iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Where do you keep your planer

Started by Rhodemont, February 18, 2018, 08:17:11 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Rhodemont

I have the LT35HD and an edger and now would like to get a planer to bring my lumber to the next level from rough sawn.  Have my mill in a shed with walls on the two prevailing wind/storm sides with a hard pack gravel floor.  I am afraid a planer will be ruined without being in a weather tight building.  Have considered putting one in the garage for storage but would have to move the lumber and set up to use which adds a lot of effort.  What does everybody who planes their lumber do?
Woodmizer LT35HD    JD4720 with Norse350 winch
Stihl 362, 039, Echo CS-2511T,  CS-361P and now a CSA 300 C-O

Kbeitz

You could make a small trailer for just big enough to put two wheels under it. Saw dust and a gravel floor wont mix to well.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Tom the Sawyer

Kbeitz, my sawdust and gravel seem to mix very well.   ;D

Rhodemont,   Probably the next step after a mill and edger would be your drying facilities, or kiln.  You need dry lumber to plane.  As far as location, you are correct that setting your planer up in a humid environment will lead to increased maintenance, those cast iron tables rust very easily.  I try to keep the surface of mine sealed, and the planer is covered with a tarp when not in use.  It is in my enclosed metal barn, which is unheated but now has a condensation barrier installed under the metal roofing.  Make sure the wood is dry before you plane it (and it would be a waste of time if it is still shrinking.)
07 TK B-20, Custom log arch, 20' trailer w/log loading arch, F350 flatbed dually dump.  Piggy-back forklift.  LS tractor w/FEL, Bobcat S250 w/grapple, Stihl 025C 16", Husky 372XP 24/30" bars, Grizzly 20" planer, Nyle L200M DH kiln.
If you call and my wife says, "He's sawin logs", I ain't snoring.

Southside

Basically Tom said everything that needs to be said.  We do custom planing for a customer who brings us his reclaimed wood, as soon as our other customers saw the planer they wanted our rough sawn wood planed - now I am putting in a kiln. 
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Den-Den

My planer is in a closed shop.  I live in a humid area and rust would be a problem under a roof without walls.  If you are going to buy a planer, get a dust/chip collection system also.  Planers produce a huge amount of shavings and they do a better job if those shavings are sucked up instead of going through again.
You may think that you can or may think you can't; either way, you are right.

Don P

Chip marks, yup, if the chip goes around again and beats on the board it leaves a chip mark. If it is for finish work those are a problem.
My 15" planer is mostly for rough dimensioning, it often travels to the job. It's about as big as you can move. It is under a barn shed roof right now, where we planed lumber for the loft floor and a sliding door this past week.  The bed rusts between uses in a day or two. When here it lives under no better conditions. I ordered a new cutterhead outboard bearing yesterday, the inboard is obsolete so I'll need to dig it out and find one elsewhere. That is the second set since the ~mid '90's. For the footage that's been through it not bad but I'm sure accelerated from being in the elements. The jack screws and columns are tougher to operate. But its one of those run what ya brung situations. It has performed well and doesn't owe me a thing so you have to weigh the cost/benefit equation for your situation.

Kbeitz

My wood shop is in the barn with no heat. I always had rust problems until I started using SlipIt Sliding Compound. Everything works better and no more rust. I use it on all my wood working tools and slides.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

xlogger

I too wanted to move my planer and jointer out under an top cover with no sides and floor cover with screening, Maybe a concrete small pad for it to set on . I was thinking if I did I would get a good cover for them and keep table waxed good. Maybe take a look at what Kbeitz said about slipIt.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

YellowHammer

My planer is in a closed barn and concrete floor.  Condensation is a problem.  Two days ago was a good example.  Cold night followed by a wet warm day.  Within hours all my metalworking equipment, except the ones I use heat lamps on, had water beading up on them much like a cold glass of iced tea, or beer, in the summer. 

I use heat lamps under my planer, jointer, and SLR to keep the metal slightly warm and never any rust. 

I learned my lesson the hard way, several years ago.  I bought a relativly expensive planer with sealed main bearings.  It worked great until spring time, when condensation stated happening.  I wiped off the tables, figured no harm done.  Wrong.  Within a very short time one of the mains failed and my cutterhead set down and on the carbide cutters, basically shattering them like a hand grenade.  Tore up some the sheet metal and chip defector.  The repair guy came out and replaced everything under warranty.  Then he swapped the permanently sealed bearings with some that have oil passages and drip tubes that I fill with oil.  Never had a problem since.  As far as we could tell, even though the bearing were basically sealed, they were not air tight and some condensation formed on the internal races which led to corrosion and failure.
So now, I use Bosheild on the tables, and gentle heat in the machines.  No more condensation, rust, or corrosion.
 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Chuck White

If you cover it with a tarp, don't let the tarp go all the way to the floor/ground!

If you do, the planer would get rusty from the moisture being sucked from the ground while covered!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Quebecnewf

I keep my planers in an enclosed shed next to my sawmill shed . No choice on being undercover . Lots of salt in the air here and unprotected is not an option . They would just be a ball of rust in a year. The planer shed on the right ,sawmill
Shed on the left
Quebecnewf





Rhodemont

The process gravel from around here holds moisture even when under a roof but "hard pack" I got in Vermont gets like pavement and works well as the floor in the shed.  I have a lean to coming off the saw shed and one off the barn for drying but yes, takes so long in air  a kiln would be nice.  Most of what I have sawn has been used for my own use as pasture fencing and run in sheds for the horses so have not worried about it being dry. The really nice boards go in the sheds and now I am getting some dry lumber worth planing.  Need to clear it out to make room for more hence need a planer.  An exhaust is a must as I would like to use the chips for stall bedding.  Sounds like a small shed big enough work around the planer and exhaust system with a poured concrete floor is a good idea.  I should be able to put one up pretty quick.  Maybe have doors on both ends so can open them to  pull out feed and run out table and get going without a major set up time.
Woodmizer LT35HD    JD4720 with Norse350 winch
Stihl 362, 039, Echo CS-2511T,  CS-361P and now a CSA 300 C-O

kelLOGg

My planer is in an unheated barn, too, and I get rust on the rollers and cutter head. I keep an oily rag on the feed tables and that keeps the rust at bay.

YellowH, are your heaters on 24-7 or actuated by temp or RH? Your heat system is certainly the cheapest/best way to preserve a sealed bearing. That was a very sobering story.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Brad_bb

What Tom the sawyer said.  I'll only keep a planer in a heated building to prevent condensation and rust.  A kiln is the next step from sawing.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

YellowHammer

Quote from: kelLOGg on February 18, 2018, 07:03:12 PM
YellowH, are your heaters on 24-7 or actuated by temp or RH? Your heat system is certainly the cheapest/best way to preserve a sealed bearing. That was a very sobering story.
Bob

Nothing that fancy.  I've used several techniques, with equal success and simplicity. I've used heat lamps from Tractor Supply (used to keep chicks warm) and also thermostatically controlled radiant space heaters.  Lately, I've been experimenting with simply mounting cheap halogen shop lights over the tools which throws enough radiant heat to keep things warm and provides the benefit of spotlighting the tools and work areas.  In the Spring or anytime there is chance on condensation I just leave the lights on when I walk out for night.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

TKehl

Where you keep it doesn't have to be where you use it. 

I get more mileage out of my shop floor space with caster wheels, though I think i'm going to switch to a pallet jack.
In the long run, you make your own luck – good, bad, or indifferent. Loretta Lynn

petefrom bearswamp

My planer, jointer, table saw and shaper are in my shop which gets to 90 percent humidity in the summer.
I use Johnon's paste wax on the tables and if I mind my ps and qs dont have a problem
the main problem is if i forget to close the blast gate on the planer and even moister are comes in it rusts the table.
I dont use my machinery much anymore the shaper has been idle for 3 yrs or so.
the others for small projects.
Kubota 8540 tractor, FEL bucket and forks, Farmi winch
Kubota 900 RTV
Polaris 570 Sportsman ATV
3 Huskies 1 gas Echo 1 cordless Echo vintage Homelite super xl12
57 acres of woodland

Kbeitz

Quote from: TKehl on February 19, 2018, 07:51:32 AM
Where you keep it doesn't have to be where you use it. 

I get more mileage out of my shop floor space with caster wheels, though I think i'm going to switch to a pallet jack.

Grizzly sells something called a mobile base. You might want to check it out...
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

TKehl

I have a few of them from Grizzly and like them.  Just getting enough equipment now that the pallet jack is looking more cost effective.  Especially for the big old 'arn.   ;) 

Plan to build a bigger (insulated) shop once the house is done though...  ::)
In the long run, you make your own luck – good, bad, or indifferent. Loretta Lynn

Kbeitz

A pallet jack is a little tough getting under some machines. You might want to look into the small electric pull around forklifts.



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Thank You Sponsors!