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Stihl saw not oiling bar

Started by gleevo, November 18, 2018, 06:54:55 PM

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gleevo

Have a MS170 as a backup saw, only cut maybe 3 cord. Couple years old, so not under warranty. Never had any issues previously. Oil isn't flinging off the bar like it previously did, and is pooling/flinging under the sprocket cover and dripping out on the ground. Bar was overheating and started smoking.

The oil is weeping out fine with the bar and chain off, the bar has been cleaned and blown out with compressed air, the oil holes are clear and line up with where the oil comes out, I've flipped the bar over to try the other oil holes. Swapped the chain in case the drink links were wore too much and not carrying the oil (didn't think this was the problem). Checked bar studs were flush with surrounding housing so bar is tight to it, all good. I also did clean out/flush the tank with mixed fuel and ran it through until it came out of the bar lube hole.

Any suggestions? Can't seem to find anything online with the same issue.

dougand3

If you've done all that and....bar is definitely against inner bar plate and oil hole lines up. Got to be passage into the bar rail slot is at least partially clogged. Outside chance - worm gear is worn and only intermittently spinning the oil piston.
And these bars have a tiny oil hole - some drill them bigger.
Husky: 372xt, 272xp, 61, 55 (x3)...Poulan: 315, 4218 (x3), 2375, 2150, 2055, 2000 (x3)...Stihl 011AVT...Homelite XL...Saws come in broken, get fixed or parted, find new homes

sprucebunny

Use winter oil. That's the only thing that helped my MS180s w/ same oiler.
MS193, MS192 and an 026  Weeding and Thinning. Gilbert Champion sawmill

Pulphook

All above and try blowing air into the oil tank. It may clear any blockage. Use very thinned oil about 1/4 full. Vacuum nozzle taped to the tank.
No guarantees. The 170 oil flow is pretty low.
I like the idea to drill out the hole....nice.
Two wood stoves ( Jotul Rangely ,Jotul Oslo ) heating 99 44/100%
24/7. No central heat. 6-8 cords firewood from the woodlot /year. Low low tech: ATV with trailer, 3 saws, 2 electric splitters, a worn pulphook, peavy, climbing line for skidding, Fiskars 27, an old back getting older.

lxskllr

I've been using canola oil in my saws, and I like the way it flows in cooler weather. The price at walmart is nice also; ~$6/gallon. Might be worth a try.

Pulphook

Quote from: lxskllr on November 19, 2018, 07:05:27 PM
I've been using canola oil in my saws, and I like the way it flows in cooler weather. The price at walmart is nice also; ~$6/gallon. Might be worth a try.
Hey, why not use Laphroaig ? Canola oil ? :o
Regular chain oil is supposed to have some kind of 'sticky' additive to bond with the chain. But canola must smell nice. ::)
Two wood stoves ( Jotul Rangely ,Jotul Oslo ) heating 99 44/100%
24/7. No central heat. 6-8 cords firewood from the woodlot /year. Low low tech: ATV with trailer, 3 saws, 2 electric splitters, a worn pulphook, peavy, climbing line for skidding, Fiskars 27, an old back getting older.

lxskllr

Laphroaig would make a spendy lubricant, but it would keep everything loose  :^D

The canola seems to work ok without the tackifiers, but I'm not putting the saws through professional duty either. I use bar oil in the summer, and canola in winter. Bar oil's irritating to use when it's cool. Doesn't pour nice, and you get snotty streamers coming off the mouth of the bottle.

DelawhereJoe

HolmenTree said he uses the canola oil in environmentally sensitive areas as its completely natural unlike regular bar oil, it will also cause less cancers over the dinosaur oil. I can't remember what he said its freezing point is but I think he said its freezes faster then regular bar oil also it will solidify unlike the dino bar oil.
WD-40, DUCT TAPE, 024, 026, 362c-m, 041, homelite xl, JD 2510

gleevo

Bar is definitely not clogged/obstructed, checked, cleaned and flipped over several times. The holes are very small and drilling larger ones could help, but I've never had this issue before so something else must be causing this.

Already using winter oil.

I don't think there is an oil flow problem as plenty is covering the inside of the sprocket cover and housing, then pooling out under the sprocket cover instead of getting on the bar and chain. 

Pulphook

Over the +/- 20 years here, empty Laphroaig bottles are used as trail markers on the 60a woodlot. Nobody gets lost ikskllr.
See, we're recycling and green.
But c'mon now, canola oil for chains ? I mix diesel with regular chain oil for winter; also smells nice. ;D
Get some used dental picks from your dentist . They are strong and great for clearing out those tiny holes for oil, clogged crevices on the saw, and on the bar.
Two wood stoves ( Jotul Rangely ,Jotul Oslo ) heating 99 44/100%
24/7. No central heat. 6-8 cords firewood from the woodlot /year. Low low tech: ATV with trailer, 3 saws, 2 electric splitters, a worn pulphook, peavy, climbing line for skidding, Fiskars 27, an old back getting older.

lxskllr

Canola has history of industrial use...

"Its use in Northern Europe for oil lamps is documented to the 13th century.[2] Its use was limited until the development of steam power, when machinists found rapeseed oil clung to water- and steam-washed metal surfaces better than other lubricants.[citation needed] World War II caused high demand for the oil as a lubricant for the rapidly increasing number of steam engines in naval and merchant ships.[citation needed] When the war blocked European and Asian sources of rapeseed oil, a critical shortage developed, and Canada began to expand its limited rapeseed production."

Canola oil - Wikipedia

If it's good enough for the Navy, it's good enough for me  :^P

We'll see how it goes. I have a good idea what kind of bar/chain wear to expect using regular bar oil. If it gets worse using canola, then I was wrong. Nothing money can't fix. So far, I'm pleased with the performance.

Al_Smith

I've never even seen a 170 Stihl .So therefore I have no idea how the oil pump is connected or what type it is .Now having said that on one occasion on a Sears and Roebuck which I assumed to be a Poulan I had a similar problem .Oiled great sitting on the ground not cutting .In the cut almost no oil .
Come to find out the bolts holding the engine to the suspension were stripped out allowing the engine to rock up and not make contact with the oil pump gears .Retapped the number 10 screws out to 1/4" and never had another problem .--next---

Al_Smith

I do have the IPL for an 017. I only assume it might be like a 170 .It shows a crankshaft driven oil pump from a worm gear on the crank .Similar in design with a 335 Husqvarna .Just a shaft with a flat on it to move the oil .The pump shaft gear  might be worn out or the worm or the shaft itself .I might add that is one strange design for a chainsaw .
Before you do much of anything run a partial tank of diesel fuel through the oiling system .It might have something lodged in it .The old diesel fuel flush has cleared up a lot of them of all makes over the years .Nothing to lose except  a dimes worth of diesel fuel . 

Fishnuts2

I had a Stihl 180 that would not oil the bar regardless of what I used for oil.  The only way it would pump oil was if I held it sideways and unscrewed the oil cap.  So I got another duckbill tank vent and drilled a small hole in the top of the oil tank for it and it cured the problem.

These small saws don't throw much oil as it is in my opinion.  Stihl is the only one that brags about how little oil they put on a bar.  Maybe that is a good thing, but sometimes it can be a headache.

lxskllr

Yea, my 362 isn't slinging any oil for sure. I have the oiler turned all the way up, and best I get is a light glisten when I go to sharpen the chain. My Poulan OTOH does everything it can to eject the oil as fast as possible. The bar's wet after cutting. My echo seems to work best. Nicely oiled, and not wasteful to my eye. Maybe Stihl's got it right with the light oiling. I'm not qualified to judge. I don't cut enough to make a good assessment.

HolmenTree

On the subject of canola oil I used it alot when I had a crew. But now working solo I don't run a saw enough hours in a day to bother using it anymore.

It does take alot more heat then petroleum bar oil, reason why alot of carvers use it with their hard nose dime tip carving bars. Alot less wear.

And like I said before tacktifiers only stick to a cold chain, heat that chain up cutting and that tacktified bar oil slings off just as much as canola.

Canola will freeze near solid at -5 below F if left sit outside overnight.
But keeping it in the garage or the cab of the pickup will keep it fluid.
Saw's crankcase heat keeps it fluid too.
Tougher surface film on hot metal then petroleum oil. Cheaper and cleaner for your lungs and environment.
Just don't let it sit in the saw during long storage and run petroleum bar oil to flush it out of the oil pump.
Clean it off the saw with WD40 also when putting the saw into storage.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

sawguy21

I had customers use canola oil for cutting ice blocks and large game. As Willard says, don't leave it in the saw during storage.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

DelawhereJoe

Have the bar rails opened up by chance, allowing the oil to bypass the chain ?
WD-40, DUCT TAPE, 024, 026, 362c-m, 041, homelite xl, JD 2510

Pulphook

Anyone use V.O.O. (virgin olive oil ) ?
Smells nice.
Two wood stoves ( Jotul Rangely ,Jotul Oslo ) heating 99 44/100%
24/7. No central heat. 6-8 cords firewood from the woodlot /year. Low low tech: ATV with trailer, 3 saws, 2 electric splitters, a worn pulphook, peavy, climbing line for skidding, Fiskars 27, an old back getting older.

HolmenTree

Quote from: Pulphook on November 22, 2018, 12:38:52 PM
Anyone use V.O.O. (virgin olive oil ) ?
Smells nice.
Pretty expensive oil just for enjoying smelling it. :D
Olive oil doesn't take heat as good as canola though.
I've cooked up stir fries in a hot pan and the olive oil will burn quicker then canola.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Al_Smith

I use peanut oil myself ,for frying not saws  ;D At nearly 5 bucks for 24 ounces it would be a little pricey for bar lube .

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