log splitter stalling

dugan978 · February 07, 2014, 01:07:46 PM

i have a old log splitter i got on CL for cheap. it was meant to run off a tractor. switched the hoses around and put a 8hp motor on it and a pump. the engine and pump came off another splitter and both were working fine before. i hooked everything up on the new splitter and when it starts it runs for a few seconds and then shuts down. almost like theres something blocking the flow. could it be the relief valve needs to be adjusted? please let me know thanks.

beenthere · February 07, 2014, 01:28:38 PM

Quoteand when it starts it runs for a few seconds and then shuts down.

Meaning the engine quits ? Sounds like hooked up wrong for oil to flow from the pump through the valve bank.
But need more description of the problem, and a bit more about your connections from the old rig to the new.

Welcome to the Forestry Forum.
We'll try to get you fixed up and splitting. 8)

pineywoods · February 07, 2014, 01:53:22 PM

Could be the inlet and outlet hoses on the valve switched. If not that, then probably wrong type of control valve, closed center. Need open center valve for motor driven system.

Magicman · February 07, 2014, 02:17:49 PM

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, dugan978.

Farmerjw · February 07, 2014, 05:17:12 PM

If it worked before, right now I don't think I could even turn over my log splitter let alone get it to run. So if you are in the single and below zero temps and your splitter isn't in a heated shop, fluids may just be to stiff.

Old Iron nut · February 07, 2014, 08:45:52 PM

If you have a modern motor with the automatic low oil level shutdown on it that may be the problem. I once had to diagnose a motor like that with the same problem. Turns out the owner was a bit on the cheap side and did not have enough oil in the motor. He had quite a few laughs and kidding from his buddies on that one! Cheers, Old Iron nut.

gspren · February 07, 2014, 09:06:32 PM

I think pineywoods has it nailed, closed center valve. If there is a plug looking thing on the valve body its possible to convert it to open center like you need with a motor driven pump. Lots of John Deere tractors use closed center hydraulics.

clww · February 08, 2014, 04:26:45 AM

I agree with the previous posts. Check the engine oil level and the hydraulic hose routing. If these are good to go, let it warm up quite a bit if it's cold out. I run my splitter ram through four complete cycles without any wood pieces, regardless of the outdoor temps, each time I use it. I would also check the fluid level in the hydraulic reservoir. If it is low, that may cause a stall, too.

Welcome to the Forestry Forum.

coxy · February 08, 2014, 06:37:23 AM

try a thinner oil I run atf in all mine never had any problems with them they start in the cold much better

r.man · February 08, 2014, 07:52:29 AM

Does it stop as if it was just turned off or as if the load snubbed it. The first could be an oil safety switch and the second could be valve incompatibility or reversed hoses.

gspren · February 08, 2014, 10:12:02 AM

Since the OP said it was originaly used on a tractor I am still thinking it's a closed center valve, many tractors used closed center hydraulics and the valve just wont work on an open center system without modification. If you can post some close up pics of the valve we can probably tell. It's often a simple hacksaw modification to convert the valve.

two-legged-sawmill · February 10, 2014, 01:53:25 PM

Welcome to the Forum, dugan978. I ran in to that problem back in 1954 when I was building a woodsplitter using scrounge-up parts. It done exactly what you described! Pineywood recognized the problem. It would be nice to hear what you find? Low engine oil wasn't being used yet. What part of the country do you Hail from? Dan sr

dugan978 · February 10, 2014, 04:45:30 PM

sorry guys been wicked busy and from saying the term "wicked" you can probably already tell im from good ole mass. this is the latest the engine will run for a few seconds then shut off. but when i go to start it again its really hard to turn over. like oil is stuck somewhere. i dont believe its low oil shutoff. the motor was running fine on other splitter. i have it going from tank to pump from pump to inlet on control. then from there bank to tank. then the two hoses for the back and front side of piston. i will try to get a picuture of my setup. thanks.

beenthere · February 10, 2014, 04:49:47 PM

Will the engine run fine without the pump connected to it? i.e. it won't "shut off".

dugan978 · February 10, 2014, 05:12:44 PM

i will have to try doing that. it starts up no problem. just once it starts pumping it makes a weird noise and cuts right off.

thecfarm · February 10, 2014, 05:20:18 PM

dugan978,welcome to the forum. Sounds like the guys are onto something here. The fluid has no place to go and it binds up and stalls out the motor.

dugan978 · February 10, 2014, 07:06:00 PM

It's pushing oil to controls but not out of controls. My theory is something is wrong in the controls or need to be fixed and so it's not letting oil circle through it. It's going to the valve and it has no where to go causing the engine to shut down

sandhills · February 10, 2014, 07:26:59 PM

That's closed center hydraulics as Piney stated, set up for a tractor (JD has closed center and IH open, makes it a lot of fun when you have both :D). You want to find the plug on the valve bank and change it over to open center so the fluid has a place to go without using the controls on the valve. The ones I've worked on usually just take a shorter plug, and welcome to the forum. Keep us posted on what you find.

dugan978 · February 10, 2014, 07:29:14 PM

I really have to get some pictures up. I have no clue what to do to switch it over

pineywoods · February 10, 2014, 07:38:25 PM

Not much doubt. you have a closed center valve, probably off a john deere tractor coupled with a positive displacement gear pump. An open center valve has a passage to allow oil to pass straight through until the lever is pulled. Then oil is diverted out to the cylinder. Closed center has no pass-through passage, has to be used with a special pump that has some type of internal pressure relief valve. Some valves can be converted. Nothing wrong with your motor. It is being overloaded and stalled trying to pump oil through a completely plugged off passage. Try surpluscenter.com for a replacement valve.

sandhills · February 10, 2014, 07:41:13 PM

Best way I can describe it, along your control valve that the levers are mounted on (this is without looking at one in front of me) there should be a plug on the outlet end if memory serves correct. It looks about the same as where one of the levers would be, unscrew it and it will be a "plug" inside, longer for closed center, shorter for open center. That plug is what is denying oil to flow past the valves when you're not using any of the levers on your splitter, by shortening it a small amount it will allow fluid to flow by when valves aren't in use. My disclaimer is I've only switched a few and don't have anything here to look at or go by, other than your description of the problem. The plug may unscrew from the bottom of the valve body also, someone else here who knows a lot more than me will be along shortly

.

EDIT: sorry Pineywoods already did,wasn't paying attention

snowstorm · February 10, 2014, 07:57:50 PM

a closed center valve dose not have a releif in it. they are used with piston pumps and the releif is at the pump. so its power on demand. if it runs 3000psi then you have 3000psi waiting at the valve ready to go to work. just buy a new open center valve. some have the plug to convert them some dont

dugan978 · February 10, 2014, 09:20:18 PM

I will check to see if plug is accessible.

gspren · February 10, 2014, 09:43:02 PM

If I lived closer I'd trade you valves, my tractor mounted splitter has a open center and I want to get a closed center for it, actually I want one that's convertible so I can switch it since my old 1956 JD620 is open center and my 1988 JD2355 is closed center.