Looking for input on log loading ideas

RussMaGuss · August 27, 2018, 09:14:19 PM

Hi all,

Currently I've got a heavy duty utility trailer that is a real pain in the ass for log loading. The list of things wrong with it for log loading/unloading is very long lol I'm looking to get a deck over trailer to parbuckle the logs on. I've got some 4"x4" tube steel that I was thinking of re-purposing into ramps.

Looking for perspective from other people, so I'll pose this question:

If you could start from scratch (with a modest budget of course!!), what type of trailer and log loading unloading technique would you use?

I've looked into the log arches and it seems like it would take longer to do it that way than to roll it up the side. With my current layout, I have a tree that I can chain the log to and pull the trailer off like that, but would like to rearrange my mill to be next to my garage, so I'm thinking long-run, the deckover parbuckle strategy would be the way to go so I can roll the logs off the side. Any logs that are too big for my mill, I'll either avoid, or use the alaskan mill on-site and load the slabs one by one.

Thanks for your insights!

mike_belben · August 27, 2018, 10:39:02 PM

This guy has it figured out.

Firewood Log Trailer - YouTube

I haul sawlogs in a set of baby bunks on my gooseneck, because the mill always has a wheel loader or knuckle boom to take them off. But when i haul firewood logs to my house, i just lay them on the deck with no bunks, (using bobcat) then pound tapered hickory stakes into the rubrail and chain down. I pull the stakes at home and use a big forklift to tip the whole trailer and launch it all off the side for processing.

Its the irregular pieces that are terrible to unload with forklift. Log length isnt bad but chunks are terrible.

thecfarm · August 28, 2018, 05:20:27 AM

I know of one guy that use to park the trailer next to the mill and just roll the logs from the trailer to the mill.

Crusarius · August 28, 2018, 07:30:01 AM

Wow, that guy really does have it figured out. that would be so much better than manually loading logs on my 5x8 with sides.

Now you got me wanting to build a trailer

Crusarius · August 28, 2018, 07:45:25 AM

Russ if you want to get a deckover and set it up to parbuckle make sure you have a stationary winch with plenty of cable and power. then you can run snatchblocks to redirect the cable wherever you want to. I would also make pockets all around, both sides, and the back of the trailer so you can load and unload from any direction. The pockets would be so you can place the parbuckle ramps into them and not have them move on you. And don't forget winch hook loops all over the place. that way you can run the cable over the log and back to the trailer to make rolling it much easier.

One other thing I have thought of for my ramps I will be building for my mill are log stops every 24" or so. have them gravity loaded to stay in the lock position but as the log rolls over them they get pushed down, as soon as the log clears them they pop up and create a physical stop. This way if you need to reset your rigging or if a cable lets go the log will not takeoff and squish something important. Very similar to the spikey parking lot things that everyone hates driving over.

This concludes the random thoughts flowing out of my head

mike_belben · August 28, 2018, 09:34:13 AM

Thats a good idea Crusarius. Make your steel fingers with a 1" pivot hole. Slide them onto a 1" pipe or shaft and weld in place. Mount the shaft on some offset hangers to the mill, with a handle at the end so that you can rotate the whole assembly. [Picture tractor trailer door latch rod, oriented horizontal] use hay rake teeth that engage the mill frame as the spring mechanism to let the teeth roll down then pop back up.

So when you want this rig out of your way it just hangs over the side of the mill. When you need it, rotate the bar and the fingers come up to lay ontop. Theyll let a log roll over one way but stop it from rolling the other.

As for parbuckling, i recommend standard stake and rub rail all the way around, then just build your conventional car style ramps with hooks that engage a rub rail. Leave your stake pockets slightly below grade of your rub rail for infinite slideability. This way you only have to lift one end once you hook it at the back. Just slide on up to position. Mine are pretty heavy. Shorter is better in parbuckle ramps, the cable wont mind raising logs up a 1:1 grade but a long ramp weighs a ton and will bend, then not fit in the ramp pocket.

Crusarius · August 28, 2018, 09:50:33 AM

I like the idea mike my thought was 2"x8"x1/4" plate with hole drilled off center then bolted to side of 2x6 steel ramp. with the offset hole it will make it auto lock just with the weight of the tail pulling it down.

mike_belben · August 28, 2018, 10:01:36 AM

Well, thats probably even cheaper now that you mention it. No spring to break.

Crusarius · August 28, 2018, 10:05:36 AM

and no resistance when trying to roll the log up.

I really hope we didn't hijack this thread

mike_belben · August 28, 2018, 10:20:50 AM

Hijacks are the cost one must bare in order to get the info they seek for free.

A tax attorney wont hijack the conversation, but he charges by the hour to stay on topic.

luvmexfood · August 28, 2018, 12:42:47 PM

How I load my flat bed trailer. Winch mounted on the tongue. Wireless remote is thirty bucks and a must. Saves many a step.

Put a log cross ways behind the trailer and larger than the height of the trailer. You can skip this. Pull my logs up to the trailer using a pair of tongs chained to a tractor boom pole. As I get close to the trailer cut sharply to one side or the other and start lifting the boom pole. Log will usually sling up on the trailer. Then pull the rest of the way up on trailer with winch. Longer logs on the bottom and can go two high. Takes about 13 minutes per log to load.

John Mc · August 28, 2018, 01:26:25 PM

Quote from: luvmexfood on August 28, 2018, 12:42:47 PM
How I load my flat bed trailer. Winch mounted on the tongue. Wireless remote is thirty bucks and a must. Saves many a step.

Put a log cross ways behind the trailer and larger than the height of the trailer. You can skip this. Pull my logs up to the trailer using a pair of tongs chained to a tractor boom pole. As I get close to the trailer cut sharply to one side or the other and start lifting the boom pole. Log will usually sling up on the trailer. Then pull the rest of the way up on trailer with winch. Longer logs on the bottom and can go two high. Takes about 13 minutes per log to load.

Sounds interesting. Got a video or picture sequence?

g_man · August 29, 2018, 05:42:43 PM

Quote from: mike_belben on August 27, 2018, 10:39:02 PM
This guy has it figured out.

Firewood Log Trailer - YouTube

Thanks for posting that Mike. Lots of good ideas and food for thought in there.
gg

luvmexfood · August 30, 2018, 09:51:09 AM

Quote from: John Mc on August 28, 2018, 01:26:25 PM
Quote from: luvmexfood on August 28, 2018, 12:42:47 PM
How I load my flat bed trailer. Winch mounted on the tongue. Wireless remote is thirty bucks and a must. Saves many a step.

Put a log cross ways behind the trailer and larger than the height of the trailer. You can skip this. Pull my logs up to the trailer using a pair of tongs chained to a tractor boom pole. As I get close to the trailer cut sharply to one side or the other and start lifting the boom pole. Log will usually sling up on the trailer. Then pull the rest of the way up on trailer with winch. Longer logs on the bottom and can go two high. Takes about 13 minutes per log to load.
Sounds interesting. Got a video or picture sequence?
Not anymore. Don't know when I will get back into the woods to get some. Doing some work out on the road right now. Saving my logs for when I don't have work.

RussMaGuss · August 30, 2018, 03:39:11 PM

Thanks for all the insights guys, these are all awesome ideas!! And don't worry about hijacking anything, it's good to let the ideas flow!

rjwoelk · August 30, 2018, 03:52:43 PM

So the side he off load on. I would set it up like the hyd mills heavy enough to roll the log on then the left to bring them to the deck of the trailer.. he has it all set to go just add some cradles to the right side

Crusarius · August 30, 2018, 03:58:16 PM

That setup could act as a log deck for the sawmill to. Just roll it straight from the trailer onto the mill and cut away.

mike_belben · August 30, 2018, 08:22:47 PM

Shoot why not make the drop side out of upturned 3" C-channel with 2 strands of conveyor chain for a live log deck onto your mill bed? Rob the gearbox off a 2speed tractor trailer landing gear for a handpower, or use a starter motor with the nosecone cut off and a sprocket welded on for DC. Just toss the solenoid fork.

It would be handy at feeding slabwood or lumber back onto the trailer too.

Crusarius · August 31, 2018, 09:17:24 AM

Mike, I like the way you think. that would be a pretty slick setup.

I always find myself doing this, I start at level 1 and before I know it the project has evolved 10 times and become to expensive

But hey dreaming is fun

Good news is that won't be all that expensive to build. I am estimating with all new parts probably be about $3500 not including labor.

mike_belben · August 31, 2018, 09:52:52 AM

It dont cost me nothing to tell someone else how to build the junk ill never get around to ;D

Crusarius · August 31, 2018, 09:57:34 AM

Good call

I will build one eventually.needs to be small enough to tow with my jeep, the Kubota L2800. yet big enough to collect enough logs so I don't have to make 2 trips.

Be nice to have a standalone brake system on it for pulling through the woods behind the jeep or kubota. I really don't like being pushed down hills.

John Mc · August 31, 2018, 03:07:18 PM

Quote from: Crusarius on August 31, 2018, 09:57:34 AMBe nice to have a standalone brake system on it for pulling through the woods behind the jeep or kubota. I really don't like being pushed down hills.

I've been debating adding an electric brake controller to my tractor and just using the manual "booster lever" on the controller to activate trailer brakes.

btulloh · August 31, 2018, 04:57:36 PM

You could add surge brakes.

John Mc · August 31, 2018, 05:51:27 PM

Quote from: btulloh on August 31, 2018, 04:57:36 PM
You could add surge brakes.

I much prefer electric for over-the-road towing. Electric is not necessarily an ideal in-the-woods solution, but I can deal with it.

flyboy16101 · August 31, 2018, 10:56:36 PM

I use a deck over trailer and a set of removable ramps from a dump trailer to parbuckle logs. My winch is portable with quick disconnects on the power cables so I can add a longer extension for when I put the winch on the sides. I use a receiver hitch to mount the winch on the front of the trailer normally. At the moment I chain the winch to the rub rail to parbuckle but I'm hopeing to make a moveable bracket soon. I second that the remote control is a must the best money I spent. For bunks I put oak stakes in after I'm done loading.