Anyone else experience this? This is the shield that is attached to both ends of the movable guide arm. It cups under to shield the blade on the idle side. The factory weld broke and has been welded back twice. I'm ready to cut the shield off. (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30819/20171206_1333335B15D.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1512689658)
Yep, been there. You've got to make sure you get a good weld fillet on the back side of the bracket to keep it from vibrating.
My guy did that last time. But I could tell the shake was going to take it out again. Gonna cut that sucker off tommorow and not worry with it anymore. Just glad to know I wasnt the only one to see it.
Can't say I've seen it,, seen more than my share of vibration issues, but not that one. My best guess is the material, higher carbon, welded and then it cracks. Lots of components for all kinds of machinery are made of recycled materials. If these are not QC'd, during the billeting process, well, this is what you might get, high carbon steel has strength, but if not handled properly it can become very brittle. Just a guess, my suggestion would be to pull it off, heat it to a low cherry, then weld it back then, either pack it in sand or draw it back in the oven at 400° might as well throw a tater in while your are working on it, ;D
Cut mine off, Good now. :D :D :D
Then some of the tin shields cracked too they're gone. :D ;)
My mill had the blade guide shield "off" (due to a mod) when I bought the mill, and I had it welded back on, no issues since! ;)
Quote from: Peter Drouin on December 07, 2017, 08:28:34 PM
Cut mine off, Good now. :D :D :D
Then some of the tin shields cracked too they're gone. :D ;)
What have you got left? 2 tires and a blade? :D :D :D
Quote from: Peter Drouin on December 07, 2017, 08:28:34 PM
Cut mine off, Good now. :D :D :D
Then some of the tin shields cracked too they're gone. :D ;)
Its history tommorrow morning. I grew up walking around a 0frick and miner edger without gaurds. Made it this long, I figure one less shield wont hurt. I still use that old miner.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22511/SAM_0641.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1464824285)
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almost Mr goat, :D :D
I figured most was cosmetic anyway.
You need a counter weight to take up the harmonics of the vibrations.
Most of my mills tin is stored in my pole barn
You might consider solving the vibration issue.
Jim Rogers
Quote from: Kbeitz on December 08, 2017, 08:18:02 AM
You need a counter weight to take up the harmonics of the vibrations.
Where would you hang that? :D :D :D :D :D
Problem solved.........
I Haven't had to remove anything but the flapper on the muffler, so far. DanG thing would rattle at idle and drive me crazy.
Quote from: Peter Drouin on December 08, 2017, 07:27:16 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on December 08, 2017, 08:18:02 AM
You need a counter weight to take up the harmonics of the vibrations.
Where would you hang that? :D :D :D :D :D
I would start with a strong magnet.
Just stick it on and watch your vibrations.
Move it around to find the magic spot.
I do this with my boring bar on my metal lathe to stop chatter.
Interesting ...
http://www.physicsclassroom.com/class/sound/Lesson-4/Fundamental-Frequency-and-Harmonics
Quote from: Jim_Rogers on December 08, 2017, 03:22:51 PM
You might consider solving the vibration issue.
Jim Rogers
I too am wondering why it is vibrating and where it is coming from? Are you running Wood-Mizer B57 belts?
Seems like most engines vibrate plenty at idle, not so bad when cutting. Steve
Have had to weld mine also a few times. Don't worry about it, keep sawing. If you're not sawing you sure aren't breakin' anything. ;D ;D
My blade covers make a lot of noise when idling.
Its a lt50 electric. I dont really experience any vibration while sawing. The shield in question is quite heavy to only be attached in two very small points. No mill will be perfectly vibration free. But as I said earlier, the problem is solved.
I get very little vibration when sawing or when idling.
Most of the vibrating concussion comes when I turn a big cant.
A mill wood probably have more vibration damage if it sets on a concrete slab I would thing.
How can you tell, your mill doesn't run much Mr goat? :D :D :D
Quote from: Peter Drouin on December 09, 2017, 07:07:37 PM
How can you tell, your mill doesn't run much Mr goat? :D :D :D
......and no broken welds. :D :D :D :D
And a blade will last all week. :D :D
Quote from: Peter Drouin on December 09, 2017, 07:23:20 PM
And a blade will last all week. :D :D
A set of B57's last 2 years. :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
2 years, Try putting a blade on sometimes, Can't just work on the mill all the time. :D :D ;)
I've found where vibration is breaking a weld I can go in, clean it up, and braze it back together. Problem solved.
Brazing takes a little time and finesse so welders avoid doing it. Besides they know you will be back with more $$$'s if they weld it. :D :D
Magicman, could you tell more on the B 57 belt? The guy I bought my LT40 from said he had better luck with the next size down belt. He said it is hard to get on so it does not sit loose on the wheel like the WM recommended belt size. Is there a reason that belt is supposed to be a loose fit? Mountain.
Quote from: Magicman on December 09, 2017, 03:27:29 PM
Quote from: Jim_Rogers on December 08, 2017, 03:22:51 PM
You might consider solving the vibration issue.
Jim Rogers
I too am wondering why it is vibrating and where it is coming from? Are you running Wood-Mizer B57 belts?
Wood-Mizer did the Research & Development and recommends the loose B57. I have followed their recommendation for 15 years and have no problem with the B57's. For whatever reason some folks use the B56, but that is their decision/choice.
Wood-Mizer's B57 belts are manufactured to their specification and are flat on top with no ply overlap which would cause unevenness and could bump as the belt passes around it.
I have used the b57 over 30 years and they work well. The b57s from the auto parts store are not the same as Wood Mizers.