Cautions to take with 90cc saws?

[Skeans1]

In his videos, Jerry holds the rear handle with his right hand and pulls with his left. This is with an 066. It's sort of like drop starting, but the bar is usually on a log or something.

This is how I was taught to start the larger saws or if there's no log tip on ground but the same motion it works great the weight helps you start the saw.

[Skeans1]

I don't see any point in John Q Public drop starting a big saw unless there is no place to set it on the ground and stick the toe end of your boot in the handle.  What do you save, a second or two ?

A long bar say a 60" or so I don't want to lift it anymore then I have they will kill a back fast. Think of the start with them as more of a rowing motion where one hand is going forward with the saw well the other has the rope pulling back.

[ZeroJunk]

I don't see any point in John Q Public drop starting a big saw unless there is no place to set it on the ground and stick the toe end of your boot in the handle.  What do you save, a second or two ?

A long bar say a 60" or so I don't want to lift it anymore then I have they will kill a back fast. Think of the start with them as more of a rowing motion where one hand is going forward with the saw well the other has the rope pulling back.

I'm sure pros have reasons and the skill. But, I have seen customers do some jerking and yanking that makes me cringe.

[charles mann]

not a pro by any means, but my dad felled timber for 10 yrs as source of income, he used an 066 with anywhere from a 20" to a 42" and even those old bow bars, and he drop started every time. so as i got old enough to run a saw, i drop started and been doing ever since, and never a kick back, not even on the saws my dad removed the brakes on. iv been bumped 2x in 15 yrs of running a saw, luckily, the saw was in spool down and my steel toed justins slowed it down enough to only scratch the top of my foot. the sec time, during spool down, it caught my pants, tore the material and nicked my knee cap, nearly the same place my dad got cut, but his, both times, went to bone. My 2 and my dad's 2 incidents were both caused by a dang green stick, no bigger than writing pencil. NOW, running an old husq 372, 3yr old jonesred 2166 (husq 372 but cheaper) and my 661, I'm glad i listened to my dad and some old timers, and left the brakes on, bc green briars or yopauns (spelling check) have kicked them back on me, and the brake engaged, allowing me to still have both my legs and feet. I will NEVER run a saw without a brake. 

I have had the saws yank my knuckles into the recoil housing, skinning them up, but not yet, have they kicked back during a drop start. 

As to the OP, as others have said, TAKE YOUR TIME, plan your cuts and ALWAYS have a good footing and stance before bringing the engine up to cutting speed and setting your dawgs into the tree. those big saw, even my 20 yr old 372 have enough tq to throw you off balance, and if it lands on you, good chance it will be a hospital visit, or a trip to the morgue.   

[gspren]

Mr Mann, sounds like a good set of chainsaw chaps would have saved your dad and you some blood.

[charles mann]

Mr Mann, sounds like a good set of chainsaw chaps would have saved your dad and you some blood.

Oh, it would have. But poor folks couldnt afford them. 

[John Mc]

Mr Mann, sounds like a good set of chainsaw chaps would have saved your dad and you some blood.

Oh, it would have. But poor folks couldnt afford them.

I consider chaps & helmet just another cost of owning a chainsaw, like chains and fuel. They are easier to afford than the ER bill and the time off work.

[charles mann]

Mr Mann, sounds like a good set of chainsaw chaps would have saved your dad and you some blood.

Oh, it would have. But poor folks couldnt afford them.

I consider chaps & helmet just another cost of owning a chainsaw, like chains and fuel. They are easier to afford than the ER bill and the time off work.

you are correct sir, a LOT cheaper than an er visit and better than a trip to the morgue. but back in the 80s, we didn't go to a human dr, we went to a vet, it was cheaper and the meds were the same. depending the injury, self treatment or call a friend was what we, well, i should say my dad, since i was 7-8 yrs old, did. with both his knee cuts, he spent $25 for stitches and antibiotics and took 1 day off after getting cut and went back the next day. single parent life didn't leave much room for safety in his eyes, food in my belly, cloths on my back and a roof over my head was his #1 priority, everything else came sec, or not at all. 
i know i should use chaps and don't use them, not that i can't afford them, but I'm just stupid and asking for an injury. when i was milling with my alaskan mill, i really thought about buying them, especially since my upper legs and lower torso was within striking range/level of the chain. i definitely don't wear a skid lid at hm bc I'm not required to wear it. we are mandated by osha and our company safety policies to wear them at work now, and i don't how many times iv knocked my noggin bc i had it on. but, as a supervisor, i have to lead by example and wear the dang thing. plus my paycheck wouldn't be what it is if i didn't wear it. 

[alan gage]

The new (to me) 661 showed up on Wednesday and the new bars and chain showed up yesterday. Gassed her up, slapped the 42" bar on it and went to town cutting half a dozen cookies off a 40" pine. Pretty impressive saw. I'm happy with it so far. It's definitely not something I'd want to lug around all day but for intermittent use I think it will be fine. The 28" bar should handle a little better. Sure does fill up your pockets with sawdust in a hurry.

Alan

[Pulphook]

Saw for your age Alan. If ( and only if  :D) I were 40 the 661 or other big boy saw would be in the kit along with the 42 or 60 inchers.
Got to be aware of where your body is.....we learned long ago to use situational awareness. Not a hill to die on.
The MS261 con 16" does all I need.....and it is still fun.

[alan gage]

The MS261 con 16" does all I need.....and it is still fun.

No doubt it's like most things: the more you know the less you need.

Used the 661 and 42" bar to rip this 40-42" pine down the center. Sorry, in progress or after pics.



Went pretty well. It was certainly work but not bad. Tried a plunge cut just for fun and it's certainly different with the long bar. Takes more pressure to make the nose bite in instead of just climbing up the bark. Both halves have been cut up on the sawmill and the lumber and slabs are stickered and drying. Some really nice looking 25" slabs if they behave themselves while drying.

Looking forward to putting the 28" bar on and cutting some regular sized wood. The 20" bar I put on the Echo 680 sure feels better than the 24" did.

Alan

[krustysurfer]

I ran a big saw like that. Than I grab on to a 50cc one and think it's a toy.   But it's not.

(personal story here) on the last job- going from 372xp to a Echo 2511t- it was ridiculous! two close calls on the first day- knicked a boot first day with what is definitely not a toy saw!and i don't think i have ever done that (53 here) every time i pick up that little tiger i have to remind myself to be extra extra careful............ blessings and aloha to you

[Lorenzo]

In some ways I feel safer with a large saw, because it demands a bit more respect. You tend to be more cautious using, you have to worry about your footing an correct stance etc, just because of the weight and length of the thing.  You have to plan where you are cutting, and heft the saw into place etc. You can't just wave it around like a Jedi lightsaber.  :D

Longer bar means you have pay more attention to where the bar tip is. Make sure you don't go right through the log you are working, and contact something on the other side, that might create a kickback.

Also, it's heavier work, you get tired quicker, and that's when you make mistakes.

Lots of good advice there.  :laugh:

[HolmenTree]

In some ways I feel safer with a large saw, because it demands a bit more respect. You tend to be more cautious using, you have to worry about your footing an correct stance etc, just because of the weight and length of the thing.  You have to plan where you are cutting, and heft the saw into place etc. You can't just wave it around like a Jedi lightsaber.  :D

Longer bar means you have pay more attention to where the bar tip is. Make sure you don't go right through the log you are working, and contact something on the other side, that might create a kickback.

Also, it's heavier work, you get tired quicker, and that's when you make mistakes.

Lots of good advice there.  :laugh:

Yes Ian couldn't have said it any better.
Last fall I had a close call with my 066 -28". Don't use that saw alot as I run mostly my other 066 -20" light bar or a 562xp-18".
Was in a rush as I had to drop a poplar alongside a sidewalk as school kids were  about to get out of school.
I was just swinging the 066- 28" around after making my facecut to start back chaining the back cut.
Chain snagged the outside of  my lower left leg. Cut right into the kevlar padding stopping at about the last couple layers. Not a scratch on my leg but scared me good.

I quickly came to realize spending $350 on a good quality pair of Pfanner saw pants was a good decision.


 

 

[sawguy21]

You were fortunate. It's all too easy to get complacent with a saw, I have scared myself more than once.

[HolmenTree]

You were fortunate. It's all too easy to get complacent with a saw, I have scared myself

This incidence also proved how important wrap around padding on the lower leg is.

Front pad only protection would not have prevented my leg from getting cut.