Old Franklin Skidder

fudrockcity · October 19, 2013, 09:12:59 PM

Hello,
I recently purchased a 1968 to 1970-ish Franklin 120 with a model 20 winch. It has a 3 speed with High/Low and a Perkins diesel. Any information you guys have on this particular machine I would greatly appreciate. Where to get parts and specs, etc. I am having trouble posting pictures.
Thank you

mjeselskis · October 20, 2013, 07:54:15 AM

Don't know where you are, but any chance this is the one that was on craigslist in Brentwood, NH? If so, it looked like a steal. I thought about driving down to see it, but it sold while I was thinking...

thecfarm · October 20, 2013, 09:17:30 AM

fudrockcity,welcome to the forum.Going to be for your own use or have a logging business?
I suppose you have seen this thread about posting pictures?
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,61788.0.html
Follow EVERY step. Let us know what is giving you problems and we will help. Taking pictures with a phone?

fudrockcity · October 20, 2013, 06:54:07 PM

Yes, mj I bought the machine in Brentwood. I got it home today and I was hoping to learn more about these skidders. I thought before I started digging in I'd like to develop a better understanding as to how these ol' Franklins tick , what to look for, a good parts resource, and anything else you guys have to offer. Some parts/repair literature would be invaluable. This is my first forum post but I've been reading these pages for years...great site!

ga jones · October 20, 2013, 07:07:50 PM

There hard to get Franklin specific parts for. But on such an old machine not much is Franklin. The winch will be the biggest problem. Is it cable operated. One lever engages the brake one engages the spool in .

ga jones · October 20, 2013, 07:17:14 PM

The last time I bought parts for my Franklin model 600 winch I bought from the Oliver stores.they only had half the stuff I needed. I had some parts machined.does it have 8 lug axles?

fudrockcity · October 20, 2013, 09:12:57 PM

Hi ga jones, you nailed it! I have 8 lug axles and the two lever cable operated winch. So who are the axle, differential and planetary manufacturers? Also, who makes the trasmission and transfer case? One last thing, what are the Oliver stores and could they be a good source for my model 20 winch? Sorry about all the questions I just want to learn as much as possible. Internet information seems pretty scarce so I appreaciate your help.

fudrockcity · October 20, 2013, 09:56:54 PM

HiTech · October 20, 2013, 11:53:32 PM

Nice looking old skidder. I wouldn't be surprised but the parts can be interchanged with a C4 tree Farmer. They were 8 lug wheels. The planetary's and axles and stuff are probably the same.

loggah · October 21, 2013, 07:14:54 AM

Im pretty sure the axles are Rockwell, Oliver Stores were the first Franklin Dealers in the area and were in New Glouster(SP) Maine ,they had 4 stores ,one in Lancaster N.H.. They have been bought out by Anderson Equipment. If you need any parts Eddie Nash and sons in Coldbrook N.H. had a bunch of them for spare parts.You did well buying that machine,decent price. Don

thecfarm · October 21, 2013, 07:19:24 AM

There is a Oliver store in Farmington ME. If that helps.

ga jones · October 21, 2013, 09:11:03 AM

The axles are rockwell most likely pr52 need better pics of them.the transmission and transfer case I'm not sure. There different than tree farmer.

fudrockcity · October 21, 2013, 09:30:34 AM

Thanks everyone for your input. The centers have up and down movement but not much lateral play. Should the pins be shimmed, if so ho much? Also, how do I know if the boss is worn out?

loggah · October 21, 2013, 05:34:50 PM

If you mean the trunion where the rear pivots on , there is a large bronze bushing that even if its a bit loose i wouldn't worry about it. i think the transfer case is built by franklin. i may have so info on it ill try and find it.

Dave Shepard · October 21, 2013, 05:57:15 PM

The axles look like the Rockwells on the TJ208.

fudrockcity · October 21, 2013, 06:47:49 PM

It's a 1968 skidder and the transfer case reads rockwell...but I could not read the nameplate on the 3spd transmission. I got a chance to start tinkering today and in the process I realized the majority of the "up and down" play is behind the center pins in the carrier that allows the rear of the machine to ociliate indepently from the front. I wonder if you guys have any experience with this phenomenon.
I am willing to take more pictures and upload if you think it will help in identifying various component manufactures...just let me know what you need to see. You folks have already helped a bunch.

Ford_man · October 21, 2013, 07:46:11 PM

I like the little Simplicity disc in the foreground , I bought one of them 58 yrs ago when I was 14.

loggah · October 22, 2013, 02:55:48 PM

1968 is pretty early, i have specs on a 1974 130a/xl.in the 74 rockwell pr64's were the standard axles, and a fuller 5a330 was the standard transmission, not sure on the earlier machines.

fudrockcity · October 22, 2013, 05:45:57 PM

Hi logga,
I hope to have an owners manual on order this week and a parts book for the winch and machine. I was told today that they are probably pr61 and the transmission is a fuller 58330 four speed and a vickers hyd. pump. The engine is a 436 Perkins. I'm slowly learning more details by the day. I am planning on taking apart that trunnion tomorrow.
Thanks for the information

loggah · October 22, 2013, 06:00:05 PM

I think you will find the engine is a 4.236 Perkins ;D 4 cylinder ,236 cubic inch71 flywheel H.P.. Those perkins are good engines, i have two Massey tractors with a 4.203 ,and my brother has a 175 Massey Ferguson with the 4.236 engine in it.

fudrockcity · October 22, 2013, 10:21:36 PM

4.236 Funny, now that we're talking tractors. I've got a Massey 65 with an AD4-203...good engine indeed I just recently rebuilt the infamous multi-power transmission on the old girl. Now she runs like a top and I get engine braking to boot! If you have a multi-power than I'm sure you know what I'm talking about.

fudrockcity · October 23, 2013, 06:41:41 PM

Today I seperated the machine, removed the trunnion tube and the bronze bushings. Made a nice puller and took some pictures incase anyone else out there decides to do same project on their Franklin.

Dave Shepard · October 23, 2013, 08:20:21 PM

Well, you're not bashful about getting into it. :D I took a skidder apart in my yard once. Got it back together too. Five years later. :

loggah · October 24, 2013, 06:54:19 AM

I did that once myself ,to a franklin forwarder that rolled 10 times down a ski slope !!

Ed_K · October 24, 2013, 06:28:26 PM

Did that to my Taylor out in the woods, I'll NEVER do that again :(

.

nhlogga · October 24, 2013, 07:57:30 PM

Quote from: loggah on October 21, 2013, 07:14:54 AM
Im pretty sure the axles are Rockwell, Oliver Stores were the first Franklin Dealers in the area and were in New Glouster(SP) Maine ,they had 4 stores ,one in Lancaster N.H.. They have been bought out by Anderson Equipment. If you need any parts Eddie Nash and sons in Coldbrook N.H. had a bunch of them for spare parts.You did well buying that machine,decent price. Don

The Oliver Stores got bought out by Andersen Equipment as did Hazelton.

lynde37avery · October 31, 2013, 08:08:12 AM

congrats on the franklin, I learned a little about the machine so far I have had mine for over 2 years now. pulled lots of wood so far. harolds logging should have some spare parts.

mad murdock · October 31, 2013, 01:19:26 PM

Quote from: loggah on October 22, 2013, 06:00:05 PM
I think you will find the engine is a 4.236 Perkins ;D 4 cylinder ,236 cubic inch71 flywheel H.P.. Those perkins are good engines, i have two Massey tractors with a 4.203 ,and my brother has a 175 Massey Ferguson with the 4.236 engine in it.

I'll second that thought, those Perkinses is easy on fuel and dependable to boot!It'll be a nice wood getter!
8)

David-L · November 01, 2013, 06:39:49 AM

Nice work, I know multi-power well. I like the rolls for the rear blocking. Nice machine, my buddy has one and loves the old girl.
David

fudrockcity · November 05, 2013, 07:14:32 AM

I've been waiting to recieve some new parts for the skidder so in the meantime I decided to tackle the leaky oil seal on my winch. I took of the front cover to reveal a simple combination of 4 gears and the splined shaft that engages the winch...nothing high-tech here. I soon realized that the reason for the leaky oil seal was because I had 2 bad bearings that retain the input shaft, which as a result wore slightly on the front of the shaft just behind the yolk and oil seal. I pressed on the new bearing. The lateral play was about an 1/8" and the interior of the bearing spun indepently from the shaft...not good. It's always interesting to put together the pieces of cause and effect...I had a feeling it was going to be more involved than just replacing the oil seal.
I pulled off the new bearing and built up the seat on the shaft by brazing a bead around where the bearing sits, turned it down on the lathe to the diameter of the inner race and unworn hight point on the input shaft. Today I put it back together and see if it works.

fudrockcity · November 05, 2013, 09:08:13 AM

fudrockcity · November 10, 2013, 05:19:53 AM

I went to change the the front differential oil and bearings started to fall out of the drain hole like broken teeth. The rear rearend had the beginning symptoms as well. I pulled the axles and both differentials out and ordered new pinion and pilot bearings. The ring and pinion showed only limited wear so it wasn't all bad news. The planetarys have brass pins (the rear planets have an interior cage similar to what galogger was talking about). Axle bearings are tight and the gears are good. I did order some new brass pins to replace the leaky ones. I'm still waiting on oil seals and bearings for winch and transfer case. Winter is moving in and I'm really hoping to have this project wrapped up before snowflies...someday a shop would be nice.

terry f · November 10, 2013, 08:02:54 AM

If you ever get bored, you can come work on mine. You would have it done while I was still thinking about it, good work.

Holmes · November 10, 2013, 08:16:54 AM

You are doing a great job. I enjoy seeing posts on jobs I would like to do but I don't have the equipment or knowledge. Fun to watch the [ forward ] progress.

posts

mad murdock · November 10, 2013, 04:06:07 PM

Quote from: terry f on November 10, 2013, 08:02:54 AM
If you ever get bored, you can come work on mine. You would have it done while I was still thinking about it, good work.

Terry, I was just thinking to myself, "I wonder how old terryf is getting along with his new machine?" How is it going your way?

terry f · November 10, 2013, 07:51:48 PM

Thanks Mad Murdock, been playing dozer more than logger, but couldn't be happier. Would hate to take it apart like fudrockcity, there would be too many extra parts left when I tried to put it back together.

lynde37avery · November 10, 2013, 09:00:56 PM

oh I see you opened the winch to repair it. how is it adjusted for the free spool? I have the same winch on my franklin. im too chicken to open it without knowing what im getting into.

Stephen Alford · November 10, 2013, 10:39:05 PM

The free spool adjuster on my ol girl is at the end of the screwdriver in the photo. Not a biggie to open the winch.

There are two holes at 5:30 and 11:30 to put bolts in which push the cover out and off to get at the brake adj for holding. Never seize is a good idea on the lip to make access easier. I always put some silicon on to keep water out.

On another note a couple of things I came across this week are if you have to add oil to your hubs the pump for tire goo works great on a jug . The little hose allows air out and oil in. The second is they now make bifocal safety glasses.

Keep the pics coming fudrockcity. Thanks.

Stay safe and keep looking up .

lynde37avery · November 11, 2013, 10:20:39 PM

oh sweet thanks im a go look right now with my flashlight n see if I see what you pointed at with the screwdriver.

lynde37avery · November 11, 2013, 11:03:44 PM

nope different winch. mine is the same as fudrockcity winch. it has a bolt on top of winch on "drivers side" seems to not do much at all when turned. but you can also take it out too. also only one other bolt on middle of winch looking from the cab back. we will have to see what happens. mine free spools like crazy, spaghetti cable style. winch holds real good tho when I winch in and skid.

Stephen Alford · November 12, 2013, 07:53:39 AM

A lot of winches operate on the same principal ,friction to slow the free spool. Your bolt or set screw may be worn and not making contact. The set screw will keep threading in where the bolt will top out when the head hits. Never seize what ever you use so it can be adjusted at another time. You take some pics and I will go look for those "stupid glasses". :D

ga jones · November 12, 2013, 09:41:17 AM

If the model 20 Franklin is the same as the 600 under the side cover on the driver side there is a nut at the bottom of the brake band that pulls tension on it there's a spring behind it. It adjusts free spool as well as tension.the adjustment on the cable may need tweeking also.

lynde37avery · November 12, 2013, 09:46:14 PM

I will up load all the pics I got of it. n show you the stuff. I seen one pic on here on another thread where a guy had the cover off on the "drivers side" n he had some bar he was using to make it free spool, I don't know what that was about. but I figure the adjuster is inside the side cover?

ga jones · November 12, 2013, 10:04:30 PM

The brake band in these old mechanical winches rests on the drum. the free spool is adjusted by the band applying less weight on the drum. If that makes sense? That's why the bar was lifting up on the band.the band is pined on on top and pulled on at the bottom. put up those pics

fudrockcity · November 16, 2013, 08:49:41 PM

Thanks for the pictures of your winch Stephen Alford. I have the same winch as you and now (thanks to you) I can adjust my free spool. I've been waiting to get my owners manuals from my parts guys since I bought this machine and I have recieved nothing but false promises. Pictures are very helpful, Thank You.
Today I got the winch back together, the transfer case output bearing is replaced, resealed and topped off with oil (I'm watching/waiting for leaks). The planetaries & axle tubes have had the rotten bearings and metal fragments thoroughly douched, now awaiting rebuilt rearends. The transmission has fresh oil...but the problem with this tranny is that I'm still waiting to find a problem with this tranny...we'll see. Just seems to be the way it's been going.
Lastly, rifle season is upon us and the rut is supposed to be in full swing. For some strange reason I have seen very little deer activity since I bought this skidder...too much time wrenching and not enough time hunting...maybe tomorrow morning.
Thanks again for everyones interest and advice.

ga jones · November 16, 2013, 10:13:29 PM

Stephens winch pics look like a gearmatic 19 like the one on my timberjack . Or can-car model 20. Doesn't look anything like my Franklin. The model 20 Franklin must be a hole different winch. The brake on my gearmatic is on the right side my Franklin is on the left sie (driver side.)

fudrockcity · November 17, 2013, 04:42:37 AM

I take it back, mine is different too. I wonder if the free spool adjustment is anything similar?

Stephen Alford · November 17, 2013, 11:52:59 AM

Right you are ga jones ,a can-car model 20, should have said that at the get go.

ga jones · November 17, 2013, 03:39:10 PM

Thanks for clairifying that Stephen. The Franklin cable operated winch I have doesn't have an external adjusting screw. The free spool is adjusted with the band tension.

BHC · November 17, 2013, 07:12:38 PM

used to have a 132, a 1973 model franklin, this had what we always referred to as a swede winch, 2 control handles, 1 for winching in 1 for the break, you could adj the break for free spooling, more or less, by shorting or lenthing the yoke on the cable. same winch on the old case 300's, really it was more trouble free of a wench then the gearomatics.

lynde37avery · November 17, 2013, 08:53:38 PM

mines a franklin 20. free spool help. https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27145/securedownload5B15D~0.jpg

ga jones · November 17, 2013, 09:34:30 PM

You may be able to get the adjustment out of the cable. Where it attaches to your handle there's a yoke threaded on. Adjust it there. There's also one under the side cover. The other side than your picture.thats the ring and pinion side in your picture.dont be afraid to take the side cover off on the other side. It's only a cover there's nothing going to fall out.the cable attaches to to an eccentric lever that pulls on the brake band .i will get some pics up this week.

lynde37avery · November 17, 2013, 10:36:45 PM

thanks ga jones. I will take that cover off n let ya know what I come up with. im really tired of a spaghetti string cable all the time lol. thank you. log on.

ga jones · November 18, 2013, 07:20:13 PM

ga jones · November 18, 2013, 07:23:45 PM

Pic 2 I'm pointing at the tensioning nut. Pic 3 is a close up of that nut and the spring that holds band out when released.pic 4 is the yoke on the cable at the handle.

lynde37avery · November 18, 2013, 07:44:00 PM

you been so much help THANK YOU. its impossible to find anyone around my area who knows about the franklin 20 winch. I will go out the next day im running it n see how it all goes n let ya know. I knew it couldn't be that hard of stuff to find.

ga jones · November 18, 2013, 07:50:35 PM

The pics are from a model 600. It's a bigger version of the 20. It could differ slightly. Good luck.

fudrockcity · November 19, 2013, 05:31:35 AM

Thanks ga jones

ga jones · November 20, 2013, 07:31:14 PM

Lynde u get that freespool
Figured out or what?you can cheat it if u can't. Just don't flip the handle all the way down. Let it down slow until the drum just barely moves .

lynde37avery · November 21, 2013, 10:21:22 PM

I didn't get out of the cider mill in time today. but tomorrow I go to work at the wood lot all day so I will be taking that cover off. I got a new camera n I will snap some pics of what I come across. so these pics will be a lot better than the other ones I took lol.

lynde37avery · November 24, 2013, 07:40:30 PM

I forgot my camera but I took the cover off. adjusted it just the way you showed. works great

thanks so much. ill bring my camera the next day I go to cut some spruce. n I will post pics. new camera I cant wait to use it.

ga jones · November 24, 2013, 09:44:49 PM

Happy to help. They can be a pain even though there simple.parts get worn and don't work as they were intended.

fudrockcity · January 11, 2014, 08:29:00 PM

Happy new year everybody. I'm still plugging away on my Franklin 120. Recent progress has nearly screeched to a hault since this fall. Nonetheless here are the upadates: I got the steering pistons rebuilt and rebushed. I bought a used fork and trunnion tube that was in way better shape then my original but I'm still waiting for the bronze bushings to be made. I got my differentials rebuilt which I plan to pick up on Monday. The grand total for the difs is $1300 and I'm wondering if that sounds like a fair price to you guys as I already purchased all the internal bearings for the guy and I only needed him to reassemble the parts (the ring and pinion was still good on both). Any thoughts?
Next up are the leaking panetaries. I have Rockwell pr61's on the front and pr68's on the rear all of which have worn out covers. I called a reliable used parts guy that I've met since I've become a proud Franklin owner and he's looking for some good used covers for me. In the meantime I'm wondering if I should have my current covers remachined but I don't know what it will cost. I know I can buy the the pr61's used taken out of an AC 445 loader and they sell for $325 with the brass pins. New pr61's cost $500 ea. and the pr68's cost $600 all with new pins intalled. Feel free to voice your thoughts on these prices and what direction you think I should take with my planetaries. Thank you.

ga jones · January 11, 2014, 09:11:25 PM

Aftermarket parts inc. get new

treechopper40 · January 11, 2014, 09:34:01 PM

hi fudrockcity that old franklin you got was my skidder at one time that was a great little machine pulled a lot of wood with that skidder check with eddy nash they may have some parts for that too good luck

coxy · January 12, 2014, 08:07:22 PM

treechopper40 where are you in up state ny I also have a 300 skid king an old pettibone 501 and a518 cat would like to see that 300 ;D

treechopper40 · January 13, 2014, 12:56:47 AM

hi coxy im in colton ny not far from Potsdam or canton I had a mid 70s pettinbone 501 mountain goat it had 18.4-34 rubber whith a 353 Detroit and a 4 speed standard tranny with a gearmatic winch that was a great skidder I worked for champion paper company back in the late 80s and early 90s all I cut was spruce and balsam 4foot cutting and skidding my own hitches I and bucking on the header I pulled 60-70 cord a week every week with that pettibone that was back when the mills paid good ahhh the good old days but ya come up and check out my old skid king 300 that's a good lil skidder too pulls 6 hardwood every hitch I think it would out pull my c5d treefarmer n the steep ground if u wanna come up I can send you my number

lynde37avery · January 13, 2014, 08:05:27 AM

those prices aren't far off from the quotes I got. I paid about 750. for a ring gear, 3 planet gears, the sun gear and 3 brass pins

fudrockcity · February 26, 2014, 06:05:00 AM

My old trunnion bushings were too sloppy so I found another set that showed some promise. I was able to true the first one up with minimal work leaving a .016 space for grease. The second bushing was was cupped on the inside leaving a space greater than my .016 tollerance. I tried brazing up the I.D. but it didn't stick because the bronze had absorbed years of greasy petroleum (no matter how much I heated). I thought about using duct tape but figured I'd try JB Weld first. I slathered the inside with a generous dose and let it cure on the lathe while spinning. Once it dried I was able to turn it down to size leaving a thin layer of the epoxy on the low spots.
Attached are the before and after pictures.

fudrockcity · February 26, 2014, 07:00:28 AM

Back to the other problem at hand...I took the time to thoroughly look over my planetary covers and realized that the majority of the pin retaining holes still fit tight and it was the old pins that had worn. Although there were 2 holes that did exhibit excessive play. I replaced all the pins that showed any sign of leaking or simply looked worn out. When I pressed in the new pin, now I could have used duct tape, but instead I put a thin bead of JB Weld around the outside of pin before it was seated to prevent any further leaking and hopefully eliminate the chance of future wobbling. I replaced all the old set screws with new dog heads and drilled new holes for the points. Today the pins are securely fastened inside the covers...if the experiment works I was able to keep the money in my pocket, if it fails I can always re-machine them or buy new lids for 2 thousand dollars...but that can buy alot of duct tape and JB Weld. I will keep you posted on the success of this repair.

fudrockcity · February 26, 2014, 07:46:48 AM

Yesterday I pressed the "new" bronze bushings into the rear oscilating portion of the machine. I made up some spacers for the tube and got 2 new o-rings to retain the grease on either end of the trunnion. Then, I rotated the the rear of the machine nose first into the air resting the fairlead on the ground. This enabled me to position both the fork and trunnion tube inside the machine using a chain fall by lowering them under their own weight rather than drawing it into place laterally...(this worked slick). Lastly, I snugged up the bolts on the tube, returned the machine to its normal position, chiseled a path in the ice for the rear tires to follow and put in the center pins in....I was happy to see that the tube, bushings, and center pins all fit like new.

David-L · February 26, 2014, 07:57:54 AM

Nice work, those chains on the rears are nice. I had a set on a 230 Jack and they where really grippy and did not give you a bouncy ride. loggers around here scoffed at them and said they would not last or stay on . never had a problem with them in the three years I owned that machine. i ran mine on the back. They were Ofa green from finland and bought them a dealer were someone returned them and got them for half price. Like to see your posts on your work.

David l

fudrockcity · April 01, 2014, 06:11:53 AM

Hello, since my last posting I have reassembled the machine. Once back together I finally had the opportunity to pull some wood and log on about 30 hours on the meter. I wanted to run it to see what components needed repair and it appears that a few minor things will need attention: steering seems slow and a leaking axle seal. But other than that the old girl runs great. She is surprisingly stout but nimble enough to navigate a tight skid road. I especially like how simple the drive train and winch components are; everything is gear driven and is friendly to work on. The winch pull is super strong and it holds tight. The Perkins diesel starts great, runs quiet (my neighbors appreciate this), and is easy on fuel. The frame geometry makes for a stable ride and now that the trunnion and center is repaired it doesn't seem to make so much noise! I am extremely pleased with my old Franklin skidder.
I'm still learning and fixing so I will continue to post questions here in the future. I wanted to thank everyone that shared their advice and experience. Your help has been a fantastic asset during this project. Thank you.
Attached is a picture of my first hitch.

Woodboogah · April 01, 2014, 10:05:51 AM

Looks good. I am sure you were glad to get it in the woods! If you are close to where that was bought you not far from me at all. Give a shout if you need a hand with anything.

fudrockcity · December 01, 2014, 09:01:09 PM

Hello...I've been tinkering with my old Franklin again. I decided to fix the leaky wheel seals and I thought I'd share some pictures in case someone is considering the same venture.

fudrockcity · December 01, 2014, 09:09:51 PM

beenthere · December 01, 2014, 09:14:29 PM

fud
I see lots of pics in your gallery.

One of each prolly enough.. ;D

To put them in a post with some commentary, select the line below and click "Click here to add Photos to post" which will bring up your gallery. Select the tab "My Gallery" and your pic(s) will all show in your albums. Click on the pic you want in your post and it will enlarge. Then SCROLL down to where it gives a couple easy choices to put them in your post. Answer YES and the pic will be in your post.
Talk about the features of the pic and click on "Preview" to verify that is what you want. Then click "Post".

Should work.

I see you got it. Now click "Modify" to add some commentary ... thanks

fudrockcity · December 01, 2014, 09:24:19 PM

Interior of hub beyond top hat and ring gear

fudrockcity · December 01, 2014, 09:29:23 PM

Opposite side of hub showing the race and speedi-sleeve. Just a word of caution speedi-sleeves are super sharp and can slice your brand new oil seal be sure that if it rests proud of he hub to take the edge off. I know this now.

fudrockcity · December 01, 2014, 09:35:18 PM

Opposing sides of the top hat and ring gear. Fit this on while you align your hub and new oil seal onto the spindle this will help keep the hub square. An extra set of hands is helpful.

fudrockcity · December 01, 2014, 09:39:03 PM

Behind the spider. Rockwell Pr61 are on the front of the machine the rears appear to be the same but are installed with an additional interior support bracket for the brass pins.

fudrockcity · December 01, 2014, 09:48:41 PM

Spindle and cone bearing all bolted up. The second picture shows the ring that bolts to the exterior of the wheel seal.

Aerial view of these components all sandwiched together. Notice the oil seal (still shiny) is still somewhat vulnerable to the elements. Keep that in mind when your boggin or charging over barbed wire fences.

fudrockcity · December 01, 2014, 10:01:39 PM

Last and final picture I promise...just an alternate view of the finished product. I did this on all 4 wheels with new seals, bearings, and races...I've had some practice and I'm pretty good at it now...if anyone is considering this venture and has questions please feel free to contact me. Later I put in a 1500 watt tank heater for this winter. Currently working on the exhaust to spark arrestor. Lower output on transfer leaks hopefully this indian summer will last long enough to inspire me to fix it. Thanks for your time!

fudrockcity · January 19, 2015, 08:39:00 PM

In view of the fact that my old Franklin skidder isn't getting any younger I've been actively accumulating a collection of spare parts just in case I have a breakdown, which we all know will happen. With all equipment, I have learned that having extra parts on hand is nearly priceless during component failure...which usually only occurs on Sundays, holidays, or after 5pm so you can't order new parts the same day and its probably raining or snowing out and uphill both ways. Recently I followed up on a vague listing that advertised "Timberjack parts." Come to find out the parts that the seller was offering consisted of the entire drivetrain of a Franklin 120b. I love old iron so I bought everything he had to sell. I now have a spare Fuller 5a330 transmission with rebuilt guts, a Rockwell T76 transfer case, and two complete axle assemblies with matching gear ratio. Later I learned the seller also had a nice looking Forestry Special mounted on an 8 lug rim so I of course fell in love with that too...fortunately the seller turned out to be a super nice guy and he graciously gave me a package deal. ...Now if I could only find a spare model 20 or model 30 winch. I posted this little story only because I know a few of you old timers would appreciate my recent spare parts conquest ...and alas...no one else would!

lopet · January 19, 2015, 11:00:55 PM

Thanks for posting your pictures. I am sure it will be helpful some day for somebody, as we already had several threads about hub seal replacement. It looks like you've got it all figured out and did a nice job. I have never used a speedy sleeve so far, excellent documentation.

tantoy · January 20, 2015, 10:17:53 AM

Quote from: fudrockcity on January 19, 2015, 08:39:00 PM

In view of the fact that my old Franklin skidder isn't getting any younger I've been actively accumulating a collection of spare parts just in case I have a breakdown, which we all know will happen. With all equipment, I have learned that having extra parts on hand is nearly priceless during component failure...which usually only occurs on Sundays, holidays, or after 5pm so you can't order new parts the same day and its probably raining or snowing out and uphill both ways. Recently I followed up on a vague listing that advertised "Timberjack parts." Come to find out the parts that the seller was offering consisted of the entire drivetrain of a Franklin 120b. I love old iron so I bought everything he had to sell. I now have a spare Fuller 5a330 transmission with rebuilt guts, a Rockwell T76 transfer case, and two complete axle assemblies with matching gear ratio. Later I learned the seller also had a nice looking Forestry Special mounted on an 8 lug rim so I of course fell in love with that too...fortunately the seller turned out to be a super nice guy and he graciously gave me a package deal. ...Now if I could only find a spare model 20 or model 30 winch. I posted this little story only because I know a few of you old timers would appreciate my recent spare parts conquest ...and alas...no one else would!

Nice! I need a pile like that for my 20. Good score

fudrockcity · November 14, 2016, 05:17:58 AM

Hello, since my last posting I have made good use of my spare parts supply, and I've pulled some wood out too. I have recently eclipsed the third year of owning my old skidder and I've repaired most of what's been ailing her...so it only seemed right to fancy her up with a fresh coat of paint. I've attached some before and after pictures.

47sawdust · November 14, 2016, 05:40:06 AM

Wow ! I just read this from start to finish for the 2nd time.Great job,good thing your not afraid to tear into it.

thecfarm · November 14, 2016, 05:50:39 AM

All done now? That does look good!!!

tantoy · November 16, 2016, 10:19:34 AM

Awesome! wow new rubber looks nice.

logman81 · November 16, 2016, 02:01:04 PM

Great jobs looks new!

bushmechanic · November 16, 2016, 06:33:39 PM

If those planetary pins are leaking oil then most likely the cover is worn and the press fit of the pins is too loose. New pins won't fix the leaks. Great restoration project even if you didn't plan on it.

skiddered · January 06, 2017, 12:16:46 AM

Wow looks amazing. Is there any way you would share where you were able to find parts. We are running a Prentice/Franklin 120 and having a real hard time finding even salvage parts.
Thanks!!

OldFrank77 · September 08, 2018, 09:12:09 AM

I recently started working a Franklin 120B identical to the one in this post......the machine has been in the family for years but it's my first time using it.........just cutting popple on the home farm occasionally. I'm wondering what fluids to use in the transmission and transfer case and also what type hydraulic fluid to use........thanks.