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Roof material for solar kiln

Started by tacks Y, January 12, 2019, 10:58:59 PM

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tacks Y

I found some used greenhouse panels for sale.  Lexan 2 layers with spacers between to make 5/8" thick. Question would this work good for the roof? Not sure how much yellowing they have, seller says pretty clear. Would this dead air space help or hurt? I live in NW Pa so not real hot here. Talking 8' 9" x 4' for $25.00 seems fair.   Thanks Tom

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

I have seen this on some kilns and it seems to work well.  The air space is indeed an advantage.  As you imply, it may age with time and not be so clear.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

btulloh

Sounds like a good deal and they should work well, depending on the yellowing.  At that price you won't have much money in it.  One thing to look for is how he had it attached and where the holes are.  You may need  to frame to match the existing holes.  To me it sounds like it could be a real good way to go.
HM126

WLC

Should work fine as long as they aren't too yellowed.  As long as they are usable you can't beat that price.  For a greenhouse application they are used to help keep heat in so should do the same thing in your kiln.
Woodmizer LT28
Branson 4wd tractor
Stihl chainsaws
Elbow grease.

tacks Y

Thanks for the input I hope to take a look in a day or two. The seller also has another material but says it has yellowed more.

YellowHammer

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

tacks Y

Well I bought some, so now I am committed to build. Seller said it is lexan, a heavy 1/16" top and bottom with ribs in between 1 1/8" apart.   5/8" thick over all and clear enough to read a paper through it. Hope to start this winter. Thanks

btulloh

That's a good deal.  That stuff is really expensive new.  I'd be tempted to by some extra pieces if you had a good place to store it.  Good luck with your build.
HM126

pineywoods

Even if it's yellowed, it still may be usable. Transparency to visible light is un-important, it needs to be transparent to infared radiation. Infared is what makes the heat..
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

Pinewoods is correct...about half the solar energy input is visible and half is near infrared.  The ideal cover is transparent to solar and near infrared, but reflects far infrared back into the kiln.  There is no question that two layers are better with a dead air space between them.  Most glass that is not green colored when looking at the edge is fantastic for a cover, but is certainly at risk for damage from hail or rocks.

Near infrared comes from hot sources that are really hot like the sun.  Far infrared comes from items in the kiln that are only 0 to 200 degrees in temperature, like a black painted wall, pile cover, etc.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

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