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Author Topic: Useful sawmill mods  (Read 276230 times)

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Offline jpgreen

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #440 on: November 19, 2008, 09:39:32 PM »
My LT-40 is seriously a pain to level.  I can't believe such a well engineered machine has such a horrible jacking system. I've got to design something else..  ::)
-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

Offline WH_Conley

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #441 on: November 19, 2008, 10:10:16 PM »
Well, you can worry a lot or do what I do. Drop the 4 center down solid and jack the last two on the end up 1" and forget about it.

I have set my lt40 up on area's that  I was afraid that it was going to run me down on tha return.

With the frame these mills have they don't have to be level, square or anything else.. Take that from a  guy that has worked with a lot bigger machinery than  these mills.
Bill

Offline Dan_Shade

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #442 on: November 19, 2008, 10:23:15 PM »
there are a few tricks to setting up an LT40.

first off, I drop the 4 center posts and lock them into place.  then I raise the one at the tongue about 2 holes up, then run the head down to the front, this raises the back up in the air, then I go back to the back two (not the far end), and jack them up one hold past where they are, using shims if needed, then I lower the back one down 2 or so holes from the ground, maybe 3, then roll the head all the way back to the end. and jack up the front two so they are solid, then drop the one at the tongue.

it's not hard to set the mill up, you have to use the head of the mill for leverage.  you can actually lift it up so the wheels are off the ground without much hassle.
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lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

Offline DR_Buck

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #443 on: November 19, 2008, 10:34:08 PM »
there are a few tricks to setting up an LT40.

first off, I drop the 4 center posts and lock them into place.  then I raise the one at the tongue about 2 holes up, then run the head down to the front, this raises the back up in the air, then I go back to the back two (not the far end), and jack them up one hold past where they are, using shims if needed, then I lower the back one down 2 or so holes from the ground, maybe 3, then roll the head all the way back to the end. and jack up the front two so they are solid, then drop the one at the tongue.

it's not hard to set the mill up, you have to use the head of the mill for leverage.  you can actually lift it up so the wheels are off the ground without much hassle.

Dan,

You confused me with the UPs, DOWNs, LOWER and DROP.  smiley_headscratch   Am I extending the legs towards the ground (lowering)  or retracting (raising) them?
Hidden Acres Farm
Been there, done that.   Never got caught

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Offline backwoods sawyer

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #444 on: November 20, 2008, 03:04:49 AM »
This process is repeated 10-15 times on some sets. I have had customer scratching there head as I set the mill up this way.  I was all ready to stick a bang cylinder at the front of the mill but the valve is froze up so will need to get another one before I can install it.
My plan is to set it up like a tongue jack that pivots out of the way. It will mount right behind the hydraulic box, making for easy connections. I may need to add a second hot rail at the other end of the mill so it is more stable by not having to lift the head of the mill as well.
The way it will work is set it down with the weight on it and lower the front of the mill set the two legs behind the wheels then use it to raise the front of the mill. It will save steps and not wear out the back lifting and lowering the front of the mill. The process may need to be done 3-4 times if on a side hill.
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Offline Papa1stuff

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #445 on: November 20, 2008, 07:23:18 AM »
Like I said ,use the leveling system like motor homes use ,just hit one button and machine is level.
Just need to put blocking under the low side !
1987 PB Grader with forks added to bucket
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Offline LeeB

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #446 on: November 20, 2008, 09:19:18 AM »
Pardon my dumb, but what's a bang cylinder?
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Offline pineywoods

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #447 on: November 20, 2008, 09:27:36 AM »
I'm with WH, don't have to be level. Just so there's support under all the jacks.  Mine's set up permanent but it's no where near level, mill don't know the difference, still works just fine.  I know one sawyer who deliberately sets his LT50 up so it's tilted toward the head side.
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Offline Chuck White

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #448 on: November 20, 2008, 09:35:44 AM »
there are a few tricks to setting up an LT40.

it's not hard to set the mill up, you have to use the head of the mill for leverage.  you can actually lift it up so the wheels are off the ground without much hassle.

Dan is pretty-much going by-the-book in his method of setting up the LT40!
Move the the head to either end, then adjust the jack(s) at the opposite end, then, reverse this procedure.
Moving the head to one end really makes it a simple task to raise the other end.

The first thing I do when I unhook the mill from my truck is to place an RV level (the one with a centering bubble) on the tube that the log clamp is on, it just makes set-up quicker and easier!
~Chuck~
Retired USAF (1989), Retired School Bus Driver (2012), and now a Mobile Sawyer
1995 Wood-Mizer LT40HDG2425 Kohler - Shingle & LapSider, Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener, 4-foot Logrite cant hook.
Basic mechanical skills are all that's required to maintain the Wood-Mizer.
I LOVE MY SAWMILL

Offline jpgreen

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #449 on: November 20, 2008, 11:54:46 AM »
I will replace the word "level" with "Stabilizing" my LT40, which is what I meant. I don't think operating the machine un- supported at every point is a good idea with large logs no matter how strong the mill is built.

It is a pain in the butt on uneven ground regardless of the technique used.

If those jacks were variable- ala screw feed there would be no issue at all, and it could be done in 5 minutes.

The notch and spring pin are fine if you do not have to setup multiple times, or you are on flat ground.
-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

Offline Bibbyman

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #450 on: November 20, 2008, 12:01:44 PM »
If I remember right,  the Wood-Mizer team that won the first Shootout just stated the engine mill to get it  warmed up, hand rolled the mill in front of the logs,  dropped the front two supports and clicked them in and rolled a log on. They were sawing wood within a few minutes or less.  But like they say on TV, they were trained professionals dont try this at home.

I never worried about getting an LT40 more than eye-ball level.  I did keep the front two and the center back two up tight and supporting the mill.  I didnt worry about the end supports being tight. 

One other note,  on a portable LT40, the tire on the back side should have some weight on the ground.  It makes a safety outrigger incase a big log hits the back supports too hard!
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Offline Chuck White

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #451 on: November 20, 2008, 12:46:27 PM »

One other note,  on a portable LT40, the tire on the back side should have some weight on the ground.  It makes a safety outrigger incase a big log hits the back supports too hard!



Good point Bibby!  A couple years ago, I was running my FIL's LT40 Manual and I had the tire off the ground (only about 1.5 inches mind you) and a log rolled against the stops kind of hard and the whole mill tipped until that tire hit the ground again.  It didn't take long for me to find a piece of board to put under that tire and it hasn't been off the ground during operation since.
~Chuck~
Retired USAF (1989), Retired School Bus Driver (2012), and now a Mobile Sawyer
1995 Wood-Mizer LT40HDG2425 Kohler - Shingle & LapSider, Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener, 4-foot Logrite cant hook.
Basic mechanical skills are all that's required to maintain the Wood-Mizer.
I LOVE MY SAWMILL

Offline LeeB

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #452 on: November 20, 2008, 07:48:55 PM »
Use your lube water jug for a level. Quick and easier to see than a bubble level.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Offline gmmills

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #453 on: November 20, 2008, 11:20:21 PM »
    WM now offers a new outrigger,leg, system. It's called the fine adjustment outrigger, FAO. Uses the spring loaded pin with integral threaded screw jacking system. Makes leveling the mill alot easier. They are direct replacements for the original legs. Have all six legs on my mill updated to the fine adjustment outriggers. They are a difinite improvement over the old system. 
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Offline jpgreen

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #454 on: November 20, 2008, 11:45:36 PM »
That's what I was thinking about doing with my legs... adding a screw feed foot.

What do they cost GM?
-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

Offline Dan_Shade

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #455 on: November 21, 2008, 06:28:36 AM »
It's about $1000 to outfit the entire mill, if I remember correctly
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lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

Offline backwoods sawyer

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #456 on: November 21, 2008, 10:21:44 PM »
Pardon my dumb, but what's a bang cylinder?

Just a cylinder with a foot on the end with no flow controls ect.

I have to disagree on having the wheel off the ground as the springs would have give as well. I get the wheels just off the ground so the springs are stretched out, giving the head more clearance on the cattle guard that is on the axel. I place a 6 level on the mill and get it close but some locations require digging out under a leg just to get the top of the leg below the bed height while another leg can be fully extended. Setting up in a location like this can take a bit, as when the mill is first pulled into a spot the head is raised to clear the loading arm it can be a bit tippy. Not having to move the head from one end to the other during set up would make for a safer situation.
The last set up I made I had to drive the lower tire of the mill up onto a 6 tapered wedge to get the mill level enough to unhook from the truck.
I set the four center jacks so that they are all solid with the head in the middle of them, if one is loose drive a wedge under it, then set the front and rear so that they are solid as well even if it requires using a couple more wedges. Not having the front and rear legs planted solidly on the ground will put undue stress on the frame. I always check all the legs after the first log and thru out the day and tighten them as needed.
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Offline Chuck White

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #457 on: November 21, 2008, 11:01:31 PM »
backwoods sawyer;
But, that wheel on the operator side of the mill "is" an outrigger!

I'll bet it wouldn't take much to roll the mill over on it's side if that tire was very far off the ground.
~Chuck~
Retired USAF (1989), Retired School Bus Driver (2012), and now a Mobile Sawyer
1995 Wood-Mizer LT40HDG2425 Kohler - Shingle & LapSider, Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener, 4-foot Logrite cant hook.
Basic mechanical skills are all that's required to maintain the Wood-Mizer.
I LOVE MY SAWMILL

Offline zopi

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #458 on: November 21, 2008, 11:06:10 PM »
i sawed on the -15 in it's new home this morning...cut six cypress pecker poles into random cants ready to be barn siding next summer...anyway, moving the water feed to the drive side and adding
the regulator valve works about like I figured...I sawed all six logs on a tenth the water I was using before..the one drawback is that I get more wet sawdust built up on the lefthand rail..it can interfere
with the head unless I sweep it off every log or so..no big deal.

Has anyone ever considered mounting a lawnmower deck wash fitting inside the wheel housings on a badmill? seems like it's be a decent washdown solution...hook in the hose, wash and blow down to
dry...maybe add a corrosion inhibitor...I'm a freak for CPC...must be the sailor coming out...
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Offline backwoods sawyer

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #459 on: November 22, 2008, 03:14:06 AM »
backwoods sawyer;
But, that wheel on the operator side of the mill "is" an outrigger!

I'll bet it wouldn't take much to roll the mill over on it's side if that tire was very far off the ground.

However, it is a spring loaded out rigger not much of a stabilizing force unless you have all the weight on the tire. Keeping the mill relatively level side-to-side makes for a solid platform.

Besides, I was having a problem with the head binding up as it crossed over the axel, and after talking with woodmizer in-depth about the issue and considering that my mill was built before they started adding the third rail bearing. Getting the weight off the wheel and loosening the leading bearing on the bottom rail was the fix to get past the crown in the frame with out binding up.

I have not had the mill try to tip over on the operator side but I have had an 18 x 36 log go over the log turner and land on the loading arms while they were in the full up position that just about tipped the mill over. The loading arms went down, and the bed of the mill buckled up, then the log went over the loading arms and rolled 20 away.

I carry a set of dog extenders so I do not loose a big log off the operator side.
Backwoods Custom Milling Inc.
100% portable. . Oregons largest portable sawmill service, serving all of Oregon, from our Backwoods to yours..sawing since 1991


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