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Redoing homemade spliter

Started by limbwood, December 18, 2018, 09:49:11 PM

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limbwood

I made a wood splitter a few years ago, now I bought a skid loader and want to put splitter on skid loader, I made a boom and mounted splitter i-beam upside down under it, the problem is the hoses point straight down out of cylinder, can I loosen the 4 long bolt on cylinder and spin the tube a quarter turn so the hoses point out sideways or even up some? The cylinder is 5" x 24 , was a replacement for mtd or something, has 4 bolts on the corners that run the full length of cylinder, has steel tube with square cast end caps with the bolts holding it together. thanks for any advice.

mike_belben

Yes, you can clock the endcaps to suit your needs on a tierod cylinder. 
Praise The Lord

hedgerow

You can clock a tie rod cylinder. Depends how old the cylinder is but I would take the end caps all the way off when you move them to keep from damaging the O rings that seal the end caps to  the barrel. If the cylinder was used when you built the splitter I would take it all the way apart and take the parts to a hyd shop and get a seal kit for the cylinder and rebuild it while you have it apart.  

limbwood

its a new cylinder, the fittings are in the end caps i can turn the front one a quarter turn but the back one has yoke built on it so it is either up or down, and their isnt enough room between cylinder and i-beam for fitting. i will have to make a gaurd for it so i dont break fitting and hose off. thanks for help. 

mike_belben

I figured it would be ported castings, i dont think ive ever seen em welded into the barrel.  Would a 90* or 45* jic adapter swivel help?  Only a few bucks.
Praise The Lord

limbwood

i have 90's on it now, but it's the lowest thing and i'm worried about hitting a rock or stump and busting them off, if i turn the front one and make a gaurd for the back one it should work if i'm careful. thanks

hedgerow

Can you notch the beam on the back one and weld some bracing around were the notch was taken out? If you build a guard I sure would make it out of 1/4" plate. Seems like skid loader's and fire wood makes for bent equipment. I know when I bought my grapple the boss {WIFE} thought I was spending too much money on it. We had a bunch of pasture to clear so I am glad I went big and heavy on the grapple. 

albirk

Can you weld on new plates on and turn the cylinder 180 so the fitting are between the beam and the cylinder?

limbwood

Turns out their was a plug on the other side of the clyinder i didnt see, i switched the fitting and plug, then turned the front 90 now both come out the side, a+. thanks

mike_belben

Praise The Lord

hedgerow

Quote from: limbwood on December 23, 2018, 09:26:39 AM
Turns out their was a plug on the other side of the clyinder i didnt see, i switched the fitting and plug, then turned the front 90 now both come out the side, a+. thanks
Its nice when a plan comes together. Have a Merry Christmas. 

limbwood

I have another problem, when I made my splitter I got some of the steel from a friend that hauled for a steel company, a piece 2"x 6"x 16" of tempered steel for the end plate. I had a friend working at a welding company so I had him weld it to the end of the 6x8 i-beam with their huge wire welder no problem but it wasn't very big and some wierd pieces would slide buy the end so I have another friend give me a piece 1/2"x 10 x 12 tool steel to weld in front of thick piece but the welds keep breaking out, either out of thick piece or out of thin piece, the weld isn't breaking. Do I need to preheat or something? thanks

hedgerow

That is a problem when you start mixing grades of steel. Steel for tooling is a whole different animal. You may have to preheat the 2" up to get a good weld. I would try welding it pretty high amp on DC with 7018 rod. If that doesn't hold you will probably have to get another piece of steel for the 1/2" 10X12. Make sure you grind all the old welds out and both pieces are ground clean. 

mike_belben

There is likely too much carbon or chromium in the tool steel which melts into your welds and makes them brittle.  Preheat and postheat will help.  Dont waste a bunch of torch gas, just plop the piece ontop a woodstove or in a fire then pull it out with vicegrips and welderup.  Heating after is just as important.  Plop it right back into the coals for a slow cooldown if you can.

Praise The Lord

limbwood

I'm thinking i am going to get a new piece

albirk

limbwood how is the splitter going??

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