washing the chains

[Button]

  From what I understand grinding dirty chains can render a wheel useless. I have heard that the best way to clean chains before grinding is to wash them in kerosene and let them drip dry overnight before sharpening. Is this correct?  I was also thinking of rigging up a jig out of an old bar that would blast compressed air on both sides as the chain is passed along the rail. Does any of this sound feasible? TIA
Peter

[Duane_Moore]

Button, I just wash mine off in a petrolum distilate. Gas, Kerosene, Diesel, even paint thinner, then dry off with air and grind, haven't hurt a stone yet in 5 yrs,  Duh---Duane   boy bet I get some comments on this

[tawilson]

I have a comment and a question. Stihl chains tell you to soak them in motor oil before using. Is that necessary, and if so, should it be done again after a cleaning?
Another comment and question. I hand file my chains and never thought to clean them first. It seems like I go through a lot of files. Is that why, or is my file life normal? I don't have any numbers on sharpenings per file, just gut feeling.

[OneWithWood]

Button, welcome to the forum!  I believe you are the first from the African continent.  8) 8) 8)
Please go to the member map plant a tree, and complete your bio.  You can get to the member map by selecting it from the toolbar.

It makes sense to me to clean the chain before sharpening, though I must admit I have not been doing that.  

Ta, I think your correct about lower file life.  I hand file also and I am sure that crap on the chain lessons the effectiveness of the file.  As for the soak in oil, I have not heard that, but I will admit I have never read the indo sheet that comes with the chain very closely.  I guess I will give that a try  :P

[Tom]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Button.

I never heard of a grinding wheel taking a beating from dirt.  It almost seems like a problem not worth worrying about, doesn't it.  It's not that I'm saying that the problem doesn't exist, it's just that stone is an abrasive that cuts metal and what little bit of dirt or wood on a chainsaw tooth that didn't get kicked off on initial contact would just be more abrasive.

I'm interested in the answers to your question.  Lots of people don't understand how quickly touching the ground can dull a chainsaw or how quickly the sand in the bark of a log can dull a bandsaw.  I'm one, I guess, that doesn't know how quickly dirt dulls a stone. :D

Looking forward to your coninued membership.

[J_T]

Welcome  8) I have seen some files that were junk when I got them and they don't get any better. I don't have time to clean a chain when I get a chance to saw. Cheper to file fast and keep cutting can recope file and chain cost in production.

[Frickman]

Welcome Button!
The important thing when grinding or filing a chain is keeping away from oil and grease, not dirt. Oil and grease will ruin a file and plug up a grinding wheel. As long it is not excessive, dirt and sawdust shouldn't affect a grinding wheel.

I too have heard that Stihl recomends soaking their new chains in oil overnight prior to use. They of course recomend their bar and chain oil. I have never done this, and never met anyone who has. When I put on a new chain I make certain that it is getting oil and I go cut. I've never had a problem with them.

[beenthere]

I've never done it, never heard it being done, never seen anyone else do it, never had a problem that seems to be associated with not doing it, and never plan to start doing it.

Now, that doesn't, by any stretch of the mind, mean that it isn't a good idea for those who want to spend the extra time, as it probably can't do any harm. I do notice after cutting red oak that there is staining of the chain from the tannin reacting with the steel, and this may have a minute effect on chain life. Other tree species, like those tropical ones that have a lot of silica in them, may warrant cleaning (washing) chains.

OneWithWood   ??  How did Button get from CT to Africa?

[jokers]

I`ll tell you what the deal is regarding dirty chains and grinding.Grinding wheels need to be periodicaly dressed, not only to refresh the profile but to expose sharp crystals as well. A "dull" wheel is more likely to burn the cutters than a "sharp" wheel. This problem is compounded by wheels that becomed loaded with oily gunk from dirty chains. The same would apply to files to a somewhat lesser extent.

File life can be extended by buying good files and never backdragging them across the tooth. Apply firm pressure to take a good cut rather than a lighter stroke which is more likely to burnish the tooth and dull the file. Also store the file between uses in some type of sleeve or case that prevents it from rubbing on other files, or anything else for that matter, and don`t let your files stay wet if they get wet.

Russ

[beenthere]

Jokers
That makes a lot of good sense to me. I file by hand, and file as you describe. I don't use a file too often before switching to a new one. Nothing aggravates me more than trying to file with a dull file, as I grew up with nothing but old dull files. And to watch someone drag a file backwards drives me nuts.

Thanks for the input.

[Frickman]

Another thing to remember is to not touch the teeth on a file. Just the natural oils on your hands will mess them up.

[Duane_Moore]

 ;)  well Button.. How am I doing?? got it stired up? thats me... I do not hand file chains. Too Lazy. Normally I carry about 5 or 6 chains with me per day, Change and rotate bar about every 2 hrs.Fill up with gas, drink coffee, smoke, fill with oil. dip new chain in bar oil in a coffee can, goose it a little, then go saw. If  ya even say the word DIRT to a chain its dull. change it go on. Carry an old parts brush in your tool kit, clean out chain area when ya change chains, I have soaked chains for days in oil, diesel, WD40, don't seam to change a thing. I dress my stone reg, Bricks are cheap. I enjoy setting in the shop of an evening and sharpening chains, get to look at them real good,ware patterns, burn spots, weak spots, raker heigth, ect. then when I put one on the next time and it cuts good, it makes me feel proud. Chains are fun to play with, you can make them do lots of things,  Hope we can help ya,   Duh---Duane 8)

[OneWithWood]

Beenthere,
I could have sworn there was a Ugandan flag or some reference to Uganda in Buttons first post  ???

Button, sorry if I got confused and placed you so far from home.  At least the weather is warmer in Uganda than Conneticut  

 :-[

[Tom]

You did. :D  I saw it and fixed it.  It happens frequently when someone clicks Uganda instead of USA which is right next to it.  

[Button]

 Sorry ,I clicked uganda by mistake. Thanks for the replies. I also got tired of the filing. It seems I am always trying to cut rocks so to fix them requires a lot of filing. Now I will try to grind them. It was costing my 60-75$ a year to send them out so the new grinder was justified, at least that what I told the mrs.  :D Enjoy the day

[kenskip1]

My opinion,
   When sharpening a chain, I take a steel coffee can with kerosene. A magnet is on the bottom of the can. I File the chain with light smooth strokes. You should never have to force the file into the chain. As the cutter gets beyond the 65% removed, I will switch to a smaller file. This is to prevent the file from cutting the link.The rakers are set between .020-.035 for most 3/8 chains. The chain is again immersed into the coffee can and cleaned. The magnet will collect the filings and you should be able to see them.
How can you tell if a file is dull? Simply look at the file and look for shiny spots. A sharp file will not reflect light.Same for the chain cutting edge. Next the chain is dryed and lightly oiled and placed in a zip lock bag. This is how I do it and I have had many comments (Favorable) as how the chain cuts.  Hope someone has learned something.
 The magnet goes on the outside bottom of the can!
                                                       Ken

[logbutcher]

Thx for the idea Ken: magnet in a coffee can w kerosene/oil before and after sharpening !!  8)
Once caught a sliver of steel filing in my eye after sharpening. Yes, wore full protection but not lexan eye protection. The filings go thru the wire mesh. The E Room use magnets for metal in eyes as well as scary tweezers.
A hand for full PPE here.
Now: Medaglio d'Oro expresso cans are the finest for this. Drink first.   :P
a.j.

[tony_marks]

  as to soaking chains in oil after they are sharpened ,,im a believer in that  occasionaly,, to  help free the  links up and
 hopefully remove sap etc..dont know about most, but my chains tend to get  less free movement after cutting .. especially in sappy wood. jmo