Safety Equipment

[rbhunter]

Ok I have my new saw and I am looking on safety equipment. I was never much on the safety equipment until after I joined this forum and have realized the importance on safety equipment. Reading some of the revews on chainsaw chaps and also the thread on kickback reinforced the need for safety equipment.

I was wondering the order of importance of safety equipment and best places to buy the equipment. I am looking at the woodman chaps and a forestry helmet. Right now I would say the chaps are number one on my list. I have never had a kickback but realize that I have probably been lucky and also I have not run a saw with as much power as the one I have now. These two items as well as some plastic felling wedges are at the top of my christmas list. The chaps I am looking at are not wrap around chaps are these OK? They are Baileys for $49 or $59. I am trying to keep cost down and still get the correct equipment to protect me while running the saw.

Randy

[JohnG28]

Its hard to say what the most important piece of safety equipment is because you never know what is going to happen. I bought chaps and a helmet at the same time when I bought my bigger saw and started going out and cutting by myself, and I don't head in to the woods without them.  I didn't give it much thought before learning from people here, now I head out with PPE anytime I go.  As I was told some time ago, get all the safety equipment before you start going out cutting, the money spent is negligible compared to the possibility of getting hurt.

[bandmiller2]

Its all important but protect your eyes and ears, helmet with earmuffs and screen is manditory. Frank C.

[northwoods1]

1st thing is to have some eye protection, then hearing, then worry about chaps labonville makes some good chaps. I use soft foam ear plugs or a dedicated pair of muffs sometimes both at the same time. I don't like the helmets with the screens and muffs hanging off them I would rather have a good aluminum hard hat something that is comfortable.

If I got to work and had forgot my chaps I would still go out and saw. If I am not falling timber but just sawing and forget my hardhat I would still work. If I forgot my eye or ear protection then I would get back in the truck and go home, those are the 2 most importatn things in my opinion.

[Magicman]

I was wondering the order of importance of safety equipment 

The last thing that you protect is the part of your anatomy that you value the least.   

[Skiddah]

In reality, there is no ranking order of importance for safety equipment.  They all have a specific function to serve and they are all equally important.  This is what I use:
Labonville wrap around chaps - I like the wrap around feature for limbing and sawing in areas that can get tight.  Sometimes your footing is not the best in this situation and the maximum enclosure of the chaps makes me feel better.
Husqvarna forestry helmet - I've owned stihl helmets in the past, I wasn't sad to see them go.  The Husqvarna helmet I've found to be the most comfortable.  The earmuffs are easily adjusted and the screen serves well.  I've worn various helmets over the years, some of my projects required side impact hard hats and those were top heavy and uncomfortable.  Also they were designed with general contracting in mind, not forestry. 
Safety glasses - something with side shielding is very important.  I wear these under my screen for maximum protection.  Debris in your eyes are a quick way to end your day early... or worse.  I have various lens colors too for the different conditions.  Clear helps on most days where there isn't maximum sunlight, but I wouldn't call it a low light situation.  Yellow lenses help when there is low light, such as dawn/dusk or rainy and snowy days.  UV protected lenses for bright summer days.  These glasses aren't that expensive, so having multiple pairs isn't cost prohibitive. 
Steel toe Kevlar boots - I wear the Labonville brand 8" boot for most applications, and have two pairs of the Viking Bushwhacker rubber boots - one pair with regular soles and one pair with caulks for maximum traction.  The caulked pair definitely isn't a dream for running a skidder or other equipment since the caulks aren't great for pushing pedals.  But the advantage is that in slippery conditions I can certainly run if necessary and I don't worry about slipping. 
Gloves - chose whatever pair is comfortable, but I always wear them.  They're very handy for when you're filing a saw, should your hand slip onto the chain when filing a tooth, you'll be glad you had them on.  I try to stay away from the big gauntlet style gloves, since the cuffs fill with sawdust easily.
I also have a Labonville pouch on my chaps belt that contains their first aid kit.  It has a blood stopper pad, tourniquet, ammonia inhaler "snaps", a whistle, and antiseptic wipes.  Everything a chainsaw operator would need should they become injured by a chainsaw cut.  The pouch is nice because I can fit my wedges and files in there also and carry it all at my side in the field.
I also wear HiViz clothing a lot of the time.  I wear it whenever there are other workers around, such as a lot with multiple skidders working closely.  It's always nice to be visible and during hunting season, I like not to be mistaken for game. 

Life and safety is too important to be taken for granted.  Our occupation or activity is dangerous enough as is, no need to add extra risk into the equation by not taking the proper precautions.  Everything I've listed here to a lot of people is personal preference, but with Workman's compensation in Maine, Certified Logging Professional program here, and other factors, it is mandetory (with good reason!!!).

[HolmenTree]

Well written  Skiddah. There are 4 different versions of cutting with a chainsaw. [Warm and cold weather cutting], [logging in the woods/bush and residential tree removal -firewood cutting at the woodpile.]
In the woods I wear safety pants , in town chaps. Safety glasses when its above freezing temps and Peltor screen and muffs below freezing. In my neck of the woods where we work down to -35F I never met a faller who wore glasses, things fog up immediately when you look up. Put the glasses logger on the skidder.
In cold weather I wear 1 finger mitts- tight cuff with wool 1 finger liners. Wool hardhat liner, wool socks with Bama socks in the steel toe ballastic nylon padded Viking rubbers or Viking half leather,wool union suit underwear. Nylon safety pants with sewn in pads,and in extreme cold [ -30F] wool safety pants. The best clothing I found was what our forestry company got out of Quebec Canada. Polyester long sleeve shirt and polyester filled orange hi/vis vest. Don't bother wearing goose down filled vest, from experience in the woods I get a little rip from a twig and then I had goose feather scattered everywhere.
We all know what to wear when its hot outside. :D
Eye, hearing, head, leg, hand and foot protection are your 6 rules.

Willard.

[John Mc]

What equipment is important depends on the type of work you are doing.

Any time you are operating a chainsaw, you need some sort of eye and hearing protection. If you are not felling trees or working where there are overhead hazards (for example, if you get log length firewood delivered and are cutting it up on the ground), you can get by with a pair of safety glasses and some ear plugs for this. If there are overhead hazards, you should be wearing a helmet as well. Like Skiddah I prefer the Husqvarna Pro Forest helmet system ($45 fro Bailey's). There are a number of other good helmet systems out there. A six-point suspension is better than some of the cheaper helmets out there with a 4 point suspension system - it distributes the force of an impact better. Since I already own a helmet, it often gets used even when I'm just bucking up logs on the ground (though in hot summer weather, I'll sometimes switch to glasses and earplugs for this type of work).

I prefer the full wrap chaps, but did use apron chaps for years. The problem with apron chaps is that they can spin on your calf, leaving it unprotected. However, wearing something is better than wearing nothing. If the budget is tight, at LEAST get the apron chaps. Good apron chaps run from about $50 to $65. Good full wrap chaps can be found in the $75-$80 range.

A tip for finding safety gear on a budget: If you go to some of the logging/forestry expos, you can often find good deals on the last day of the show, since vendors would rather move the merchandise than pack it up and bring it back home again. I got my $80 pair of Husqvarna Pro Forest Wrap Chaps for $55 that way.

If ordering online, remember most chaps are not sold by inseam length. They measure from the top of your belt to the top of your foot.

[stump farmer]

Looks like the needed equipment for safety has been addressed in detail in the above posts. Maybe I can bring some points to consider for avoiding an accident and what to do if there is an accident. First off learn how to correctly use the saw. This may entail attending a class, learning from an experienced operator, actually reading the saw owner's manual and finding info on your own. Attitude toward the saw and it's use: take the time to be safe, be aware of your situation (situational awareness), realize what that saw can easily do to you if it makes contact, don't over estimate your skill especially if you plan to do any falling, put pride aside and seek someone with more skill if you're unsure. Having a plan if something does go wrong. Try to have someone else around while you're using the saw who can keep an eye on you and call for help if needed. If out in the field have your vehicle aimed out, keys in ready to drive to the nearest medical facility. Know how long it will take to get to a medical facility and how to get there. A few precautions can make a big difference in the case of an injury from minor scars to re-attaching body parts and, worse case scenario with trauma and blood loss, staying within the golden hour of getting medical care. A basic medical kit with enough dressings to deal with a large and deep cut. You'll probably have to supplement commercially available first aid kits with more large trauma dressings. I don't mean to get too macabre here but chainsaw injuries and fatality incidents happen way to often.

[northwoods1]

another tip on where to find cheap safety equipment is ebay, for full wrap safety glasses in an assortment of colors and foam hearing protectors you can find really good deals in quantity. I don't consider the helmet mounted muffs to be very adequate hearing protection, it might be for some but the foam ones work a lot better I think. And the safety glasses I just get used to wearing them all the time I use them as my normal sun glasses, get a little scratched up just discard they are about 2-3$ per pair. Funny, I like my full wrap glasses in the winter especially when the wind is blowing. Keeps my eyes from watering when I am sawing and need to see what I am doing.
Another thing you can save money on is by putting a 1st aid kit together rather than buying one already made up. I've got a little bag made up with everything you need for serious or not so serious emergencies.

[John Mc]

Well said, stump farmer.

I've been through Game of Logging levels 1 through 4. I picked up some very valuable techniques.

However, perhaps the most valuable thing I learned was my own limitations. I have a much better ability make a good decision on whether "this one is too much for me; I just don't have the right skills and/or equipment to tackle it".  Each level of GOL gave me new techniques to use and expanded the range of what I can tackle on my own. Each level also improved my ability to say "that one is too much for me"... and it gave me enough strength in my convictions to just walk away, rather than thinking "well, maybe I'll just try this and see if it works..." (famous last words).

John Mc

[northwoods1]

Well said, stump farmer.

I've been through Game of Logging levels 1 through 4. I picked up some very valuable techniques.

However, perhaps the most valuable thing I learned was my own limitations. I have a much better ability make a good decision on whether "this one is too much for me; I just don't have the right skills and/or equipment to tackle it". 

John Mc

I was wondering what your talking about when you say "this one is to much for me; I just don't have the right skills and/or equipment to tackle it" does that pertain to something having to do with the game of logging or are you talking about when working in the woods a situation you might come across? I've never had anything to do with the game of logging, seen it, or know anything about I have just worked falling timber for 24 yrs. my observation is that some times you don't have the right equipment and need to get it but otherwise all those trees need to get cut I have never met a tree or situation that was "to much for me" .

[John Mc]

Northwoods-

Sometimes it's just a matter of not having the right equipment with me. Other times, it's a situation that is beyond my capability.

I don't do this professionally. Very little of the stuff I cut absolutely has to be cut. For example, my sister asked me if I could take down the diseased maple hanging over her husband's art studio. If she were willing to let me take out a couple of other trees nearby to make a path for it, I might tackle it. But she wants to keep them. Even if I had the right equipment to take it down safely without removing those other trees, I don't have the skills (not to mention the liability insurance) to handle it. If I had your experience, I might not run into situations where I felt a problem was beyond me (or at least I' run into them far less frequently). I also might not have had the need to take the GOL courses.

The first time I was within 100 yards of an operating chainsaw was about 10 years ago. I bought a saw, read the manual that came with it, and at least had the sense to talk to my more experienced neighbor before I started cutting. I started doing some wildlife habitat management and harvesting firewood on my own land. It wasn't long before I realized I knew just enough to kill myself or someone else. Since I planned on being around to see my kids grow up, and have full use of all my limbs while doing so, I decided to get myself some training.

I don't fool myself that a few courses and some part-time cutting over the years has made me anything approaching a pro, but I'm able to do what I do safely, and have expanded my activities to helping out in a community firewood co-op, and occasionally fell trees for "higher-end uses" than firewood. My equipment has expanded a bit over the years, but it's still landowner-type stuff (33 HP tractor with logging winch, a couple of chainsaws, various other tools), rather than what you may be dealing with. It gets the job done for what I need, but when it comes time for a commercial-scale harvest on my property, I'll most likely hire a pro.

Incidentally, there have been several professional loggers in the various GOL classes I've taken. Most of them felt the classes were worthwhile.

John Mc

[HolmenTree]

Northwoods-

Incidentally, there have been several professional loggers in the various GOL classes I've taken. Most of them felt the classes were worthwhile.

John Mc

Very true, I pride myself with my logging experience but when I took courses through ArborMaster Training [similar to GOL] a big city instructor who cuts wood for a living taught me many tricks I never heard of or done before. Thanks to him I'm getting those big difficult trees between houses on the ground.

Willard.

[log cutter]

 Great advice on safety equipment. One thing to keep in mind is how tired you are. If you aren't  mentally sharp or if your body is tried. It is time to go home. There is no tree worth getting killed over.  Many times a good nights sleep will help clear up a faller's night mare. You come back to work the next day refreshed and the cutting strip will totally look different. And if it is still dangerous get another person to look at it with you and assist you with the falling  of the hazard.  Sometimes some trees are best just left alone. We call those wildlife trees. 
Also  a sharp saw takes less energy to operate. A saw should feed itself, if you have to put pressure on it to make it cut though a log  it is dull. With all of this said experience is the best teacher. If you you are in the game very long expect to smash a few saws,broken handle bars,bent saw bars and a few close calls.  So in closing the number one safety device one can have to protect one's self  sits on top of your shoulders(A quote from my Dad).

[simplicityguy92]

when i bought my new stihl this summer i got a helmet for a good price so i bought it. first tree i cut a 1inch widow maker smaked me on the head . glad i bouht the helmet. the stihl (peltor) is real comfortable and strong

[rbhunter]

Thanks for the replys. I am looking at getting a helmet and chaps for now. I agree that using your head makes a difference. I would like to take the GOL someday even though I don't cut many trees down at this time. So far Baileys is the cheapest place I have found for safety equipment.

[John Mc]

Randy -  now that you're getting your safety equipment squared away, (so we know you'll be around for a while) how about filling out your profile in the forum so we know where you're from? Just click the "profile" button near the top middle of most of these pages. On the page that comes up, click some of the headings under "Modify Profile".

[CX3]

I am a full time logger.  This is what I wear/ and do. 

I wear custom made ear plugs on warm days, and the muffs that came with the stihl hard cap when its cold.  I like to hear turkeys gobble too much to ruin my hearing.

I wear a stihl hard hat religiously.  A large grapevine smashed right on top of me last year and that hard hat just exploded.  I didnt have a bruise one.  No doubt without it I would have ate dinner tonight through a straw. 

I do not wear chaps.  I prefer, although not as safe, carhartt heavy duck work jeans. These are much cooler, but not as safe. 

I wear sun glass style eye protection.  This is very important.  I have had things hit my glasses so hard they would fly off my head.  I like my vision too much to lose it over a five dollar pair of glasses I should have had on.

I wear gloves.  Not the expensive vibration dampening ones, just good leather gloves.

I wear good boots like Carolina loggers.  This is often over looked by some folks.  Good boots are one of the best purchases a man can make. 

And I drive a Chevy truck.  If you cant get to work then you cant use all this cool stuff :D

Good luck and just use your head for something other than a grapevine cleaver and you will be fine

[Mark K]

I prefer to wear chainsaw pants rather than chaps. I've been buying Husqavarna pants and helmets for a few years and found them pretty durable. I wear Matterhorn Kevlar chainsaw boots, one set standard tread and one set caulked, good footing is important. Carry a first aid kit on my wedge pouch and my cell phone in my top shirt pocket. I mainly work alone so I call my wife at set times thru out the day to let here know I'm still kicking. If I have any tree's that I see problems getting them to the ground I plan a day towards the end of the job. I bring someone with me just in case something does happen and level them all that day. I've been through the GOL and recommend it highly. When I signed up I thought it was going to be a waste of time but was proven otherwise. They teach many different techniques. Well worth it.

[stump farmer]

Some other things I've seen in the field that might be useful to someone here. Chaps long enough to cover most of the boot and always used during brushing. Shorter chaps used during falling to lessen the chance of getting caught or snagged if a hasty exit is required. Some fallers don't wear chaps for this reason while falling, some pre-cut the outside seam on their pants (about 3 inches from the bottom) so it will tear instead of getting snagged and holding them in a bad place or just cut their pants high. Taking ear plugs out temporarily to hear what the tree or your holding wood is doing.

I agree with the good boots post above. Having a good grippy sole is important too. You shouldn't be slipping around while cutting. Get a re-sole or retire the boots for some other use. This is probably obvious, but a saw won't even slow down cutting through thick leather boots, don't have a false sense of security. Also don't forget to enjoy being in the woods and running a saw, beats working in an office!  ;D

[HolmenTree]

If you cut right handed, 2 things I have found running a saw , chances cutting your left boot's toe is far greater then cutting your right boot's toe.
Chances cutting your left knee is a hundred times greater then cutting your right knee.
Ballastic nylon and steel toes are ever so important.

Willard.

[park ranger]

I cut some firewood today and put on the chaps, the shorter style not the ones that go clear down to the boot.  The long ones seem to restrict your movement.  I got used to chaps and they just feel good and they keep your pants cleaner too.  The Ben Davis work pants I get from Baileys last for years, the black ones don't show dirt and the watch pocket always has ear plugs in it.  My son did some chain saw work this summer and I noticed a good sized "nip" in the chaps.  The chaps sit on top of the saws in the shop. 

[John Mc]

I always thought the shorter chaps were just for shorter people...

I had some apron chaps that were too short on me... left a gap in protection between the bottom of the pad in the chap, ad the top ofthe protected area on my boot. I replaced them with longer full wrap chaps. (I also have some chainsaw pants, that I like better in some conditions).

[terrifictimbersllc]

Anyone know if composite toe boots are likely to get cut through more so than steel toe boots?
And is kevlar lining in boots valuable against chainsaw injury?   Wesco custom boots can be made with kevlar lining but I thought that was just for puncture resistance mainly for electrical workers.

I just ordered some composite toe chose this because I figured steel toe would be setting off my metal detector all the time.