Wedges

[JBS 181]

  I am pretty green to this sawmilling so that is why I am asking questions. My headsaw, carriage, mill is all old alot of it is in good shape as far as I can tell, maybe I am not looking in the right spot. When I am cutting 16' 2x6's and I sqare my cant up, it is sometimes 1/4 narrower at end of cut. I have measured from head blocks over to saw blade. guides are new and in place, saw is sharp etc. Am I missing some other spots I should look. Like I said it does not always cut a wedge and you do not notice it when cutting 8' cants probably because of the short lengths. I take a cut on one side the turn 180. Iam in hopes that this will relieve stress. Is this a correct method. Does my blade need hammered? All I have been cutting is lodgepole pine. Most of this wood is strait and few knots.

[Bill_G]

You should get a copy of The Sawmill Handbook, It could be one of several problems or a combination. To start with all parts of your mill, tracks, carriage, knees, headblocks,mandrel,etc. have to be level, plumb and square. Your saw needs to be hammered for the rpms your running. Your shanks and teeth need to be right. Your feedrate needs to be considered. Do you have worn or sloppy parts? The list goes on and on. And when everything is correct you still get logs that do not saw well, tension in wood etc. Best to start at the begining and check everything and correct any problems. Alot of sawyers will compensate for issues with filing and lead, but thats not a good solution. Hope this helps some.

[Tom]

I'm afraid an answer will require some more information.  I've looked at your profile and all of your other posts and can't find what you are using to saw the logs.   Sawing problems will have all kinds of different answers depending on the type of saw and even the manufacturer.  There are even concerns as to the species of wood being sawed, the sizes of the logs, the type of teeth on the blade, and a bunch of other stuff.

While it sounds like a circle saw, are you using a bandsaw, a swing saw, a circle saw, it makes a big difference, and a difference in whose attention you get here too.

[Chico]

As Bill G and  Tom said it could be many things from what you said I would guess maybe slack in a block Try this Pull the blocks back away from the saw set forward to your first cut Don't move the blocks in any directions but forward If you miss it do it again Now measure the cant is it straight If so now move the cant forward across the sawline and move it back to your starting point once again Do not move it in any other direction Measure is it st. If not there's a good chance you have some slack somewhere in the blocks If all that measures out  You may have too much or too little lead in the saw depending on whether the cants are full or scant at the back I check lead a little diff than some folks But Try this pull the first blk up to the area right behind y\the ring on the insert Mark this tooth  Rotate the saw 180 degrees measure the same spot on the saw and the block. I myself start with 1/16 " lead most start with and 1/8 but it all depends on your mill the way you file your saw the guides just a myriad of things . Try these and see if they help. But as Tom said we really need more specifics on rig I'm sure someone om here will help you get it right These ideas I gave you are just a few to start with
Chico

[bandmiller2]

JBS,everything said already is true and could cause that problem.Usally if your headsaw runs true when up to speed the tension is at least close,if its snakey and rattles between the saw guides chances are it needs tensioning.You must eliminate causes one at a time first I'd have a good sawsmith check the tension and check shanks and file or replace the bits.If I had to guess I'd say loose setworks and too much leed.Put a heavy log on the carriage don't cut it but roll it along the ways with an accurate level on the knees.If the bubble runs off anywhere shim or replace offending support.Frank C.

[cheyenne]

If your running a circular mill you can check everything with a dial indicator with a magnetic base. Just attach it to the blade and run down the ways and you'll have your answer. And I don't mean with the mill running. ....Cheyenne

[Sawyerfortyish]

When you check your lead in the saw make sure the saw guide is not touching the blade on either side

[JBS 181]

 Thanks for the help. I will try what was suggested and see what happens.