Saw head location on trailer for transport?

[Jhoff]

I have a bandsaw mill on a trailer. I was wondering if it's better to have the saw head all the way up by the trailer tongue or pinned back over the axle during transport ? The trailer is 20' long and the axle is to the back of center by about 3'. It is set up identical to an lt15go. I have hauled it with it up by the truck and it works great but all the weight is on the tongue of the trailer. The tongue is built strong enough to support the saw head. What are your thoughts. Thanks.

[WV Sawmiller]

    My LT35 has a pivot point about half way down the trailer. I am sure the WM engineers figured out where it had the best weight distribution on the tongue and wheels. I think the book says, and seems about right, that the tongue weight is about 150 lbs in that position. They designed it with a flip up/flip down travel pin and a hole in the head frame that rests on it and a safety chain to make sure it stays there and doesn't bounce off during transport.

[DPatton]

TimberKing does their a little different. They lock down the saw head into position slightly behind the trailers axle for traveling. In the attached photo you can see one of the two bolts used for locking the head for travel (it is hanging down off the side of the frame rail, there is one on the opposite side as well). You also get some idea of the head position in relation to the axle when in travel.





In this photo the bolt on the side of the rail is in place holding the saw head in position and ready for travel.

[Brad_bb]

What sawmill do you have?  Is it home made?  I assume you mean your sawmill is built on a trailer and is one unit with it's trailer axle/frame?

If that is the case, it's like with any trailer.  You want the weight distributed about 60-70% in front of the axle, and 40-30% behind the axle.  And you don't want to overload the tongue.  It's pretty easy to determine how your track is weight distributed because the track should pretty much be uniform weight along it's length unless you have accessories bolted to it like hydraulics/pumps/motor/cylinders etc.  What percentage is in front and what percentage is behind the axle?  Same goes for the head.  My woodmizer has the head slightly in front of the axle, and more track in front of the axle to get a weight distribution like I mentioned.  Too much weight behind the axle, or 50/50 distribution and the trailer will fishtail and jacknife.  Too much weight forward and you could have too much on the tongue/hitch and compress your rear suspension too much.  Post some pics.

[Bruno of NH]

I have a Thomas Bandsaw Mill 
My head goes 6 " to the back over the axle for travel.
It Towes great.

[SawyerTed]

Too much tongue weight is as bad as too little. 

Too much hitch weight causes the front of the tow vehicle to lift, reducing front braking power.  It gets worse if you have to stop hard. I had a 1985 3/4 ton Suburban and didn't adjust my drawbar height to tow a boat level.  In a hard braking situation the tongue pushed the rear of the Suburban down and the front wheels locked. No steering and no front braking. It was a tense few seconds.  I was able to stop without incident other than my under drawers were totaled.  Keeping the tow vehicle relatively level and the trailer tongue level is critical for sufficient braking power. Needless to say when I got to my destination, I adjusted the height of my hitch ball. 

You want the weight somewhere forward of and carried mostly by the axle(s) of trailer.  Tongue weight should be 10-15% of trailer weight. 

[Jhoff]

It's a home built mill. I built it identical to the lt15Go. I just drilled holes in the side rails to use 4 top pins to lock the head just over the rear of the axle. The whole thing is still weight forward on the tongue but significantly reduced the tongue weight on truck. The only thing I worry about is my axle is narrow. I cut it down to about 3'-8". With the saw head to the front, I didnt have to worry about it tipping over on an off camber slope. I guess I'll give it a try and see how it works. Thanks for all the help guys.

[Jhoff]

Photo

[attachment deleted by admin]

[Jhoff]

Sorry, I'm new to posting photos. Still trying to figure it out.

[SawyerTed]

That is a very nicely done home built machine!  

[doc henderson]

hey Jhoff. Welcome to the FF sawmilling family. you can actually get a bathroom scale and place the tongue on it.  The front tongue jack is close, but putting the tongue on something like a block of wood that can rest on the scale is better.  Do not use your wife's favorite stuff. lol.  you can look up max tongue weight for you vehicle and run the carriage forward,  I think you will want about 150 to 300 # on the tongue.  Too little weight can lift and un-tension your back springs and make towing unstable.  then take it for a drive and see how it handles.  I once got a load of rock in a little 5 x 10 trailer, and it was heavy on the back of the trailer.  I was pulling with a bronco 2 and as I headed down the steep side of the rock pile, the trailer started picking up the back of my truck and setting it down side to side.  I hit the trailer brake actuator and made it to the bottom.  Had I stopped using the vehicle brakes, prob. would have jack knifed.

[Jhoff]

Pic

PHOTOS MUST BE JPG PDF NOT ALLOWED

[attachment deleted by admin]

[doc henderson]

That looks professionally done.  Might be interesting if you are by a scale to check your total weight sometime.

[Magicman]

@Jhoff  Go to the last topic on the index page for picture posting tutorial: Updated Photo Posting Tutorial in Technical Support Topics

[Jhoff]

Thanks. It has taken me 2 north east winters to build. I just put the tongue on the scale and I'm getting 191 lbs. I pull it with 3/4 ton Cummins, so the the truck won't even feel it.

[doc henderson]

sounds about perfect, if it sounds like the ball or receiver are rattling up and down as you drive, you can just go forward a little with the gantry for more Wt.