Sharpening blades vs shipping blades

[Deese]

First--I want to say that before I post a question on here, I do my best to research through old posts for the info I seek :P...the last thing I want to do is bambard the topic board with basic questions that can be answered with a little bit of personal effort...but I've got to ask y'all on your opinion as to what I should do regarding blade maintenance...

As many of you are already aware, I have ordered my mill (EZ Boardwalk JR) along with 20 bands (blades) and it should be here soon. ;D

I realize that extra sharp blades are very important considering the fact that I will be cutting roughly 23 acres of hardwoods (mainly red oak) with a smaller 13hp honda engine. 

I guess I just don't know how quick I'm going to run through these 20 blades before they need resharpening...

If I sent them off for resharpening, I would send 10 blades off at a time, so that I wouldn't ever be without any...
But---If I cut my logs on the weekends and saw Mon-Fri after work, I'm still concerned that I'm going run out of sharpened blades before the other 10 return in the mail.

I see that there are several band saw blade sharpening systems out there. I also understand that I still wouldn't be able to "set" the teeth on the band, but I've been told that you can get 6-8+ sharpenings out of a good quality band before it's no good even without resetting the teeth (not sure if that's the correct terminology).

So here are my questions based upon everything above:

      1--Should I consider investing in a band saw sharpening system? I've seen them advertised for around $400 or so...

      2--If I plan on sawing for a couple hours each evening Mon-Fri (remember--red oak), should I plan on having more
           than 20 blades on hand at a time if I choose not to sharpen the blades myself?

Basically--I just want to keep the ball rolling once I get started. I can either buy more blades or invest in a sharpening system...

Your thoughts/opinions would be greatly appreciated. I just need some guidance!

[Deese]

Whoops, just found a long discussion about this on the forum.
Sorry for the redundant question---should have searched a little harder before creating this topic :-\

My BAd!!!!

[Deese]

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,56991.msg826778.html#msg826778

[samandothers]

Thanks for posting the link.  My short memory, I enjoyed refreshing my knowledge on this topic......

Lets see what was the topic?  :

[ladylake]

If you do a lot of sawing get a good sharpener and setter, your checkbook will thank you. Plus you won't run dull blades.   Steve

[terrifictimbersllc]

Something to be said for learning to saw with blades you know are properly sharpened and set, before adding questions about that into the mix.  Also I couldn't see using blades that weren't consistently set.

[hackberry jake]

A few of us have built a pineywoods vise setter. Its accurate and cheap but not very fast.https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,50749.msg732898.html#msg732898

[Bibbyman]

Here is my opinion anyway.  Send them off to get resharpened.   Twenty should give you plenty in reserve to send off 10 at a time.  But I'd get right on it as soon as you get 10 dull. 

Why do I say send them off?   Because you'll have plenty to deal with just getting the mill up and running and having fun sawing.  Sharpening blades and getting them right is another learning experience you don't need to start with. 

Some sawyers don't think you're really sawing unless you've mastered blade sharpening.  They take pride in tweaking hook angles,  set, and so on.  I'd advise delaying that part of sawing until you have mastered the other aspects.   If you get a blade off in left field your mill won't saw right and you may not be able to figure out why.



We visited with Edward Zimmerman at the Old Thrasher's show at Montgomery City last Friday.

[beenthere]

Sorry for the redundant question---should have searched a little harder before creating this topic

That is not "a Bad" on this forum. It is just a good reminder and a good link to a previous discussion. ;)

[Tom the Sawyer]

+1 on Bibby's advice, you'll have enough to learn without throwing blade sharpening factors into the mix. 
No amount of sharpening can fix a poorly set blade. 
Blade set problems have caused me a lot more head scratching than dull blades.   

[Migal]

JMO 20 is a good number of blades to start with do not get discouraged if a few end up hanging on a fence post as a reminder what not to do  :D and yes let the pro's sharpen your blades just look at MagicMan as a role model for getting lumber made although there are plenty of other's that come to mind and all are great folk's.  8) 8) 8) Have a great time making your own lumber! Warning it is addicting  ;D

[LeeB]

I suggest you might want to get 10 more blades fairly soon. I know I trashed a few when I started out. Heck, I still trash one now and then.

[customsawyer]

Learn how to saw then learn how to sharpen. Two totally different things. JMOP.

[WDH]

Your 20 blades will be OK.  I have been sawing for 12 years with 20 blades, you just have to send off the box of ten for resharp pronto like Bibbyman said.  You are not likely to saw enough volume starting out for the first few years to warrant the investment in a proper re-sharpening set-up.  Let the pros resharpen for you.  I use Woodmizer Re-sharp.  It is about a 5 - 7 day turn-around from the day you ship till the re-sharpened blades come home.  You would have to have sawn 5000 to 6000 BF in the meantime to use up your other 10 blades, and that is not likely to happen very often at all unless you are doing a whack of custom sawing. 

The other good thing about Woodmizer Re-sharp is that they replace any damaged blades that cannot be re-sharpened with new blades, so you will always have 20 good blades to work with.  You might look into running Woodmizer blades and use their re-sharp program for blades on your EZ-Boardwalk mill.  They are fast and the re-sharp quality is excellent.  It is one less thing that you have to worry about. 

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

I highly recommend Wood-mizers RE-SHARP service. I send my to Georgia. They do an excellent job!

[hamish]

Guess it all depends upon where you are.  Woodmizer in Canada doesn't have a re-sharp program, and the usual cost for a sharpening is at a professional shop locally is $17 (delivered) for a 12' band.  Dependant upon the band, new can be had for $20 to $40, one really has to do the math.

As a part time/self sawyer at 20k BF/yr and the oops factor I sharpen myself, and set myself.

Get a lot more mileage out of your equipment if you have the time, but if you have the money, run em till dull, ship em to me and buy yourself new ones.

[fat olde elf]

I basically agree with Jake and WDH (and others) What brand of bands does EZ Boardwalk sell? If they are from Woodmizer then Woodmizer will resharpen them. I understand WM will not sharpen other brands. Cooks will resharpen most brands and they are close to you, near Dothan. Jake is absolutely right about sawing and sharpening being 2 different deals. I got into sharpening because I am so frugal (some say cheap)  I do sharpen for others on a small scale to earn fishing money..........I also enjoy nitpicky work........Say your prayers 

[Magicman]

I use WM Resharp because when I am not sawing I value my time off more than the money spent on resharpening blades.  But as I stated in the posted link; It is a personal decision that each of us make for our own various reasons.

[Deese]

What brand of bands does EZ Boardwalk sell?

http://timberwolfblades.com/

Let me go ahead and tell y'all that this forum is not only one of the most resourceful places on the web, but the people seem to be 100% genuine as well...

Many, many thanks new companions---I appreciate you and will join in the efforts to assist others once I gain experience of my own...lord help me  :D

[Migal]

I really like that last line I live by it daily 
lord help me
Mine is a bit different and my grandfather said it all the time
"The Good Lord Willing and The Creek Don't Rise"
From the full moon the other night I'm thinking we are still 10-15 days from getting any rain to amount in my area so I don't imagine the Creek is rising any time soon here.
P.S. He liked to say that when we cut hay and left it air dry for three day's But it still sticks with Me so Remember the Little one's don't forget anything

[dboyt]

Check around for a local shop to do the work.  It could save a lot of shipping.  Other sawmills in your area might be able to point you in the right direction.  Most sawyers are glad to give information and opinions, as long as it doesn't involve revealing who their customers are!  Your state Forest Products Association may be able to give you some leads.  By the way, just about any blade manufacture will cut blades to whatever length you need.  To complicate things, consider having some blades with a 4 degree hook angle for the harder woods.

[ladylake]

Again.    If your going to saw a lot get a sharpener, I make more money per hour sharpening than I do sawing plus very little expense sharpening, plus you don't run dull blades which means better blade life.  Steve

[Bibbyman]

Again.    If your going to saw a lot get a sharpener, I make more money per hour sharpening than I do sawing plus very little expense sharpening, plus you don't run dull blades which means better blade life.  Steve

I can make far more money saving than I can sharpening.   It's always "grinding" (pardon the pun) on my mind while I'm sharpening blades.   But if you have some time when you can't be sawing for some reason,  then I feel I've saved money by sharpening our own blades.  Money making? No. Money saving?  Maybe. 

[ladylake]

I make about $60 a hour sharpening, sawing can be more or less depending on what I'm sawing.  Also while I'm waiting for the sharpener to go around I do other things like chainsaw maintance, sharpening .etc.  I cut hard wood most times and can dull a blade up in 2 hours so 4 to 6 blades a day would cost a lot to send out.   Steve

[NMFP]

I have found,sharpening tends to make a far better return for the investment than does sawing but yet, I am doing both.  400 bands a month is alot when you think about it but, there are some weekends that it is not un comon for me to run 70-80 bands through in a 10 hour day.  I find this as a better money making adventure than sawing, especially when I am dealing with shakey hemlock, windthrown pine, twisted red oak  and whatever else I find that I end up sawing for people.

Done get me wrong, sawing is where I love to be but when it comes to the bottom dollar, sharpening is where my true "business" income comes from.

My advice as a new sawyer, master sawing first and determine if sawing is correct for you and if so, how much time do you have to sharpen?  Some, none or a lot.  Business changes and evolves over time so what you do today, may not be what you do in the future.

Take Bibbys advice, send them out and master sawing first.  You wont regret it.