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Reefer Kiln Help Needed!

Started by JHEPP08, October 05, 2014, 08:53:57 PM

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JHEPP08

Hello everyone! Id like to start out and say im a newbie when it comes to kilns.  I recently acuired a really nice 53' reefer van trailer. i have 2 options so far with it (this is where i need your help!)

1. Build a partition wall in the trailer thinking about making enough room to have 1-2 carts with 10-12' long...
I have some fans to use for circulation but my biggest issue is heat source. Since im new i dont want to spend 6-10k starting out on a kiln unit.  Id really like to have a electric heat source but i have no clue what kind or type or size to use..  I would also put a dehumidifier unit in the trailer to drain water.

2nd option is to get a logosol sauna vt5 set up. They seem to work really good and if i can load 1000-1200 board feet and hopefully run lumber through it monthly i could do that an once i get things paid for id be glad to buy a NYLE.  I am currently operating off a small loan.

Little background information.. I have a woodmizer lt15 right now that ive been sawing with so im not a high production outfit but ive been working on gaining business.

Thanks in advance for all your help, this rookie needs all the help he can get!

Woodmizer LT15

ellmoe

Oh. now I understand... different reefer. I thought I was on the wrong forum! ;D
Thirty plus years in the sawmill/millwork business. A sore back and arthritic fingers to prove it!

JHEPP08

Haha that might be the answer to my question
Woodmizer LT15

thecfarm

Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

scsmith42

I have a Nyle kiln that is built from a shipping container.  Lot's of con's to doing what you are attempting to do, and a few pro's.

What species / thickness of lumber do you want to dry?  Are you planning to remove the wheelset from the reefer unit and set it down on the ground, or have it in the air?
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

JHEPP08

Yea I have it leveled an on railroad ties. I'd small starting out I'd like to some day have a nyle . Correct me if I'm wrong I'm trying to learn here, but if I have a good heat source keeping it in the 120 range along with good fans an dehumidifier that would work right? It wouldn't be as nice obviously as a nyle.

I have a lot of walnut so far but I'm planning on doing walnut pine an eventually some other species like cherry etc .

Thanks for the response I'm open to learn as much as possible. This website is really great
Woodmizer LT15

never finished

 I have a setup like what your talking about but I have only done pine in it. I really don't intend to do any thing but syp and erc in it. I'm using a central wood heater ducted into the box for heat and air movement. I also use a room dehumidifier. So far I've only done wood that was already air dried. I wanted to set the pitch and bring it on down to 7% or less, and done that in less than a week. I only built one fire in it a day. brought the box up to 150 to160 kept it there for 6 hours then let it go out. Kept the fan on the system going all the time. I don't know if that was the right way but it worked that time. Every board I tested was 7% or less. I built my partition at 17' so I could get two 8' stacks, or 1 longer stack in it at a time. I cut a 6' opening in the side of the trailer in front of the partition, and put the heater and fire wood in there. A lot of storage room left, or another kiln if I ever need it. I plan on setting it on something and building a cart, but then again, I'm Never Finished.       

JHEPP08

Still looking for help.. I have a 53' insulated trailer for my kiln. Starting up small but I was wondering what people use for LP heat an wood heat?

If I use wood heat... I have a wood furnace with a squirel cage blower deal on it. If I piped the heat into the chamber that'd work right?

Lp... I've looked at those garage heaters but I'm concerned on how much lp it'd burn.

Thanks in advance for any info
Woodmizer LT15

red oaks lumber

wood heat is the most economical method,ifyour duct work is well insulated going to your kiln/reefer you can make do.an upgrade would be using an outdoor wood boiler and using a heat exchanger in your kiln for heat ,very slick and easy to operate method.
the experts think i do things wrong
over 18 million b.f. processed and 7341 happy customers i disagree

scsmith42

jhepp08, there is a lot of information that I can share and questions that I can answer, but I don't have enough time right now to type it all out.  If you want, we can talk live one day or evening; just PM me your phone number and I'll respond with mine.

Scott
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

JHEPP08

Thank you everyone for all your great help! I think I have a rough idea of what I need to know! Thanks again you all are great!
Woodmizer LT15

never finished

 jheppo8, I got your message then lost it. I've been having major putre problems. But same as schmith42 send me your # and I'll give you a call.

scsmith42

Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

JHEPP08

Thanks for the tip sir, I messaged him.

Woodmizer LT15

JHEPP08

Still playing with my kiln setup.  Got a couple questions I wanted to throw out there..

1. I'm using wood heat..
  Is it better to have a wood furnance style heater, or would a simple wood stove in the chamber be enough?

A little back ground.. It's a trailer 8' wide by 16' long so it's nothing huge.

2. What kind of carts to you guys run in the trailer set up? Hard to find good pictures online

Thanks a million guys .
Woodmizer LT15

Ga_Boy

JHEPP08,

This information is based on a conventional kiln, which uses an external heat source like a water heater, boiler or outdoor wood furnace.  If you can develop a way to control the amount of heat given off by a wood stove this information would apply.  In a conventional kiln, you use the kiln drying schedules published by the USDA (forestry service).  These schedules give the drying cycle starting temperature for the moisture content of the lumber at the start of the drying cycle.

The science behind drying wood is controlling temperature and the relative humidity inside the kiln chamber.  At the start of the drying cycle the temperature is low around 110 degrees F, with a high relative humidity around 65%.  With green lumber the moisture content is upwards of 50-60%.  As the moisture in the wood drops, you lower the relative humidity and raise the temperature.  By lowering the relative humidity and raising the temperature you drive the moisture out of the lumber and into the atmosphere of the kiln chamber.

In a typical drying cycle, the atmosphere inside the kiln is monitored and heat is added to maintain the desired temperature and the air inside the kiln is exausted to bring in dry air when the relative humidity is too high.  When the relative humidity is too low, the misting system adds moisture.  The typical moisture lose per day is 1-2%.  If you remove more than this, you risk checking which could render the lumber unuseable.   By maintaining the temperature and relative humidity at the levels in the drying schedule you do not exceed the 1-2% moisture loss per day.

The key is to control the rate at which the moisture leaves the wood.  If you dry the wood too fast, you risk destroying the lumber; this is called checking.  It is indicated by splits and cracks on the face of the lumber.  By drying too slow, you risk mold growth which could render the lumber unusable.

I will stop here for this post to let you process this information and others to add their thoughts.

Regarding the carts, if you go to my picture gallery there are pictures of my carts, though not very detailed.  I'll do a drawing of how they were constructed. The carts I used are not my design, I copied from another forum member a few years back.

Let us know if you have anymore questions.





Mark


10 Acers in the Blue Ridge Mountains

scsmith42

Mark, it's great to see you posting!

Scott
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

Ga_Boy

Thanks Scott.

Have been following your work on here.  You did a nice job on those beams for the NOVA restaurant..

10 Acers in the Blue Ridge Mountains

Ga_Boy

Kiln cart drawing.  Let me know if you have questions.
10 Acers in the Blue Ridge Mountains

scsmith42

Quote from: Ga_Boy on October 24, 2014, 09:26:47 AM
Thanks Scott.

Have been following your work on here.  You did a nice job on those beams for the NOVA restaurant..

Thanks.  We ought to meet up there whenever I'm in town!
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

Ga_Boy

Sounds like a plan Scott.

Let me know the next time your are in NOVA.  We'll meet for lunch.
10 Acers in the Blue Ridge Mountains

scsmith42

Quote from: Ga_Boy on October 24, 2014, 08:13:08 PM
Sounds like a plan Scott.

Let me know the next time your are in NOVA.  We'll meet for lunch.

Will do!  It may be as soon as the first week in November...
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

Ga_Boy

If you are here the week of November 3-7, I am teaching a class.  Will not be able to get away for lunch.

If you can push you visit a week or so that would be better.

We're you able to open the word document that I posted?  Is is a cross section of a kiln cart.  If you were let me know if it makes sense or if I need to add more detail.



10 Acers in the Blue Ridge Mountains

NWP

I assume since this is posted in the firewood section, that is what you're drying in the kiln?

I made one and put the stove inside the container and I could load it from the outside. It worked ok. If you're drying firewood, it doesn't need the controlled temps like lumber does. I could dry 6 cords in 3 days if the outside temperature was over 40.
1999 Blockbuster 2222, 1997 Duratech HD10, 2021 Kubota SVL97-2, 2011 Case SV250, 2000 Case 1845C, 2004 Case 621D, John Deere 540A, 2011 Freightliner with Prentice 120C, 2012 Chevrolet, 1997 GMC bucket truck, several trailers, and Stihl saws.

scsmith42

Quote from: Ga_Boy on October 24, 2014, 08:46:36 PM
If you are here the week of November 3-7, I am teaching a class.  Will not be able to get away for lunch.

If you can push you visit a week or so that would be better.


My brother is visiting from Arizona the week of the 3-7, and we were thinking about a visit to Monticello and then heading up to check out the restaurant.  Looks like we will have to meet up on a future trip.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

JHEPP08

Thanks guys. I'll be drying lumber not firewood .
So I need to keep temp real constant? I can't just stoke it up an get the heat up over 100?
Woodmizer LT15

Ga_Boy

To dry lumber in a kiln you have to follow a schedule.  The schedule gives the temperature and relative humidity that you have to maintain.  You have to maintain the temperature and relative humidity to keep the lumber from loosing moisture to quickly.  You are limited to 1 to 2 % moisture loose per day.  If you exceed this you risk damaging your lumber to the point where it is not useable.

As the lumber dries, you increase the temperatrue and decrease the relative humidity level in the kiln.  Changes are made to the temperature and relative humidity based on the moisture content of the lumber you are drying.  As the mositure content in the lumber drops the kiln schedule tells you what to rise the temperature to and to what value you lower the relative humidity to.

When lumber is dried in a kiln, it dries from the outside to the interior of the lumber.  There are two types of water in the cell structure of a wood.  These types of water are loose and bound.  Loose water is just that, it is not attached to the cell structure of the wood.  The loose water is the first water to leave the wood cell during the drying process.  Bound water is chemically bound to the cellular structure of a molecule of wood.  To remove bound water from wood requires energy in the form of heat.  If the bound water is removed too quickly the structure of the wood is damaged; we call this checking.  Checking is visually seen in the form of cracks in the wood.

Now, remember that wood dries from the outside to the interior of the lumber.  By drying in this manner it creates a moisture gradient. If the moisture gradient becomes to great the interior of the lumber will not dry and this creates stress and renders the lumber unusable.  This is called case hardening.  Case hardening presents it's self as interior stress causing the lumber to bend when you cut it.

You may have seen case hardening or stress when you have ripped lumber on a table saw and seen the cut piece either bends in to the blade or away from the blade.

I'll post a picture of the kiln schedule for White Oak.  This will give you an idea of how lumber is dried.

See the pictures below.  Let me know if you have questions.





Mark


10 Acers in the Blue Ridge Mountains

Ga_Boy

Kiln Schedule Cover page.



White Oak Kiln Schedule

10 Acers in the Blue Ridge Mountains

Ga_Boy

More information on how the atmosphere of the kiln is controlled.

When drying wood, the heat source raises the kiln charge temperature up to the initial temperature (usually 110 degrees F).  Depending on the starting temperature of the lumber when it enters the kiln, bringing it up to the starting temperature takes about 24 hours.  As the lumber heats up it start giving off moisture, which raises the relative humidity. 

The kiln schedule for the type of lumber you are drying will give you the temperature and relative humidity initial presets.  You program the initial presets in to your kiln controller and it monitors the kiln environment.  When heat is needed, the controller sends a signal to your heat source to add heat.  When the temperature is too high, the controller sends a signal to the exaust fan to dump the excess heat.  When the relative humidity is too low the controller sends a signal to the misting system to add humidity.  When the relative humidity is to high, the controller sends a signal to the exaust fan to dump the excess humidity.  When the exaust fan drums excess heat or humidity fresh air is drawn in to the kiln through a fresh air intake louver. 

The controller monitors the kiln environment and makes adjustments as necessary to maintain the programmed set points which are stated in the drying schedule.   As the moisture content in the lumber decreases, you raise the temperature and lower the relative humidity values programmed in your controller.  Changing the temperature and relative humidity values is easy, most controllers use the Partlow 1160 series control module.  There is an up value button and down value button on the Parlow control module.  To increase the programmed value you hold the up value button until you reach the desired value and press the down value button to decrease programmed value.

From my experience drying lumber is 90% science and 10% art.  After you have ran a few lumber charges through your kiln you will get a feel for how to get the best performance from your configuration (this is the 10% art).  As long as you follow the kiln schedules for the species and thickens of lumber you are drying, you basically monitor the controller and check your kiln samples each day to determine moisture content. 

I will discuss how to determine and check kiln sample moisture content in a day or so. 

In the mean time if you have specific questions, let us know. 



Mark







10 Acers in the Blue Ridge Mountains

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

This is an excerpt from a talk I gave at the Great Lakes Kiln Drying Association two weeks ago.  Note the improved white oak schedule at the end.  It is a brief discussion, so questions are welcome.

One note that might help with the previous posting is that "loose" water is usually called free water.  It takes about 1000 Btu to evaporate a pound of free water and maybe 30 more for bound water.  During drying, both free and bound water are being evaporated at the same time.  Also, the moisture gradient will be the largest when drying first begins...the first five days about...and this is when surface checks are created.  Be very careful in the initial drying, and then you will not have surface checks or honeycomb.

Regarding casehardening, it is virtually impossible to prevent casehardening.  Casehardening is more accurately called residual drying stress, as it has nothing to do with hardness.  In air drying, the high humidity every morning relieves the stress.  Similarly for a solar kiln without auxiliary heat.  If not relieved, then we need to steam the lumber briefly at the end of the kiln cycle...or use vapor spray.

Here is the talk--
Basically, there are two main areas that must be examined:
   - - environmental conditions that inhibit or slow drying
   - - lumber characteristics that inhibit or lengthen drying



ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS

There are three environmental variables that control the rate and quality of drying.  They are
      *  temperature
      *  relative humidity (RH), sometimes expressed as wet-bulb depression or EMC
      *  velocity of the air flowing past the lumber

The drying rate is controlled by precise control and manipulation of the three critical variables.  The key is the word "precise."  Often, for best quality, temperatures must be controlled to within ½ degree F; humidities within 1% RH, and velocities within 50 fpm.

Temperature
As the temperature in a dryer increases, the drying rate increases.  Further, hot air holds more moisture than cooler air, so drying is usually more uniform throughout the dryer.  Hotter temperatures, however, do mean that the wood is weaker; therefore, hotter temperatures mean more risk of checks and splits, as well as more risk of warp.  On the other hand, when stickering is perfect, the hotter wood will be held flat by the sticker more easily than cooler wood (that is, the stickers bend the wood flat).  Conversely, poor stickering means more warp.  Hotter temperatures usually mean lower RHs and a greater risk of over-drying, which aggravates warp and machining problems.

Relative Humidity
Lower RHs mean faster drying, more uniform drying throughout the pile, flatter lumber, and brighter lumber.  However, lower RHs can mean a higher risk of checks and splits and more risk of over-drying and subsequently excessive warp and machining problems.

The relative humidity is an expression of the amount of moisture in air compared to the maximum amount that it can hold at the same temperature.  Relative humidity is important in drying--at any given moisture content, the drying rate of the wood can be expressed as

      Rate = coefficient x (100 - RH)

What this expression means that if initially the RH is 80%, but then is lowered to 60%, the lumber will dry twice as fast.  That is, at 80%, the rate is [coefficient x 20]; at 60%, the rate is [coefficient x 40].  The coefficient in this equation is a constant at a given MC, temperature, and velocity.  As the wood dries, the coefficient gets smaller (that is, drying rate slows); as the temperature increases the coefficient increases; and as the velocity increases, the coefficient increases.  The coefficient also is dependent on species and thickness of the lumber.

Relative humidity is not measured directly, but is determined by measuring the wet-bulb temperature and then the RH value is looked-up in an RH table of wet-bulb and dry-bulb temperatures.  (Wet-bulb thermometer is a regular thermometer with a wet muslin wick on the thermometer; the wick is kept wet with distilled water.  Brisk air velocity across the wick produces cooling, compared to the dry-bulb temperature.)  This RH table was initially formulated over 75 years ago.

Because of the occasional problem with supplying water to the wet-bulb thermometer, in supplying adequate air flow, and in keeping the wick clean, some drying control systems use a cellulose wafer as the humidity sensor.  The cellulose gains and losses water in response to changes in RH.  The electrical resistance of the wafer is related to RH or, more commonly, to EMC (equilibrium moisture content) of the air.  EMC can be related directly to shrinkage, which in turn is closely related to stresses, which in turn is related to several types of degrade, including checks, splits, and some warp.  Hence, EMC can be a useful expression for indicating the moisture content of the air in a dryer.

As might be expected, the RH (and the EMC) of air increases as the air moves through the load of lumber.  (In contrast, the wet-bulb temperature is uniform throughout the pile.  Although this may seem strange, it is indeed true, in an air path that does not go across heating coils or does not have outside air (hot or cold) introduced in the airstream.)  Because the RH increases as the air moves through the pile of drying lumber, the drying rate slows through the pile.  Likewise, as the EMC increases through the pile, the risk of stress related degrade falls.  Generally, the RH or EMC of the entering air is measured and controlled, as the entering air conditions are the most severe.  However, we are beginning to see some operating scenarios using the change in RH or EMC through the load as a control variable as well.

Air Velocity
When lumber is quite wet, the major resistance to drying is how fast the air can scrub the water molecules off the surface and how fast heat can be supplied to evaporate moisture.  (The process is controlled by the boundary layer.)  As a result, changes in velocity result in direct changes in drying rate--higher velocities mean faster drying.

However, as the lumber becomes quite dry (under 20% MC), the major resistance to drying is the speed with which the molecules can move from the interior of the wood to the surface.  Hence, the velocity of the air through the pile (or the boundary layer) has very little effect on drying.

At intermediate MCs, the boundary layer and internal diffusion will be of nearly equal magnitude, so both are very influential.

Higher velocities also mean more uniform drying throughout the pile.

An important concept in air flow, is the volume of air going into the load is equal to the amount coming out.  There cannot be a build up of air within the pile.  Therefore, air velocity is usually measured on the exit side of the pile, as it is very easy to do so, but it is hard to measure velocity accurately on the entering air side.  One problem that must be considered, however, in measuring air flow in this manner is that there is a tendency for the air to move upward as the air moves horizontally through the piles.  Hence the exit air side may show higher velocities near the roof than near the floor, but this pattern may not exist on the entering air side of the load.  Nevertheless, this upward trend does exist and does indicate the need for horizontal baffles in the space between adjacent packs, especially in track kilns when drying green lumber.  (Recall green lumber is more influenced by velocity than is partly dried.)


Effects of temperature, relative humidity, and velocity on drying
______________________________________________________________
Role of Temperature.  When the temperature rises,

a) lumber dries faster, which in turn means brighter, flatter lumber with more risk of checking
   b) lumber dries more uniformly throughout the kiln
   c) lumber develops darker (usually browner) colors
   d) lumber is weaker and therefore lumber is more prone to checking and splitting
e) lumber is weaker and therefore lumber is more prone to warping unless stacking is precise
   f) insects and fungi are less active above 100 F and are killed above 130 degrees F


Role of Relative Humidity.  When the humidity drops,
a) lumber dries faster, which in turn means brighter, flatter lumber with more risk of checking
   b) lumber dries more uniformly throughout the kiln
   c) lumber develops lighter colors
   d) lumber is stronger and therefore less prone to warping
   e) lumber is stronger and therefore less prone to checking and splitting


Role of Velocity.  When the velocity is increased,
a) above 40% MC, lumber dries faster, which in turn means brighter, flatter lumber with more risk of checking
   b) below 20% MC, velocity has very little effect on the drying rate
   c) lumber dries more uniformly throughout the kiln
______________________________________________________________


LUMBER CHARACTERISTICS

Rate.  The following wood characteristics and features affect the rate of drying:
Slower drying         Faster Drying
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Heartwood            Sapwood

Quartersawn         Flatsawn
Thicker            Thinner
Face or edge grain      End grain
Flat grain            Knots

High density wood       Low density wood
Bacterially infected      Not infected
—————————————————————————

Heartwood / Sapwood.  The effect can vary from just a few percent slower drying for heartwood to over 30% slower with a wood like white oak.

Quartersawn / Flatsawn.   The ray cells help moisture move in the radial direction, so flatsawn will often dry faster.   The difference for many species of hardwoods is that heartwood will dry 15% more slowly; for softwoods, the difference is less.

Thick / Thin.  As a general rule, doubling the lumber's thickness increases the drying time by 2.5 times.  As a rough approximation, each 1/16" thicker (1-3/167" versus 1-1/8") means 9% longer drying time.

Bacterially Infected.  When a tree is heavily infected with the wetwood bacteria, there will be an increased initial MC.  For example, red oak will be 100% MC instead of 75% MC.  Further, bacterially infected wood dries more slowly.  So, there is more water and the slower drying with heavily infected wood.

Moisture Content.  The following characteristics affects the length of drying; that is, two very important factors in drying time are the incoming MC of the lumber and the final required MC.  In almost all cases, it is the few wettest pieces of lumber that determine the drying time, not the average MC.  That is, the kilns runs until the wettest pieces are dry enough.  Implied in this discussion is the selection of the wettest piece and then the accurate measurement of the wettest piece's MC.

Example:  A load of 4/4 oak that has been air-dried is put into the 50 MBF capacity kiln.  The wettest lumber (from the lower layers of the bottom pack of lumber, more recently stacked for air drying, and located in the center of the air drying yard) is 35.0% MC.  The drying rate is 2.5% MC loss per day.  The total estimated drying time for this load is 14.0 days.  However, with better air drying,  If the wettest piece of lumber were only 30% , the drying time could be reduced by two days.  This time savings is worth about $50 per MBF or a savings of $2500 for the kiln load.  The annual production from the kiln would increase from 26 loads a year to 30 loads a year or 200 MBF more.


PRACTICAL STEPS AND PROCEDURES

Kiln Schedule
Here is a kiln schedule for 4/4 and 5/4 white oak producing the highest quality, but the extra time  required, the schedule could be considered  too long.  The basic question is "Is production or quality is more important."

In general, and probably in almost all cases, accelerating the kiln schedule is not wise, as the  risk of quality loss increases.  However, as the original kiln schedules were developed with some conservativeness, a little tweaking is possible, mainly in the humidity level    and when the humidity is lowered.


--------------------------------------4/4 + 5/4 WHITE OAK -----------------------------------
Sample MC      Dry-Bulb   Wet-Bulb     EMC         
       (%)              (F)      (F)    (%)      
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
   Over 40%         105     101       17.5            
   40% - 35%         110     105       16.2            
   35% - 30%         110     102       13.3              
   30% - 25%         120     106       10.0            
   25% - 20%         130      95      5.0            
   20% - 15%         140     105          5.0            
   15% -  end         160     125          5.0         

  Equalization       NONE
  Conditioning (stress relief) as required       
————————————————————————————————————


Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

WDH

Drying 8/4 quartersawn white oak is Slowwwwwwwwww.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

5quarter

WDH...Yes, but you'll make it up in sales.  ;)
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
Blue Harbor Refinishing

WDH

That quartersawn 8/4 stuff just got much more valuable. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

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