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Cabinet door hardware installation

Started by Jeff, November 07, 2004, 03:42:09 PM

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Jeff

After almost a year, we decided on what knobs and pulls to put on. When cabinet makers install hardware, is there a simple jig they use for locating the holes, or do ya have to do it the tedious way of measuring out every one?
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Fla._Deadheader

  Make a template. What style ya gonna use ???
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Jeff

The drawers are betting pulls, 2 holes on 3 inch centers, the doors are getting matching knobs, one holers.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Ianab

Cardboard template would be quick and easy?
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

Fla._Deadheader

All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

SasquatchMan

make a simple jig with a piece of plywood with holes where you want them.  You can get the holes positioned, relative to the corner of the doors (assuming all doors will look okay/work okay with pulls in same spots).  Just glue and nail another strip of plywood to the 2 bottom sides of the original piece of ply, T-style, and that way you'd have a jig to pop onto the corner of a door, drill holes and go.  For the other door (left/right), turn the template over.  

Can't draw the thing, but what you want is a piece of ply with holes for the pulls, which you can just jam against the corner of any particular cabinet door.

Also, it's tempting to drill "just big enough" but usually the pulls have a large tolerance, so pick a bit that gives you a little room, just in case 3" turns out to be 3.005"!
Senior Member?  That's funny.

Jeff

Ok, I think I got the picture on the plywood jig, 2 pieces joined in an l shape, with another peice fitting in to its corner.

I drew this up for the doors. Is this what you had in mind? I have to do it 23 times for the doors and 12 for the drawers so it seems like it should be wood.



Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Kevin


Jeff

I dont think I can make much of a template for the drawers. They are all different widths and depths.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

karl

for doors we do just what you have drawn.
on drawers we have used a jig with one lip to set on top of the drawer front-usually the width of the narrowest drawer(s)and the holes drilled so they are centered. For wider drawers it is easy and quick to center the jig by measureing each side of jig to drawer edge. (3" wider drawer=1.5" each side)
For different height fronts drill same jig with holes for the different hights - do all of one height then tape over the holes in jig that you don't need so you don't forget which level your on when drilling taller drawers.

Wish I could draw it- hope it's clear.
"I ask for wisdom and strength, Not to be superior to my brothers, but to be able to fight my greatest enemy, myself"  - from Ojibwa Prayer.

Jeff

Another question. My hickory drawer fronts are attached by screws to maple boxes. So, the fronts doubled to an inch and a half thick. Should I remove the fronts and attach the knobs, or get longer screws and drill all the way through?
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Kevin

That's where the old 45ACP comes in handy.
The holes are so large you just have to be close and not real exact. :D

SasquatchMan

Jeff, your drawing is exactly what I meant, without respect to hole position, which is of course determined by your cabinets.

Drawers a guy just measures - as you say, they're all different anyhow.

I'd get longer screws for the drawers and go right through - some knobs actually come with clippable long screws.  This way, you're directly pulling on the drawer case, rather than pulling on the front which pulls on the case.  Very small difference, really.  Do what seems handy.  
Senior Member?  That's funny.

Jeff

I think I better get longer screws, otherwise, I will have to countersink the heads, and then I figure, if a knob comes loose, I'll have to take the drawer front off again in order to just tighten a knob. :-/
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

SasquatchMan

Yup. :)  Good luck.   If the doors aren't perfectly lined up, you can cheat opposing handles to make things look a bit straighter, too.  Be a bit judicious in applying this though.
Senior Member?  That's funny.

etat

It really ain't no problem to counter sink the heads would be my opinion.  I know I'm odd man out but that's what I'd do rather than getting longer screws.  Just go ahead and drill the regular hole all the way through and then get one of them flat spade bits for wood, they come in sets and are real handy for drilling in wood anyways. They've already got a point sticking out in the middle of them that'll follow the hole. Pick one that's a size or two larger than the head of your screw. Be careful, drill slow,  and drill in  a enough  so yer screw will reach.  If ya want you can take a piece of tape and wrap around the bit so you'll know exactly how far you're drilling in. I've done it bunches of times when screwing or bolting something together.  Then if ya ever do have to replace it you just stick yer screwdriver down in that hole and screw it out.  I always put just a bit of lock-tite, not the red kind the blue kind, or a bit of silicone or something  on the end of the screw so it won't be working loose later.
Old Age and Treachery will outperform Youth and Inexperence. The thing is, getting older is starting to be painful.

sandmar

Jeff,
I had my own cabinet shop for about 11 years....your jig is exactly what we used....of course we had quite a variety of styles and sizes. Gotta go with cktate and countersink those drawer holes. No new long screws to buy and only takes a couple of minutes to do a bunch of drawers. For what its worth......... ;)
Sandmar

ScottAR

I'd drill em too.  About a 3/8" bit or so is usually about right.

Drill slow on the first one till you get it to the right depth. then mark the bit like someone already said.

If ya have any oddball drawers the drill won't fit in, Most pulls take either an 8/32 or 10/32 machine screw.   HTH
Scott
"There is much that I need to do, even more that I want to do, and even less that I can do."
[Magicman]

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