Got one of these

[Percy]

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/filing-tools/2in1file/

I been saw sharpening for a long time and can usually get it right....but this thing saves time and keeps the rakers where they should be....and gets it righter than me ;D ;D

[SlowJoeCrow]

I have this item on my wishlist.  I am just like you, been hand filing for a long time.  Everyone that has one raves about it.

[Grizzly]

Do you need to be experienced to use it? Or would it work as a teaching tool for my boys? My lack of mobility means I can't be out with them as much as I'd like and they need a little help with keeping a chain good.

[Percy]

Do you need to be experienced to use it? Or would it work as a teaching tool for my boys? My lack of mobility means I can't be out with them as much as I'd like and they need a little help with keeping a chain good.

No. I feel like a greenhorn using it but it does a better job than I could freehand. Your boys will
Love it as the saw will cut properly. Only thing they could screw up is the angle and you can direct them appropriately.

[Grizzly]

Thanks Percy. I'll check them out next time we go to the big town.

[starmac]

Mine are husky and look a little different, but they do work well. I was never the greatest chain filer, but they even surprised a friend of mine, who was a feller for years.

[samandothers]

Watched a couple videos on using. I may have to try one.  It is good it files both the cutting tooth and drag/rack tooth at the same time.

I may have to try one for my Stihl .325 chain.  If I understood correctly you would need one for each size chain.

[starmac]

The ones that are branded husky, you have to have different ones for the different chain.

[drobertson]

this is one of those " I just don't know?" things for me, I mean the idea sounds good, but from what I've experienced some teeth get hammered more, but, I reckon when you get to that tooth work it til its right,, sounds like a good idea,

[moodnacreek]

Bought one like that from Pferd. It hangs on the wall with the others. I couldn't  figure out how to use it.  The instructions where worthless to me. Now on the sawmill blade I love the Dexter file guide but on chainsaws I always go  back to filing by eye.

[4x4American]

Does it charpen da cutter and lower da raker in da same stroke?

[SlowJoeCrow]

Yes, it does

[4x4American]

Yes, it does

that's crazy insane...or insane crazy?

[PAmizerman]

I've had mine for about two years now. Works like a charm. I'd never go back to my electric sharpener. The file does an awesome job. If anyone does buy one you have to check and make sure it has the diameter file you need. Even though they are marked for ⅜ or .325 their are a couple diameter files they use. I found out after I bought mine and had to run back to town.

[Jjoness4]

Does it charpen da cutter and lower da raker in da same stroke?

It

It's better than the electric ones that spittzen ze sparken and blowen ze fusin :D

[Percy]

 :D :D :D :D :D :D

I was reading some of the reviews of this tool. Some said they over-filed the depth gauge/rakers. Today I tried hard to do that but couldnt. There is a piece that slides on the back of the chain., an inch or so ahead of the tooth/raker you are sharpening that avoids this.....at least in my case. I l thought I was good at sharpening but today, being the showoff I am, I was holding the 390 husky just with the throttle hand while the 32 inch bar and chain self fed itself through a 28 inch yellow cedar in no time. Filled my boot with large chipped sawdust quickly. IMO dont be buying shares in electric chainsaw sharpening gear ;D ;D

[Brucer]

I bought the Pferd version about 15 years ago for my bigger saws and it quickly became my "go to" sharpener. The problem with the old style Pferd is you have to remove the two files and reverse them to saw the "other side" of the chain.

I bought the Stihl double-sided sharpener for my MS170 and it works great. No changing files -- just flip it over to file the "other side".

[moodnacreek]

Good posts; I should try to use mine again.

[SlowJoeCrow]

I have always hand filed my chains since I was taught how to.  I have used chains that have been sharpened with those electric grinders and they don't do as good of a job.  I have been out cutting firewood with others and have stopped to sharpen my chain.  While stopped I filed the other guys chain, which he normally has sharpened on an electric grinder... he says wow, what a difference, its never sawn like this before!!

[Resonator]

Both have there place. I hit a railroad spike buried in a maple log once, and was able to save the chain with the electric sharpener. It would have taken a lot of time to straighten the cutters with a hand file. I use the hand file to touch up the chain before each day of cutting. I looked at the Stihl 2in1, looks real nice, but at $45 bucks, I'll think about it.

[drobertson]

there's definitely an art to getting chains right by hand. electric grinders are handy at times,,and gadgets like this are too. from what I've seen around these parts, there are folks that can doctor their own loops while others fight it.
Bottom line to me is I believe most folks that carry a saw all day, burning 5-6 tanks of fuel, they know the art of sharpening, as well as reducing the need for fixing rocked teeth. Some friends of mine do TSI work all year long, private lands, state and federal lands as well, Wes, I call him a human mountain goat, can put an edge on a loop that is unbelievable.  He showed me a few years back, its a process so to speak, but sure makes for an effortless task of felling timber, they just eat away, both sides the bar, bore cuts the same. All said, and I believe it, anything that makes sawing easier is worth a look, and I see no reason why this thingy ma jig won't work,, folks just need the proper file size and know why,

[hersnsh#590]

I've got a question.  When I file by hand, I spin the file a bit between sharpening teeth.  I think this keeps the wear even on the file.  I also clean the file a couple of times with a rag while sharpening a 16"chain.  I get quite a bit of residue when I clean the file.  I also "rinse" the file in a bottle of WD 40 to flush the file occasionally.  All of this may be a waste of time when hand filing, but I don't believe I could easily do any of this with the 2 in1 filers.  On the positive side, there's no question I'd get a more uniform ( and probably much better) filing with one of these filers.

I guess my question is how easy is it to change the round files, and especially the flat raker file?

Thanks
Dale

[Kbeitz]

You can make a file like new again by soaking in a glass jar of battery acid over night.
Rinse with water and baking soda and wipe with oil. It make the file very sharp again.

[LAZERDAN]

I don't mean to be stupid here, but do you pour the acid out of a battery ?

                                                                                    Lazerdan

[Kbeitz]

I don't mean to be stupid here, but do you pour the acid out of a battery ?

                                                                                    Lazerdan

I keep all the acid out of my dead batteries...
Great for taking rust off other things.
I pickup nice files often out from the junkyard.
They go right in my acid bath. Files look and cut
like new when finished. The acid etches a little
metal off the files and cleans the dirt out that's
what makes them sharp again

[Grizzly]

I've never heard of this! But then I don't hang around machinist much. I'll have to remember next time I have an old battery to go away and save some acid. I'll need a tall jar for some of the big files though.

[Kbeitz]

I'll take some pictures when I do my next batch. Old rusted dirty files
look like new ones when done.

[Kbeitz]

Someone beat me to it... I don't dilute the acid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yLSkW5BwbM

[LAZERDAN]

Thank you

Lazerdan

[Novascotiamill]

Thats a handy looking rig,ive been sending my chains out to get sharpened at 10.00 a pop,my eyes are not soo good anymore. Think ill track one of these down and give it a try,maybe I can get my son to learn the skill and sharpen them for me .

[Percy]

I've got a question.  When I file by hand, I spin the file a bit between sharpening teeth.  I think this keeps the wear even on the file.  I also clean the file a couple of times with a rag while sharpening a 16"chain.  I get quite a bit of residue when I clean the file.  I also "rinse" the file in a bottle of WD 40 to flush the file occasionally.  All of this may be a waste of time when hand filing, but I don't believe I could easily do any of this with the 2 in1 filers.  On the positive side, there's no question I'd get a more uniform ( and probably much better) filing with one of these filers.

I guess my question is how easy is it to change the round files, and especially the flat raker file?

Thanks
Dale

You bring up a good point. The files this unit comes with are very good but after reading your post, I think Ill rotate the round ones after a bit to get max life out of them. I dont presume that this thing will do a better job than a journeyman chainsaw operator. But it will get close and while it seems like Im loafing along, the whole job is done much quicker than the old way....

[btulloh]

For cleaning and sharpening files I use white vinegar and let the files soak for 24 hours or so.  Works well.  Don't know how it compares to battery acid, but the white vinegar is easier to handle and always available.  I get a little jumpy handling sulphuric acid, especially trying to pour it out of a battery.  Maybe KB could run a comparison test for us.

[pineywoods]

Battery acid (sulfuric acid) is diluted with water. Still tricky nasty stuff to handle. Vinegar is much safer and works just as well, just a lot slower. I use vinegar to de-rust small parts when re-building stuff..

[Grizzly]

Ok. So first I learn about acid (not the 60's kind) and now I learn that vinegar and patience will do the same thing? That's much better with the children working around the shop all the time.

[Kbeitz]

I just unpop the first battery cap and pick it up and dump the acid in a quart jar.
Put on glasses.

[Resonator]

I have burned many holes in clothing pulling dead batteries from machinery. A much safer method is to take molasses and dilute it 10:1 with water. Coca-cola could be used as well.

[drobertson]

I figure at a buck and a quarter, and multiple loops fuzzed down, why even mess with the battery acid thing, now it goes to say waste not want not, but mercy, there's a limit to just how far to go in this.  with the proper (plastic) covers, a round file will, should last for many, many sharpenings, I've found that abuse to files, abuse like improper handling and storing do more, and have to say repairable damage than the actual use of it. I've heard of the acid etching treatment.  With the cross section of the files tooth and the strength of it, the point is pointless, JMO,

[Kbeitz]

In my experience my files get packed with oil and dirt more than getting dull.
The acid eats the dirt away.  I️ use a quart jar with a plastic lid with a
1/2" hole in the middle. I️ just drop the file in the hole and the next day take it out.  I️ have another jar made with the rince.  Wood files fill up fast.

[drobertson]

K, be sure to know I was not knocking you or the practice ,, I just got use to brass bushes for files, when they are done, they are gone that's all.

[Kbeitz]

K, be sure to know I was not knocking you or the practice ,, I just got use to brass bushes for files, when they are done, they are gone that's all.

No problem. 
Did you know you can buy a file brush. It's not brass but steel. 
They work good.

[drobertson]

Yes, and thanks, used file card for years, I just prefer brass brushes, not just for files, for sharp cutting edged tools of all sorts, they work much like a butcher's steel, but are more for clearing debris than straightening out cutting edges, without taking the edge off.

[knoxville]

Does the Stihl 2-1 use special proprietary files, or can you use standard chain files?

[btulloh]

File carders (the brush you're referring to) work well to clean the files when used on a regular basis but they don't sharpen the files.  Chainsaw files I do consider somewhat disposable, but the collection of good machinist files is too expensive to replace on a regular basis for me.  When a nice file stops cutting well, into the vinegar it goes.  Faster than trying to find a good replacement too.  Files are like chains as far in my opinion.  Sharper is better.

Same with drill bits.  Bit twist drill bits are expensive and besides that, you need it when you need it.  If it's lost it's edge I use my Drill Doctor.  (I'm sure KB can sharpen bits on a bench grinder, but I can't.)  Sharpening larger bits pays for the drill doctor real fast, plus I've always got a sharp bit for job.  (Sorry - off the subject, but then so is the acid thing.)

====
I'd like to try one of those Stihl jigs that started this thread, but then I'd need two or three different ones.  It's getting harder for my aging eyes to see what I'm doing with the file so I can keep the angle correct.

[Percy]

Does the Stihl 2-1 use special proprietary files, or can you use standard chain files?

Only guessing here but I think the round ones are standard. The raker file is  a fairly fat square one.

[hopm]

Been sharpening by hand as long as I can remember. Butchered chains for years. Got the 2n1.....it works...does a great job....just nearly idiot proof

[Kbeitz]

File carders (the brush you're referring to) work well to clean the files when used on a regular basis but they don't sharpen the files.  Chainsaw files I do consider somewhat disposable, but the collection of good machinist files is too expensive to replace on a regular basis for me.  When a nice file stops cutting well, into the vinegar it goes.  Faster than trying to find a good replacement too.  Files are like chains as far in my opinion.  Sharper is better.

Same with drill bits.  Bit twist drill bits are expensive and besides that, you need it when you need it.  If it's lost it's edge I use my Drill Doctor.  (I'm sure KB can sharpen bits on a bench grinder, but I can't.)  Sharpening larger bits pays for the drill doctor real fast, plus I've always got a sharp bit for job.  (Sorry - off the subject, but then so is the acid thing.)

====
I'd like to try one of those Stihl jigs that started this thread, but then I'd need two or three different ones.  It's getting harder for my aging eyes to see what I'm doing with the file so I can keep the angle correct.

I got the drill doctor the Darex and another one I can't remember the name of.
But I don't like wasting time setting them up unless I'm doing a 100 bits.
I have been hand grinding them since I was a kid. What I really don't like is
the new split point bits. They are great until they need sharpened then it's a
real pain. You have to thin the web after each sharpening . I even hand sharpen
my milling bits. It's not hard after you do a few 100. Try hand sharpening a drill
bit with a cut off wheel when your out on a job and there is no grinder around.

[moodnacreek]

Although I file by eye and have for 52 years, a jig 0r machine that really works will beat the best man's eye. If your chainsaw can cut straight buried in wood, fast, undercut, bore cut  with little effort, it doesn't  matter how it was done. also if you can file by eye all you need is that file pocket on your work pants and 1 sharp file.

[TreeStandHunter]

I use this daily, Once you get the hang of it you'll be able to get your chains factory sharp no problem it is a great tool to have saves alot of time