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anchorseal

Started by xlogger, January 31, 2019, 04:32:06 AM

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xlogger

Getting real low on Anchorseal now. Was wondering how much it does help. Most of my logs when I get them have been cut a week or more. Some already have some cracks. Is it worth doing?
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Al_Smith

I use roofing tar and prior to milling cut a cookie off the end .Anchor seal does okay but doesn't stay forever like tar .

doc henderson

I have used it and paint.  I think they both help, but is recommended ASAP before cracks develop and I tend to wait.  I bought a box of the plastic ties with special hammer/driver that are to stop cracks after they begin.  I have not tried this yet.  I know @doc Wengert is a fan and has data to back it up.  I have a buddy who is going to get me wax emulsion concrete sealer that they use by the truckload.  I can get it for free.  I think cost is the big issue.  I will post after I try that.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Southside

I use Henrys or Blackjack white rubber roofing sealer. Stays on excellent and you can still see the grain for sawing. 
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Al_Smith

I cut a cookie and apply Anchor seal just prior .I've found leaving the tar on not only fouls the band but also streaks the lumber with tar .Tar coated cookies really roar in a wood stove once they get going ,smokes a bit too .So far I haven't been investigated by the wood  stove patrol or the chainsaw police .Safe for now .

YellowHammer

I am convinced Anchorseal does a benificial job of stopping cracks on some species, such as oak, cherry, walnut.  Not so much on pine, basswood, etc. I don't spray my logs anymore, I mill them, deadstack and then pack saw, to freshen the ends.  Then I spray the ends of the entire pack.  

The cost of the shipping Anchorseal has really gone up, maybe shipping is now 1/4 the cost of the product, so I am looking for alternatives.  I may try some the the Blackjack sealer.  

I wouldn't sticker any high value wood unless it has been endsealed efffectively.  

It does make a difference, I can tell when a pack has slipped through and not gotten sprayed, in a few weeks it's full of little end cracks.  

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

flatrock58

We need to get local groups together to buy a 55 gallon drum and share the cost.  It is about half the price.  They do that with woodworking clubs.  Maybe we can work something out at the next Georgia Sycamore quartersawing project!
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Glenn1

Last winter, I purchased a 55 gallon drum of Anchorseal.  By buying it during the winter, they add a liquid  that eliminates freezing.  I believe that I paid approximately $330 for the drum plus shipping with an LTL shipper.
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xlogger

I'm pretty much out today, going to order 5 gallons, wonder what it costs now.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

flatrock58

Who is using anchorseal 2 and is it as good as the original?
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xlogger

I was thinking after my last post that I've got several cans of paint in the basement that are really old now. I know they are not as good to use as anchorseal but need to get rid of them. Wonder if I coat the ends of logs heavy with them it would help.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

YellowHammer

I've used Anchorseal 2 and I prefer the original.

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

WDH

Me too.  I don't prefer the anchorseal 2 and just use the original formulation.
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GeneWengert-WoodDoc

It is my understanding that some people did not apply Anchorseal original thick enuf to do a good job, so they made a second formulation that went on thicker.  The original should not be brushed on to make a thin coat, like painting a wall, but should be smothered on.  If you do put on a thick coat of original, stay with it.

Incidentally, for 8/4 and thicker, especially expensive woods, apply two coats about 30 minutes apart.

Most house paints do not form a good moisture barrier so they are not the best option for thick lumber, for higher shrinking species, and for expensive woods.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

Tom the Sawyer

House paint also makes it difficult to see the heart, read the grain or see evidence of metal stain, spalting, etc.
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WV Sawmiller

   This thread reminded me to go buy another 5 gallon bucket. I did get hit with shipping charges this time so I assume UC-Coatings has changed their policy/pricing. I knew it was too good to last. Total $123.80 while the last was about $95 a few months ago. I checked on the Henry's White Rubber sealant at Lowes and this was still much cheaper and I know how well it works. They are very prompt on delivery too. I like the clear so I can see the heart checks and such to help determine my sawing path.
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doc henderson

looks like the classic is a little more expensive and petroleum ingredients and 2 has some plant based polymers.  about 96 dollars to 91 dollars respectively with color.  plus shipping.  I use a cheap HF airless sprayer to put on the classic.  when I roll it on, I seem to get quite a bit on the ground.  I had them add the antifreeze to mine as well.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

xlogger

When ahead and order 5 gallons yesterday $88 plus shipping. The air less sprayer you posted about, is it lots of trouble to clean up after each use? Most of the time I'm only painting one log at a time.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

YellowHammer

Shipping was the killer, last time I paid $34 bucks for a $93 bucket, December 27.  That seemed extremely high considering shipping used to be free, considering I purchase several 5 gallon buckets at the same time.

I use the pump up backpack sprayer sold by anchor seal and there is no cleanup.  I love it.  Every now and them I remove the tip and blow it out with an air compressor.  Thats the great thing about Anchorseal, spray it and stick the sprayer under the workbench until the next time.  

Some of the other sealers will actually dry or cure, and cleanup can be a major headache and time consumer.  
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

xlogger

Quote from: doc henderson on January 31, 2019, 06:51:39 AM
I have used it and paint.  I think they both help, but is recommended ASAP before cracks develop and I tend to wait.  I bought a box of the plastic ties with special hammer/driver that are to stop cracks after they begin.  I have not tried this yet.  I know @doc Wengert is a fan and has data to back it up.  I have a buddy who is going to get me wax emulsion concrete sealer that they use by the truckload.  I can get it for free.  I think cost is the big issue.  I will post after I try that.
Have you or anyone here used the plastic ties? How do you think they work?
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

doc henderson

I am a hobbyist so I often miss opportunities like stopping a crack with the plastic ties.  If I can, I get it done same day, but once I park a log in a stack I tend to go to work and forget about it.  I tried pounding it into a log to see how it goes in.  It is technically fine but will have too make a point to try it in real time and circumstances and get back to you.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

JohnW

It's been mentioned on here before that Woodcraft stores sell Anchorseal, I think it was in gallon jugs.  I see that Louisville has it.  What's the probability that this would save money for any of you.

Florida boy

WR meadows 1300,  it was less than 90$ delivered for 5 gallons just had to search Google.  Wax emulsion based concrete sealer seems to work good on my logs so far.

Tom the Sawyer

JohnW,  Woodcraft does sell it in quarts and gallons. On-line price is $33.50 per gallon, plus shipping.  Price drops significantly in larger quantities.  If you only need a gallon, its worth it.  If you go through a lot of it, look for at least 5 gallon pails.
07 TK B-20, Custom log arch, 20' trailer w/log loading arch, F350 flatbed dually dump.  Piggy-back forklift.  LS tractor w/FEL, Bobcat S250 w/grapple, Stihl 025C 16", Husky 372XP 24/30" bars, Grizzly 20" planer, Nyle L200M DH kiln.
If you call and my wife says, "He's sawin logs", I ain't snoring.

charles mann

@Tom the Sawyer does woodcraft sell it in 5 gal jugs? i just went to their site, and didn't see it. even did a search for it and only 1 gal and 1 qt, on their site. 
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