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Bandmill Blades

Started by edsaws, November 11, 2003, 10:43:27 PM

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edsaws

I was wondering if anyone has done a survey on what brand blades people are using. i tried a search but didn't find anything.what brands are out there? i know of woodmizer,suffolk,cooks, lenox any others?

MrMoo

Ed,
Right now I am using M. K. Morse blades. So far I like them. I have also heard good things about Munkforsager blades.

ronwood

Ed,

I am using Woodmizer double hard blades. Have not used any others. Since I don't have a sharpener I use Woodmizer resharp program for now. I don't think they will sharpen any other pblades than theirs.

Welcome to the forum.

Ron
Sawing part time mostly urban logs -St. Louis/Warrenton, Mo.
LT40HG25 Woodmizer Sawmill
LX885 New Holland Skidsteer

woodmills1

used woodmizer .042" at first went through about 100 of those, then switched to .045" have bought 45 of those and have only broken 7 and trashed one on an eye bolt.  Sharpen and set myself.
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

Bibbyman

Wood-Mizer double hard blades - .045 with 10 degree hook angle.  Going to try a box of their new 4 degree blades for frozen logs.

We use the Re-Sharp program.  

If you've got blades of another manufacture,  talk to you're nearest Re-Sharp guy.  They may sharpen them if you are ready to convert over to WM blades on replacement and the other blades can be sharpened on their equipment.  

Wood-Mizer make blades for many other types and brands of bandmills also.


Sidney Jones down at the Mt. Vernon, MO.  Wood-Mizer service center does an excellent job on our blades.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

solidwoods

I sharpen blades for customers.  
Some customers have years of experience some have less.  The blade that you use is important.  The hard part is doing your cutting and data collection with any accuracy (that depends on the size/structure/product) of your operation.  
I suggest:
Use a common innexpensive blade type as the core of your blade inventory.

Thick blades are not the answer to cutting more lumber per hr.  They are useful for certain situations, but I think using thick blades for all of you sawmilling could be a waste of money.

Invest in sharpening equip if possible (you will find, that you will be milling with sharper blades on average since you do the sharpen/set).

And for "Gosh Sake"  store the blade properly.  
Some people leave the tension on the blade for days,,,keep the sharp blades stacked together in a wad in the back of a vehicle (this rubs the back of a blade against the sharp/tooth side of another blade and vibrates it to "not-so-sharp")
Or keep the dull blades on the ground, and dew wets the sawdust and corrodes the gullet causing a deep rot spot in the gullet.  Some of the blades I have seen have the rot in the gullet so bad that I don't grind it all out since it would remove allot of metal. I just tag it, they run it (if that's what the customer wants).
Ret. US Army
Kasco II B Band mill
Woodworking since 83
I mill & kiln dry lumber, build custom furniture, artworks, flooring, etc.
If you mill, you'll be interested in some of my work in one way or another.
We ship from our showroom.
N. Central TN.

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