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cuved log sawing

Started by olyman, May 25, 2007, 08:27:25 AM

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olyman

while i havent started sawing yet--some trees---have a bend in the trunk at the most innopportune spot to make boards out of--any one else thought of this---if there was some way---like on the auto matic wm's--to have the saw start where you want it---then go slowly up matching the curve of the log--then back down again still matching the curve--having the hump in the log facing up--because my thought is--once the boards are sawed--laying them down--and stickering them--if in 1 in boards--theyd lay flat anyway because of the weight-----just thinking---as in my area--there aint excessive amounts of trees---

Nate Surveyor

Some of the large mills can do something like this. IF your log is curved, then you can straighten them during drying. I would like to see a band mill with a trigger mechanism to raise and lower, that rides on the log. During the first cut, you would follow the curve manually. Then, the machine would automatically follow the first cut, based on input from the trigger, which rides on the surface. Simply dial in the thickness desired.

After flipping the log 180°, then the trigger would / could ride on the bottom of the bent log.

Intresting concept. I have not ever seen in implemented on the smaller mills.

Nate
I know less than I used to.

thecfarm

Probaly you never would see it on a smalll mill due to cost of it and than try to keep the boards flat would cost something too.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

olyman

thecfarm--thinking if you dont cut over 1 in boards out of it--drying them flat should work--just to figure out how to make a mill do it--?????????????

TexasTimbers

olyman. Two words. Just forget about it. Okay 4 words but forget it it ain't gonna work. Don't go against the grain so to speak ;D
The oil is all in Texas, but the dipsticks are in D.C.

tomboysawyer

I've inadvertently cut on a curve like that before.

Nothing takes the set out of a band blade like jumping and diving.

But, then, I don't know how the Lathe-Mizer doesn't hurt set on the blade. Do folks using the Lathe-Mizer use one particular blade for that? Because the feed side of the turn would have to push up on the blade all the time.

Dodgy Loner

Quote from: kevjay on May 25, 2007, 03:07:31 PM
olyman. Two words. Just forget about it. Okay 4 words but forget it it ain't gonna work. Don't go against the grain so to speak ;D

Obviously you're not from New England, in which case it would be 1 word:  Fuggedaboudit!  ;D
"There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey." -John Ruskin

Any idiot can write a woodworking blog. Here's mine.

Bibbyman

I think it would be a very interesting idea to be able to program the saw path down the length of the cut.  Just think how useful it'd be in sawing out beams for wooden ships – as in lofting.  Also may other beam projects as in knee braces on timber frame houses.

If true NC control would be too expensive,  maybe something that would follow a pattern would be easier to develop. 

Because of the blade widths and such, there would probably be a limit on how much change in height you could expect.  Maybe only an inch or two per foot.

I once visited with an Amish sawyer who skidded his logs from the yard to the mill on a wooden sled pulled by horses.  The sled looked to be three 2x10s strapped together.  What struck me was that it curved up in the front like a snow sled.  I asked him how he bent the heavy 2x10s and he grinned and explained.  He had a couple of his sons hold up the end of the log and eased the blade into it and then lowered it to produce the curve then sawed out the flat section.  They did a pretty uniform job of it.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

olyman

if the amish can do it bib--us "modern" type people--with newfangled machines--ought to be able to do it---!!!!!!!!!!  something to raise the table auto--like the control on a combine bean head????? but like you said bib--only so much climb at a time---apparently--no ones ever tried it--and how about yankee in genuity???? never say never---

tomboysawyer

Bibbyman's explanation sounds a lot like how the Lathemizer works - in that you are using the moving bandsaw blade like a cutting bit. It will hog out timber. You could make curved cants that way.

It would be a completely different story trying to take a blade with any width and have it peel boards off a curve. You'd have to have a really narrow blade - like a scroll saw. Basically you're trying to scroll saw boards.

TexasTimbers

Real narrow blades, now that would work. But when you're talking regular width blades you cannot get much curve without twisting the blade. A little maybe, not much. I know because I tried it on a curved box elder wholla go. I got carried away because of a little early success and threw the blade off the wheels.
The oil is all in Texas, but the dipsticks are in D.C.

beenthere

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Nudgewood

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=23412.0

I saw curved logs every day. That's one thing a chainsaw can do well.

%<
Sumpin always depends on Sumpin.

gizmodust

I usually lay the curve on the best side and start plating it off at about 2 inch.  I have a custom operation going and have a hard time keeping them on hand.  People use them for benches and the like.  Don't know how many you have, but it's a suggestion. :-\
Always liked wood with alot of character

Cedarman

All that is needed is a linear positioning device along the bed of the mil that is read by a sensor.  We have one on our saw heads so that we know exactly how far apart they are.  Then a sensor on the mill height.  Now the computor will know exactly where the blade is at all times.    Put the log on the mill with the horns up.  Measure height of horns, measure height of valley, plug into computer and with the right software program telling the mill where it needs to be, saw away.

This is different than having the log scanned by lasers and that info sent to the computer.

Wonder if my idea would work.

How many of you rode the pulley wheel on the old manual LT 30 to raise and lower mill head as you traveled along the cant to account for bow in the cant?
I am in the pink when sawing cedar.

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