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Changing planer head inserts

Started by petefrom bearswamp, April 16, 2019, 07:01:18 AM

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PA_Walnut

Probably begs noting that the torque rating is in INCH POUNDS, not FOOT POUNDS.  ;D
I own my own small piece of the world on an 8 acre plot on the side of a mountain with walnut, hickory, ash and spruce.
LT40HD Wide 35HP Diesel
Peterson Dedicated Wide Slabber
Kubota M62 Tractor/Backhoe
WoodMizer KD250 Kiln
Northland 800 Kiln

YellowHammer

I use the T handled dedicated torque wrench, its factory set for one value and never changes.

I like to use the low power impact (either battery or air) drivers to get the screws to break loose.  

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

petefrom bearswamp

Bridgewood supplied a t handle torx wrench with the machine, it lasted about 1 dozen screws when I turned the first time, then broke.
The bits are breaking right at the top of the screw.
Too late in the evening after spending a full 8 hrs at the mill today, brain has turned to mush.
Will come back tomorrow
Kubota 8540 tractor, FEL bucket and forks, Farmi winch
Kubota 900 RTV
Polaris 570 Sportsman ATV
3 Huskies 1 gas Echo 1 cordless Echo vintage Homelite super xl12
57 acres of woodland

btulloh

Not to beat a dead torx here, but it sounds like what happens when using a standard torx driver in a torx-plus head.  The torx driver fits and feels pretty good, but it has far less bearing surface when it's in the torx-plus head and will shear the splines off.

At first glance they're hard to tell apart.  Look at your screw heads and compare them to this:



 

HM126

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