Where do you guys find the best pricing on Anchorseal in the five gallon pail?
I'm going to start collecting logs for my next timber frame and want to take the best precautions.
You have to hunt for the best price but Amazon.com gives you a variaty of vendors to chose from and they tend to get the best price. Depending on where you live shipping might make or break the deal you're getting.
I used to buy it direct from Anchor Seal but I'm not sure you can do that anymore.
Like 40Frank said, check your websites for the best prices and pay attention to shipping charges.
I buy it directly from UC-Coatings. I think a 5 gallon bucket was $92 including shipping the last I bought.
Just brought 5 gallons from uc coatings and it's still $92 including the shipping
I haven't been able to find a cheaper price than through UC Coatings, for the 5 gallon buckets. We normally buy several at a time, and shipping is dependable and free.
I don't know about anybody else, but I don't particularly like the colored versions because I can't really see the end grain to optimize my sawing. I also prefer the original formula, Anchorseal Classic.
Thanks for the replies. It does seem like UCC has the best shipped price. Free shipping is a big deal considering the size and weight of 5 gallons.
Just bought some direct from UC Coatings and it was $92 including shipping.
5 pails used to get a decent discount from the 1 pail price. Still free shipping.
I've been considering starting to buy the bad mixed batches of paint. Stores will make mistakes and discount the paint significantly. Sometimes it's an overrun of quantity and you can benefit from it.
Just saying, $20 a gallon v $2-5 per gallon means real money.
Is there really an advantage to sticking with Anchor Seal?
The wax emulsion is a far better end sealant than paint.
Paint will slow down the end grain drying out, but not as much as wax. Maybe it will be enough to help, maybe not?
I bought a bucket in'14, it was $87 shipped to MA.
Are you thinking about some hardwood for the next frame?
Ya Dave, a mix. Id like to do each of the three bents a different type of wood.
Paint is not useless as an end sealer, just close.
Quick update: Offered now for $95 shipped by UC direct, clear; $98 for the colors. I would suggest buying food coloring and doing your own if colors are your thing, cheaper.
1 not 2 for me, but they have both.
If anyone in FF in the Charlottesville/Richmond Virginia area would like to go in on a 55 gallon drum, I found $634 shipped from another company, and we could ask UC Coatings, too. I'd be willing to buy it and dispense it with a drum pump, etc, maybe for a couple of bucks per gal more than cost to take up waste & eq/overhead cost. The stuff is touted as freeze resistant so it could sit in one of our barns.
I'd take five gallons or so. That's about as much as I need to have on hand. Maybe some others will chime in.
5 gallons will last me a year. Most of my sawing is custom sawing.
MbfVA. They may say it is freeze resistant but in my experience you best not get to freezing or it is ruined. I had a what was left of a gallon in my shed last winter and it got cold enough to ruin it.
Now I keep anchor seal in basement during cold weather.
Look for other brands because that seems expensive.
I can get Anchorseal here but $$$.
I can also get "Caltex Timber Sealer" or " Mobilcer 195". Caltex is the Australian division of Chevron, Mobil is the Australian division of ExxonMobil.
All the same as Anchorseal, half the price. I'd be talking with your gas guys about what they might be able to get for you.
For the hobbyist use old latex house paint and news paper. If you are cutting your own logs and will not be end trimming green lumber; carry the end sealer with the chain saw. After you cut a few logs to length, stop and apply sealer before the checking starts. This is the most effective way.
Doing it in the woods sounds like good advice, but the newspaper might get pulled off ::). That's an interesting amendment to the paint suggestion, however.
I have asked UC for a direct shipped price on a drum. I will also ask them for written advice on whether it is freeze proof. Since it is water-based, freezing certainly seems like a concerning possibility. In another thread someone said something about adding antifreeze. Again, I will ask UC.
Getting a 55 gallon drum inside a heated building at our farm will be a pain. At this point it would be the house alone. There is a basement but the steps are over 200 years old and a nasty hand cart negotiation. We had a -5°F night back in 2015. I hear loud Canadian accented laughing filtering down from Maple leaf land. Yeah, yeah, ok....
I have lots of junk paint around so I might just try that method with a log or 2 and see how it compares, with the same species & diameter of wood, cut at the same time as one I coat with anchorseal. In another thread, someone mentioned using roofing paint, but they also mentioned that it was hard on bandsaw blades.
I think mobil chemical is still headquartered near here. I sold a house to the president many years ago, will have to ask. Unless it's manufactured locally, the shipping cost is killer going from one Conner to another. Thank you Siri, that's supposed to be confident, continent.
There is a lot to consider here on what I thought was a very simple subject.
I'll throw in a family style chicken dinner discount coupon for my friend from Midlothian (and others) when he picks his up, if I get this going. Thanks for the dialog, we will get this one figured out.
Quote from: MbfVA on November 27, 2017, 02:12:50 AM
I have lots of junk paint around so I might just try that method with a log or 2 and see how it compares, with the same species & diameter of wood, cut at the same time as one I coat with anchorseal.
It does not work well compared to anchorseal. Not even close.
I use W.R. Meadows 1300 water based wax emulsion in lieu of Anchorseal. I can get 5 gallons for $38 and it brushes/rolls/sprays well. It has worked very well for me. It looks and behaves like Anchorseal. I don't have to pay shipping because a local construction supply company stocks it.
I went looking for WR Meadows, in Richmond Virginia, no luck locally, but a supplier told me about this one:
http://www.kaufmanproducts.net/html/productsfr.html
Opinions? Has anyone used Kaufman 446 ( available locally to us for $355 for 55 gals) ? Or any other Kaufman product? Comments on the comparative composition? To their knowledge, no one has ever used their products for wood.
No one seems to carry Anchorseal around here. There is an Anchorseal dealer in Remington, VA, so perhaps member NativeWolf knows of them & their pricing.
I just got drum pricing from UC Coatings, direct from the mfr.
For "Classic" Anchorseal, clear with antifreeze added: $363+ frt ($136 to us, we have forks for unloading);
For "Hybrid" Anchorseal2, clear, with antifreeze added: $321.75+same frt
The antifreeze not withstanding, they do not recommend letting it freeze. I found that a bit confusing. What does antifreeze do in this case?
They have a warehouse about 200 miles away, near enough to another vendor we deal with (really close to FF mbr Don P, too), so we could pick it up.
Just some FYI.
Its water based. When it freezes the waxes and emulsifiers will separate and drop out of suspension.
I had a pail of left over rubberized roof coating that we used on a horse trailer, I think it's called Henry's or something like that, around $65 / 5 gallons at the big box store. Anyway, I have used it on pecan and a couple of other logs I don't see often and I have been quite happy with the results. I do have some on a big red oak that escaped to the back of a pile, that has been on there for 2 1/2 years now and it still looks good.
The Woodcraft store in Richmond carries Anchorseal, but nothing bigger than gallons. For me it's been better for both price and convenience to buy direct from UCC coatings.
I'm betting that someone here carries the WR Meadows product, but it doesn't show up on the radar. I'm going to ask around. I'll let you know if I find a local source.
Southside,
Is your coating clear or opaque? I use clear anchorseal so I can still see the end grain/checking to help me determine how to open and cut my logs. I'll admit it partially obscures some of the end but the major features can still be seen.
One thing that hasn't been mentioned about Anchorseal that makes it very convenient: Since it's a wax emulsion product, it doesn't dry up in a sprayer tip when left for a long time. You don't really need to clean the equipment. I also keep a 4" brush suspended in a coffee can with water in it. Cut a small x in the plastic lid and slip the handle through. This allows the brush bristles to be suspended in the water. Shake it out and go to work when needed. Cleaning up brushes or sprayers after every use would be problematic to me. Sometimes the sprayer will sit for a month or two between uses and it doesn't clog.
btullah,
Sounds similar to what I do. I took a 1 gallon milk jug and cut out a section opposite the handle leaving the neck on. I keep a 4" paintbrush in there and if I do happen to pour up too much anchorseal in the jug I can still pour it back in the 5 gallon jug using the neck as a funnel when I am done sealing logs. Works fine for me.
WV Sawmiller,
It's opaque, pretty much white. I put it on with a roller and I can still see all the end grain. I will get a picture of that oak log and some sawn pecan that has been drying for a while now so those who use the Anchorseal can compare it to what you see, I have never used the stuff so I can't compare it.
Quote from: btulloh on November 30, 2017, 08:43:27 AM
I'm betting that someone here carries the WR Meadows product, but it doesn't show up on the radar. I'm going to ask around. I'll let you know if I find a local source.
A.H. Harris Inc. in Richmond sells WR Meadows products. If 1300 isn't in-stock they probably have it at one of their other stores and can transfer it in.
I belong to a woodturning club and each August we raise money by selling about 50 turning blanks. This year one of our members took a class with Glen Lucas (Irish Woodturner) and Glen uses Concrete Bonding Additive. It is only about $13 / gallon but is very thin. We coated everything this year with Concrete Bonding additive and people seemed happy.
Personally, I prefer Anchor Seal, but at about half the cost you might want to check on the bonding additive. I bought it a one of the box stores and it was easy to apply.
I spent a few days trying to get the Wr Meadows or other wax based emulsions, with no luck. They did not sell them in Atlanta. Several companies make a water based wax emulsion for curing concrete. What I did find would be as expensive as anchor seal with shipping. It would be nice to get a 55 gallon drum between a few people and split it up. I know that is what a lot of woodworking clubs do.
Quote from: longtime lurker on November 30, 2017, 01:33:08 AM
Its water based. When it freezes the waxes and emulsifiers will separate and drop out of suspension.
I asked UC coatings explicitly if Anchorseal is freeze proof, and the rep said somewhat confusingly but in writing, we do put antifreeze in it, but we don't recommend leaving it outside to freeze.
I think maybe they outsourced that question & answer to my member of Congress. Or maybe she had just read the opening scene from Romeo and Juliet.
Quote from: longtime lurker on November 26, 2017, 04:54:20 PM
The quickest way to make a million dollars with a sawmill is to start with two million.
Love that quote in your signature! :D :):D :):D :D
Look into a drum heater. It's a band strap the goes around the drum then
you just plug it in...
Drum heater (https://www.google.com/search?biw=1360&bih=653&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=pz0jWrXVFpiYjwO4kaioCQ&q=55+gal+drum+heater&oq=55+gal+drum+heater&gs_l=psy-ab.3...13114.14892.0.15237.6.6.0.0.0.0.436.836.4-2.2.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..4.2.835...0i7i30k1.0.uqQqK6h3r-4)
Quote from: PA_Walnut on December 02, 2017, 06:25:02 PM
Quote from: longtime lurker on November 26, 2017, 04:54:20 PM
The quickest way to make a million dollars with a sawmill is to start with two million.
Love that quote in your signature! :D :):D :):D :D
Yeah well I'm only half joking (or I'm half way there depending how you look at it). I'm covering a half mill $ mortgage with a sawmill, and to get to where I want to go I need another $250k or so in equipment (2nd hand) I'm one of the best mill managers in the business, but other then that ability and not being afraid of work I've got nothing behind me asset wise: without the $ you cant buy the equipment and without the equipment you can't make the $. So we do it all on a shoestring and I work hard instead of smart, and we all know whoever said hard work wont kill you wasnt in this line of work.
Acute Sawdustitis: :It's a sublime form of madness. :D
The two gallon size is easy to carry and half the price of a whoopsie when it tips over. I can throw it in the truck for fresh cut when I can't get the logs that day. The clear also works well for face grain on slabs when you want to save a piece with some nice knots. Can never put too much on, and always bring inside if near 30 degrees.
Lurker,
I surely know what you're talking about...it never ends. :o
I'm walking the same wire....fortunately, I have another unrelated business that can sustain me while I'm "working the problem".
Continually I'm reminded of the joy/satisfaction of doing something I like. There ARE a lot of people making a good living at it--just have to find the proper course and walk-the-walk.
I'm curious as to your current challenges and equipment needs. It helps to learn from others' struggles and successes. I'll PM you.
Quote from: longtime lurker on December 02, 2017, 07:15:40 PM
Quote from: PA_Walnut on December 02, 2017, 06:25:02 PM
Quote from: longtime lurker on November 26, 2017, 04:54:20 PM
The quickest way to make a million dollars with a sawmill is to start with two million.
Love that quote in your signature! :D :):D :):D :D
Yeah well I'm only half joking (or I'm half way there depending how you look at it). I'm covering a half mill $ mortgage with a sawmill, and to get to where I want to go I need another $250k or so in equipment (2nd hand) I'm one of the best mill managers in the business, but other then that ability and not being afraid of work I've got nothing behind me asset wise: without the $ you cant buy the equipment and without the equipment you can't make the $. So we do it all on a shoestring and I work hard instead of smart, and we all know whoever said hard work wont kill you wasnt in this line of work.
Acute Sawdustitis: :It's a sublime form of madness. :D
5 gal through UCC is $88 and to ship to tx, is $42 in shipping. not finding 5 gal on amazon any longer. not finding a place in tx that carries it in a 55 gal drum either, but a place in Ga. sells it for $499, plus $166 shipping.
does it spoil? is there a shelf life on it?