I have a 38"+dbh White Pine in my yard and I'd like to remove a limb from it that is around 18" diameter!
Is there a best time of the year to remove large limbs from W/Pine without pitch running down the tree so much?
Later in the winter well after the trees have "hardened off" in your area. That's a good sized limb.
Ron is right. Winter would be best but don't be surprised if it starts weeping sap in the spring anyway.
Yes, it may weep sap in the spring as the weather gets warm until it seals itself. Paint the wound with roofing asphalt (tar) or other thick sealer as soon as it is warm enough to do so will help slow the sap flow out of such a large wound.
Thanks for the replies Ron & Gary!
Remember trees don't heal they seal. So it will take a long long time to close over a wound this large. The smaller the wound the quicker the closure rate allowing less time for fungus and insects to take hold. White pine rots fairly readily from wounds. And a wound this big could doom your tree.
I always recommend reduction pruning instead of large trunk cuts. Cuts made further out on the limb will seal quicker and not.introduce rot as quick into the main Bole. Is this an option?
Also. I disagree wholeheartedly with advice on tar etc for the cut. It has been shown (with science) that trees seal quickest with no help from humans. The only case where science recommends a wound treatment is on oaks trying to keep out oak wilt. Most wound sealant is simply snake oil and an old school idea that has been debunked over and over.
My two cents
Yes, you are correct that tree wounds do not require a sealer as a common practice, but in some cases a tree may need some help depending upon the conditions and the landowner's views. In this case of a large 16 inch branch removal on a large white pine yard tree that will seep a lot of sap during warm weather may need some temporary help by applying a temporary seal. There is often an aesthetic concern caused from viewing the long term "shinny wood" exposed from such a large branch removal.
Forestry is not an exact science. ;)
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/seal-cut-limb-tree-49076.html
That is not a good source of info ron. That is Google trying to sell products and give bad homeowner advice. Try research through the ISA or the Forest Service. Alex Shigo spent years debunking the use of wound dressings.
Your argument is purely aesthetic. A wound dressing will not help the pine tree. It will only help the homeowner forget that they knowingly made a gaping wound on the side of their "beloved" yard tree.
Yes, its a cosmetic thing, especially on large wounds. Aesthetic values within the landscape and especially those within the visual area of the homeowner's yard need to be considered. Vectors are also kept off the wound where there is excessive sap flow. This is particularly true on northern red oak to help prevent the transfer of oak wilt to or from the wound by the picnic beetle.
The pine sap is its own hardware store tar.
I don't think any homeowner that takes the time to get professional advice from qualified advisors and does research from reputable sources would find any need to tar over the wound on the pine tree.
Winter is the time to prune, but not too late. There has been plenty of research about the use of products that seal wounds. It does little to help the tree. I would make several cuts to unweight the cut at the branch collar. Leaving the branch in tact is asking for infection. Don't make a flush cut either. Cut outside the branch collar.
I figured "if" I take this limb off, I'd make the first cut about 10' from the tree, then 4', then the rest!
I agree 100% with Chep removing a limb that large on your White Pine will most likely doom it. It may take years but that will not seal over before rot is introduced into the trunk. Reduction cuts on the limb over a period of several years will be better for the tree overall. Mature trees do not seal over as quickly as young and with a limb that large expect 10+ years before it has done so. Also applying prune sealer will only help the rot and slow down the sealing process. As Chep said the only time using it is necessary is on Oaks and that is best to use a clear shellack.