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Timberking 1600... toeboard question

Started by chinaberry, May 13, 2018, 03:58:49 PM

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chinaberry

Hi guys,

I have been lurking around here for some time... finally got around to registering.  I am fairly new to sawmilling, don't own one yet, but I'm getting close to making the big purchase.

Looking at both Woodmiser and Timberking.  I really like the TK1600, but I don't like that it doesn't come with hydraulic toe boards.  Timberking says that they aren't an option on the 1600. 

My question is:  if I crafted and installed roller toe boards and coupled those to hydraulic cylinders could I tie-into the mills hydraulics?  I assume this would require plumbing my hoses thru the energy chain?  Maybe getting TK to supply the valve?  Does anyone know, is there extra room in the energy chain to accommodate this?

They do sell the 1600 with 1 scissor type toe board as standard.  I feel like 2 hydraulic toe boards with rollers would be so much better.  I have a tractor with forks, and this wood help greatly in removing cants and stacks of cut wood from the deck.

Any help with this is welcome

Clay

york

Get the bigger mill and be done with it....
Albert

chinaberry

Yea, I would like to do that... but $11,000 more is, unfortunately, out of my budget.

DDW_OR

I have used agdirect.com for two attachments
First was a BrushHound 30EX, the second was an Arbro 400 stroke harvester
20% down and 3 to 5 years.

AgDirect - Equipment Financing
"let the machines do the work"

maderahardwoods

I didn't know the hydraulic tow boards were an option on the 1600.  The TK2000 is actually more of a $15,000 upgrade, price just went up.  

Chaser357

Love my 1600 and Timberking has been great with customer service.   They sent me a guide roller for nothing even when it was my fault for getting a flat spot on one.  That being said the toe board roller included with the 1600 is pretty much useless.  It's just a car jack.  With small logs you can get by with it but it won't even lift the end of a big log.  My jack handle broke the first few days I had the mill. 

I want to add hydraulic toe boards to mine too.  You wouldn't have to worry about running them through the energy chain.  They would not need to move with the head.  Might as well add a cylinder to the log clamp while your doing it.   That's on my to do list too.  The clamp needs to be a little longer also so you could stand up wide flitches and flip cants.   Every mill is gonna have little things that can be improved upon but I am very happy with my timberking.  Only thing I would do different next time is buy the 2000.

thecfarm

chinaberry,welcome to the forum.
What's the plan for the lumber?
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

chinaberry

Thanks for replying, DDW_OR... AgDirect - equipment financing... I'll check them out for financing.  Can't spend too much to scratch this bad sawmilling "itch " I have.

chinaberry

Thanks for replying to my post on the TK1600; Chaser.  I did call TK and ask them about the two directional clamp for the 1600, and they did say it could be added as an option. ( add $1700 ).

As far as adding the hydraulic toe boards, I thought that the hoses would need to be plumbed into the hydraulic motor and reservoir which is on the traveling head... necessitating the need to run in the energy chain.  Glad to hear that you are happy with your 1600 and with your service from Timberking.

Clay

chinaberry

Thanks, thecfarm, for your kind welcome to the board.  I am initially going to use the sawmill for personal use... more of a hobby.  I have 14 acres that I have to clear with some nice oaks and hickory's, and I hate to see them go to waste for just firewood.

I am going to build a 4 bay shed for my trucks, boat, and tractor.  Then a sawmill shed, shop, and solar kiln.  We'll see how it goes.  Still working full time.  

Clay

apm

Hi Chinaberry,

I recently got a 2004 model 1600 and have been modifying it. I added the chain turner and a two plane clamp. I bought the turner from Timberking and built the two plane clamp. Toe boards are next on my list. I also upgraded the log stops, changed to the newer flanged guide rollers and changed drive belts and other routine maintenance stuff. 

Chaser357 is correct, the hydraulic lines will not need to go into the energy chain. The original 3 spool valve on my mill has a power beyond port, making it easy to mount additional valves. I have a total of 9 spools on mine, now. Timberking can supply the extra valves, but they will also tell you that you may save money sourcing them yourself. 

Jimmy at Timberking has bent over backwards to help and has been a great resource. Parts have been readily available and have all shipped the same day ordered, other than the turner assembly. From my experience, so far, you won't have any worries with Timberking over either parts or service help. 

The 1600 is a great, solidly built mill. Modify it to suit yourself and I think you'll probably be very happy with it. 

Greg
Timberking 1600 now

chinaberry

This a such a great resource for us new guys... that was just what I needed to know, Greg.  Thank you.  Good to know Timberking is so service oriented and (willing to help).  Who should I get with at TK?  Anyone in particular in tech support I should talk with?

chinaberry

Just one more question for you 1600 owners ... and then I'll guit pestering you, for now.

Do you find it cumbersome or a problem not having a remote throttle control?

Thanks... in advance!

DPatton

Yes, a remote throttle would be a great help as the factory throttle location on the Kohler is not very user accessible most of the time. I find myself stepping up on the frame to reach it quite often. Hopefully I will install a remote throttle before I slip and fall doing this.  
TimberKing 1600, 30' gooseneck trailer, Chevy HD2500, Echo Chainsaw, 60" Logrite.

Work isn't so bad when you enjoy what your doing.
D & S Sawmill Services

1938farmall

i have a 1600 and made my own hydraulic jack toe board & have probably used it 6 times in 6 years.  it's easy to drop the head if you want to throttle up/down.
aka oldnorskie

DPatton

 I agree it's easy enough to drop the head although it's kind of slow and it doesn't work to drop the head if you already have your cut height established in you setworks. 
TimberKing 1600, 30' gooseneck trailer, Chevy HD2500, Echo Chainsaw, 60" Logrite.

Work isn't so bad when you enjoy what your doing.
D & S Sawmill Services

chinaberry

Thanks, guys for your insights on the TK1600.  I'm sure that after I operate it for some time, I will have a better feel for what feels right for me.

Reading the posts on sawmills, it seems that a lot of you really enjoy tinkering with your saws and making various modifications... part of the enjoyment, I think.

Clay

reswire

I know that price is a major issue when buying new, but there are mills available that might make you happy.  I'd check around for a used 2000 with the bigger motor, toe boards, bi-plane clamp, rugged backstops and other upgrades.  I've seen a few on the net, and the price was reasonable.  TK has been known to provide good service to used buyers as well, and it might be worth it to get the mill with all the features you need, now.  
Norwood LM 30, JD 5205, some Stihl saws, 15 goats, 10 chickens, 1 Chessie and a 2 Weiner dogs...


hersnsh#590

Chinaberry:  I discarded my manual toe board on my  used 1600 shortly after I got it.

  I simply use a stout 2X4 to lever off a rail to lift the log and place whatever thickness shim (precut) I need under the log on the bunk and dog the log down.  Not very sophisticated, but simple, and it works at either end of the mill. 

I believe a remote throttle is available from TK.  It's an electric solenoid, and runs a conductor thru the energy chain I believe.

Dale
TK 1600, small sugaring operation, a bench full of J'reds, a tired ford 1710, new to us JD 5065e, 2 Honda 4 whlrs, a Can-Am 580 on tracks, and a very understanding wife.

apm

I finished up the toeboards for my TK 1600. Thanks to forum member Larry for help and advice. I ended up using 3 x 6 hydraulic cylinders with a 1-1/4 rod.  The toe boards are set up similar to the two plane clamp and can be slid back and forth from 6-1/2 feet apart to 11-1/2 feet apart. The rollers are 1 inch below the bunks fully retracted and raise to 5 inches above fully extended. I used the mills onboard hydraulics by adding another valve stack from the power beyond port on the original 3 position valve. I added a total of 6 more valves to power the chain turner, two plane clamp and toe boards. 



 

 

 

 

 
Timberking 1600 now

pineywoods

 smiley_thumbsup slick smiley_thumbsup Only way to improve on that would be to power the rollers, but you really don't need that. You guys at TK see this ?
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Magicman

That two plane idea is "over the top" terrific!!  Not only can you dodge knots, you will also find that you can "nudge" a log forward or backwards with it.  smiley_thumbsup
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Outlaw

Amp, nice work there! Did you make your two plane clamp? Also did you have the manual chain turner and make it hydrolic? I'm in the planning stage for both of them and the toe boards down the road. Thanks
TK 1600, old logging equipment,  sthil chainsaws

apm

I made the two plane clamp from scratch. Larry and GAmountain man have posted lots of pictures and I used those to come up with the design. 

The chain turner was purchased from Timberking, complete. 
Timberking 1600 now

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