Moving Logs While on the Mill

[DR Buck]

 ???  

Wondering how to move logs up and down the length of the mill after they are up on the bed?   I had some large diameter 8 and 10 foot logs today that didn't reach  both of the taper rollers so I couldn't raise it and push to get it centered in the clamps.   Finally got it done with a large pry bar..   Anyone have ideas or techniques to do this easier?

I was thinking something like a come-along hooked to the end of the mill bed and dragging the log which ever way it needs to move to get it centered.

Any better ideas? ???

[Tom]

I usually use a 2x6 (2x4 sometimes) placed under the log and levered on the side of the mill.   That gives the leverage to lift the log (usually) and if you row like rowing a boat , you can inch the log ahead.  Somebody pushing on the log helps too.

[Minnesota_boy]

I use the pry bar is there is something handy to pry against.  When nothing is handy I use a come-along, sometimes with a chain or cable choker on the log when the come-along won't quite reach.

[EZ]

The come along is how I use to do it, work pretty good kinda slow going but easier than prying. Now I use the winch.
EZ

[beav]

Often I will roll it back out on the loading arms,cocked a bit(the log,not me),cock it the other way,roll it back onto the bed,etc, untill good. ;D

[Bibbyman]

When we get a log on the mill that needs shifting,  we'll generally turn it to get the face up that needs sawn first,  then use a 6' pry bar to lever it up while someone puts a block under the log. (Make the toe adjustment the 'old fashion' manual way.)  Then we saw that face.  We turn and do the same thing on the next face.   Then turn again.  Now we have a flat down on the bed and a flat against the back supports.  Now we raise the roller toe board that's under the log and use the pry bar to lift and shift it forward or back onto all four bed blocks.

Another tip,

We always try to saw from the little end of the log to the butt end.  So when we are sawing 8' logs,  we try to make sure they are going to be well forward and hang over the front toe board.  This is the one most likely to be used to level the log.  Many times,  the butt flair will fall between the third and forth bed block and the log won't need leveling.

Once the two flats are made, as described above,  it's easy to use the roller toe board and slide it back to hit all four bed blocks.

The short answer is,  we seldom shift logs on the mill until they have flats on them.  We also try to position 8' logs so the little end will surely be over a toe board.

[Kirk_Allen]

I resently had this problem in AR.  We had a monster Red Oak (40" diameter) that ended up being forward of the aft roller.  We couldnt turn the log becasue we had to much of it up front to get it to turn.   It just wanted to lift and roll to one side off the mill.

These are the steps I took to get it pushed back.
1. I raised the front roller lifting the log a few inches off the deck.
2. I used a strap to tie back the log rolling hook.  (Its spring loaded)
3. I raised the dogs all the way to the vertical position.
4. Clamped the log tight against the dogs.
5. You must ensure the swivel portion of the claim is in a position that wil allow it to spin during the next step.  If its flat against the log you can damage the clamp.
6. Relieve just a TINY bit of clamp pressure.
7. Lower the dogs half way.

When you lower the dogs the pressure against them from the log forced the log to get pushed towards the back of the mill.  

It took us several goes at it but we finally got it over the back roller.  We tried pry bars but I think we bit off more than we could chew on this one.  

I dont think this would have worked if we had the old standard WM dogs without the rollers.  It is the rollers that grap the log and help to move it.

Good luck

[DanG]

I just pick it up with the Hootie-mobile, and move it to where it needs to be. ;D

[Percy]

When Im cutting the big fat shorties(8 footers), I have painted marks on the log deck so who ever(Warren usually) can center them properly with the loader before they are lifted onto the mill. 10 or 15 miniutes of log wrestling can really put a crimp in production. ;D

[woodmills1]

Before I got the log loader, I had a lot of success with the roll them off and roll them back on method mentioned above.  Sometimes just pushing the longest end back to the loader arms will be all thats needed with gravity doing the rest.