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Gearmatic 19 Winch Problems

Started by Breithaupts, December 10, 2017, 02:57:21 PM

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Breithaupts

I am having trouble getting the inside brake band off (not the clutch side, the brake side). The small band had delaminated, and I want to reline both brake bands now. I got the small outside brake band off, but can't seem to get the larger inside brake band out.  Does the drum have to be pulled to get it out?  Anchor pins came out fine, and I was able to rotate the band so it could technically slide out, but no luck.  Any help appreciated.  Thank you, John

coxy

you don't take the drum off to get the bands out  did all the banding from the other band come out    you can take a sawsall with a long blade and go around the bottom of the band and winch housing its a tight fit but doable  some times they also get stuck on the ridge between the 2 bands   and remember if you get them relined from some one make shur they get the thickness right a few thousands to thick and the bands are junk been there done that   jmop but I would spend the extra money and get them after market

Ed_K

 Is the brake adjustment screw that goes down on top of the band from the out side of the winch (top of casting) loosened up or removed?
Ed K

coxy

 :D :D I forgot about that Ed I don't have them in mine so I always forget them  8)

Ed_K

 I'm bringing this old thread up as I had a problem the last few days with mine. When I moved the control lever to release the cable the cable would reel back in a little at a time. Between the intermittent winding I could pull the cable out some but it was real hard to pull.
 I thought the clutch bands were to tight. What I found was the lever arm part # (51626) was not releasing all the way back due to rust. As soon as I pried it back tight to the adjusting screw the cable would drop easily. The drum shaft may be bent some but not enough to bother replacing yet. Reason for the intermittent catching of the band. A little wd40 is helping this. But don't spray alot on it as you'll get oil on the band.
 I hope this helps someone else with cable release problems.
Ed K

coxy

ed we got a winch out of a junk yard one time and who ever had it before us drilled pin holes and put a good sized spring in there to help pull that clutch back I put never seize on mine one time never ever again it didn't work as I thought it would all the band dust stuck to it and what a mess I took a hone and made that hole in the spider a little bigger not much but was enough that I haven't had any issues with it in a long time my dad was always going to drill a few small holes in there to put grease fittings and every now and then just put a squirt in there 
  

Ed_K

 Thanks coxy, since I got sick I haven't used the skidder much. Starting to have problems just because it's not used every day. If I have problems again I'll try grinding it out a little.
Ed K

taurus

it helps to put a jack under the center shaft to center it.when you pull the side cover, the shaft will dropo just a bit and jam the brake band from coming out.
a screwjack that comes with any truck on an angle works well.. you will be able to do it with your eyes closed after a while... if i never see the inside of another gearmatic, i will die happy.. they are awesome and strong when working right but will raise your BP when they have issues.

coxy

if the bearing is tight on the r&p side you dont need to push up on the drum it will stay up by its self the gmatic winches are so easy to fix that they are imposable to fix  ??? ::) :D :D

Ed_K

 I'm at the point of putting a quick disconnect for the hose going to the clutch and welding hinges on the cover to open an close the cover ;D >:( :(.
Ed K

pdxh20

 :D If you don't go all through it and make it better than new, that might be a plan B...I did it the hard way, and I can report unlike everything on all the Gearmatic threads that even with only occasional use, it works like a champ every time. No condensation issues, no sticking bands, no funky hydraulic tube & bearings. Seriously cleaned, primed & painted every part (except the drum surfaces), never seize where appropriate, Parker live swivel to replace the OEM tube. 150' of new 5/8" wire and a proper wedge socket after the choker horns. New hydraulic lines and an 8-Ball knob on the lever.

 <br
'56 American crawler crane, Komatsu mini-ex, multiple Stihl saws, '75 IH S-8 cable skidder, 2000 F450 30' bucket truck, '95 Chev 4 x 4 2500 p/u, '05 Sprinter SHC 2500 van

62oliver

Hey pdxh20, does that Parker live swivel fit under the small cover as is?
Husqvarna 266, Case 90xt, JD310C, TJ240E, 02 Duramax

Ed_K

 Mine didn't,I had to drill a hole in the cover and use a 4" piece of threaded pipe to make it work. A hole in the cover isn't going to bother, there's plenty of places for moisture to get in and your going to cover the winch when not in use anyway.
Ed K

old-iron-habit

Quote from: Ed_K on April 12, 2019, 08:15:11 AM
Mine didn't,I had to drill a hole in the cover and use a 4" piece of threaded pipe to make it work. A hole in the cover isn't going to bother, there's plenty of places for moisture to get in and your going to cover the winch when not in use anyway.
We did this years ago on one and never had a leakage problem again with that winch. We also drill a hole at the bottom of the cove so any moisture can drain out. As stated moisture will find a way in. Letting it out only helps.

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