Completed my DANG/Deadheader log loader. works pretty good.

shadpeters · July 13, 2016, 08:51:40 PM

So, A few weeks back I posted requesting information about grapple forwarding trailers, and the Dang/deadheader log loader was mentioned. After doing some research I decided that it would be a much more practical solution to my problem since I don't go after high volumes of logs, but usually go after some pretty big chunks. Anyway, started working on mine a couple weeks ago. I tracked down a mile marker 10500 pound hydraulic winch for 500 bucks, hooked it up to front of the trailer and I'm running it off of a gas powered hydraulic power pack that I use for the loader arms on my mill. the arch itselt is made from from 3/16" walled rectangle tubing, 2x3, and 2x4 mostly, with a couple narrower pieces for the corner braces.

I took a hybrid approach to mine, I wanted my arch mounted forward of the rear of the trailer by a couple feet like deadheaders to avoid having logs crashing down, but I also wanted to be able to remove the arch easily like the dang version so that I can maintain use of the trailer for other things. my solution was to mount a couple of heavy 1" pins on the side of the trailer, and then cut the tubing to fit over them, all I have to do is set the arch on, and then put a couple hitch pins in to hold it in place, take out the pins and it slides right off. easy peezy.

My first iteration was made from tubing and channel that I had lying around, i was trying to go the cheap route, but it ended up being much to light weight, and would torque and twist under a load- it was actually pretty terrifying lol. So I went out and bought some fresh steel for it. the first run gave me a chance to rehone my stick welding chops though, so the second arch came out way better, and thats what is photographed here. even with the new steel I think I had less that 1000 dollars in the whole thing. I picked up a nice 20000# snatch block at tractor supply for 38 bucks, had to grab a few chain hooks, and hydraulic fittings, maybe a few other odds and ends but really I didnt have to buy to much to make it work.

I loaded my first 4 logs in the last couple days, three were good sized chunks of cherry, and one big piece of elm. the biggest piece measured 42 inches across the wide side, it was a bit of bear getting it up there. I started out using log tongs to grab them and pull them up to the trailer, I quickly found out why everyone seems to be wrapping a chain around the log instead, there were times when gettting the tongs to bite and stay tight was considerably more time consuming than actually loading the logs. I'm still learning the best way to work this system, but I'll get there.

Things I have learned so far:

-longer logs I think may actually be easier to load than shorter ones, provided they are not to large for the winch to handle.

- chains are better than log tongs

- My trailer sits much higher than most, i did a spring over conversion which raised the deck height 6-8 inches, it makes unloading pallets and logs way easier since the tires are out of the way, but makes the loader work harder to get the logs to deck height. Jacking up the front end of the trailer helps a bit in getting back in lower.

- I mounted my winch to a reese hitch style receiver in case I ever want to use it on my truck. I think this system will work, but probably needs beefed up a bit, there were a couple times when I could see it flexing a bit.

- changing the orientation of the chain around the logs is a tremendous help for getting the logs situated on the trailer.

- moving the snatch block from one side to the other does not always mean the log will go to that side, sometimes they have a mind of their own. I'm gonna have to learn a new type "log reading"

-limby sections are best pulled onto the trailer from the but end, less crap to snag, found that out the hard way on the big section today. Common sense, but I just wasn't thinking.

-don't let the arch even get close to 12 o' clock, even if its not all the way vertical it can still come crasshing down if things are just right, and its not fun when it does.

thats all I can think of at the moment, I'm sure I'll be learning a lot more in time to come. Here are some photos of my little loader.

had my grandpa stand in on this one for size reference.

Chuck White · July 13, 2016, 09:00:11 PM

Nice build! ;)

WV Sawmiller · July 13, 2016, 09:01:31 PM

Shad,

Looks good. I hope it works well for you and am sure it will. I'd say be careful around it handling such big logs. Easy to get hurt bad and quick.

Please update your profile with more details about your location and equipment (so we know who to ask questions, borrow stuff from, or come visit at meal times when we're passing by your area :D).

shadpeters · July 13, 2016, 09:05:09 PM

Quote from: WV Sawmiller on July 13, 2016, 09:01:31 PM
Shad,

Looks good. I hope it works well for you and am sure it will. I'd say be careful around it handling such big logs. Easy to get hurt bad and quick.

Please update your profile with more details about your location and equipment (so we know who to ask questions, borrow stuff from, or come visit at meal times when we're passing by your area :D).

profile updated!

I try to work slow and methodically with this stuff, I took me a good chunk of the afternoon today to get those three cherry logs on the trailer, but I'd rather go slow and carefully, than to make any big mistakes. I don't get close to it when there is tension on the arch.

I'm hoping to acquire a big skid steer soon to make handling some of these a little less problematic once I get them home.

Magicman · July 13, 2016, 09:10:43 PM

Very nice build shadpeters and Welcome to the Forestry Forum.

Kbeitz · July 13, 2016, 09:25:32 PM

I know what you mean about the arch crashing down.
I put stop chains for both directions to stop the arch.

shadpeters · July 13, 2016, 09:37:25 PM

Quote from: Kbeitz on July 13, 2016, 09:25:32 PM
I know what you mean about the arch crashing down.
I put stop chains for both directions to stop the arch.

I had thought I would use the chains that were already mounted on the trailer for the gates to serve that purpose, but as soon as I had an instance where the gate dropped back with some momentum it popped those chaines like they werenet even there. I plan to mount some heavier chains soon to take care of that issu.

Kbeitz · July 14, 2016, 02:00:26 AM

I later added two old car hood springs inline with the chains.
It helped a little.

thecfarm · July 14, 2016, 07:47:54 AM

Looks good. Make sure you chock the trailer tires. and the truck front front tires. We last a member when the trailer raised the rear of his truck and it slid back onto him. :( Don't want to gloom and doom ya. Just want you to know. Those bigs ones can change things quick!!!!

fishfighter · July 14, 2016, 08:44:34 AM

Nice build. Been looking at trailers to build what you have. The only way I can get some SYP logs is to travel about 50 miles unless my tree guy has a job to fell some. :(

One improvement, were your pins are sticking out, I would spray paint them suckers RED. For some reason, things like that just love to hook you. :D

Magicman · July 14, 2016, 09:06:02 AM

Then how are you going to distinguish the red paint from blood?? ??? :D

shadpeters · July 14, 2016, 09:43:32 AM

Quote from: thecfarm on July 14, 2016, 07:47:54 AM
Looks good. Make sure you chock the trailer tires. and the truck front front tires. We last a member when the trailer raised the rear of his truck and it slid back onto him. :( Don't want to gloom and doom ya. Just want you to know. Those bigs ones can change things quick!!!!

I have been keeping the parking brakes on, but chocks would be a good addition, thanks for the heads up.

Chop Shop · July 14, 2016, 11:17:47 AM

If your truck is 4X4 put it in 4 wheel drive when loading.

It will lock the front and rear axles together. That way the park pin and parking brake will also stop the front tires from rolling, not just the rears.

Magicman · July 14, 2016, 11:43:49 AM

Chocking the truck, etc. is not good enough! The much better option is to install outriggers on each side of the rear of the trailer. That places the load on the outriggers and not lifting up on the rear of the truck or the hitch.

Tom the Sawyer · July 14, 2016, 11:47:02 AM

Setting parking brakes and chocking wheels are good ideas anytime but won't help with the danger associated with loading big logs from the rear of a trailer. The axle of chocked wheels will still act as a pivot when the trailer frame acts as a lever (like a teeter-totter) and will lift the front of the trailer, and rear of the tow vehicle if it is connected. Add supports under the rear corners of the trailer, like trailer jacks, to prevent the trailer from tipping or moving.

Happy Birthday MM, you must have clicked Post just before I did.

Magicman · July 14, 2016, 11:49:50 AM

As thecfarm mentioned above, the FF lost a member in such an accident just a few years ago.

red · July 14, 2016, 01:48:01 PM

Always know the weight of the logs you are moving . Always be extra careful. Always expect the unexpected. Work safe .

DanG · July 14, 2016, 02:40:16 PM

That's a great looking arch, Shad. I like the way you mounted it to the trailer. I tried it with the snatch block at first, but abandoned that in favor of hooking the winch to the arch along with a drop chain to the log. This prevented the crashing forward phenomenon and the travel of the arch provides plenty of lift. I had that same kind of winch, and I extended the control wire by splicing in a 25ft orange extension cord. It is exactly the same wire, and it made life a lot easier by letting me control the winch from just about anywhere.

I know we lost Mark to an unfortunate accident, but in honesty he broke several basic safety rules that caused the mishap. Any one of those rules would have allowed him to get away with all of the rest of them. :'( Sometimes it is ok to break one rule as long as you replace it with some other preventive measure and remain aware of the potential danger. For instance, sometimes when on level ground with no other obstacles, I would leave my truck free to roll rather than dragging the log forward, as there was less strain on the equipment that way. As long as one end of the log was on the ground, it couldn't roll very far and I kept a large chock handy to stop it if necessary. I always positioned myself well to the side when pulling to be out of the line of fire if anything broke. I once broke a snatch block when snaking a big log out of the woods and found pieces of it 200ft away! That's another good reason to extend your control cable. ;) Y'all be safe out there!!

Kbeitz · July 14, 2016, 07:22:28 PM

When I bought my tractor and loaded it on my trailer to bring it home
the trailer truck and all came to the tractor as I drove it on.
I did not stop untill it was all the way on. If i would have stopped the
trailer would have keep rolling. The back of the truck was 2 feet in the air.
To much tractor for the size of the truck.

Magicman · July 14, 2016, 08:00:03 PM

Quote from: Tom the Sawyer on July 14, 2016, 11:47:02 AMHappy Birthday MM, you must have clicked Post just before I did.

:D I saw that Tom and chuckled. Funny thing is that we both said the exact same thing, just in a different way. Loading a trailer without outriggers is asking for trouble. :-\

thecfarm · July 14, 2016, 08:45:12 PM

All I had on the rear of my trailer was a piece of pipe with a piece of channel iron welded on the bottom,on each corner The pipe had holes,with a pin, in it so I could adjust it to how much it was off the ground. I unloaded and loaded a 40 hp tractor 3-4 days a week. I trigged the trailer wheels and never had a problem. Now I would block the front tires too. I did not know better than.

shadpeters · July 14, 2016, 09:14:34 PM

Quote from: Kbeitz on July 14, 2016, 07:22:28 PM
When I bought my tractor and loaded it on my trailer to bring it home
the trailer truck and all came to the tractor as I drove it on.
I did not stop untill it was all the way on. If i would have stopped the
trailer would have keep rolling. The back of the truck was 2 feet in the air.
To much tractor for the size of the truck.

thats a nice little kubota hoe you've got there! what model is that? how much lift is it good for? I have been looking at getting either a backhoe or a descent sized skid steer, but most hoes seem to run 15K plus, and I don't have the means to tow something like that. whats the kubota weigh in at?

Magicman · July 14, 2016, 09:20:59 PM

That is all that you needed Ray. Just something to transfer the weight to the ground and keep the back of the trailer from lifting the tongue up.

DanG · July 15, 2016, 01:32:26 AM

All you need it a chunk of wood under the back of the trailer. ;)

Kbeitz · July 15, 2016, 04:02:44 AM

Quote from: shadpeters on July 14, 2016, 09:14:34 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on July 14, 2016, 07:22:28 PM
When I bought my tractor and loaded it on my trailer to bring it home
the trailer truck and all came to the tractor as I drove it on.
I did not stop untill it was all the way on. If i would have stopped the
trailer would have keep rolling. The back of the truck was 2 feet in the air.
To much tractor for the size of the truck.

thats a nice little kubota hoe you've got there! what model is that? how much lift is it good for? I have been looking at getting either a backhoe or a descent sized skid steer, but most hoes seem to run 15K plus, and I don't have the means to tow something like that. whats the kubota weigh in at?

33 Hp Model L3410
Weight of tractor only 3000lbs
Weight of hoe 840lbs.
Weight of tooth bar 86 lbs
Weight of front end loader 1300lbs
lift capacity 1951 lbs