Dealing with a log that's too big in diameter

[jackganssle]

Folks,

I just got some big ash - 31" in diameter, which exceeds the 27" limit on my LT-15. I guess I'll try ripping it with the MS362. But I'm a novice sawyer - is there another way, something I'm missing?

Jack

[Jeff]

Well, you could always go the extreme route.   Black powder splitting can be fun.

[weisyboy]

dont have that problem with the lucas.

i slabbed some 52" diameter blue gums on mundy.

[VT-Woodchuck]

Hey Jack, I have milled logs 30-32" on my LT15 - it just takes a lot of turning. And with ash that could be a struggle, mine were pine.

[northwoods1]

Can't you just take a few slabs off with the biggest bite possible that should bring the diameter down to what you can handle? If its just a flare on a big log sometimes creative use of a chainsaw will get the guide by. tc

[paul case]

the whittling the sides down idea is by far the best. my experience with logs that are too big is that if you can load them, cut the sides off with a chainsaw and if you are able to use a loader you can take off big enough slabs to cut boards out of later. if not then slab it down quite a lot on the first side then roll it and it will be small enough then to pass everything.(that is only turning 1/4 turn) i have slabbed out some logs live edge all the way and that is just about as hairy a deal as you could ask for on a 36'' log that is 10' long. plus the slabs are heavy enough that a fella really dont wanna have to do it much. might make you charge extra for that kinda stuff.
every time i have had to split one with the chainsaw, i waste a lot of wood since my longest bar is a 25''. cuts never line up. not enough experience i guess?  those big ones can be boogers. 
oh yeah , on my mill on the ones that are about to the limits on big, the clamps wont raise enough to work and i have found that you can wedge the log in the center of the bed with wood blocks and a hammer to set them in under the log good.that is only good on the first cuts. when you turn it the clamps should and must work. be careful . those biguns can  roll off on to you . pc

[terrifictimbersllc]

The problem is that the blade will only go up so far,and you have clearance issues with the guides hitting irregular parts of the log, even if it looks like it is clearing as it begins the cut.  You can't run the head along above the cut because you're already at the maximum.  So you have to judge where on the log you can finish the cut.   At these diameters it would be nice if the logs were perfect cylinders.   :D :D  If a 31" log on an LT15 (27" dia spec) is like a 38-40" log on an LT40 (36" dia spec), you won't be cutting any slabs for resawing, instead you'll be lucky to be shaving short 1" boards off if you can call them boards.   Probably instead bits and pieces 1/2" thick.  I'd say it takes me one to one and a half full turns before such a big log starts getting under control, and sometimes stopping at eighths, not quarters to take something off.  You have to look for any opportunity to make a through cut.    There's another similarity, the big logs can be very slow to turn on Lt40 super, and also slow to turn on LT15 :D :D  Seriously best thing is to not get jammed in a cut you can't finish, if you see an obstacle, stop before you get jammed, back it up, and take a chainsaw or timber slick to it until the guide can get past. Do not recommend trying to adjust the log in the cut, but sometimes have pried the back end of a big log one way or the other where it seems stable and flat on the bed.   not with the blade running  :D :D

Long winded statement of the obvious but sometimes not as obvious until you've done it a few times.  :P :P Learn faster when doing the above while customer watching and paying hourly. but I warn them in advance "big logs are not the most economical source of lumber".

[terrifictimbersllc]

p.s. if Captain Kirk, Spock or Scotty were doing this he would adjust a knob on his phaser, stand back about 6 feet and burn off slabs, then some corners, then put it on the mill.

[Tom]

I'm for trimming the sides for the guides to clear over splitting the log.   IF you choose to mount the entire log and trim the sides, try to plan on turning it 90° rather than 180°.  It will save you a lot of chainsaw work.   Work hard not to let the log turn past 90° because it's mighty hard to turn it back once you pass that point   If you miss the "point", go ahead and saw the slab off, even if it isn't square.   You can square it later when it's smaller.

[Ron Wenrich]

I'm talking from a circle mill standpoint.  My maximum width of cut is 20".  When I tackle the bigger logs, I take a pass where my saw will clear.  Then turn it maybe 1/8 of a turn or where it will clear again.  Turn 1/8 of a turn again.  And continue the process.

Its called shotgun barreling and it should work on the band mills, as well.  Its a lot of turning, but they're not big turns.  Eventually, you will get to a point where you can start to take some boards before you turn.  When you get to the point where your saw passes all the way around, then saw like a regular log.

The only drawback a band mill might have is if you can't pass on your height.  Bells and knots should be trimmed back on the log before you start.  It will save you a couple of turns. 

[TimJr]

I'm with Woodchuck. I have also milled logs this big on my LT-15. I put the log on the mill, take the blade off and run the head down the log to see where i need to trim with the chainsaw. I agree with only turning the log 90 deg. after the first cut also.

[redbeard]

This was a 42" White fir alot of work on the big logs, I channel out a path so guide roller can make it through then whittle it down to a manageable size. This is where cantilever WM mills come in handy hard to get big logs squeezed between the posts.

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

Im pretty lucky I don't have to worry about that issue ever again now that I have the Lucas's  ;) :D ;D 8)

I have fitted about 40"+ logs through an lt40 Woodmizer on a regular basis in the past but its nothing but a pita and takes forever to do  and is hard on the mill  : :( >:(  ;) :D  Shot guning's easy on a carriage as you don't have anything to get in the way on the top half of the saw  ;) and seeing your only talking 3" over the max of the mill so id go for the hack n slab /modified shotgun method just cut out enough to get through without hitting your guides Mate  ;) ;D 8)

Regards Chris

[west penn]

   You can also take the blade off and give it a dry run so you can trim off anything with a chainsaw  that will hit the guides . If possible, notch out  for more than one cut.

[bandmiller2]

I have wasted too much time cutting oversize logs on a bandmill,  stuck halfway, ruined bands and lost production..Let those big suckers keep you warm this winter,old copout sawyer. Frank C.

[Magicman]

I agree.  They are certainly not worth the trouble, but I'll still throw one up on the mill in a heartbeat.  There's just something about conquering, beating the unbeatable, showing that sucker who's boss.

I doesn't really matter what size mill that you have.  Small mills have trouble with 30 inchers.  Larger mills have trouble with 40 inchers.  You chainsaw notches and grooves.  Cut off knots, butt flairs, and irregularities.  Sweat.



Here's a 42" butt log.   :-\



Now I can saw it.   ;)

[terrifictimbersllc]

Big ash

[customsawyer]

Since you have to turn by hand with a LT15 you can always turn it backwards about an 1/8 or 1/4 of a turn and then your outside blade guide is running where you just cut and there is less chance of getting mill hung up.

[terrifictimbersllc]

Now I can saw it.   ;)

How about make 36" dia dowel cutter hook up to PTO?  :

[sigidi]

 ;D I'm gonna be painful like the other two swingers... I love my Lucas!!! ;D 8)

[Meadows Miller]

Big or small We'll Take Em ALL   :D :D :D ;)  ;D ;D 8) 8)