Using Green Pine Slabs

[4x4American]

I've sawed out quite a few nice 3" thick by about 24" wide and 8' long live edge eastern white pine slabs.  The ones from this one log had nice blue stain in parts and the bark was all off of it.  I want to make a bench/table out of them for my family.  Here are my questions:


1.  Would it be silly of me to put it up green? 
2.  If I coat just the top and ends with something (whats best?) will it still dry from the bottom?
3.  If I screw it good n tight in spots is it likely to move?  The slabs came from a nice straight log that didn't show much stress when I sawed it. 
4.  What is the best way to preserve the blue stain?


Thanks   

[PC-Urban-Sawyer]

I've sawed out quite a few nice 3" thick by about 24" wide and 8' long live edge eastern white pine slabs.  The ones from this one log had nice blue stain in parts and the bark was all off of it.  I want to make a bench/table out of them for my family.  Here are my questions:


1.  Would it be silly of me to put it up green? 
2.  If I coat just the top and ends with something (whats best?) will it still dry from the bottom?
3.  If I screw it good n tight in spots is it likely to move?  The slabs came from a nice straight log that didn't show much stress when I sawed it. 
4.  What is the best way to preserve the blue stain?


Thanks   

In response to each question...

1. Not necessarily, as long as you can live with it as it dries.
2. Not a good idea. Sealing the top and ends but not the bottom will increase the probability that the slabs will bow and cup during the drying process. I don't know of a finish that can be used successfully in this situation, but maybe somebody else know more than I do (wouldn't take much...) If you finish the top and sides/ends but not the bottom, it will lose more moisture through the bottom than the other surfaces, this will promote more movement. You should seal the ends but leave the remaining surfaces unsealed, this will minimize checking/cracking from the ends.
3. The wood is going to move (period). You could screw down one point on each slab tightly as long as you made allowances at each other point for movement (ie, slotted holes for screws, figure eight fastners, etc). I'm talking about across the width of each slab, since that's where the major movement will occur. You can safely ignore expansion along the length of the slab. For instance, you might have three cross supports, one on each end and one in the middle. The slabs can be fastened tightly with one screw up through each support in the middle of the slab. You can then use slotted holes (through the supports) on screws toward the edges of each slab. Those screws should not be pulled up tight, but just snug enough to "help" hold the edges of the slabs down. Also, I would leave a small gap between each slab, just in case they pick up MORE moisture and expand.
4. Until the wood is finished the surface will weather which will tend to obscure the blue stain. I'd wait until the wood dries thoroughly before doing a final sanding which would refresh the surface, then apply a finish which has plenty of UV protection.

You should also minimize the exposure to direct sunlight, both during the drying phase and subsequent to final finishing.

Good luck!

Herb

[4x4American]

Thank you!

[WDH]

There is no instant pudding.  You need to let it dry. 

[4x4American]

Always so strict, you are!

[WDH]

The good thing is that it is white pine, which behaves better than most.  If it was pecan, you would go insane.  If it was sweetgum, you would swear off wood  .

[sandsawmill14]

The good thing is that it is white pine, which behaves better than most.  If it was pecan, you would go insane.  If it was sweetgum, you would swear off wood  .

:D :D :D