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Woodmizer LT30 1986 Model

Started by badger1, July 06, 2018, 12:49:09 AM

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badger1

Looking at purchasing 1986 LT30. Clean, it's been repainted, not used all that much. Has the Kohler 16Hp motor on it. I've cut a couple logs with it and seemed fine.
 
I was looking at the Woodmizer website and the only real advice they give for buying a used mill is to check engine oil, if low, walk away. That's kind of a no-brainer.
 
Can anyone tell me what the official diameter and length it will cut? I didn't find that on the WM website and I have a rough idea of maybe 30" diameter and 16' length?
 
Looking through the forum, the only other recommendations that I read had to do with the slides? I don't know if I'm using the correct terminology or not, but from what I understand it's what the "trolley" rides down as the saw travels down the track? Is this correct? How bad is too bad? Is it fixable?
 
I found the manual on the WM website and it looks like you can pretty much get ANY part for the thing you can imagine, they have all poart numbers and exploded drawings are superb that makes it reassuring that if there was an issue I could get the parts needed even though its an older model and repair/replace myself.
 
I am assuming that the engine would be the highest cost potential replacement item. Are there other big ticket things to consider? The 1986 model is about as plain jane as you can get, and honestly thats what I like about it. Very simple desing, belts, pulleys and a couple electric motors. 

When/If I pick it up, besides the obvious (oil change, filters) anything else I should consider? I just planned to change all the fluids and grease er up well, check out the jerks, wire connections and belts etc. I think the only things I'm not familiar with are the bearings, slides, chain etc. Anything to do with the blade placement/ bearings/slides etc that is a deal breaker? Like I said I'm not afraid of normal wear items I can get from WM and repair/replace myself, just want to make sure that there isnt anything that could be a huge expensive repair (ie. $1k or more) and I dont "think" there is as long as the engine has been taken care of, and I think it has. The rig looks clean overall.
 
I'll also add that the saw would be for my own use only, small projects, nothing major, just cutting some things for myself, timbers and maybe live edge projects for friends etc. No intention of doing it as a side business. I also have access to a tractor w/ loader and skid steer for lifting logs onto deck.
 
Thanks for the feedback! I'm hoping to get the "go-ahead" from you guys more experienced with the WM mills and go pick it up and get sawing! Just want to double check with you fellas before I pull the trigger. 
 
Contact me via PM, willing to help with projects for more experience
1986 Woodmizer LT30, STIHL MS261C, 1997 Dodge 2500 CUMMINS

trapper

It will cut 16 feet but the log has to be placed in exactly the right place.  Yes 30 inches but I prefer 25 as a max.   
stihl ms241cm ms261cm  echo 310 400 suzuki  log arch made by stepson several logrite tools woodmizer LT30

GAB

badger1:
Go ahead and pull the trigger it's only money.
I believe the LT30 was rated for a 17' max length log, and the LT40 was rated for a 21' max length.
To do those lengths you have to remove the bumpers and place the log perfectly and hope it does not move when you rotate it.  On my LT40 anything over 20'-6" requires either the chainsaw or the extension bed.
The max log diameter spec was either 30" or 36" diameter, but the max width board is close to 24" on my 2005 mill.
Make sure that the drive belt(s) is/are properly tensioned before starting to try and saw.
Wishing you the best.
GAB
W-M LT40HDD34, SLR, JD 420, JD 950w/loader and Woods backhoe, V3507 Fransguard winch, Cordwood Saw, 18' flat bed trailer, and other toys.

jb616

I have an '84 that I restored this winter and I love it. Mostly for hobby and friends but I just finished a job for 30 logs that was mostly cherry, some elm, and some hickory.  keep in touch with Wood mizer as they have very good information for you. Mine has a 14hp Kohler and I am impressed with what the motor can do.  just run the saw head up and down the track without a log to ensure that it goes smoothly and works in every speed, use the up/down to make sure that it works well and that the motor starts up and runs well. That will cover about 90% of what you need to know.  Feel free to message me as I have replaced all the bearings on mine and have totally gone through the whole machine. 

beav

I had a '85 lt40. I sold it and got an '87 lt40hd when they came out, which has provided me with 30+ yrs. of trouble free service. I would inspect the rails(that the carriage rides on) carefully for rust pitting. Any imperfections would telegraph and multiply to the carriage causing uneven cuts. A difficult repair. Keep coated with wd40 or something to keep It nice if you do buy it.
Prolly eyeball the frame for straightness as well, support equipment and falling logs can sure tweak things.
Anything else is probably an easy fix.
Wood mizer has tweaked  the details, but have kept the same general design for the last 30+ yrs. It still works.

corke

It will cut 16' 4" long, with a board width of 24". That means you can usually square a 30" log, but depending on the shape, sweep, knots or other defects, some are easier than others. And as others have mentioned, when cutting maximum length logs, you have to have the log placed in the exact position. On this year mill, there are no bumpers or other things that need to be removed to cut the full length. 

jb616

I am currently making modifications to be able to saw down to the last inch. In stock form you can only get down to 2.5 to 3 inches. 

Jeff

Quote from: GAB on July 06, 2018, 11:39:10 AMbelieve the LT30 was rated for a 17' max length log


No, it is not. 16 foot maximum with very little wiggle room. If it is a couple inches longer or not cut square you may not be able to either get the blade started into it, or if you do, you won't be able to get it out.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

badger1

Thanks for the replies fellas!

I pulled the trigger and bought the mill! I have used it before, cut a few logs last summer and it worked well. I will pick it up this weekend. 

Thanks for the heads up on things to check, overall I think its in very decent shape. It has been repainted and I dont think it was ever worked very hard. Hobby sawing only, the gentlemen (now in mid 80's) didnt saw full time, just his own projects occasionally and I dont think that was all that often either. 

I plan on towing it back home, but will check tires for weather checking and plan to repack the bearings on site before making the trip back home (3 hours). 

I'll get in contact with those above who offered the info regarding bearings. Once I get it home I'll go through it and "freshen" up worn parts if needed. Like I said I am thoroughly impressed with WM manuals. Exploded drawings and part numbers for everything! I wish all equipment had such simple design and resources, makes it easy to buy in confidence. I love the simplicity of the older machines. 

As for the cut length/diameter, sounds like this is perfect. I'd like to cut my own timbers for some small sheds/dovetail cabins and likely wouldnt need to go over 16' in length and a 6x6 or 6x8 timber. Sounds perfect. If I make boards, 24" wide would be plenty. Also sounds like the Kohler 16hp should do fine, that was my only other concern as many guys stated they liked to increase the HP/installing a new engine, but maybe thats only necessary if a guy was gonna do this full-time and with serious volume, for my needs again, sounds like plenty. 

To say I am a little excited is an understatement. 
Contact me via PM, willing to help with projects for more experience
1986 Woodmizer LT30, STIHL MS261C, 1997 Dodge 2500 CUMMINS

Chuck White

A few weeks back, I took my Amish neighbor to look at an '86 LT30 manual.

Made this post about it!
http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=100970.msg1570019#msg1570019

~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

badger1

Can anyone tell me the tire/rim size I should run on the LT30?

Thinking more about it, I will repack the bearings before making the trip, but I'm worried that the current tires are probably weather checked, hell they could even be original to the machine and I dont know that I feel comfortable trusting them to make the 3hr drive home, even if I keep the majority of it under 55mph with back roads etc.

Would these work?

https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/carlisle-radial-trail-hd-tire-st205-75r14-lrc-tire-only/0000000251835?gclid=CjwKCAjwspHaBRBFEiwA0eM3kSfCrlkk6IyHxHOh-ktRHiu5gVaaX9cGvLRXrVKAyoIUzBgrCO6AbxoCLJMQAvD_BwE

Otherwise i could borrow a friends car trailer but that might be a trick to load the WM on a car trailer by myself...Would be much easier if I can just tow it home. Just trying to think of all variables, the thought of having a blow out with my new mill going down the road makes me sick just thinking about it.

Thanks for the feeback
Contact me via PM, willing to help with projects for more experience
1986 Woodmizer LT30, STIHL MS261C, 1997 Dodge 2500 CUMMINS

trapper

175/80/d13 matched the tires on my 87 lt30  bought tires and rims from Etrailer.  the rims were the standard 5 hole rims found on most small trailers
Loadstar ST175/80D13 Bias Trailer Tire with 13" White Wheel - 5 on 4-1/2 - Load Range D - AM31233
stihl ms241cm ms261cm  echo 310 400 suzuki  log arch made by stepson several logrite tools woodmizer LT30

badger1

Quote from: trapper on July 10, 2018, 01:03:47 PM
175/80/d13 matched the tires on my 87 lt30  bought tires and rims from Etrailer.  the rims were the standard 5 hole rims found on most small trailers
Loadstar ST175/80D13 Bias Trailer Tire with 13" White Wheel - 5 on 4-1/2 - Load Range D - AM31233

Thanks for the link!

I'll post pics when I pick it up! Hopefully this weekend
Contact me via PM, willing to help with projects for more experience
1986 Woodmizer LT30, STIHL MS261C, 1997 Dodge 2500 CUMMINS

badger1

Happy to report the 1986 LT30 made it home safely, pulled beautifully behind the truck. I had purchased some new rims/tires for the mill in prep for the 4hr drive home. When I arrived I was surprised to see the wheels/tires on the mill where in pristine condition, no weather checking and they still had hairs around the rim lip so I left them on and will keep the new set as spares, or switch them out eventually and keep the ones on there now as spares. I dont plan to move the rig much now that it is home. 

I was also surprised at the condition of the mill. I had seen it a year ago and remember it being in good shape but didnt remember exactly how clean it was. In the last couple weeks when I knew I was purchasing it and then after I purchased it I have been looking at pictures online, reading threads an watching YouTube videos non-stop. I think seeing older models in much rougher condition made me think that mine would be comparable. When I got up there my jaw dropped, this thing is cherry!

I got the original manuals with the mill as well as the .pdf versions from WM website. Excited to order some replacement parts as preventative maint. Belts etc. I also got 4 new blades with it, a sharpening system that was never used (I dont know that I will use it either and some other misc things. 

The saw is beautiful, I paid what I thought was fair, I have only seen two other saws on CL that where even close to this (LT30's) in the last year or two, one was in Milwaukee and the guy wanted $9 (super high) and the other was in Montana and the guy was asking $8k for it I think, the one in Milwaukee I would say was close to as nice, the one in MT looked rougher. I never contacted WM to see what they valued the saw at but I will say that I think I got a good deal on it. I think I can use it for as long as I want and IF I ever did sell it, I wouldnt lose money, if I did it wouldnt be much. 

I am beyond excited! I love the mill, its in beautiful shape and Im looking forward to making some dust! It's all there and in great condition. I drove the 4hrs up north Friday night after work and got up there and hit the hay. I stayed in a cabin on site and looked at the crazy bright moon from the window! I went to sleep excited and got up Sat morning and went outside, the owner came out and we went over the mill, he showed me some particulars about operation, how to adjust things and what did what. We sawed a couple boards and went over some other things. I hooked it up to the truck and started the trip back home. 

2 things I would like to change about the mill eventually. The first is that there is no jack for the tongue of the trailer. This makes it tough to hook up to the truck. I've never seen a trailer that didnt have an adjustable jack. I had to use a high lift off-road type jack the previous owner had to lift it onto the ball o the truck. I looked online and found some heavy duty ones that mount/weld onto the trailer that might be a project in the future. The second modification would be an electric winch to help pull logs onto the deck. I know some here have done this and it looks slick. 

Other than the regular maint anyone would do when taking ownership of something (new oil/filters/belts etc) I couldnt be happier. I will look into some of the bushings etc in the manual and might order some just to be proactive when I order some blades and might look into having WM send out a rep when in the area to do a once-over for the $500 or so they charge to know that it's in factory tolerances/shape like new. Has anyone here had that done? I think it might be worth it with such a nice to saw to have it dialed in and get some knowledge from the tech on what to watch etc maybe some tips. 

Feel free to ask any questions or provide any feedback. Thanks again to all who chimed in with my initial questions and steered me in the right direction. I love these things, and they are simply and bulletproof really. WM has excellent customer service and I cant wait to register it when i contact them. 




 

 

 
Contact me via PM, willing to help with projects for more experience
1986 Woodmizer LT30, STIHL MS261C, 1997 Dodge 2500 CUMMINS

Chuck White

Almost looks like a new mill, congratulations, great find!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

badger1

Quote from: Chuck White on July 31, 2018, 06:54:19 AM
Almost looks like a new mill, congratulations, great find!
Thanks! It really is in great shape, I'm in the middle of a crazy work stretch but when Im finished up here I plan on taking some serious time to play with the mill. 
I'll post a bunch more pictures and a cutting video or two. 
Contact me via PM, willing to help with projects for more experience
1986 Woodmizer LT30, STIHL MS261C, 1997 Dodge 2500 CUMMINS

badger1

Thought I would give an update for this year now that it seems we are finally going to be done with winter. Record snow falls this year had me wondering...

Yesterday I finally had a day off and I wanted to take the time to service the mill, basics only so that when I get more free time and nice weather, if i want to play with it I wont have to spend time doing basics. 

I replaced the oil, air filter, cleaned pre-filter, new spark plug, fresh non-ethanol gas and purchased a new battery. The battery was dead as I expected from sitting all winter and it didnt have a date on it, it looked very very old, I noticed it was a Napa battery so I brought it in and they were able to get me one in 2hrs delivered. I was a little worried because it is a commercial battery and I was expecting it to be pretty pricey (like $2-300) but it ended up being exactly $150 with core so I pulled the trigger. Kind of pricey but not as bad as I was expecting and it worth the piece of mind to me to start fresh and know when everything has been serviced etc. 

Made all these maintenance tasks and she fired right up, puring like a kitten. 

I sent an email to Woodmizer requesting a customer number, I have my account set up with them online but didnt get a customer number, Id like to register the mill and buy a pack of blades. 

I have 3 brand new blades that came with the mill, the blade that is on it is now rusty from sitting all winter and I'll replace that obviously before doing any milling. I still have to read about setting the tension and changing out blades, I have never done it before and there arent many youtube videos about it from what I have found so far. 

I also would like to find some of the lubrication materials found in the manual that came with the mill and the one I printed off from the WM website. I need to grease the zerks on the mill and lub everything up. I am expecting I'll probably also purchase new belts for the machine, the ones on it currently still function but are showing signs of wear and like I said before I'd like to just start fresh. I like everything I own to be maintained well and documented with dates and part numbers etc. 

Other things I'm going to look at are the slides, bearings, rollers etc, also evidently the tension spring can wear out (I read on another LT30 post here on the forum) so I'd like to possibly replace that. 

The mill is in overall fabulous shape, there are a couple areas that could maybe use a fresh coat of paint, and I'll be looking for a paint code to use, I know Fleet Farm carries good industrial implement paint and I know they have an orange color, not sure how close it will match I'll have to take a look, might be Allis Chalmers orange. 

Excited to get it set up and start cutting. I dont plan on doin git as a business, just for fun personally and probably some friends if they need something. I plan on making my own timbers for a dovetail cabin/sauna eventually. 

Boy when people hear you have a Woodmizer people with things to cut come out of the woodwork! Coworkers have already asked me to cut things up, at least 10-12 guys with things they want cut for various projects. So far I've told them that Im still in the learning phase and havent figured everything out yet, I want to make sure the mill is dialed in. None of the jobs would be precision based or super accurate necessarily. Most guys just want some stuff rough cut to then plane and finish for a coffee table or fireplace mantle etc. I wouldnt even know how to charge for it, thats not super important to me, mostly just cover the blade (or a broke one if hit metal) and a couple bucks for gas so I havent thrown out any numbers if it gets to that point and I end up doing it I'll have to figure out a deal, I prefer to trade as I have a problem charging friends or others I know, I always end up going to cheap honestly. 

The next time Im playing with the mill I'll take more pictures and post them so everyone can take a look and let me know what they think. 

As for now I'm reading the manual about blade changes and gonna check youtube to see if there is a video on it. Im a visual learner so its much easier for me to watch someone do something once versus stumbling through reading a procedure and trying to figure it out. 
Contact me via PM, willing to help with projects for more experience
1986 Woodmizer LT30, STIHL MS261C, 1997 Dodge 2500 CUMMINS

Southside

That mill looks amazing, great find for sure!!  I think the color changed slightly at some point, I did get a can of paint from WM to touch up my mill and it's labeled as "Poland Orange" if that helps at all.  
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

trapper

If you change the tension spring measure it to get the right one The first one I bought when at the open house in Indy was the wrong one.
stihl ms241cm ms261cm  echo 310 400 suzuki  log arch made by stepson several logrite tools woodmizer LT30

badger1

Quote from: trapper on March 22, 2019, 10:49:50 PM
If you change the tension spring measure it to get the right one The first one I bought when at the open house in Indy was the wrong one.
Good tip, thanks!
Contact me via PM, willing to help with projects for more experience
1986 Woodmizer LT30, STIHL MS261C, 1997 Dodge 2500 CUMMINS

Chuck White

In a few days, you should receive a Wood-Mizer customer service card and it will have your customer number and the serial number of the mill on it!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

badger1

Quote from: Chuck White on March 23, 2019, 06:36:18 AM
In a few days, you should receive a Wood-Mizer customer service card and it will have your customer number and the serial number of the mill on it!
Awesome, excited, cant wait to get it...thanks for the info
Contact me via PM, willing to help with projects for more experience
1986 Woodmizer LT30, STIHL MS261C, 1997 Dodge 2500 CUMMINS

Woodpecker52

Just think of the demand for antique woodmizers in the future to restore to like new condition and to show off at county fairs etc.  Nice job on the find and a hats off to those who keep the machines dear to the heart.
Woodmizer LT-15, Ross Pony #1 planner, Ford 2600 tractor, Stihl chainsaws, Kubota rtv900 Kubota L3830F tractor

badger1

Quote from: Woodpecker52 on March 23, 2019, 09:27:56 AM
Just think of the demand for antique woodmizers in the future to restore to like new condition and to show off at county fairs etc.  Nice job on the find and a hats off to those who keep the machines dear to the heart.
I think honestly its a testament to Woodmizer. I have had limited experience with them thus far, but am impressed with my ability to still have easy access to the manuals online for print off, as well as detailed exploded drawings with part numbers. That was a huge selling factor for me, the simplicity of the design and the assurance that if something went wrong with it, I could address it myself and still have access to the parts I need. Thats big for me, Im just an average DIY but I think anything is well within my ability with a good drawing and part numbers explaining exactly what I need to replace. 
Going over the machine closer the other day, I am again impressed with how simple it is, and IMO that is the mark of true good design. Simplicity and reliability. As long as they continue this (Im sure they will) Im a vary happy customer. I plan on having the mill for a long long time and with their superior customer service Im confident thats possible. 
Looking over the machine, as long as basic maintenance is taken are of on regular intervals I think this thing could outlast me! It could be my old school mentality (I still drive 20+yr old vehicles, and until 2 years ago, my daily driver was was not fuel injected! 79 F150 4x4) I like things that last if taken care of, and this mill certainly fits that criteria...classic and reliable. I will admit it would be nice to step up to a hydraulic mill for getting logs on the deck, but part of me also likes keeping it as simple as possible. Even though I have electric raise/lower and forward back...the motor/belts/reducer are about as simple as you can get so no worries there. 
Contact me via PM, willing to help with projects for more experience
1986 Woodmizer LT30, STIHL MS261C, 1997 Dodge 2500 CUMMINS

badger1

Thought I would give an update, I finally had a chance to play with the sawmill a week ago or so. I replaced the spark plug, new oil, new air filter, new battery, fresh gas and topped off the windshield/pinesol water basin and sprayed teflon on the slides, greased the zerks. She fired right up! 

I noticed that the blade has plenty of surface rust on it from sitting over the winter. I have read that maybe you shouldnt keep the the blade under tension during storage? Remove the blade normally for storage? 

This brings me to the next question. I have all the original manuals for the mill, these include a section on blade changes. I have never changed the blade yet since the original cuts I did when I picked up the mill. I was given 3 brand new extra blades with the mill and I would like to put one on. Does anyone have any basic pictures of how to do so? The elderly gentlemen that I bought the mill from didnt give instructions really on blade changes (I dont know how much he actually used the mill anyhow) so although I have read the manual, I would like to make sure I am doing the change correctly. Anyone who has an older mill have any descriptions/tips or pics of a blade change?

There are no Youtube videos on blade changes really that I have found, especially on the older mills. 

I registered her with WM. Got my card in the mail and am all set to go to order blades and probably some belts. She is in good shape and shines after I serviced it. The belts look fine but I would like to replace them just to make sure its 100% since I have owned it, I usually like to go through everything I own right away when I get it to have a fresh starting point. 

Any other tips anyone has? I have the maint instructions from the manual and bought the recommended ATF, teflon spray, grease/lube etc and went through everything, the last thing I need to do is swap out the blade and make sure the tension is set correctly. I'd also like to inspect the rollers etc. I do better learning visually than reading old instructions. Any help is appreciated. I also considered finding a guy locally that has a mill and maybe see if he could show me or walk me through what he does. If all else fails I could have WM come out for $500 in the fall and do a full service but I think I have everything dialed in besides the blade and blade components so I dunno if $500 is worth having a tech come out? 

Love the mill and excited to starting working it.
Contact me via PM, willing to help with projects for more experience
1986 Woodmizer LT30, STIHL MS261C, 1997 Dodge 2500 CUMMINS

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