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Running with a worn out bar...chain damage?

Started by Ga Mtn Man, April 30, 2015, 07:24:52 PM

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Ga Mtn Man

Will running a chain on a worn out bar damage the chain?  My Echo CS-440 won't cut straight and I'm trying to figure out the cause.  I have replaced the original very worn bar but it still won't cut straight.  One chain cuts to the left and one to the right.  This has been a great little saw over the years and I'd like to get it cutting right again. 
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

sandsawmill14

sounds like the way its filed/ sharpened to me  :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

Ga Mtn Man

I will admit that my sharpening skills leave plenty to be desired.  I really don't have a lot of experience with the finer points of chainsaw maintenance.  I bought a cheapo North'n  Tools electric sharpener but I've had mixed results using it.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

beenthere

I'm guessing that you know the problem, and it just might be the sharpening. ;)

Have someone look at your chains after you sharpen them, or while you are doing it, and give you some guidance so you can know that they are sharp and true. Not really all that difficult, but is extremely important to cutting straight. IMO

Even a good electric sharpener is tough to adjust for a job even close to a good hand filing.. again, IMO.
Please, no offense meant to you or anyone using an electric sharpener. Often Sometimes they are "good enough". 
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Ga Mtn Man

Hmmm...guess I need to buy a new file (and watch some videos on hand filing).  So the chains are not likely to be damaged by running in a very loose channel (bar groove...what's it called ???)?
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

4x4American

If you are getting crooked cuts the first thing to check is where your rakers are set.  If you don't have one, get a depth gauge from your local saw shop.  If your rakers aren't evenly filed, you are allowing different cutters to grab more than others, steering your cut.
Boy, back in my day..

4x4American

You can find some good literature on hand filing on the web.  You want to make sure you lower your gullets as you file, if you don't, with time you might think you have the chain on backwards.  I file rakers about every 3 touch ups, or if I have to take a lot off to get back to sharp, or if the teeth are sharp (spitting chips not dust, I just tell by looking at the teeth) and it is not pulling into the cut/just kinda hard to cut in general.  The best way to file, that I have found, is with the bar locked in a vise, filing from the outside of the tooth to the inside.  This keeps the burrs from forming, which break off and make the tooth not as sharp as it could potentially be.  What are you using for chain?  The most common types here on the east are semi-chisel and chisel.  Some confuse semi-chisel with chipper chain.  Semi chisel chain will not cut as fast as chisel, but it will stay sharper longer.  It is also easier to sharpen for beginners, as it is forgiving.  I have found that some dealers don't stock semi-chisel chain.  A couple of construction companies I worked for used chainsaws for non-orthodox things and semi-chisel worked better.  Personally, I use chisel chain.  I have used square ground chisel but really don't notice a huge advantage to it so I stick with the common round-ground chisel, which is less complicated to sharpen.  Plus I have a round chain grinder. 


There are many different depth gauges out there, I recommend a drop center one, they look like this:  http://www.equipatron.com/oregon-10-pack-of-31941-drop-center-depth-gauge-tool-025-rpl-31941.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwpYeqBRDOwq2DrLCB-UcSJAASIYLjXgU-CJzgkmBuBPMrX3nejA_lX934Dp2w3KLioP2kyxoCxEjw_wcB


They are simple to use, just as fast as doing it without, and help keep the file from hitting the tooth. 


*note:  set your rakers to .025" after filing the cutters.
Boy, back in my day..

thecfarm

I know nothing about those sharpenings..I hand file and take one more stroke when the motor is on the left. Just the way I have to do it to keep me on the straight and narrow path.  ;D
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

4x4American

Also, don't count strokes, file the cutter til it's sharp.  You should be able to tell if its sharp or not by looking at it.  If the tip is peened over, it's not sharp.  You want little razors zipping around the bar.
Boy, back in my day..

sandsawmill14

Ga Mtn Man  you might try sharpening the the chain and then make a cut to see if/which way it pulls then take a hand file and hit the teeth 2-3 strokes on the side its pulling to and see if that helps. 4 x 4 could be right if you have filed the rakers  if not that shouldnt be the problem. In 20+ yrs I have never measured the rakers  :-[ ;D I just hit them 3 licks with a flat file every 3-4 sharpening and that gets close enough for me.  Are you having the problem when you are crosscutting or ripping a log? good luck

hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

hacknchop

When you replaced the bar did also start with new chain aswell if not you can damage your new bar.when your saw runs sharpen just the opposite to the way its running this will help you get it right.Its a learning curve but once you figure it out you only get better at it,if I can do it anyone can.
Often wrong never indoubt

4x4American

It's all about being even, sandsawmill.  You might just be good at setting them even.  I prefer the depth gauge for two reasons, one, it's idiot proof, and two, you can't graze the tip of a sharp tooth with a flat file and make it dull.
Boy, back in my day..

Ga Mtn Man

No I did not get a new chain when I replaced the bar.  That's why I asked the question in my original post. 

4x4-  I'm not sure what type of chains that I have.  They are WoodlandPro WPL-19-20RC72 from Bailey's (bought back when they were a sponsor).  I have not been filing the rakers.  I think I have a depth gauge somewhere.  I'll dig it out and give the rakers a filing.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

4x4American

Boy, back in my day..

lumberjack48

 If you haven't been filing the rakers, it means you have more hook on the cutters. If it pulls to the right, the right hand cutters are sharper or have more hook, if it pulls to the left, the left hand cutters are sharper or have more hook.
Get a Carlton File-O-Plate, you can use it to sharpen your chain, then use it to cut the rakers down. I heard guys say their fingers get sore from holding it. After you set in on the raker or the cutter you don't have to hold it while your filing. If you think you have to hold it, use a small pair of vise-grips.

  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ddDPfWr-JI

Take a good look at that first cutter he filed, it was still dull, look close, see that shinny edge looking at you, i call this, the chain is looking back at me, when the chain is looking back at you its dull. You have to file until the shinny edge is gone.

Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

4x4American

It could have also been a burr.  I file from the outside in to reduce that.  Good call on the hook angles.
Boy, back in my day..

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