by Mt406, March 29, 2017, 10:48:15 PM

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Mt406

Having 300hr on my Band saw and 500+ on my swing blade I though I had a handle on sawing. The wood gremlins struck today.
I am being humbled by some reclaimed fir.
I am sawing with a Lt 35 Hyd 25hp
Using Kasco 7 and some that I sharpened to 4 with about 28 thousand  set
Twice today I had a blade dive deep enough to go off the guide rollers and come off the drive wheels. That makes a sound you don't forget.
These are 4x15 beams I am resawing to 2 in.
I am using diesel and bar oil to cut the pitch build up.
I can usably cut at about the 11 o clock mark and have to slow way down.
The saw dust is like fine flower instead of course chips and sticky and will plug the gullet.
I have 6 more to cut from 7 ft to 14 ft.
I am planning to run water with cascade tomorrow. I know my blade is getting hot.
at times I can see the saw dust being discharged in the middle of blade and not up in the gullet.

Any suggestions on what might help more set in blade or less.
is reshaping a 7 to a 4 bad idea with the 7s deeper gullet.


Thanks

Scott 
   

ladylake

 How long are you running your blade, that reclaimed lumber will dull them fast.  For me blades with a shallower gullet saw straighter.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

MartyParsons

Hello,
   
Fine sawdust, most likely from feed rate to slow.

Fine sawdust spills over the blade past the gullet and does cause heat or friction.

Is the blade getting build up or sap sticking to the blade? This will remove the set as the blade gets thicker from the build up and again causing more friction.

I have not sawed any Fir from the West Cost.   If I was sawing Fir or was having issues with the resawing I would try the bi metal 10 degree. We have many customers who are using it for difficult sawing woods.
I would also try the 7/39 Turbo blade as it seems to be my blade of choice.

Not related but may help. We had a customer who has sawed 130  Red Oak and White Oak beams for a Timber Frame in October 2016. Last week he needed to saw them 1" smaller after the logs had been drying. The 7 /39 blade had an issue sawing the drier wood. Fine sawdust and wavy cuts.  We brought the mill to the shop and about 10 cants or beams. We did try some blades of different angles. What we found to work the best was the 7/39 ( which is what sawed the logs into the beams with) We removed .002 set from the tooth ( total of .004) and it cut like the green wood cut. No more issues just by changing the set .004.
Being the wood had dried on the outside and was green or moisture content was more inside made a big difference on how the blade reacted.


Hope this helps.

Marty
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

justallan1

My thinking says...Reclaimed=Old growth, now add Dry knots=HARD knots, plus dry logs/beams=hot blades.
I think I'd treat them like a hardwood and use 4 degree blades with lots of lube.
Just my .02

redbeard

Are you skinning the beam on first cut?
It's really hard on any blade you use. It will rise on the hard knots. Try splitting the  4x beam and you might gain a little more material on top of blade making your 2" cut.
Rust from nails is a issue also, if you can take a good 1/4" off edge you can get more blade life. I use 7° regular blades and bi-metal Lennox woodmasters if reclaim is heavy on nails there's always a few broken of nails embedded.
Whidbey Woodworks and Custom Milling  2019 Cooks AC 3662T High production band mill and a Hud-son 60 Diesel wide cut bandmill  JD 2240 50hp Tractor with 145 loader IR 1044 all terrain fork lift  Cooks sharp

Mt406

Thanks for the input
I got though it I used plenty of water to cool blade with cascade and some pine sol.
If pitch was still building up I used some diesel.
I used some of the 4s I sharpened set to around 30
still had to go slow but the saw dust was a little coarser.
It was the wide cuts that gave me the hard time 15-16 in.
Job ended up 13 hrs 2 blades junk from diving  and going past guide rollers, to junk from hardened screws , 2 dulled from nails can be sharpened
and 2 dull.
I don't know the board feet it wasn't big for sure.

loading some pics
some of the wide boards are a little ruff I don't know if it was a bad set job or vibration I also set my blade tendon up a little

  

  

  

  

  

Thanks again

Scott

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