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General Forestry => Forestry and Logging => Topic started by: Hans1 on January 11, 2018, 07:23:08 PM

Title: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: Hans1 on January 11, 2018, 07:23:08 PM
Looking at purchasing a 80s C5 TreeFarmer was wondering any issues or known problem areas to watch for. It appears to be in fair shape but I haven’t run it yet. It has a gearmatic winch and a 353 Detroit. The axel ends say CanCar on them. I am more familiar with Timber Jacks. Thanks in advance.
Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: Corley5 on January 11, 2018, 07:28:10 PM
Centrax axles used in late model C4 and C5s are hard to get parts for.
Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: lopet on January 12, 2018, 08:08:10 AM
If you are used to jacks you gonna have a hard time to adjust to a TF . They're a lot harder to get on and off, actually i don't know what those engineers were thinking back then. The axles with that rotary hub seal were a pretty poor design,but I think they were used on the jacks as well.
Five speed standard with high and low, pretty common and trouble free. About the gearmatic or cancar, some guys love them, some hate them. I will save my comment on that one.
If you're Detroit man that 353 will do just fine, if you're not a Detroit man, well then it will take some getting used to .  ;D
I still have a C5 sitting in my shed and had plans to make something out of it, just afraid  I am running out of time.

I guess it always depends how much you wanna use it, if it's just for hobby or firewood , or is it to try to make a living from it. Does that one have a kinda half steering wheel ?
Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: Hans1 on January 12, 2018, 06:22:31 PM
Thanks for the above responses. The Detroit is not a problem, seems much harder to climb in and out of although you can get out either side. One thing I did notice was all new bolts holding the axels on which seemed odd. The winch is off and they are replacing the seals on the winch where the power shaft attaches they are also replacing short power shaft that is just in front of the winch. Once they get this stuff back together I will be able to drive if and test it out.  I primarily cut walnut and have got by skidding with my dozer and a chain or a 135 horse tractor and 3point winch works but not ideal. I am located in Iowa so Skidders are pretty rare here and this one is close by.
Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: mad murdock on January 19, 2018, 10:04:53 AM
If you are used to tractors and dozers for yarding wood, the skidder will be a big step up 8)
Much easier to pull wood, and way faster than the dozer. Only issue is moving it from job to job. C5’s are a bit much for a 3/4 or 1 ton pick up to trailer. Though you probably bablu had a good idea about that. Good luck with the new machine!
Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: Hans1 on January 19, 2018, 08:31:04 PM
I got a chance to drive the Skidder the clutch is either out or at least the throw out bearing is shot. The guy that has it has been good to deal with and he is going to fix it as it is still at his shop. Also put a set of Bear. Claw chains  on the front. Looks to me the engine would have to come out to replace the clutch but not sure. The rear tires are loaded which should help. Any advice on the on replacing the clutch would be great.
Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: Corley5 on January 19, 2018, 10:46:07 PM
We pulled the Deutz engine and transmission as one unit to replace the clutch in the C4 I used to have.  We put it back in one piece too :)
Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: Logger RK on January 20, 2018, 05:57:32 AM
Iv done a C5 with a Deutz,with the motor in. Not a lot of work room,but doable. Also a C4 with a Detriot. The 4 with easier with the smaller 4 speed,and the 5 has a 5 speed.
Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: Stephen Alford on January 20, 2018, 08:35:13 AM
Not a bad job if you can do it in a shop. about an hour and a half. If you find a pilot shart for a 353 hang on to it. They are getting really scarce at least around here. Putting a hose off a grease gun on the throw out bearing while you have it apart will make greasing it so much easier down the road.  Glad your rear tires are loaded , they were light on the back end. When backing up a slope the rear would lift making steering impossible.  Added some digger teeth ,made a world of difference to make her stay put.  There are pics in my gallery. good luck with your beast of burden.. :)
Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: Hans1 on January 20, 2018, 10:00:55 AM
Thanks for the above responses some great advice there. The other question I had is about the brakes they do work but I was wondering if they are just a driveline brake or some other system. This machine does have a Cotta transfer case.
Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: lopet on January 20, 2018, 07:28:25 PM
Mine has a rotor with a heavy duty caliper mounted at the bottom of the transfer case where the driveshaft for the front axle is attached to.  Looks factory made to me and pretty solid, it is most likely from the mid eighties. Don't know anything anything about the earlier models.
Did you buy it yet ? 
Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: BHC on January 20, 2018, 08:58:49 PM
 i had my c5 for 15 or so years it a good machine

to change the clutch pull the seat and floorboards not the motor, I hang a pipe from the roof hook a comelong into it and can lift and slide the transmission back pretty easy. I have changed them a half mile back in the woods in a couple hours. You can have the clutch changed and back together in no time. Adding a lot more work pulling motor IMO.

over the time i had mine the winch (gearomatic) has given the most trouble,you can see a number of threads on them i sure, engine leaks oil and burns some but that a 353, it cheap to run and maintain.

Mine is a 4 speed standard i not sure where you ever use the 4th gear though, it not good machine for yarding wood long ways, but over all a good machine.

I look at center pins and cradled pins if i was buying  oil leaks at wheels, and rearends, over all a tough machine.
Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: BHC on January 20, 2018, 09:15:21 PM
 As others said just a driveline brake
my c5 has a micro lock on the dash but never have i been able to get it to work good. i always had good hydraulics and the blade goes down enough to lift the front axle when i stop or winch.
about once or 2 times a year i have to add a bit of brake fluid into the master cylinder for the brakes it on the under the hood on right side it don't take much maybe a couple of table spoons but it dose make a difference on mine.
Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: crazy4saws on January 21, 2018, 09:37:46 AM
Just as BHC stated its easy to work on the clutch. Just need a chain or strap and a chainfall/come along. Mine is a c4b, and while its still not running, I removed the transmission without pulling the engine. Just to give you an idea here are some pictures. 


Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: Corley5 on January 21, 2018, 09:50:22 AM
There's more room to work on the older ones to pull just the tranny.  The newer models have more structure to the cab :)
Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: Hans1 on January 21, 2018, 12:41:18 PM
Thanks for the pics and advice. It seems the end of the pilot shaft lost the retaining ring or whatever keeps it from traveling to far it works fine with a pair of vise grips attached but I would prefer a better solution. I did decide to purchase it the seller will help get the bugs worked out.  One other questions is where are the battery’s supposed to go. The seller fabricated a heavy steel battery box behind the cab and replaced the wiring and installed 2 new battery’s. They did a nice job on it but it does block the visibility backing up .
Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: Stephen Alford on January 21, 2018, 12:53:17 PM
Usually 2 batteries on the floor ,one on either side of the seat. Not my preferred spot. When you are boosting or working with them and you are standing outside the machine they are at eye level.   Went with the larger ford tractor battery . Does not fit in cars or trucks that well . never had one stole. Should install a kill switch on the batteries and one on the on switch.  Got to do what works best for you.   :)
Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: lopet on January 21, 2018, 02:07:59 PM
Yes originally left and right of the seat, terrible solution. smiley_thumbsdown
Look for a spot in the front, there should be enough room above the hydraulic pump. My first skidder had them located there with a hinge made in the grill and a lock, easy accessibly .   Otherwise build a couple of boxes and use them as steps, just make sure the tires won't touch when articulated.
Congrats on the deal, sounds like somebody is motivated to sell.
Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: Hans1 on January 21, 2018, 06:12:13 PM
That explains the battery box solution the original battery cables were worn and a hazard so those were replaced. I will add a master shut off as that really helped my dozer with losing charge after sitting long amounts of time. Almost 50 degrees today so no skidding for a few days.

Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: Corley5 on January 21, 2018, 06:32:53 PM
  I had an operator that was a real slob.  That was actually one of his better traits.  After I finally canned him which was long over due ::) I cleaned out the forwarder cab.  His hoard of pop cans, used blue paper towels, old gloves, sweat shirts ect covered the batteries in both back corners of the cab.  I can't believe the combination didn't  create a short and burn it down.
Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: Oliver05262 on January 22, 2018, 10:22:06 PM
Hans, just make sure the battery master switch is rated for enough amps to do the job. Cole-Hersee seems to be the best brand name. Cat master switches are the gold atandard. Put the master switch on the ground side. Easy to route the hot cable where it is protected, but since you have to be creative in routing the cables  to the master switch, it's easy to get one where it will rub or get pinched. Don't ask me how I know................................
Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: mike_belben on January 23, 2018, 11:11:34 AM
You really shouldnt interrupt the positive side.  If the master switch is smashed by a stick or has whatever internal insulation fail, it would fault the hot side to ground and become a resistive heating element, until it morphed into a BBQ.

Disconnect on your ground side.
Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: BHC on January 23, 2018, 12:10:27 PM
mine c5 is a D there plenty of room to pull the transmission
it has steel battery boxes on both sides of the seat never had a issue but i did cut an old inter tube and lined it with a long enough flap to cover the top of battery's, not sure it dose much but it seemed like a good idea when i did it.
there a bear to get in and out have to just about tip them on there side.
My shut off is behind the seat and is and always been on the positive side i am pretty sure it original. both positive wires from the battery's go into it and 1 goes out to starter. I have replaced the wires a few times.
I always boosted off the starter when i need to, it easier to get to and i know that the current is there and a good ground. hooking up to the main connection i am not crossing the selionod but using my push button on dash, It will back feed and charge battery's as well but master needs to be on. You can have your master off and start the machine.
there a good skidder there days that i wanted to trade it for a timberjack just for getting on and off, but i know what mine is and i wount now, and the wood market here would not justify it.
Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: Hans1 on January 23, 2018, 07:34:13 PM
Thanks for th
Title: Re: C5 Tree Farmer
Post by: Hans1 on January 23, 2018, 07:45:04 PM
Thank for all the advice I was planning on the cat shut off as that’s what has finally worked on the dozer. They got the push rod repaired and we hauled it to my farm to test it out. Unfortunately the test was cut short  the main drive line break stuck on and started smoking. I pulled the side access panel and the floor boards and can see the break but not exactly how it works. It appears the brake reservoir is on the front right side above the engine and has a steel line to a rubber line to the brake. There is also a micro lock type brake but that one is cut and not operational. Will try to post a pic .