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Sawing Question

Started by Coondog Sawyer, February 23, 2014, 09:08:21 PM

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Coondog Sawyer

Gentlemen, I am new to this site. I have followed it for awhile now and you all seem to know what your talking about. I have an issue that is driving me crazy to fix. I am running a LT40 HD with 1 1/2" 0.55 7 degree double hard blades. My problem is some of the boards lately are coming off the mill with a hump at the begining of them its within the first six inches. Just wondering if anyone has encountered this problem or knows any way to fix it, any information would be greatly welcome.

Chuck White

Just a guess, it could be the feed speed you're at when entering the log!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

isawlogs

 Speed of entry will do it and also stress in the log, a log that has been sitting in the sun and drying quickly will also at times do this. My money goes on speed of entry into a stressfull log.

  What type of log, and is it a butt log.  ???
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POSTON WIDEHEAD

Ease into the log until the blade is in and then get up to full speed.....that should help.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

davidlarson

Welcome to the Forestry Forum.  I would also bet on a speed on entry issue.  As a beginning sawyer I have always found a phone call to Wood-Mizer to provide useful answers to most of my questions.
David L.

Coondog Sawyer

Thanks fellows.  Tried slowing the speed down that made the hump larger.  I just noticed it on the last couple logs I sawed.  Once you take the board off and go back it will saw off the bump on the cant but the very next board its right back. It was a brand new box of blades I was using. With the snow I havent been able to compare blades yet.  Thanks for the input  I wil try to keep it slow.

POSTON WIDEHEAD

CoonDog....do you move your blade guide over close to your log to give the blade more stability?
When you start getting a hump....thats usually the first sign your blade may be getting a little dull but not yet ready to change.

This is why I buck all my logs 6 inches over desired length because I know the blade entry will be sawed off with a skill saw.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

Magicman

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Coondog Sawyer.

Compression wood in the butt log.  It's effects sometimes can be minimized by entering the small end of the log.


 
As shown above even sharp blades on a properly adjusted sawmill will sometimes ride up when encountering compression wood.


 
Notice the wrinkled bark on this tree butt.  Assuredly this log butt will contain compression wood and will cause the sawblade to deflect.   If this tree is felled leaving an 18" stump this compression will be avoided and the blade will not be deflected.
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YellowHammer

Whenever I see a hump or dip at the beginning of a cut that seems reoccurring, I always look at the logs I'm sawing (as discussed in the other posts) but also check my drive belt tension and my up/down chain tension, it takes only a minute.  Then clip on the blade alignment tool and check that as well.  Then crank up the band tension almost to the stop.
If everything checks out OK, then at least you know what isn't causing the problem. ;D
YH
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

backwoods sawyer

Quote from: YellowHammer on February 24, 2014, 12:03:30 AM
Whenever I see a hump or dip at the beginning of a cut that seems reoccurring, I always look at the logs I'm sawing (as discussed in the other posts) but also check my drive belt tension and my up/down chain tension, it takes only a minute.  Then clip on the blade alignment tool and check that as well.  Then crank up the band tension almost to the stop.
If everything checks out OK, then at least you know what isn't causing the problem. ;D
YH
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Backwoods Custom Milling Inc.
100% portable. . Oregons largest portable sawmill service, serving all of Oregon, from our Backwoods to yours..sawing since 1991

jcbrotz

My 3 things would be where are you located and is the wood frozen? that make a lot of difference. Also the 7's like a lot of speed to get rid of the sawdust so you may not be feeding fast enough and sawdust is spilling over atop the blade. Oh and the normal check your alignment as that's probably the cause/cure 50% of the time.
2004 woodmizer lt40hd 33hp kubota, Cat 262B skidsteer and way to many tractors to list. www.Brotzmanswoodworks.com and www.Brotzmanscenturyfarm.com

Peter Drouin

Quote from: YellowHammer on February 24, 2014, 12:03:30 AM
Whenever I see a hump or dip at the beginning of a cut that seems reoccurring, I always look at the logs I'm sawing (as discussed in the other posts) but also check my drive belt tension and my up/down chain tension, it takes only a minute.  Then clip on the blade alignment tool and check that as well.  Then crank up the band tension almost to the stop.
If everything checks out OK, then at least you know what isn't causing the problem. ;D
YH

smiley_thumbsup
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

thecfarm

Coondog Sawyer,welcome to the forum. How long have been sawing?   ;D
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

reswire

I run a Timberking 1600, had a similar problem a while back.  I found it to be a problem in my blade adjustment.  I lowered the rollers down 1/8" and made sure they were leveled with the bed, and have no more problems.  I guess each mill, and each mill manufacturer can have problems that are resolved in different fashions.   :-\
Norwood LM 30, JD 5205, some Stihl saws, 15 goats, 10 chickens, 1 Chessie and a 2 Weiner dogs...

LittleJohn

What about knots??? Knots can really push around and play with the blade

bedway

I would check the set in the teeth (side to side). Ive had one side set at .022 and the other was at .012. Darn band was cutting in circles! :D

ladylake


You might want to try 4° blades in frozen wood, on my mill they did a lot better than 10° , the 10° would make that hump almost all the time no matter how slow I entered the log.  Also make sure your blade is level with the mill.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Cguignard

I have had that problem with my Norwood lumbermate, I tried everything I could think of, more tension, more speed, and closer guide rollers. I didn't cure it till I lowered my guide rollers down about  and eighth of an inch or a little more.  I used a level on the blade and just leveled it up to the bunks.

Coondog Sawyer

Thanks gentlemen.  After all you comments and what other research I have done it almost has to be the guide rollers. I did some adjusting to them soon as the weather cooperates with me I will be trying it out. Got some black locust to mill.

customsawyer

One other thing that will cause this some is if the log has end checking on it with the compression wood.
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5quarter

All good advice. I had that problem quite some time ago. I used to creep into the log and then speed up. On the advice of a veteran sawyer, I started entering the cut at or near regular sawing speed and lo and behold, problem solved. Occasionally, I will have the same but less pronounced problem when sawing an oak that has been sitting for awhile. The end dries out and will push the blade around in the first few inches. I now dock all my log ends right before sawing, and haven't had that trouble again.
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