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New to me sawmill...... I think...

Started by jim_wrench, June 15, 2016, 12:30:31 AM

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jim_wrench

Thanks for the ad. I've been a long time listener. First time caller looking to make my own saw dust.
Well I picked this up about a month ago. Thinking about building my own but this was alot easier and quicker..... or so I thought. At least i was able to load and unload this into the back of my little truck. Good to know for remote locations..


So now to see if it runs... with fresh fuel the honda gx270 with electric start purrs just fine.

Thinking just a few tweeks and I should be making some dust..... boy was I mistaken.....

Problem 1 mill is not level at 10 inch indicator it reads 10 inch on motor end and 9 3/4 on the other.
Problem 2 the main bearings are noisy..
Problem 3 the carriage will not adjust close enough to accept a 144 inch band.
Problem 4 the motor turns in the oposite direction.
Problem 5 the maximum raise is only about 11 inches
Problem 6 blade guide set up is horrible IMO

I figure I will have the first three problems rectified soon new bearings are a few days away 1 1/16" shaft bearings are not local. Leveling the mill should be pretty straight forward. And I am modifying the blade adjusting pulley inward 1" to get standard blades to work.

But problem number 4 has me a little stumped. I feel the blade should pull through the wood and push the log into the log stops. But this one pushes through the log.

It does look like it has been used once or twice but not that much.

The last two issues I will rectify once I see if this thing even tracks.

Thanks for any in site and assistance. I think I'm in the right place..

sandsawmill14

problem # 4 is probably how it is designed  ??? some mills cut away from the backstops so you are cutting into clean wood where you just removed the slab instead of sawing through the bark every cut :)  i know our s&w is set up this way   are the teeth pointing the right directions ???
our timberking cuts against the backstops and i like it better but both work fine but on the s&w i have to dog every log where on the timberking i rarely use the dog (log clamp) other than small or crooked logs :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

jim_wrench

Yes the teeth are pointing in the correct direction. Guess I'll put it back together and try it out I guess. Thanks for the info.

fishfighter


thecfarm

jim_wrench,welcome to the forum.
What's all the lumber going to be used for?
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Chuck White

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Jim wrench!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Czech_Made


Magicman

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, jim_wrench.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

justallan1

Jim, welcome aboard.
I can't tell by the pictures, but can you just pick up the entire carriage and turn it around? It seems that would let you saw into your stop, rather than against them.

jim_wrench

Yes I believe it's a home made mill unless who ever made this was using this as a prototype.


jim_wrench

Quote from: thecfarm on June 15, 2016, 05:49:57 AM
jim_wrench,welcome to the forum.
What's all the lumber going to be used for?
What ever I mill will only be used for myself and building things around my farm. Things like cattle shelters , rough cut fences, sheds ect....... once I become familiar with the mill(or get fed up) I will move onto building a barn, shop, and then a house. (Not really in that order) I'm thinking perhaps my wife will be wanting a bigger living quarters sooner then later. According to her the 24x36 garage package I built us to live in is a bit to cozy, for her that is.

Thanks for all the greetings........

jim_wrench

Quote from: justallan1 on June 15, 2016, 08:40:32 AM
Jim, welcome aboard.
I can't tell by the pictures, but can you just pick up the entire carriage and turn it around? It seems that would let you saw into your stop, rather than against them.

Yes I thought about that but then my close together log stops would be at the finishing end of the mill. My stops are about 3 feet apart till I get to the last 10 feet of the mill then there about 6 feet apart. Once assembled and operational this should be able to handle 18 foot long by 24 inch round logs

Kbeitz

well you wanted to build a home made mill...
Now you got the parts to do it...

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Ox

x2 what justallen1 said.  Maybe the carriage was set on the tracks backwards?
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Joe Hillmann

If you want to change the direction  of the blade put a half twist in the belt and flip the saw blades inside out.  If you do that you would want to put a small piece of metal between the two halves of the belt where it will want to rub against its self.

Ox

Joe, you've got a point.  That darn mill is turning the drive wheel the wrong way!  It's trying to push the blade through the cut instead of pulling it through.  Not good!
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Joe Hillmann

You could also change the direction of the blade by building a larger platform for the engine to ride on and turning the engine around and moving it back towards the operator about 18 inches so the pulleys line up.


Is the bottom band of the blade being pulled on or pushed on by the driving wheel?  If it is being pulled on leave it as it is.  If it is being pushed then the direction should be changed.

Ox

These engines spin counter clockwise looking at the shaft.  The bottom of the blade is being pushed!  If this is a "factory" made machine it's messed up, that's for sure.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

jim_wrench

Quote from: Joe Hillmann on June 15, 2016, 10:37:52 AM
If you want to change the direction  of the blade put a half twist in the belt and flip the saw blades inside out.  If you do that you would want to put a small piece of metal between the two halves of the belt where it will want to rub against its self.
Very much interested in seeing a belt like this in action and how is the life span of the belt in this? Yes I believe the drive set up is backwards for sure. This thing looks like a home made affair for sure. Just not by me. But I will give the builder some credit he did build it with guards. Something o might have overlooked till later on in the build.

Bruno of NH

Some one just posted in this forum they bought a LumberJack sawmill head rig only .
Is this from the same company maybe ?
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

jim_wrench

Quote from: Bruno of NH on June 15, 2016, 06:14:44 PM
Some one just posted in this forum they bought a LumberJack sawmill head rig only .
Is this from the same company maybe ?
I suppose it's possible. If so I must have a very early version with wooden wheels and alot of pop rivets. I'll post upore pictures soon.

Kbeitz

What you need is a bolt on flywheel pto stub shaft for the other side of the engine.



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Joe Hillmann

I do it quite often but have never done it on anything over 5 hp.  The first few minutes a lot of stuff goes flying as the outer fabric casing gets rubbed off after that it wears pretty well.

Quote from: jim_wrench on June 15, 2016, 05:09:38 PM
Quote from: Joe Hillmann on June 15, 2016, 10:37:52 AM
If you want to change the direction  of the blade put a half twist in the belt and flip the saw blades inside out.  If you do that you would want to put a small piece of metal between the two halves of the belt where it will want to rub against its self.
Very much interested in seeing a belt like this in action and how is the life span of the belt in this? Yes I believe the drive set up is backwards for sure. This thing looks like a home made affair for sure. Just not by me. But I will give the builder some credit he did build it with guards. Something o might have overlooked till later on in the build.

jim_wrench

I'm thinking about flipping the motor and running a Jack shaft with pillow blocks. To rotate the mill in the proper direction.. I'm really not looking to reinvent the wheel here but sometimes it just has to be done. :-\

fishfighter

Quote from: jim_wrench on June 16, 2016, 01:26:12 AM
I'm thinking about flipping the motor and running a Jack shaft with pillow blocks. To rotate the mill in the proper direction.. I'm really not looking to reinvent the wheel here but sometimes it just has to be done. :-\

Well, a man has to do what a man has to do! ;D

jim_wrench

Making slow progress. But progress none the less.
Before.

After.

At least this should correct being able to use common off the shelf blades of 12' long give or take.

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