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Chainsaw fuel help please

Started by KAR 120C, February 10, 2019, 09:01:10 AM

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KAR 120C

Good afternoon from the south of England!

A cry for help please!

I purchased a new Husqvarna 450 e-series chainsaw recently and would like to know what 2 stroke oil would best suit it? The saw engine has never been run. Do chainsaws require any special type of 2 stroke oil or can I use readily available automotive 2 stroke oil? Also, am I right in believing 2 stroke oil comes in synthetic and mineral versions? If so, which would suit my saw best?

Any help will be very much appreciated.

Michael

Old Greenhorn

Hello Kar and welcome to the forum! Good question, however, you have it posted in the wrong subject title in the forum. We have one here specifically for chainsaws. I hope one of the moderators will find this post and move it over there for you where it will be more readily seen by folks I consider experts in this stuff. Asking about oil types can provoke interesting discussions, however, pretty much any 2 stroke oil will get you through. I have never heard of 2 stroke oil for cars. Most chainsaw manufacturers will have something available under their own brand name. I use Husqvarna oil or a generic 2 stroke il for small engines, depending on my mood and what I find at a fair price. I mix all my stuff at 50:1. I am NOT an expert, but I get by OK.
 Again, I welcome you to the forum, encourage you to fill out some basic profile info because it helps folks know where you are and they can give you more focused advice. You may even find some folks local to you. I am pretty sure a moderator will be along shortly to put this post in the proper place to get you some better answers 
Cheers,
Tom.
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

KAR 120C

I do apologise for placing my post incorrectly, less speed, more hast!

Thank you Tom for answering my enquiry. Regarding automotive 2 stroke oil, There are very few if any cars that I can think of this side of the millenium that are designed to run on 2 stroke fuel. I feel sure they may exist but I do not know of any. I do believe however, there are a number of motorcycle and scooter manufacturers still producing machines designed to run on 2 stroke fuel.

Thank you again.

Michael

Southside

Welcome to the Forum,

Like Tom said saw oil is one of those Chevy/Ford/Dodge questions.  Personally, in my own Husky saws (372's + 395) I use marine injection oil as I can buy a gallon at at time for the price of just a few of the small pre-measured bottles and I mix it into a 1.5 gallon can at a time.  

What may be more critical for you is not so much the oil brand but how often you will use your saw as modern gas with ethanol will spoil and cause issues in the fuel lines and carburetor if it sits too long.  If you are going to only use the saw on occasion or only a certain time of year then it may be money well spent to get the branded pre-mix fuel that Husky sells.  Comes in metal cans here in the US with a screw on top.  It's not "real" gasoline but a different chemical combination and is shelf stable and won't cause issues if it sits around for a while.  Yes, it's more expensive, but in the end may be a better option if this saw won't see regular use.   
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Old Greenhorn

@Southside logger brings up a great point (see, that's why I said you need the smart folks to weight in on this). This is a fight I DO have a dog in. @KAR 120C can you purchase non-ethanol gas in your area? If not, I would strongly suggest you follow Southside's advice. If you can get non-ethanol fuel, I would still use a treatment like Sta-Bil or your local equivalent to treat your fuel. I began doing this 5 years ago with all my small engines because I got tired of having to clean and rebuild carburetors every time I tried to start and engine I had not used in a while. I have not had to do this since I made that change. 5 years, and no carb work on any of my stuff. Good Luck.
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

lxskllr

Lots of opinions on oil. As a general rule, I prefer full synthetic anything, and I wouldn't use anything that wasn't specifically marketed for small engine use. Other stuff may work fine, but sticking to the rules is more foolproof imo, and the dealer can't say you screwed up and won't honor the warranty if you do things the "approved" way.

doc henderson

I have Stihl saws and use their oil.  It has a stabilizer in it.  It is good to keep fresh fuel and some advocate dumping fuel from a rarely used motor, back into a can to be used up in other things, and run the saw/motor dry to clear the carb.  I tried to buy aviation fuel for no ethanol and higher octane, but I am told it is no longer legal for private use prob. post 9/11.  
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

lxskllr

Quote from: doc henderson on February 10, 2019, 11:53:30 AM
  I tried to buy aviation fuel for no ethanol and higher octane, but I am told it is no longer legal for private use prob. post 9/11.  
I believe aviation fuel has lead. Not something I want exhausting ~2' from my face. The stupid engine can just seize up, and I'll buy another one if it comes to that.

Tasha

In England, Super unleaded is normally ethanol free. Premium unleaded has up to 10% ethanol in it.  

As has been stated above ethanol laced petrol that sits more than a week can have bad effects on small engines (i.e. your saw).  Try hard to avoid the ethanol laced petrol.  I like to use the Stihl Ultra 2 cycle oil (full synthetic) in my Stihl saws.  I am certain that Husqvarna also has a good quality synthetic based 2-cycle oil.  Lots of folks use whatever they have. (not a believer in that technique). I believe in taking great care of my equipment and using a high quality oil with the best gas will minimize any issues that come up.

Try not to mix up more at a time than you will use quickly is what most good saw shops will tell you.

Rebarb

I have access to non ethanol fuel and mix it 50:1 with synthetic......PLUS add a can of Tru fuel or the like.
Used Echo and Husqvarna versions also.

Loggers round here do 40:1 

In my opinion, I'd break-in a new saw using canned fuel exclusively, it's good stuff.

realzed

I personally use the best oil I can find - not realistic or a very good place to scrimp or 'cheap out' in my opinion.. and in my case it's Stihl Ultra synthetic which I mix at a 40:1 ratio, a bit richer than recommended by Stihl..
Husky I think offers their own equivalent, if I'm not mistaken 
I also for my own peace of mind, use the highest octane - ethanol-free pump gas I can track down (which I'm told is Shell 91 around here) and I mix it close to 50/50 with some 100LL aviation fuel which I usually have in some quantity anyway, since I burn it in my old restored car.
There are a lot worse things in the air to be sucking in, than whatever miniscule bit of lead this deal might present in my estimation - good examples being, ending up behind a school or city bus, or large diesel truck in traffic and having to inhale in all of the fumes they always pump out!   

doc henderson

I agree that lead is good for octane and bad for people.  This is why it was removed from auto fuels and overall levels are reduced in humans.  It is bad for the developing brain as in children,  I sure would not use it in an enclosed space among other reasons as well such as carbon monoxide.  Paint was the big culprit because lead, (like ethylene glycol) has a sweet taste and kids would eat the paint chips.  The sweet taste is why dogs will drink antifreeze and die.  I think an adult operating a saw outdoors is at little risk to himself and will contribute little to the load in the air.  Normal carbon monoxide levels are normally up to 5% in non smokers, and 10% in smokers.  levels at 50% can be fatal.  CO binds to hemoglobin at a 200 x more powerful bond than oxygen.  The treatment is high concentration oxygen.  They are trying to find a sub. for lead in aviation fuel, but nothing practical has been found
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

AZ_builder

I've always used stihl oil. No good reason other than I run stihl saws. 91 octane and stabil. Never let it sit with fuel long enough to need the stabil but it's peace of mind.

snowstorm

the old sabb cars were 2 stroke 3 cyl

Al_Smith


sawguy21

Uh oh, you got Al's attention :D :D I only cut to entertain the kids at our collector's club gtg so the saws don't see much use. I use Stihl oil at 50:1 in everything and never had a problem but really should switch to canned fuel.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

AZ_builder

Canned fuel is good stuff but gets pricey! I used to only cut a few months a year for firewood and ran stihl motimix. Saw ran great! But once I started to play wood worker it got to expensive for me.

Inaotherlife

I'd buy canned premix in the quart/liter size until you get four cans. And then save the cans to put your future mixed gas in.

I've been using Echo Red Armor oil. It has stabilizers in it and claims to be good for 2 years after mixing when stored in properly sealed containers.
The 16oz squeeze measure bottle is pretty handy. Makes 6 gallons, a gallon at a time.
Red Armor Family of Products

I like putting my mixed gas in the quart size Trufuel cans as they seal very well, and are easy to pour straight into the tank out of. 
And there's usually enough room in the saw case to keep a can of fuel and a quart bottle of bar oil.
Also, no chance of mistaking one plastic gas can for another. It goes in four of the quart/litre cans as soon as I mix it.

lxskllr

I like those squeeze bottles. I'm probably switching from Stihl oil just to get one.

Al_Smith

 :D If you all don't mind I think I'll set this one out .This grand old debate is endless and amusing .Do carry on but remember --spare the oil spoil the saw . ;)

lxskllr

I just learned my plastic Nalgene fuel bottle is a collectors item. Highly desired, and bring north of $80 on ebay. I was looking for a backup in case something happened to mine. I like that as my backpack fuel when I have to go crosscountry to cut. I've saved a metal quart of premix, but the neck's too small to fit my epa 1G can spout inside, so it's harder to fill. You also can't see inside. The plastic is nice cause you can see how much is in it without peering down the neck.

doc henderson

I use the stihl oil and correct me if I am wrong, but I was told it has stabilizer in it.  Here is a pic of it with may container which the oil and gas can match volume.  Prob. a metric to sae thing, but used to not be able to get a 1 dose oil container to match you fuel container size.  These are both for 2.5 gallons.  The spring loaded on off button helps to not slosh gas all over or over filling.  You really do not want gas all over you clothes and to operate a hand held internal combustion engine.




 




 




 






Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Rebarb

Quote from: Al_Smith on February 11, 2019, 08:27:52 AM
:D If you all don't mind I think I'll set this one out .This grand old debate is endless and amusing .Do carry on but remember --spare the oil spoil the saw . ;)
Lol, are you trying to say oil threads get opinionated. 
" spare the the oil spoil the saw " ?
Old testament ?

Old Greenhorn

 When this started I do recall writing:
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on February 10, 2019, 09:19:10 AMAsking about oil types can provoke interesting discussions

:) :)
I use the same system as Doc, but with a 1.1 gal jug and the smaller husky oil suited to that size (or the generic with a metering cup on the bottle). I too like those gas can spouts for the saw but because the nozzle JUST fits in the fuel hole I have managed to spill gas half the time I fill it anyway because I don't see it when it gets near the top. You just can't help some guys.
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

doc henderson

Quote from: Old Greenhorn on February 11, 2019, 07:40:55 PM:) :)
I use the same system as Doc, but with a 1.1 gal jug and the smaller husky oil suited to that size (or the generic with a metering cup on the bottle). I too like those gas can spouts for the saw but because the nozzle JUST fits in the fuel hole I have managed to spill gas half the time I fill it anyway because I don't see it when it gets near the top. You just can't help some guys.
At least you don't spill it every time now!!!   8)
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

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