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chain wont stay on the gears

Started by intabaa, October 29, 2016, 08:57:41 AM

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intabaa

Hello!
I have a Stihl 231 and after hitting a nail in a log the chain wont stay on the gear, now im not sure how its supposed to be but all i know is that it jumps om between the Plate över the gear and the gear when tightening it. I will try to uppload a photo on here soon.
I wish you all a very nice weekend!

intabaa

--Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!--/8ok6Fc4[/img]

dougand3

The gears are called sprockets. It jumps off the clutch sprocket? Could be bent drivers (the parts that ride inside the bar rail) or mangled tie straps. Lay chain on flat service and inspect drivers and tie straps. Try a new chain.
Husky: 372xt, 272xp, 61, 55 (x3)...Poulan: 315, 4218 (x3), 2375, 2150, 2055, 2000 (x3)...Stihl 011AVT...Homelite XL...Saws come in broken, get fixed or parted, find new homes

intabaa

Thank you for the answer!
Im not sure sure if it is right but the chain rides kinda over the sprockets and under a Plate thats just right over it. The chain does not have any visible damage.

Gearbox

This may sound dumb . Chain on backwards , bar not on the bushings , bar sitting on the adjusting pin .
A bunch of chainsaws a BT6870 processer , TC 5 International track skidder and not near enough time

intabaa

I dont know how to add photos from my gallery to the thread i but im adding Pictures there of how it looks. The chain should be on the right way and its cogs was Into the sprocket.

intabaa

I have now addes 4photos onto my gallery of what I mean, Keep in mind it gets like the when its under tension and when i try if the chain will rotate after its tightened.

dougand3

Never worked on a 231 but from pics that I've seen - looks like you have the proper parts. (I don't understand the  outside washer SMALLER than the sprocket teeth - seems like a larger washer would act as a stop to outward migration of the chain. But if Stihl made it this way - they had a reason). So, if chain is good....I'd guess a bar stud, tensioner or warped bar problem.
Bar stud torqued in plastic well?
Husky: 372xt, 272xp, 61, 55 (x3)...Poulan: 315, 4218 (x3), 2375, 2150, 2055, 2000 (x3)...Stihl 011AVT...Homelite XL...Saws come in broken, get fixed or parted, find new homes

intabaa

Im looking at the stud now and it seems like i could screw it down more, but how would i do that? There is no screw place.
I think tightening that might make sure the chain is lower down on the sprocket so this might be the problem and sulution.
Im sorry for my less than optimal english knowledge by the way.

intabaa

I got it just screwed on the Bolt onto it and just used that as screwer i got the stud down quite a bit im going out to test soon.

intabaa

Aaaaaand now i have a differet problem, the Bolt now sits tighter than the stud and when i try to get the Bolt of i just unscrew the stud also i cant seem the reach in under the Bolt with a plier without ruining the screwing

dougand3

The bar stud screws into the plastic chassis - the threaded well may be partially stripped. You can use 2 part epoxy to seat it or use trimmer line to add volume to the well to seat stud. You can remove stud easier with the latter.
Husky: 372xt, 272xp, 61, 55 (x3)...Poulan: 315, 4218 (x3), 2375, 2150, 2055, 2000 (x3)...Stihl 011AVT...Homelite XL...Saws come in broken, get fixed or parted, find new homes

Ox

Use two nuts, lock them together on the stud to turn the stud.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

intabaa

That is brilliant i Hope to find a new nut with the same screwing.

Ox

You have 2 bar nuts and studs, right?  You have everything you need.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

intabaa

I only have the original things and no more, Im guessing you mean that i remove the stud and ad one more nut to it so i can remove the stuck one. It got dark here in Sweden a few hours ägo so I have not had time to find One more nut through i dont think it will be to easy.

Gearbox

Should be 8 MM 1.25 . Somebody jump in here if I am wrong.
A bunch of chainsaws a BT6870 processer , TC 5 International track skidder and not near enough time

Texas-Jim

your correct on the size. But for life of me i dont understand what hes trying to say.
What we do in life echoes through eternity.

Caloren

In his photo's it looked like there was only one bar stud. May be just the angle the photo was taken.
Stihl MS 170, Stihl MS 310, Stihl 028 AV Super, and half a dozen other no-accounts! Cat D4 D.

intabaa

I am very new to chainsaws and the english words for tool things, I Hope i can clarify now there is only One stud and that One now has the nut (that also holds the shell) stuck onto it so when i try to get that nut loose it is rotatating the whole stud.

Magicman

My pictures show the 231 only has one bar stud.  One picture appears to show something holding the rear of the bar away from the chainsaw housing. 

Loosen the chain tension screw enough that the chain is very loose before attaching the bar.  Be sure that the tension stud engages the hole in the bar.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

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LeeB

The 4th photo in your gallery shows the bar properly engaged on the tension adjusting pin however in 1st photo the chain is not engaged on the sprocket. Did this slip off and that is what you are showing us?
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

intabaa

Yes what first happned was the chain hopping of the gear all the time, now i have the problem that the stud has the nut that sits on the Case of the chainsaw stuck Into it as i tried to tightening the stud by screwing on the nut Into it so i could use the tool that followed with the saw to make the stud tighter.

timberjack 240a

Ok. First you need to get the nut off the stud. If the stud is loose take it right out of the saw. There should be a shoulder without threads between the saw side and bar side. Try to get a good pair of pliers on that to hold it while you loosen the nut. You can wrap it in a rag first to avoid damage to any threads. If you have a vise that's even better. Now find two nuts that fit on the stud and jam the together on the stud by turning them opposite directions. Put some sort of heavy duty bonding agent on the stud and thread it back in. Be careful not to go so tight that you strip the threads out. Turn the nuts back off in opposite directions. Now but your saw down flat, not on its side. Loosen your chain tension screw all the way. Put your chain on the bar and put it on the saw. Make sure the stud, adjustment screw head, and the small peg behind that are all in the slot, and your tension pin is in the hole. Bar should be flush against the saw. Put your side cover on and loosely tighten to the point the bar will move up and down but not side to side. Tighten the chain with the tensioner while holding the bar up with two fingers. Once tight, then tighten the side cover nut. Doesn't have to be real tight. Move chain back and forth and retighten if necessary. Should be good to go. New chains stretch a lot right out of the box so keep an eye on tension. Hope that all helps
When all else fails, cut it and see what happens.
2016 kenworth t800, rotobec elite, timberjack 240a, deere 450j, kobelco 70sr, mahindra 4035, to many saws to count

intabaa

That helps Me with everything never thought of getting a cloth to not destroy the threads. Thank you all so much!

joe_indi

His saw has only one nut. No mistake there . I got this picture of the MS231 from the Stihl site.


joe_indi

It has a lateral chain tensioner, and I think the tensioner slide and the thread it moves on (part of the spur gear kit) might be damaged and would need replacement
(too many typo errors because I am using my Black Berry)

Texas-Jim

Ok if im understanding right the nut instead of loosening is turning the stud. Thats usually caused from over tightening the nut, remember they can fail above 16fbs. easiest way to get it off is simple to unscrew it, now it will remove the stud, once its off getting nut loose is easy when you can hold the stud. Inspect the threads, if they look damaged stihl offers a replacement stud with bigger threads that cuts new threads as it goes in. Put a drop of red locktite on it and your good.
What we do in life echoes through eternity.

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