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De-barker

Started by Gentlewolf, December 01, 2013, 10:36:08 PM

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Gentlewolf

What is the benifit to the de-barker option on the new mills?

thecfarm

Gentlewolf,welcome to the forum. Are you buying a mill? Upgrading?
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Gentlewolf

Looking to buy a mill soon and was wondering if the debarker is a huge benifit or not, right now I used friends old woodmizer 40 but soon going to purchase a mill for myself

thecfarm

While you are waiting for replies,go to the top of this page, put in debarker, into the search box,click onto the next box,I see This Topic,you want This board,we are in the Sawmill board and press search. that will keep you busy.  :D
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Gentlewolf

Thanks I will check it out

kelLOGg

My "debarker" is one of various tools I use to peel bark off of a lot of pine I have. It extends the band lifetime very significantly. In my case, if the bark were still tight I would choose to saw right thru it suffer the consequences of sand/dirt. If I had a production mill I would certainly have a debarker.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Magicman

My Debarker is second only to my Setworks.  I would not saw without both of them.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

ladylake

 I found my debarker more trouble and in the way than what it was worth and took it off, I'd never be without my sharpener, and yes a couple times a year I wish I had my debarker on. About 90% of the time I can get any dirt off in the first slab and flitch board.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

POSTON WIDEHEAD

My Debarker was the best think I had installed on my mill before it arrived to the farm.
It has paid for itself. I don't have to scrape bark off or wash logs......put 'em on the mill, engage Debarker and go to sawing.  8)
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

drobertson

the advantage shows up when sawing heavily skidded logs. They are not 100% in my opinion but better than not having if the logs are dirty.  The one on my 40 is trouble free, not sure on other makes,    david
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Magicman

I always set the log up for the first face opening according to the log, not the dirt.  That way the debarker takes care of the dirt and I get the most quality lumber from the log.  Notice the turner claw marks made when I adjusted the log.


 
This SYP log is set up for sawing.  The Debarker will and did take care of the embedded dirt.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Chuck White

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Gentlewolf.

I would not want to be without my debarker.

I honestly believe that the debarker extends blade life about 5 times!

Without a debarker you can get into a situation where you can't saw a whole log without changing the blade, unless you scrape the dirt off!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

mesquite buckeye

I concur with what was said before. The debarker will pay for itself quickly with extended blade life and less hand cleaning time. I would also add a leaf blower to the list of stuff you need. Blows off loose dirt, use to clean up sawdust on the mill, lumber and engine. You can pick up a good lightweight one for $100-150.
Manage 80 acre tree farm in central Missouri and Mesquite timber and about a gozillion saguaros in Arizona.

ladylake

Quote from: Magicman on December 02, 2013, 09:06:38 AM
I always set the log up for the first face opening according to the log, not the dirt.  That way the debarker takes care of the dirt and I get the most quality lumber from the log.  Notice the turner claw marks made when I adjusted the log.


 
This SYP log is set up for sawing.  The Debarker will and did take care of the embedded dirt.

In that pic I would just give the another 1/4 turn and be in clean wood and still be cutting the same 4 faces.   Most times there are ways around dirt.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

mesquite buckeye

One more thought I didn't mention earlier. Lots of windblown grit gets embedded in the tree bark, so if you don't have to cut through that, the blade will last longer. The debarker can help you even if the logs look clean. Also in many species the outer bark can actually be harder than the wood you are cutting, so more blade wear that you can reduce with the debarker. I love mine. ;D
Manage 80 acre tree farm in central Missouri and Mesquite timber and about a gozillion saguaros in Arizona.

Gentlewolf

Thanks for the advice, looks like the opinions sway both ways on the subject, a lot to consider

Gentlewolf

I have been looking and considering the lt35 hydraulic from woodmizer is there another mill from another manufacturer that would compare
20,000 is a lot of money, but it is an investment and I want the best along with the most out of my money any ideas on that?

POSTON WIDEHEAD

IMO.....go with the Woodmizer and the Debarker. You can thank me later.  ;D
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

JustinW_NZ

I'm in a different country and generally sawing different things but still love the debarker.

Since i'm portable sawing for others and charge by the hour I think it is a must, as it extends the time between blade changes and no time spent mucking about with dirty logs.

Also - Welcome to the forum, great place here :)

Cheers
Justin
Gear I run;
Woodmizer LT40 Super, Treefarmer C4D, 10ton wheel loader.

Peter Drouin

Quote from: Magicman on December 02, 2013, 07:43:54 AM
My Debarker is second only to my Setworks.  I would not saw without both of them.

smiley_thumbsup
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

AnthonyW

I haven't even cut a single slab and I'm already contemplating upgrades. But more so, saving money. For my old LT25, what options do I have for a debarker?
'97 Wood-Mizer LT25 All Manual with 15HP Kohler

YellowHammer

A debarker is a fundamental accessory.  Before the debarker, when I had a dirty log, I used to pressure wash, scrub with a brush, chop with a hatchet, and scrape with a drawknife.  Now with a debarker, I just saw.
YH
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Brucer

Here's the standard consultant's answer. "It depends."

I ran another guys Wood-Mizer for a season, no debarker. Didn't miss it when I was sawing Western Red Cedar. Didn't know what I was missing when I was sawing Douglas-Fir. The D-Fir bark holds a lot of dirt/sand/clay/pebbles/rocks.

My manual mill didn't have  debarker and by the time 9 months had elapsed, I was seriously regretting it.

When the opportunity came to upgrade to a hydraulic mill, the debarker was the very first option I chose. I've since added an autoclutch, a few quick-adjust outriggers, a dragback, and modified my blade lube system to make it semi-automatic. Still no setworks.

If I had the volume of work to justify it, my next machine would be a Super Hydraulic with a full set of FA outriggers, a diesel power plant, remote operator's station, autoclutch, lubemizer, and maybe setworks. But number one would be a debarker.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

customsawyer

The best example I can give is one time when Danny and I was cutting one of our many projects. We had a log loaded up with a fair amount of Ga. red clay on the outside of it. I got the log in position and Danny steps up to start cleaning the log. I motioned for Danny to get out of the way engaged the debarker and went to sawing. Danny just stood there shaking his head and said, "That one cut would have killed a blade on his mill". The debarker will not only save you money on blades but in time from not having to clean the logs.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Yep.....everyone should experience some of this Southern Red Clay. Can't live without a debarked.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

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