Started to build my Iron worker today.

Brucer · August 11, 2016, 02:32:59 AM

Since the goal seems to be to get slower motion and higher force (not necessarily more pressure), the simplest method would be to use a large diameter cylinder.

If that isn't available but you have several cylinders of the same stroke and diameter, you could gang them together in parallel and connect the rod ends to a heavy-duty yoke.

Kbeitz · August 11, 2016, 05:40:23 AM

Quote from: Brucer on August 11, 2016, 02:32:59 AM
Since the goal seems to be to get slower motion and higher force (not necessarily more pressure), the simplest method would be to use a large diameter cylinder.

If that isn't available but you have several cylinders of the same stroke and diameter, you could gang them together in parallel and connect the rod ends to a heavy-duty yoke.

It's already made that way...

Kbeitz · August 11, 2016, 05:50:26 AM

My main objective is for everything to move real slow.
I know this is going to be hard because the clys are small
dia. I don't think (or I'm not sure) if you can just gear
down a pump and have it working right. I don't want
to change the clys. So what other options do I have ?

Kbeitz · August 11, 2016, 10:26:16 AM

Moveing right along...

Off to the junkyard to find more parts...
I need to find a V-shaped wedge to fit the other half of the die in the picture.
Or I need to build one. Thats a lot of metal cutting.

1938farmall · August 11, 2016, 10:47:57 AM

you probably don't need a forming punch to actually match the angle of the die. you will likely be "air-bending" the material & therefore just contacting the corners of the die & the nose of the punch. possibly build a punch holder as wide as the shaft with 2 functions: top to clamp onto the shaft, bottom to bolt on a nose of round stock which could be changed as required for material thickness. general rules: die opening = 8x m.t. and punch nose radius = 1/2 m.t. (too small causes excessive cracking).

Brucer · August 11, 2016, 11:17:27 PM

Quote from: Kbeitz on August 11, 2016, 05:50:26 AM
... I don't think (or I'm not sure) if you can just gear
down a pump and have it working right.

Yes, you can. It's service life will go up when you do

. A possible downside to using this option is that the force applied by your cylinder isn't going to increase (if that's an issue).

Without changing cylinders, the only way to increase the force is to raise the pressure, which you can do by changing or adjusting the main relief valve. However, increasing the pressure reduces the service life of the pump (it varies with the cube of the pressure

). You're also limited by the pressure rating of the pump, and the hoses, and the cylinders.

Kbeitz · August 12, 2016, 03:41:17 AM

Quote from: Brucer on August 11, 2016, 11:17:27 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on August 11, 2016, 05:50:26 AM
... I don't think (or I'm not sure) if you can just gear
down a pump and have it working right.

Yes, you can. It's service life will go up when you do . A possible downside to using this option is that the force applied by your cylinder isn't going to increase (if that's an issue).

Without changing cylinders, the only way to increase the force is to raise the pressure, which you can do by changing or adjusting the main relief valve. However, increasing the pressure reduces the service life of the pump (it varies with the cube of the pressure ). You're also limited by the pressure rating of the pump, and the hoses, and the cylinders.

Thanks... I needed that info...