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Privacy fence

Started by bigred1951, April 29, 2019, 08:44:12 PM

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bigred1951

My wife and I just bought a house a couple months ago. Our single wide was getting to cramped. We love it so far except it's more open and we don't like seeing everybody or everybody seeing us. I would like to build a privacy fence around the property at least 8 feet tall. Not sure how many feet long it will have to be. Our property is about 3 quarters of an acre. I know if I go buy from the box store it'll be pretty pricey so I would like to find a sawmill nearby to cut most of it for me. I'm curious how much does a privacy fence usually cost. What type of wood is best to use and what should I treat it with to help prevent it rotting away in a few years. I will break down and buy pressure treated post.

WV Sawmiller

   We used to have a fence business when I was growing up. Mostly we did chain link. You could get color weave to fit in the fence (Like strips of venetian blinds. We also used western cedar for wood fence. On some we used metal posts. White oak or locust are among the best. On all the top has to be straight so you will have to stairstep it up or down to compensate for any terrain changes.

   They are very much subject to wind damage especially one as long and as tall as you are describing. I bet your insurance will not cover repair or replacement so you might check that in advance.

   I'd recommend some sort of evergreen hedge even though that means more maintenance too. Even hemlocks planted densely and topped will make a decent privacy barrier. Good luck.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Jeff

Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

bigred1951

Thanks Jeff I remember reading that before. I would love to build one that nice. But I doubt cedar be out of the pic for me. I don't think there is that much around here and pricey. I can easily get all the pine and popular fairly cheap but I'm afraid it wouldn't last long.

Don P

Also call your local zoning official or building department. Many places have a 6' max height on fences and some have other rules. Nothing worse than building it and then being told to take it down. There should be someone nearby sawing eastern redcedar over there, I think I recall seeing a bunch in that neck of the woods ???.

Magicman

Tulip Poplar should hold up very well.  It may tend to cup or twist but that could be minimized by the board orientation during installation.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

WV Sawmiller

   If you do use tulip poplar make sure it is always a couple of inches above the ground and keep the leaves and debris away at all times of it will rot very quickly. I used tulip poplar on my hay barn and the spots where it touched the ground rotted out within a year or so. The spots where it is even 4" above ground are still solid 15+ years later.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Raider Bill

For comparison sake. I built a new fence around my back yard after Irma took the old one out.
6 ft board on board 1x6x6' PT pickets, 2x4 rails with 4x4x10' posts. it was $7.60 a ft for materials.
The First 70 years of childhood is always the hardest.

PC-Urban-Sawyer

No matter what you plan to do, check your insurance company/policy to determine any unexpected requirements. My insurance policy here in Florida has a requirement that the fence be attached to the house.  Our fence was not attached to the house and all was blown down by Hurricane Michael. The only exception to the damage was the posts directly adjacent to the house which remained standing. The insurance company is not covering the damage and their adjuster (inspector) told me all it would have taken would have been a small metal strap or bracket... Instead it will cost me thousands of dollars to replace it ourselves...

Raider Bill

Does it only have to be attached in 1 place for the whole fence?
I never filed a claim because the fence was 25 years old. Figured it wasn't worth the hassle.
The First 70 years of childhood is always the hardest.

PC-Urban-Sawyer

Bill,

Our policy doesn't specify but the adjuster indicated that any end of fence that was adjacent to the house had to be "attached"...

Herb

RPF2509

I would agree on checking local codes before building.  Many have gotten around the 6' height limit by raising up a berm 2'-3' high and building on that to get the height above the regulation 6'.  A hedge is also a solution though it will take a bit to grow.  I built a cedar privacy fence in my backyard a bit over regulation height.  I have about a 1' gap on the bottom to keep the boards out of the snow and the gap raises it just enough to keep people on the road above from seeing over it.  Chainsaw milled the 6x6 posts and 2x6 runners and spaced the posts about 8' apart.  So far its held up to the snowplow pushing a berm against it.  6' Cedar boards were $1.29 each and everything else was time and chainsaw expenses.

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