Circular blade identification.

[Sawmillpilot]

Everyone I called about my saw laughed with me as they told me I have a really pretty table top, or they said they would call me back & never did. My guess is she's gonna hang on the wall, & I will continue my search for such shanks. I have a million questions to ask, since there are no regular operating sawmills around the upper Midwest (Red River Valley).  It's too bad there are not sub folders to break down the search. My guess is most of the questions I have asked are already out there.

This is the greatest forum I have ever joined!!!

[Jeff]

The advanced search has all sorts of ways to break down a search. Use the search button on the menu bar.

[DMcCoy]

I have #3 bits I don't need, but no shanks. there are rules about selling which I will follow but without shanks the bits are not going to help you.

[snowshoveler]

I don't quite understand the numbering on the shanks of these saws.
Mine have a 7 stamped in them and I am using Simonds bits.
They were pretty easy for me to get.
I think bits can be had in different widths.
No idea about the shanks and the differences.
I do know that you can still buy the shanks from Simonds, on their website anyway.
There are single circle and double circle shanks and bits.
Yours (and mine) are single circle.
Regards Chris

[Ron Wenrich]

If you have something like a B 8 stamped on the shank, the B is the pattern of saw, the 8 is the gauge of the shank.  The pattern is the first number or letter. 

You can get different width of bits.  They go from 9/32-3/8 for the BDF pattern saws.  I always ran the 9/32. 

[dgdrls]

If you have something like a B 8 stamped on the shank, the B is the pattern of saw, the 8 is the gauge of the shank.  The pattern is the first number or letter. 

You can get different width of bits.  They go from 9/32-3/8 for the BDF pattern saws.  I always ran the 9/32.

Tom

You made me go to the research library, since I couldn't give a reliable answer off the top of my head.   :D

There are 2 types of saw and shank configurations on a circle saw.  One is called the single circle and the other is called a double circle.  It refers how the shank and tooth fit in the saw.  Single circle are designated by numbers and double circle are designated by letters. Single circles are recommended for softwoods and soft hardwoods.  Double circles are recommended for hardwoods.

The smaller numbers are used if you are running smaller logs.  These patterns are 2 1/2, 3, 3 1/2, and 4 1/2.  On letters, you have F, B & D.  These are the ones common today. 

On single circles, the shank and tooth fit in one single circle.  On a double circle, the shank fits in one circle, and the second circle holds the tooth behind the shank

Shanks are made from spring steel and they hold the shank and tooth in place.  Summer shanks and summer teeth will form a round gullet.  That works good for many cutting situations.

But, in winter, you need to slow the sawdust down in the gullet so it doesn't spill out over the sides.  A winter shank has a bulge where the shank meets the tooth.  This disrupts the round gullet and causes the sawdust to swirl in the gullet (so I'm told).

Standall bits do the same thing, but they have the bulge in the tooth.  When standalls are coupled with winter shanks, you then have a summer shank/tooth configuration with a much smaller gullet capacity, and defeats the purpose of using either the bits or shanks.

The letters and numbers also refer to the size of the shank.  Jeff uses an F style tooth, and has 50 teeth.  I use a B pattern with 46 teeth.  I have 1 1/2 times the gullet size in the B pattern than the F.  It helps me feed a little faster.  I also run bigger logs, and you need the added gullet capacity.

We had a discussion a few years ago about the term swage and the spelling.  Like Deadheader, I rarely swage, except to repair teeth.  I also hand file, and can put a little lead into the teeth if it is needed. 

We put no set in the circle saws.  Our set is basically the width of the saw tooth.  They are "V" shaped.  That gives the needed clearance to prevent rubbing of the saw.

Lead is where the front of the saw is a little more into the log then the back of the saw.  This prevents the eye from heating up, by the log running past it.  The eye of circle saws are thicker than the rim. 

I bought a disk of several sawmill books over at ebay a couple of months ago.  I believe I paid $6.  Its called the Sawmill Handbook Collection and contains Circular Sawmills & Their Efficient Operation; Uses for Sawdust, Shavings and Waste Chips; Electic Moisture Meters for Wood; Dry Kiln Operator's Manual; Drying Hardwood Lumber; and Air Drying of Lumber.  These are all older USFS Research Books.  Very worthwhile and useful for the money invested.

Ron,  I hope you don't mind me carrying over a quote by you  from February 06, 2003, 02:48:42 pm »  It certainly is an informative one

Dan

[snowshoveler]

I was having a bit of trouble sawing the last few logs I was at in the mill.
I tried a few different things but no change.
I did like the books say and I replaced the bits...no more problems.
Saws straight and fast.
I keep forgetting that the folks that wrote the books and manuals have sawn a bit more than me and might just know what the are talking about.
Regards Chris

[sparky]

Sawmillpilot,
If you are still looking for information, or parts, I suggest you call the Rice Blacksmith Shop in Rice, MN. They are the only saw shop that I know about in our area. You can reach them at (320) 393-2169. They carry a lot of parts and I have no complaint about there work, or cost, when they have hammered blades for me. Someone mentioned a Disston blade in this post and they are no longer supported. Rice has some inventory of Disston components. I operate a circular mill at the Dalton, MN steam show. Where in ND are you located?

Sparky