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Timberking 1600

Started by plourigan, May 31, 2009, 12:43:37 PM

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plourigan

I'm looking at purchasing a Timberking 1600 sawmill and would like to hear opinions on the unit, good or bad.

1938farmall

i was going to suggest you try the 'search' feature above for tk1600 but then remembered many of the acrimonious comments your exact question sparked in the past, so go there at your own risk.  i own a tk1600 with the log loader and like it mostly for its absolute simplicity and the hydraulic assist.  the log stops will bend if you roll gnarly logs against them & you have to be gentle with the energy chain.  best advice always given on this forum is to call the mfgr for customer names and go look at them in operation.  al
aka oldnorskie

ladylake

 The 2 biggest complaints I hear are weak log stop and guide wheel bearings that don't last. For the guide wheels I'd retrofit with some greasable ones from Cooks and for the log stop a little metal fabrication should help. I run a B20 that has taken a lot of abuse and it's held up good, sure like the simple easy to fix design with lots of over the counter parts.    Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

plourigan

1938farmall - Do you happen to know the Cooks items number for the blade bearings?

plourigan

Steve - What type of metal fab work did you have in mid for the log stops? Perhaps creating a T shape by adding a backer plate?

1938farmall

plourigan,  i have replaced the guide bearings a couple times due to using water on the blade cutting pine (gets past the seal).  cost less than $5 and mount on 1/2" bolt.  i did weld a 3/8"x1-1/2" flat bar on the side of the log stop and it solved the bending problem.  btw, try to get more than 20hp if possible.  al
aka oldnorskie

plourigan

Thanks Al - I'm looking at the 27hp engine. Also, I'm seeing a lot of variety on what to use as a lubricant, ranging from plain water, to water + soap to straight diesel fuel. Any suggestions? I'll be cutting a pine and oak primarily; however there will also be the need to cut hickory and other hardwoods from time to time. Thx, Pat

1938farmall

a cup of pine-sol in 5gal water for pine and hold a stick on the blade regularly to clean off pitch build-up.  i'm sure diesel would work better if you choose to go that way.  with that hp you can go to .028" set - that will help the most of all to make straight cuts.  i cut all the other species you mentioned without lube.  al
aka oldnorskie

SamB

Quote from: plourigan on May 31, 2009, 07:43:24 PM
1938farmall - Do you happen to know the Cooks items number for the blade bearings?
TK has come up with a greasable guide bearing if you're buying new it should come equipped with them, recently upgraded on my TK1220 part#1202008.

thecfarm

A lot of differant lubes can and are used. I use half diesel and half bar and chain oil. But this is used at a very slow drip.A drop every 3-4 seconds.Not a steady stream like I've seen when water is used.My lumber is used by me only and most is used for buildings,not for making furniture or flooring that will be finished.Some claim the lube I use could stain the lumber for finishing.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

plourigan


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