I figure with all of the questions I am going to need help with i mine aswell make one topic and ask them all in here as they come up. This way I am not starting a new thread for every question.
I live in Michigan in 10 acres and have been wanting a mill for a few years now. I plan to build it stationary on concrete piers and mill trees from my property to build a barn around the mill so that I can use it indoors and have a heated space in the winter. Hoping to make the mill electric So I can run it indoors.
I am currently on the gathering stage of this build and have so far accumulated all of the steel that I will need as well as a few other odds and ends.
Now onto my first question...I have a 10hp three phase motor that actually came off an lt-15. I do not have three phase power... looking at this tag on the motor can anyone help me in the right direction of what sizes VFD I will need to power it? I know that I could get a rotary converter but from what i have seen the cost on those is pretty high compared to a VFD.
Here is the plate on the motor:
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I think you are going to find that you need about a 20 HP VFD after the derating for single phase. The manufactur can tell you. Muggs
im with Muggs, contact the manufacture. its their product, they should know better than most any else, what is required. you could even contact the VFD manufactures and explain what you have and what you are wanting to do and see if they have viable solution. google is friend too.
about 30 sec searching on google. look at the vfd section, it even brings in a 10 hp motor as an example.
How to properly operate a three-phase motor using single-phase power - Plant Engineering (https://www.plantengineering.com/articles/how-to-properly-operate-a-three-phase-motor-using-single-phase-power/)
I always say make it long. ;) Much easier to have more track,than just a few inches more. Mine mill will cut a 20 foot log. I can roll a 16 foot log on and have plenty of room on both ends.
The Cfarm, it's going to be around 24' of track. I probably will never use the full length but it will be nice to have if I need it.
I did a few google searches prior to asking here and did not find that specific site. I will contact the manufacturer as well to see what they have to say, thanks for the tips everyone.
Curious as to what you found out for the best vfd for your application to fit your motor
I think I am going to end up with a Hitachi SJ700 that is rated for 15hp. I talked to an electrician at work and he said I should sell the 3 phase and buy a single phase 10hp if I want electric. So my motor choice is still up in the air.
On a side note I scored big at work today. Got these 10.5' long bunks from a toboggan run that they tore down. 3/16" galvanized tubing so I think I found my new track/bunk.
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I was planning on using this trailer for it but this will be a nice upgrade.
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good deal on the power system, if you stay with the 3ph. I'm NO spark chaser, but from reading what these guys say about 110v ac drawing 2x the power as 220, stay with 220. im sure you will have it on a pot so you can adjust the speed during start up/shut down, but would a soft start be better than a stand alone pot?
good score on the reclaimed frame/bunks. iv missed out on several scores at work bc i didn't my tck, and the guy that drive in, get to take hm the prices. I'm waiting on the long lines to get inspected, and if 1 doesn't pass, iv got someone that will "secure" it for me, just gotta drive to id to get it.
I run a VFD on my vertical mill. Why the aversion to a VFD?
Quote from: Crusarius on February 06, 2019, 07:57:17 AM
I run a VFD on my vertical mill. Why the aversion to a VFD?
The electrician I know just made the point that since I have to purchase the VFD than I might as well purchase a single phase 10hp motor since they will be near the same cost and just remove the VFD from the system.
My old vertical mill I used to run a static converter. When I changed up to the one I have now I purchased a VFD instead. The VFD was $10 more than the static converter. Ebay has some pretty good prices on VFD's. My 5 hp VFD cost $60.
I'm in a similar place-wanting to eventually end up with an electrically-powered mill. I am finding this info helpful, as in a different thread, I was urged to go with a rotary phase converter. Looking at some of those online made my wallet hurt from inside my pants pocket. If VFD can work-and it sure looks like it can, then that's a cheaper option.
Thanks,
tom
If you go the vfd route, you will have total speed control. So if for any reason you decide to try a different band speed, it would be very easy. You also have very detailed overload protection. Also, the VFD will start very smooth with a little programming.
Thanks Boardmaker. Perhaps you can clear something up for me; Although possibly as much as 3 years away, I am planning a stationary installation up at my tree farm. There, at present, there is single-phase service. My question is, in selecting motor from WM, the saw rig I think I'm going to end up with, they offer both 3-phase and single-phase. In my scenario, which one do I choose? In reading about VFDs, it seems they can work with either, so long as other parameters are sized correctly. And such a price swing! What kind of cost am I looking at if I were to purchase a unit suitable for use with a WM 10-HP-rated motor? No, I don't know the full load amps of said motor(s), but am seeking that info from manufacturer.
Thanks,
tom
If I was buying a mill from woodmizer and had the option I would not buy the 3 phase motor unless I had the power already.
The reason for me using the VFD is to replace that motor with single phase I was looking over $600. $60 into the VFD was a no brainer. But when ordering a mill the cost would probably not be much different?
I think you will find that a 10 hp single phase motor will pull about 50 amps at FLA .
Thanks Crusarius, but I remain confused. A website I was just at said to use VFD "only" with 3-phase motors. Meanwhile, I thought the reason, or one of the reasons, to use a VFD was because you had single-phase but wanted to show the motor on your saw 3-phase. I'm clearly not getting this. The good news is I've got lots of time, but I sure am getting contradictory answers.
In my initial post-not this thread-I was almost getting shouted at that it would be stupid to even think about running an electrically-powered mill if I don't have 3-phase power available at the site (I don't-it's single-phase). Then somebody kindly suggested rotary phase converters...and when I priced those, my mill costs were suddenly going up exponentially. Then, someone said use VFD. So I looks at them online and wow.....huge price range, huge range of applications. I get it that one needs to match motor info plate with specs for unit.....but still, not at all sure where I'm trying to get. Sawmill manufacturer offers unit I'm interested in with single-phase or 3-phase motors. Also not sure what's up with that. Of course, again obviously, that would be a choice depending on what kind of power you've got. But then reading specs for RPC'S and VFD's makes it seem-maybe-that I should run only 3-phase equip. Again, that would seem to contradict the reason for installing the VFD or rotary phase converter in the first place. To my confused mind, anyway!
I would like to some day be running an LT-15-like unit, with electric motor powering saw. I will not initially need any additional powered devices off that circuit. Of course, my needs may change later, and I wouldn't mind being set up for that eventuality. But basically, I just want to power an LT-15 manual mill with electricity. I can't tell for the life of me what I should be seeking in terms of power, power handling and distribution, which motor to put on saw, etc. Final note...building ain't built. Probably going to be some combination of pole building, with enclosed, insulated "office" area with small living quarters. Saw rig would be in "open" area, under roof.
Thanks,
tom
PS...thanks muggs. Just saw your note. Most helpful.
A VFD is not only a phase converter. it does so much more. Many ppl run them on single phase motors for speed control.
There are alot of uses for a VFD. I am not all that familiar with all of them all I know is they work great for 3 phase converter.
The way they work is by taking the sine wave of your single phase input and then converts it to a square wave. I have no idea where the third leg comes from but I know you are now using a square wave to power your equipment. The square wave frequency can be adjusted to speed up or slow down electric flow. This is great for drill presses that have single speeds or if you hate changing the stupid belts.
Youtube actually has a decent amount of good videos on VFD's. Many of which helped me understand they are more than just a phase converter.
Quote from: muggs on February 06, 2019, 12:17:12 PM
I think you will find that a 10 hp single phase motor will pull about 50 amps at FLA .
I figured it would pull around double the 3 phase. I just need to keep an eye out for a VFD that will fit my application after it is derated. Also physically it will be much larger and that is another thing to consider.
Crusarius the VFD's for motors upto 5HP are very cost effective, after 5HP the price seems to jump dramatically and I dont want to get a cheap one that wont last long. Luckily time is on my side and I can keep an eye on one for a good buy, in the meantime I am going to work on assembling my track and carriage. I am excited to get on with the fabricating. Thanks for the suggestions, also on your sawmill build thread you had some great stuff on there that I will certainly use for referencing.
I have the VFD on my drill press, exhaust fan and metal lathe however they only range from 1 hp to 3 hp for the small VFD cost is not to high. but I like them as stated you have variable speed on them.
I don't think VFD's get derated. Static phase converters derate the motor after it drops the third leg. VFD's do not drop the third leg.
Thanks for the kudos on the mill build, you have any questions I am happy to help.
You cannot use a vfd with a standard single phase motor. If you get the 10hp single phase, just start it across the line with a starter/contactor.
In your case, I would probably just go single phase. I don't think the extra speed control would be worth the $$$.
However if your already had the motor, I'd seriously look at a vfd.
And for reference, the incoming supply feeds the vfd's internal power supply. It builds the sine wave by dc spikes. That's called the carrier frequency. Crazy to think that the AC is converted to DC and then it uses the DC to rebuild the AC sine wave. Could be anywhere for 6,000 to 12,000 or more spikes per second.
Thank you boardmaker and all. So if I were to purchase a mill with a 10-HP electric motor, and the manufacturer of the mill offers either single-phase or 3-phase versions of same motor...and I have single-phase wiring coming to my pole.....am I wishing to purchase the 3-phase version, then go with an appropriately-rated VFD to show that motor 3-phase supply?
Or do I go with the single-phase motor and just wire normally? At the onset of a similar thread, I was warned repeatedly that that would not work well.
Thanks,
tom
3 phase is definitely more efficient. But if you are not wired for it, it is an additional expense and more hardware to fail.
My opinion is get the single phase. It won't be as efficient as 3 phase but there is less other stuff to buy and break.
Thanks crusarius. I have just gotten off the phone with my electric power provider and learned a few things; Firstly, that is definitely single-phase out on that road. This individual states that the power co. will have no issues with a 10HP-rated motor on a device. He did say one could use an electronic soft start, which is a dumbed-down VFD, to start the motor. No need for variable power control in a bandsaw-just run at full power usually. I could go on to add planer, resaw...etc...so long as just one device was ever getting used at a time. Those devices are normally run at full speed as well. He did suggest installing sufficiently-beefy panel, transformer, etc. initially to avoid upgrade costs in that arena later. Makes sense.
Now I'm wondering why 6 or 8 guys were almost shouting at me in a different thread that I'd need a rotary phase converter to even think about this working out. Not at all the picture I'm getting from power co. guy.
Thanks,
tom
Truth is 3 phase is superior. But it comes at a cost. My personal preference is less things to break and less things to buy = smarter decision and more money for other toys :)
K.I.S.S.
AS far as I know, there are not any single phase soft starts available. And if there are, don't use one. If you lower the voltage, you will lower the available starting torque. And if the motor stalls, your starting switch will not survive.
The soft start capacitor on the hydraulic pump on our rescue truck is a terrible thing!!!
after so many starts the capacitor will blow. its a real PITA changing it. It is the hydraulic pump for the jaws of life. Needless to say we carry a portable unit on the truck for just such an occasion.
If you google Matt Cremona, he used a 10 HP motor with 10 HP VFD and saws everything without too much of a problem. The bad part about a 10 hp single phase is the tremendous input current rush at starting so you have to have a higher capacity system. The VFD is soft start, so no clutch needed or anything and starting is easy on components.
The 10HP chinese Huanyang VFD is $265 on Amazon. The sawmill load would not be something difficult for a VFD, as long as you don't fill it up with sawdust.
You should be able to find a 10 HP 3 ph motor for pretty cheap used.
A VFD system would be easier to run off a generator too if you need to go mobile.
Quote from: scrout on February 07, 2019, 02:32:40 PM
If you google Matt Cremona, he used a 10 HP motor with 10 HP VFD and saws everything without too much of a problem. The bad part about a 10 hp single phase is the tremendous input current rush at starting so you have to have a higher capacity system. The VFD is soft start, so no clutch needed or anything and starting is easy on components.
The 10HP chinese Huanyang VFD is $265 on Amazon. The sawmill load would not be something difficult for a VFD, as long as you don't fill it up with sawdust.
You should be able to find a 10 HP 3 ph motor for pretty cheap used.
A VFD system would be easier to run off a generator too if you need to go mobile.
I followed Matt's build but was not aware that he used a 10hp VFD for his 10hp motor. I am going to comment on his latest vid and find out exactly what he used because I am under the impression that with single phase input you must use a VFD that is rated for higher HP because of amperage.
Quote from: TreeStandHunter on February 07, 2019, 02:38:23 PM
Quote from: scrout on February 07, 2019, 02:32:40 PM
If you google Matt Cremona, he used a 10 HP motor with 10 HP VFD and saws everything without too much of a problem. The bad part about a 10 hp single phase is the tremendous input current rush at starting so you have to have a higher capacity system. The VFD is soft start, so no clutch needed or anything and starting is easy on components.
The 10HP chinese Huanyang VFD is $265 on Amazon. The sawmill load would not be something difficult for a VFD, as long as you don't fill it up with sawdust.
You should be able to find a 10 HP 3 ph motor for pretty cheap used.
A VFD system would be easier to run off a generator too if you need to go mobile.
I followed Matt's build but was not aware that he used a 10hp VFD for his 10hp motor. I am going to comment on his latest vid and find out exactly what he used because I am under the impression that with single phase input you must use a VFD that is rated for higher HP because of amperage.
He has a whole section within his build playlist that covers the vfd. He bought the wrong 1 at first, bought a sec 1 that had a board burned out, luckily the first vfd had the same board and he seapped it out. Then had issues with programming it and finally got it working.
@TreeStandHunter (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=36874)
here is Matt Cremona's motor section of his build. it is "episode" 11 of the 24 episode build.
The Drive Motor - Building a Large Bandsaw Mill - Part 11 - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xly9-91mmo4&index=11&list=PL0dX5redvVZQT-bJ-HNfrJEXlQJleCwun)
I've watched all of his videos, a few several times. I went through the comments on his motor video and he stated to several people that it is a 15hp VFD.
yes, he is using a 15 hp inverter. the sj700-110lfu designates 15 hp.
@ boardmaker; So then if I understand correctly...I would select the WM model with the 3-phase motor....if my plan was to indeed use either a VFD or rotary converter, in my single-phase supply world, correct?
Again, this is all just fun speculation for me, and an opportunity to learn a tiny bit about electric power distribution. But I sure enjoy the convo.
My Financial Director has not necessarily gotten on-board with the mill idea yet!
Thanks,
tom
Yes.
I had about 45 minutes to do some work before the kids got home from school so I started working on the track. I am hoping to come up with a way to scrap this trailer into a usable mobile track for the mill. The galvanized bunks I have are 3/16 tubing so any weight support will be done off that. The I-beam steel from this old trailer I'm going to mount off the side of the galvanized in two pieces, the first to use as the rail for the carriage to roll on and the second for the axle to mount to. Also I'll be welding some plate steel to the sections of galvanized to make where they come together nice and strong. This first weld was just getting them lined up straight
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Just fair warning. anything "I" shaped or "C" shaped will have a a tendency to twist. So make sure you support it properly. If your carriage rolls on the rails and they twist that makes for some very odd shaped lumber.
Thanks for the tip crusarious, I am going to make sure it is supported well and very solid. I'm going to purchase some angle iron for the carriage to roll on and mount it off the I-beams nice and true. Using scrap steel nothing is square so I am make this main track part and then will mount the log bunks to that square to the angle that the carriage will roll on, if that makes sense...anyways I got a little more done today, working here and there but made some decent progress today, I'm going to cut off the left leaf spring and only use the axle mount on the right side. This is my first ever welding project so it's definitely a learning experience. It will be mobile but only will move once or twice a year a few miles down the road to my fathers house.
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you have alot of pitting in your weld. You are either out of gas or do not have enough pressure to combat the breeze being outside. That needs to be addressed before you continue.
It also looks like you are not using enough heat. Is that a 110v welder?
It's a 110 arc welder. These are definitely cold, once the mill is together before paint I'll be taking it to my father in-laws to run his 220 miller on it on anything structural. I am aware that this 110 welder is not capable of making a trailer road safe. Also I just need to practice lmao. What can I do to not have the pitting? Is that forming because of the cold weld?
It could be from low amperage, dirty material, bad rods, not creating a flux shield and letting O2 into the puddle during cool down, moving to fast. Low amperage is probably the culprit though.
What size and type rod 1/8 6011? New box or box been sitting around in non climate control?
3/32 6011 rod that I keep in my laundry room, I assume it's just the low amps, maxes out at 80 amps but probably is welding at 70 realistically.
that is 100% dirty metal. 6011 is a relatively forgiving rod. If you can get it to arc it usually burn pretty well.
Don't be afraid of 110. it can do structural welds and be safe. the trick is proper technique. The problem is learning proper technique on something like this is not a great idea :) especially without a teacher.
3/32 rod with only 80 amps will definitely not have much penetration though. you be alot better with 1/8"
your actual welding technique looks decent though. just a little to fast but the puddle looked alright from what I could see.
I am going to the farm store to buy some buckets for maple sap tonight, I'll grab some 1/8th rod while I'm there. Thanks for the tip. I need a tractor with a loader this thing got heavy real quick
I had that same problem. the loader still not big enough.
I haven't done too much since this winter, finally got the track frame into the garage and now that it's getting warm I plan on working on it a few nights a week after I put the kiddos to bed. Still have to do a few more welds and remove The leaf springs and remount just 1. Then moving onto the other side. I switched rod from 3/32 6011 to 1/8 6011. These are my first welds with that rod I need some practice. I did clean up the steel where the welds make contact.
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Well I decided to widen the track. Was 24.5" now it's 36.25". I think in the long run the work to do this will be worth it. Its increasing the size of logs I am able to mill dramatically. Picked up this 1/2" thick I-beam earlier in the week and am using it as the main log supports, the rest of them will be 2x5 1/8" tubing.
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Did you try grinding the galv off first? Need to watch that it can make you sick. I would grind and try 7014 or 7018.
Ya I ground out each spot where I was going to be welding. I felt a little off after doing a little welding on my syrup evaporator that was an old fuel oil drum so that is a lesson I will only learn once. I think I am going to pick up some 7018 today.
looking good. You will not be upset about the extra width.
Yes wider is better I have a 31" read oak my mill will only cut 29 going to have to bib it down a bit.
Hey I'm getting back to working on it with the kids sports slowing down and me having a little extra time. Went a different route with the frame I was able to salvage some 8x8x3/16 wall galvanized tubing from work so I am now using those as my log bunks rather than the 1/8 tubing. I've also decided to go stationary for the time being and if I decide to go mobile down the road it won't be a challenge throwing an axle under it. Looks a lot more stout without those old I-beams on it. They already had 1/4" thick angle welded to them so my logs will rest on those.
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Been working on the trailer a little here and there. Got talked into going mobile by my father in law :) Seems my mind changes every time I do some work. The choice to go with the heavy tubing was definitely the right one....this things not gonna flex by any logs I am comfortable flipping by hand that's for sure. I got the axle cut down to size I ordered the mounting hardware that shows up tomorrow.
I have a question, a person near me has a bunch of the surplus center 18.75" pulleys for sale but they are 1 3/16" bore. Surplus center pulleys are almost $63 each now and she is willing to sell me 2 for $40. Is 1 3/16 a large enough axle size? If I mount the wheels as close to the bearing to support the load will that work? I was planning on ordering them from surplus center and getting the H bushing versions with a 1 1/2" bore but if I can use those it will save me a decent amount of $$$
Hopefully I have the axle on by the weekend then I can work on my backstops and log stops and cutting off the extra steel from these beams.
Here are the pulleys
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as long as you support that shaft on both sides of the wheel you will probably be ok. also keep them as close as you can to the bearings.
Good idea on making it portable. its so much easier to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
Crusarious so I would have to have 3 pillow block bearings on each axle is that what you're saying?
There's plenty of meat in the boss to bore them out for larger axles if you wanted. Guessing you don't have easy access to a lathe?
I suppose you would need 3 pillows for the drive wheel, one for each side of the band wheel and one beside the driven pulley. Unless you could keep that pulley quite close to the band wheel then you'd get away with 2?
Zero access to a lathe :D
That's a shame they are handy things for building a mill haha.
If it makes you feel any better I paid $400 for my band pulleys here in NZ haha :'(
I think you'll get away with it yep. I guess you have to weigh up the price of extra pillow and bearing too. That's a really good deal on the pulleys anyway.
Ya I have been following your build religiously and couldn't believe what you have to pay over in NZ. I am going with flange type bearings so I am thinking I can use 2 bearings per wheel I will just mount it within 1.5" of the bearing. The pain with my build is I am using all salvaged material so aside from taking forever it's not gonna look anything like what you have produced haha
Our dollar is weaker so it's not as bad as you might think. Minimum wage is $17.70/hr this year and on the rise. But we are an island really so everything has been shipped/taxed/handled etc =/.
I should have used salvaged materials, you're doing it the right way! A project like this doesn't have to cost much haha I was just impatient and wanted to keep busy.
your using flange bearings? any reason why? I prefer pillowblock bearings. You could probably get away with only 4 total bearings. The band wheel is what is going to need the most support due to the forces on it. the drive belt you will never be able to get it tight enough to damage the shaft. So the drive pulley can be in single shear (outside the bearing supported on one side)
I was going to use flange bearing because I thought they would be best lmao. I definitely can use pillow blocks, would they be easier to adjust for tracking? Here is an incredible drawing of what I am planning to do with the materials I have, photo drawn to exact scale :D
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You can get the idea from this pic, it will be flipped upside down in practice, one of the pieces will slide along for blade tension.
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I'd have thought pillow blocks will be easier. Shim them for height and slide in their slots for tracking. You'll have to do boxes on both beams (front and back of wheel) for the flanged bearings to mount I'm sure it'll be more work
I agree with josh. you can adjust the flanges but not nearly as well or as much. The pillowblock bearings are very much easier. Here is what I have for adjustment. they work great and are very easy to adjust.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45059/bandwheel_adjustment.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1505827490)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45059/IMG_2128.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1505908880)
Now that I am thinking about it you guys are right. I can just mount them to the bottom of the beam and get ride of the 2 off cut pieces. I have never built anything with either type of bearing but I can see how the pillow blocks would adjust easier than the flange style
Definitely easy to adjust. especially with the screw. I do highly recommend getting a dummy blade. I managed to get some 1.25" banding from the shipping dock at work. Made the best dummy blades. No biting :)
Got the axle on today. Gonna flip her over tomorrow hopefully. We'll see how that goes, I'll probably set it on some old metal saw horses I have and mount the tires then drop it to the ground. Thank god for skidsteers.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/46874/35CDA455-D9DD-40BA-A391-0088C52AB8E8.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1570067014)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/46874/F21362F4-7C21-42F0-8186-0EF5F3271A4C.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1570067013)
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Got her flipped over and on the wheels. The log bunks sit pretty high I may try and figure out a different setup to lower it by a few inches. Gonna make up some removable fenders for it and get the log dogs and clamps made up in the next week or so
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/46874/C06158D9-2DEB-423C-AD3B-5FD20C1A02B4.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1570125519)
That 6" on top of the axle is completely unnecessary.
It's 8" 8)
The 8" tubing above that is bent like crazy from when it was wrapped out with the excavator from its old use. My plan was to move the angle iron that the carriage rolls on onto the tubing that the axle is mounted to so that it can actually be straight. The angle that's on now curves to the right almost 2 full inches.
Also the tubing above where the axle is mounted is not 1 full length price it is welded in the middle so I figured that 8" tubing would support the weak spot in the middle
I can't quite tell in that pic is the axle on top of the springs or underneath? It is on the bottom, flip the axle so it is on top of the springs.
oh, hey. Look. a pic of the spring. Flip the axle. That will lower the trailer a good 4"
That's a great idea I should've done that in the first place. Thanks crusarius.
It a terrible idea. But I am famous for those :)
Hopefully there is enough space to do that. there should be.
Im pretty sure there is. 4" lower will give me a pretty comfortable height for moving lumber off the mill. I know it's going to look pretty goofy with the track being on that lower tubing but I don't know of any other way to get the track straight, using the salvage steel is great for cost savings but the trade off is working with imperfect materials
When I built my log arch I used reclaimed steel. More than half of the fab time was spent cleaning it up. It only cost me my time though. I really prefer to work with clean new steel. Especially on something that I need straight.
That did the trick Crusarius. I got the axle position perfect, moved it by hand with nominal effort about 20 feet so it was outta the way of my wife's parking spot :D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/46874/398D2D71-8233-4CAC-8FEC-2F965659BFBF.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1570142674)
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Perfect. looks easy to put a fender on that to.
I am to the point where I am gonna start on the sawhead. I have an opportunity to get this old bandsaw for next to nothin and am curious what you guys think about using the parts from it (the 36" wheels) for the mill. The price would be cheaper than buying the 19" surplus pulleys for the wheels. I have heard that these old bandsaws have to run at a slower rpm though because the wheels can fail and come apart at fast speeds? I am up for the hassle of making this work for me I just want to know that it will be safe to run it. What do you guys think?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/46874/367F2E88-24C2-48D9-8BC8-EAA3C2778B70.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1571682957)
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I think I would rather have that in my shop. If you go with 36" wheels your going to need a very long band to get any type of cut width.