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My first RRQS White Oak

Started by Brad_bb, September 22, 2018, 09:51:29 AM

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Brad_bb

 I've had this 16' White Oak log in my shed for 4 years.  31" on big end, 25"  on small end. The outer 4 inches very dry and some checking.  One of the first logs I got.  Very clear, but had some twist on the outside. I needed some 4x6 Rafters so I decided to Quarter Saw the rafters not for fleck, but for dimensional stability.  Although some faces had full fleck, I tried to balance the the angle of the rings to the 6" face for symmetry.  So when done properly, they looked the same on both sides- full fleck on both sometimes, or small fleck on both sides. I oversized the rafter dimensions by 1/2" as I usually do for planing.  You can see I was marking the small end with a template to try to figure out how I was going to saw.  I did start out by chainsawing the butt to get a good amount of the taper off, then milling octagonally (gun barrel'ing) lightly.  I did cut the log into a 5 footer and 10 footer for the lengths I needed.


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

SawyerTed

Woodmizer LT50, WM BMS 250, WM BMT 250, Kubota MX5100, IH McCormick Farmall 140, Husqvarna 372XP, Husqvarna 455 Rancher

YellowHammer

Well done, especially with a manual mill. 8)
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

kelLOGg

Looks like you got it. RRQS is my go-to method for QSing. Manual mills are so slow on log handling that adding a little more time to RRQS is worth it to see the fleck in every cut (usually).
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

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