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Anybody know anything about fisher plows?

Started by Woodboogah, February 22, 2014, 06:20:43 PM

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Woodboogah

Specifically a MM2 EZV.  I am having a hell of a time diagnosing a problem. 
Keenan Logging & Tree Care, LLC

Jim_Rogers

Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

sprucebunny

What's wrong with it ???

I'm no expert but I've been swearing at plows for a long time !
MS193, MS192 and an 026  Weeding and Thinning. Gilbert Champion sawmill

Woodboogah

So this is whats happening.  It is a fisher EZV  I replaced one of the angle cylinders due to it having a bur on the on the inside of it.   I got it so all functions were working as they should.  I went to plow out my truck road and landing yesterday and it was working fine and then it got stuck in the scoop position.  I tried bleeding each cylinder thinking air could be the culprit.  There was no air.  I drained the whole system and I tried to move each wing separately checking to see if there was some kind of restriction.  Each wing moved no problem.  I took out the cartridges and the two I took out hade 45 degress slices in the white O rings (they are not rubber but I am not sure what they would be called besides o rings) To me it seems there shouldnt be any rips or tears in those but they both had them so I am not sure now.  Thanks.  I posted this on a plow forum  It got 75 looks and not one comment.  Just another reason why this site is great!
Keenan Logging & Tree Care, LLC

Jim_Rogers

I was going to tell you about my loggers plow problem and how it was solved with a new filter, but it seems that your problem maybe different.

Good luck, Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

snowstorm

what you call orings sound like back up washers. and they should look like they do. i have 2 fishers. but no vees. call the dealer or the factory in rockland. if no mluck there try detroit motors in detroit me. that guy knows his stuff

isawlogs

I would switch a relay around and see if the problem is movedto a new position.. Ya may have a dead relay.
A man does not always grow wise as he grows old , but he always grows old as he grows wise .

   Marcel

Woodboogah

Ok thanks for the tips.   I will try them.  I should have mentioned when I drained the system and put and re bled I had all modes working except trying to pull both wings back at the same time.  If I moved the right wing in the left wing would move out (like it would work as a straight blade) like fluid isnt being allowed to move back.  I dont know a lot about plows but its doesnt seem like its a complicated system.  Thanks again
Keenan Logging & Tree Care, LLC

Hilltop366

The last Fisher I had was belt driven (somedays I miss it compared to the electric) but I did have a Meyer and now a Boss electric. The most troubles I would have were either electric, moisture or valve related.

Moisture in the oil would cause the valve to freeze when the temperature was around the freezing point.

Electric problems were either relay (pump won't run) or coil connection or dead coil, get your test light out.
Caution when working around plow, keep out of harms way of moving plow.

Sticking valve, just plain old worn out or damaged by the relief pressure set too high and/or striking something solid at a higher speed. If the valves are the same they could be switched to see if problem moved.

Check out the Fisher web sight to see if you can find the manual for your pump model.

Reddog

Quote from: isawlogs on February 23, 2014, 09:08:07 AM
I would switch a relay around and see if the problem is movedto a new position.. Ya may have a dead relay.

Yup, verify that all the relays are working. That will rule out the pump and valving.

If it still persists then it could be a bad switch in the hand controller or the micro processor that ties all the actions together.
If you need to start chasing problems in the controller I would get in contact with Fisher and see what diagnostics are built into the processor.

Holmes

One plow company site says to check the solenoids by , someone operates the controller and with a screwdriver check to see if there is a strong magnetic attraction on the top of the solenoid being operated, if not could be bad solenoid.
Think like a farmer.

Busy Beaver Lumber

Go to this link on fishers site. They tell you everything about that plow and even how to troubleshoot any problems

http://library.fisherplows.com/fisherplows/pdffiles/27365.01_080110.pdf
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Burlkraft

That's a nice manual. We used to sell Fisher's quite a while ago.
They were great to work with back then and from the looks of things
they have only gotten better.
If you can't figure it out I'd give them a call. I'm sure they will be more than happy to help
you out.
Why not just 1 pain free day?

Woodboogah

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions.   I think I have come to conclusion it is a bad valve.  When I hit the button to retract it from scoop mode it wants to move but cant.   I can see both wings both wings start to move then stop.  I have not had a chance to screw with it today because we had a family event to attend.  I dont know how to check if the valves are bad.  I took both of them out before and they moved freely but I cannot see the inside and dont even know what the inside consist of.  Thanks again.  It is much appreciated
Keenan Logging & Tree Care, LLC

Woodboogah

OK thanks.  Since I have posted this I have went over the mechanics guide for the plow.  I spent some time at the local fisher dealer.  I have tested all solonoids, changed fluids, and changed the S3 cartridge.  I still am having the same problem.  I ruled out the controler because when I hit the button to bring it back to V the plow jumps but doenst move.  Also when I am in the mode to move each wing individually and the blade is straight if I move the left wing it brings the right one with it and vice versa.   I thinking a bad ground? I checked all my connections and they look fine.  Is it common that the wire breaks inside the sleeve of the control wire?  Any and all advice or suggestion are much appreciated.  Thank you  I am at a loss and its going to snow!!!!!!!!
Keenan Logging & Tree Care, LLC

Don_Papenburg

Jumper direct to the valve control from your batt. that will eliminate the wire harness . If that works do an ohm check on each of the harness wires.  You could have a bad wire inside a good cover.  The headlight wire on my cav. was corroded green and broke inside a good insulated cover.
Frick saw mill  '58   820 John Deere power. Diamond T trucks

Hilltop366

Can you post a link to the mechanics guide you are viewing? (if you are viewing on line)

I looked at the one BBL posted but am not sure it is the correct one.

Sounds like it is putting pressure to the cylinders but not letting fluid out the other end to let it retract.

On page 46 of http://library.fisherplows.com/fisherplows/pdffiles/27365.01_080110.pdf It shows that there has to be 5 valves activated (S1, S4, S6, S8 and S10) to retract to the V position, Fluid return on base end of the cylinders is through valve S6 and S1 for one side and S10 and S1 for the other, if neither side is retracting my money is on the S1 not opening up, reasons for not opening : Not getting power, not getting ground, bad coil, bad valve.....

Woodboogah

Here is the mechanics guide for my plow. http://library.fisherplows.com/fisherplows/pdffiles/21856_070097.pdf That is exactly what it sounds like, fluid not coming back out of the cylinders.  I replaced the S3 cartridge and now I am at a loss.  I will have to have someone operate the plow control while I test stuff.  It seems that I am overlooking something simple.  Thanks for the replies it is greatly appreciated!
Keenan Logging & Tree Care, LLC

Hilltop366

I don't like to jump around when trouble shooting it is best to start at one end of a system and work your way to the other but check this out to see if I got it straight in my head.

Won't return to Vee.
Won't right retract or left retract.
Will angle right or left.

Going by the chart that shows which valves are energized for each function if S3 is not working it should not Vee, scoop, raise or lower.

According to the manual (pages 17-35) at the link you posted S5 is only energized for straight blade functions all other functions it is not energized and has flow or does not have flow.

S5  not energized directs flow back to reservoir.

S5 energized directs flow to cross over to the cylinder on the other side of the plow.

So if S5 is stuck in the energized position the plow would act as described with out any electrical issues.

As always cheep advise has no guarantee.
Hope it helps!


Woodboogah

Tomorrow is dedicated to figuring this plow out.  I got it used and havent really had any trouble with it until this past week and its been a money pit.  I am going to start from scratch and figure it out.   I do not think it is electrical because when I hit the button the plow wants to react but it cannot perform the function I am asking it to.  I will post how I made out.  Thanks again for the advice and suggestions. 
Keenan Logging & Tree Care, LLC

snowstorm

i told you who to call. sells 100's each winter. i say electrical 

Woodboogah

I will give him a ring before  I start digging into it.  I have checked everything electrical except the inside of the sleeve of the control wire. 
Keenan Logging & Tree Care, LLC

Woodboogah

Ended up being the S5 cartridge.  Thanks everyone for your help!
Keenan Logging & Tree Care, LLC

thecfarm

Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Hilltop366

Ready for the next storm!

Nothing time and money could not cure.

Fisher made a good mechanics guide, it's a good thing because I think who ever designs these valve systems has a evil streak in them.

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