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C5d steering pins and bushings how do you get them out?

Started by logman81, June 05, 2013, 08:52:50 AM

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logman81

Ok I have decided to replace the the pins and bushings on ends of the steering cylinder. My question is how to get the bolt out of the front pin? There doesn't seem to be a way to get a wrench on the bottom nut to remove the bolt. And how do you get the old bushing out by a press?
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Mark K

On my C7D there was a hole on the outside of the frame. Put a socket and a long extension to reach the nut. If I remember correct we pressed our old ones out and new ones in. Used a hone to get the final fit.
Husky 372's-385's,576, 2100
Treefarmer C7D
Franklin 405
Belsaw m-14 sawmill

240b

Isn't there an oval plate under the step?  remove plate insert arm to elbow an blindly mess with nut until hydraulic fluid is run down to your arm pit. thats my experience, no seriously.  The old bushing will most likey fall out. if the new one is easy to press in red lock tite might help, if you can push it in by hand- probably time for a rebush or line bore.  A good session with the steam cleaner would be a good thing before you start in case you need to use a torch also

logman81

Thanks guys no oval plate, I wound up taking the floor pan off a blindly with a wrench found the nut. Not easy to do but was able to get the bolt out. Found that the self aligning bushing is in ok shape but going to replace it any way, I can't get it out by hand so it will need to be pressed out that's a good thing! The problem is the pin and the ears on the frame. Frame holes are about five mm larger then the pin and a little out of round by about two mm. Thinking I might clean it real good take measurements and try those expanding pins. Has any one used them? Seems like the solution to my problem.
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240b

I saw them used on e 528 cat I was around, seemed like an ok solution for an older machine.

logman81

Yes I think so but the holes in the frame ears are a little oblong and bured a little so not sure if they will work, may have to get them line bored if they can even be done that way.
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240b

It will be cheaper to cut the old "ears" out, have a machine shop make up new ones, and hire a welder to put them in..

bushmechanic

Yes they can be line bored and that's the best way to do it. Another option is a weldment. You will have to torch cut out the hole and weld in the new weldment,it's a more crude method but it works well if done right (not too sloppy of a cut with the torch). Timberjack used too sell them for their machines but I'm not sure about Tree Farmer/Franklin, you may need a machine shop to fabricate one for you.   

logman81

Ok thanks, I found a local guy that does the line boring I'll give him a call and get a price.
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logman81

So I called the number and the guy told me he got out of the business, but has done it hundreds of times just my luck! So now I'm on the hunt to try and fined a guy that does it that is close to my area? Trying to keep the cost to a minimum by finding one close to my area. Not easy!
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logman81

Do you think a heavy duty plasma cutter with a steady hand could cut out the holes for new weld in bushings? I think the plasma would be a smother cut and be more accurate. Probly cheaper then line boring and faster.
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mad murdock

Quote from: logman81 on June 10, 2013, 12:18:00 PM
Do you think a heavy duty plasma cutter with a steady hand could cut out the holes for new weld in bushings? I think the plasma would be a smother cut and be more accurate. Probly cheaper then line boring and faster.
that is quite a subjective question.  It depends on the ability of the operator, and the plasma machine in question.  I think it would be a bit difficult to get 2 pieces exactly the same, unless you fashioned a jig with which to cut them out. 
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

logman81

Yeah guess your right probly just going to have to keep searching for a line borer. Thinking out loud!
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logman81

I talked to a friend of mine that had a grapple line bored by Milton cat. Very expensive! He figures around $ 1500+ ouch! So I'm putting it back together and running it for a bit and decide what to do with it. It need other repairs besides that will cost more than what the machine is worth!
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mad murdock

How big of a "fork" is the fitting?  You could make one off the machine, that way you could have it drilled and reamed to fit the new pin off the machine, then tack it in place on the machine and weld it.  Would not be that hard to do.  Rather than having it "line-bored".  Just thinking out loud.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

logman81

Can't do that, but what about using a magnetic drill press and a annular drill and bore the hole bigger for a Dom sleeve and weld the sleeves in for the new pins. I think it would work if I take my time a jig it up good.
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bushmechanic

 Does that machine have self aligning bushings or just inserts?

logman81

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logman81

I think that it could be done this way as it doesn't matter if your off by a few thousands the bushings self align any way. I just need to fined the new pins and bushings.
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mad murdock

sure sounds like it could work that way LM81.  Probably easier than any of the other methods discussed so far.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

logman81

Yup I think so, I'm going to give it a try. I got a price for the pins and bushings less than a hundred bucks. Most expensive thing is the annular cutter. Think I can do the whole project for around $400, a lot cheaper then boring!
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logman81

order the new pins and bushings today, should have them next week some time. :) Also went and bought a bunch of high strength degreaser, not going anywhere near it with a welder or anything that makes sparks until I get all the old dirt and old grease off :D 
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David-L

logman81,
Those magnetic drill presses can be tough to set up in tight spots. We used them in the Navy and were a tuff go. I still think torches and welmount kits are the way to approach this. Clean the pans of oil and have some fire protection on hand. The idea of making new ears sounds good too. Good luck.

                                                                   David-l
In two days from now, tomorrow will be yesterday.

logman81

I here what your saying David-L, I'm going to fabricate and weld platforms on the ears for the drill to sit on. It is not all that cramped on my machine pretty easy to get to. I'm all going to re pin all the linkage's while I'm in there to good time to do it. Yes cleaning the pans is a must, learned my lesson on my last skidder I had! I see your selling your timber jack.
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thecfarm

Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

logman81

Thanks ill post some pics once I get started and during the process.
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logman81

Got to the power washing part this morning, what a mess! Must have removed about 100 lbs of old grease and dirt from it. Now it's spotless. Now just waiting for the parts.
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David-L

logman81, good luck, I found a 1978 225 detroit power with the heavy axles and planetaries which were usually in the 230E and 350,380,etc. They must have ordered it that way from the factory I guess and by the looks I would say it has 3 to 5k original hrs. Love the duetz but this one still has the nubs on the peddles. Not cutting wood these days just getting ready to start my annual five thousand bales of square hay, that starts tomorrow. good luck with your project. Will be in Matunuck around the 5th for a few days,maybe hook up to see your skidder.

                             David
In two days from now, tomorrow will be yesterday.

logman81

Sounds good David-L, good luck with the new to you skidder. Tough to fined one that isn't beat and when you do fined one they usually what big bucks.
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logman81

Got the new pins and bushings today, now I have to fined the time to fix it.
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logman81

Just thought I'd share my progress with you. So far I have managed to get the front bracket for the cylinder out of the machine it was bolted in. This was a nice surprise because now I will have a much easier access for boring the holes perfectly. Also made up some weldments out of 2" DOM stock. Actually had to machine a little off the inside of the DOM to get the pins through them but nice tight fit now. All is going very well so far and with any luck it should be up and running this Thursday headed for its next job. Pics to follow!
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logman81

Success at last! Got the mag drill and annular cutter today and drill new holes. Does a real nice job! Next I will weld in the new weldments that I made and then I can reinstall the cylinder with new pins and it will be like brand new. Even repined the blade and steering controls no more play!
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mad murdock

It is always nice when. Plan comes together! Going to feel like new now 8)
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

logman81

Yes it will that is the idea. Fix a little at a time and before you know it everything will be fixed and be like a new machine. It's paid for and I own it so I might as well fix the old girl up and keep her.
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logman81

A happy ending at last! Skidder is all fixed and nice and tight. Now it can go on a new job for next week. Thanks for all your help guys!
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mad murdock

Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

logman81

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