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Author Topic: Considering port work on Stihl 362  (Read 2612 times)

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Offline dsroten

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Considering port work on Stihl 362
« on: December 21, 2018, 09:30:23 AM »
I've got a Stihl 362 that has been a decent saw, but just lacks a little power it seems.  I guess when I got my 660 it really made the 362 seem like a slug but I know that isnt fair.  

At any rate, I've been considering shipping off my 362 for a woods porting, but am wondering if its gonna be worth the cost, or would I be better off to trade it off and pick up a 440/460/461 something in that size range.  I use it mostly for bucking logs at landing but it backs up my 660 as stump saw from time to time. 

Anybody have a experiences that might help me decide?

Offline teakwood

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #1 on: December 21, 2018, 09:56:56 AM »
The 462 would fit you well, powerful and light, pricey though. 
 How much is porting for one saw?

How about a muffler mod on the 362?
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Offline dsroten

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #2 on: December 21, 2018, 12:29:28 PM »
I think 350-400 for port work.  I'm trying to decide whether to do it or take that money plus my saw and trade for a new one

Offline teakwood

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #3 on: December 22, 2018, 07:36:48 AM »
That would definitively be too much for me to invest in a 60cc saw. i don't think the gain of power will be worth it on a mid size saw.
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Offline mike_belben

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #4 on: December 22, 2018, 09:05:44 AM »
Thats an expensive port job for whats involved.
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Offline Mad Professor

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #5 on: December 22, 2018, 11:50:41 AM »
Is it EPA carby or M-Tronic?

The early 362s I saw were a clusterf#2# carb setup, and M-Tronic you are going to need a dealer to recalibrate.

Besides that, I felt the 362 felt like a big fat box with a bar and handle, compared with a 036 or 361.

If you can tune it, what about opening up the exhaust and setting the squish? Might be best bang for the $$$

Offline ehp

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #6 on: December 22, 2018, 01:52:13 PM »
362 port well , done lots of them . The Mtronic will set itself . If it was me I would go up a size and get a new 461 or 462 . The 461 is heavier than the 462 but does have abit more torque . The 462 is nicer to run thou falling timber all day

Offline Mad Professor

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #7 on: December 22, 2018, 03:02:15 PM »
This came up recently on another website/forum.

M-tronic will "reset" itself.  But you need dealer software to tweak it for modded saws to be at their best.

I'll stick with my good ole BLC (before limiter cap) saws, they tune up fine with a screwdriver they came with......unless a monkey is twisting the screwdriver.......

Offline lxskllr

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #8 on: December 22, 2018, 03:09:16 PM »

unless a monkey is twisting the screwdriver.......
That's me!  :^D
I like Mtronic. I don't have to worry if I'm killing my saw through ineptitude.

Offline Mad Professor

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #9 on: December 22, 2018, 03:34:00 PM »
I guess I like old technology that still works. ;D

I have a 39 9N ford that will brushhog fields all day on a 7-gal tank of gas, and what's in the toolbox/lunchbox will fix almost all that can go wrong. Paid $1200 for that in 1988, came with: tire chains, scraper blade, 2-bottom plow, lift bucket, 3-ph attachments. Still + ground 6V that starts in Oo F winter and plows the driveway.

A new 90cc saw costs near that, and won't last near as long.


Offline lxskllr

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #10 on: December 22, 2018, 04:08:30 PM »
I guess I like old technology that still works. ;D

I have a 39 9N ford that will brushhog fields all day on a 7-gal tank of gas, and what's in the toolbox/lunchbox will fix almost all that can go wrong. Paid $1200 for that in 1988, came with: tire chains, scraper blade, 2-bottom plow, lift bucket, 3-ph attachments. Still + ground 6V that starts in Oo F winter and plows the driveway.

A new 90cc saw costs near that, and won't last near as long.
I can appreciate all of that. I don't like being dependent on anyone, and like the /ability/ to fix things myself, whether I choose to do so or not. My position on life is with enough time and money, I can do anything that doesn't violate physics. OTOH, I lack confidence, and don't have people around I can learn from in person. I also don't enjoy mechanical work. I can do a lot of stuff with cars with regards to keeping them going, but most of the time choose not to. I really don't miss the bad old days of carburetted vehicles. I'm more qualified to fix them, but they broke more, and I'd be spending more time fixing them. Modern vehicles, I just operate. When they infrequently break down, I send them to the shop.
As I wrote in another thread, what I like doing is cutting wood. I don't care much about the hardware, as long as it gets me doing what I want, which is cutting wood. I'm still really new to the chainsaw world, and by extension, electronically controlled saws, but if Mtronic holds up over time, I'm relatively cool with sending it to the shop every once in awhile.
Really, it probably boils down to a philosophical issue. Some people enjoy the gear, and keeping it going and/or lack the funds to buy modern gear that Just Works(til it doesn't :^P ). Others want to work on their primary job, and don't feel like screwing with gear to do their primary job. For the OP, I personally wouldn't throw hundreds of $ at a used saw. I'd be more inclined to go with the 462cm, or whatever saw he thinks will give the joy he expects. ~$400 is a whole new saw. I wouldn't like dumping that into the saw I already had.

Offline dsroten

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #11 on: December 22, 2018, 05:59:46 PM »
I played around and opened up exhaust a little today and gave a little tune.  Sounds better.  I'll put it in some wood in a few days and see.  I'm leaning towards an upgrade if I'm not satisfied. 

Offline ehp

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #12 on: December 22, 2018, 08:42:52 PM »
its just going to reset itself again anyways , ported lots to what most call race saws but I do not cause its on gas and after 10 to 15 seconds it sets itself and your good to go . I myself prefer a carb that I can set but the Mtronic works ok 

Offline ehp

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #13 on: December 22, 2018, 08:46:37 PM »
a woods ported 362 will out cut either the 460 or 461/462 up to the 24 inch bar limit in big hardwood . So get a 461 and have some one good port that, you will leave the 660 in the truck or use it to buck logs up and the 461 has a carb on it

Offline teakwood

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #14 on: December 23, 2018, 09:18:53 AM »
a woods ported 362 will out cut either the 460 or 461/462


Really!?  interesting to hear, i have never run a ported saw, just muffler mods and that already helps. Would love to try one out some day.  By how many % does the engine livetime suffers on a ported saw? and how much % of power do you gain compared to a stock saw (i am referring to a normal ported saw for professional use which holds up, not a race saw. 
Muffler mods i guess are around 10-15% gain of power.
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Offline Mad Professor

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #15 on: December 23, 2018, 02:50:40 PM »
a woods ported 362 will out cut either the 460 or 461/462 up to the 24 inch bar limit in big hardwood . So get a 461 and have some one good port that, you will leave the 660 in the truck or use it to buck logs up and the 461 has a carb on it
I'd like to see that 362 in 24" oak/ash/maple/beech vs a 460 with an 8-pin on the 460 w/rakers set correctly.
You think a ported 362 will handle 24" bar with an 8-pin?  Maybe so, wouldn't lean on it.  If not the 460 is going to smoke it.
Another question? How does a 362 feel, compared to an 036 or 361?  In your hands cutting.  Squishy springy AV some like, but how about having a big fat box with a bar and handle? 
Not like an 036 , and I like my 038Ms.......
Better yet, get an 064, light and nimble like an 036.  Port that or do an OEM 066 P/C.  What Holmen did with his 064 was one of the best I've seen, I wish I had time/$$$ for.  That thread has given me direction and ideas.
I've got a decent 064.......NOS/OEM P/C, 25" ES/RS B/C, HD filter, but not time/funds to deal with now. 
To be truthful, I think original poster has CAD (chainsaw addiction syndrome).  Keep the 362 and the 660. Make both run best as possible.
Then get another 70-80 cc saw mod that, then a little baby limber (020T?), and a bigger beast (open to that....).............

Offline ehp

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #16 on: December 23, 2018, 05:08:13 PM »
a ported 362 will out cut a stock 460/461/462 in hardwood pretty easy , I log and cut mainly bigger hardwood , 24 inch up to 36 inch is pretty common , on some jobs we get in the 48 inch range in oak and some maple . You have to see how your oiler works as that is the biggest draw back with the smaller cc saws and longer bars . My 562 husky likes 22 inch if Im cutting white oak which seems to be the hardest wood on bar oil, red maple or softer woods you can run a longer bar with no trouble . . 362 makes a good strong woodsport saw . Saw makes good torque which you need to cut hardwood , A woods ported 361 is faster in smaller wood but not in bigger wood . I cut for over 2 years with just a 562 in big hardwood , I figured I cut about 2.5 million feet with that saw and I just built myself another 562 with heated handles . 562 is not the fastest saw I own but sure is a lot lighter to carry on 45 degree slopes . I got a new 362 mtronic but have not ported it yet . I got to keep a few saws quiet as my landings sometimes are near houses and I do not want to pith any one close off with the noise , we ran a test using a 28 inch bar on all 3 saws , a 395, a 372 xt and the older 562 in red oak that the bar would just makes it threw, 395 was the fastest but just by a touch over the 562 , the 372 was a long long ways behind







Offline ehp

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #17 on: December 23, 2018, 05:14:27 PM »
I do not run a 8 pin gear on any of my 70's cc saws . We have tested that tons of times and video tape it lots to show people that what they think is going on is not . Even using a 20 inch bar on a 372 if you file your chain proper the 7 pin will always out cut the 8 pin if cutting hardwood like hard maple or oak . Im not talking a brandnew chain out of the box cause they do not cut and you will not see me falling timber with something unfiled , I gain a lot just filing the chain to make it cut .

Offline dsroten

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #18 on: December 23, 2018, 07:18:14 PM »
To be truthful, I think original poster has CAD (chainsaw addiction syndrome).  Keep the 362 and the 660. Make both run best as possible.
Then get another 70-80 cc saw mod that, then a little baby limber (020T?), and a bigger beast (open to that....).............

I wont deny that I like saws.  And I have thought about just buying a new 460 ish size saw.  But that's money I dont really need to spend and I have little use for a saw that's gonna sit in shed.  I have a 260 pro I use as a limber to go with the other two.  So I have little medium and fairly big.  
I got some poplar to cut tomorrow, so I'll take out the 362 and try it out post muff mod.  Maybe I'll blunder into a used 461 somewhere.  

Offline Mad Professor

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #19 on: December 24, 2018, 10:45:12 PM »
a ported 362 will out cut a stock 460/461/462 in hardwood pretty easy , I log and cut mainly bigger hardwood , 24 inch up to 36 inch is pretty common , on some jobs we get in the 48 inch range in oak and some maple . You have to see how your oiler works as that is the biggest draw back with the smaller cc saws and longer bars . My 562 husky likes 22 inch if Im cutting white oak which seems to be the hardest wood on bar oil, red maple or softer woods you can run a longer bar with no trouble . . 362 makes a good strong woodsport saw . Saw makes good torque which you need to cut hardwood , A woods ported 361 is faster in smaller wood but not in bigger wood . I cut for over 2 years with just a 562 in big hardwood , I figured I cut about 2.5 million feet with that saw and I just built myself another 562 with heated handles . 562 is not the fastest saw I own but sure is a lot lighter to carry on 45 degree slopes . I got a new 362 mtronic but have not ported it yet . I got to keep a few saws quiet as my landings sometimes are near houses and I do not want to pith any one close off with the noise , we ran a test using a 28 inch bar on all 3 saws , a 395, a 372 xt and the older 562 in red oak that the bar would just makes it threw, 395 was the fastest but just by a touch over the 562 , the 372 was a long long ways behind
I beg to differ an you're a huskyVarmint person.
I have a bunch of stihl 038s made into quick 038M, all are faster w/8-pin. My 036s won't do that.
Yes, I'm the first one who made a 038 into a 038M, many many years ago...........

Offline ehp

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #20 on: December 25, 2018, 10:07:26 AM »
file your chain, the faster your chain spins the more power you are loosing on just driving the chain, You only need to gear the chain speed up if your filling the gullet of the tooth to full amount , After that the chain skips and rides the rest of the way threw the cut until its gets a chance to clear itself . This is not just here say, I have spent lots of time with high speed cameras checking and testing on how to make chains cut and what it takes to make what setup on which saw works best . Bigger gear also produces greater  engine heat cause of the stress , In the beginning I thought higher gear speed was the answer but I was WRONG , we played with a 325 cc rotax and ended up at 24 tooth gear size , now were down to a 18 tooth gear and made the chain cut proper with that chain speed with what torque band the motor produces and saw is a lot faster , its not just a single thing , you have to have everything set up to work together . The cr 250 bikesaws I have made all run just a 16 tooth gear  now if I build another one it will have a 17 tooth on it cause new engines are making more power . Even my ported 461's which are pretty strong only run a 7 tooth and out cut a stock 395 bad and I mean bad . If I put a 8 tooth on it I honestly slow down in timed video cut with the 461. Its all about mating the chain to engine torque band to what type of wood you are cutting .

Offline mike_belben

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #21 on: December 25, 2018, 12:22:11 PM »
Are any of your chain vids on youtube?
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Offline OH logger

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #22 on: December 25, 2018, 04:51:29 PM »
ehp I run ported 395s and have only ever ran 8 pin sprockets. would seven be better? im cutting big hardwood with a 24 inch bar. similar timber to yours I imagine. but on flat ground though
john

Offline ehp

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #23 on: December 25, 2018, 05:29:00 PM »
ya lots of chains videos on youtube and lots of other guys using chains . 395 should run a 8 pin , it has enough torque to pull a proper filed chain plus if you are using the big spikes that come with the saw and a 24 inch bar your only cutting abit more than what a 20 inch bar cuts on the smaller saws with the shorter spikes . We run 28 or longer on the 395's here cause of the bigger spikes . I read lots that say the spikes on the new 462 are way to small. I find them perfect for me . Now I will take a brandnew chain and not file it when its used to cut on the landing in dirt or mud season cause Im only going to get a couple cuts with it before the sand gets to it but I never take a new chain and go cut timber with it , a new chain just never cuts free and takes twice as much pressure to be a lot slower in the wood

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #24 on: December 25, 2018, 05:29:47 PM »

Better yet, get an 064, light and nimble like an 036.  Port that or do an OEM 066 P/C.  What Holmen did with his 064 was one of the best I've seen, I wish I had time/$$$ for.  That thread has given me direction and ideas.
M.P.,
Actually that was a 2nd year 066 Mag red light I rebuilt there with 064 parts to get the weight and bulk down. 064 flywheel, rewind housing, brake lever, top cover,  air filter setup, etc. Then I put a Husqvarna 162 top handle on it to make it even more lighter and compact.
I saved a pound gutting the muffler and getting rid of the dual outlet muffler front.
14 lbs 9 oz the weight of 461/572XP
Merry Christmas everyone!!


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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #25 on: December 25, 2018, 05:36:06 PM »
I really like the 1980's 064 air filter setup on the 066 without the intelli air compensation setup.


 
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Offline mike_belben

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #26 on: December 26, 2018, 02:48:10 PM »
ya lots of chains videos on youtube and lots of other guys using chains . 
Link?  
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Offline Greyhound

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #27 on: December 26, 2018, 10:59:38 PM »
I've got a Stihl 362 that has been a decent saw, but just lacks a little power it seems.  I guess when I got my 660 it really made the 362 seem like a slug but I know that isnt fair.  

At any rate, I've been considering shipping off my 362 for a woods porting, but am wondering if its gonna be worth the cost, or would I be better off to trade it off and pick up a 440/460/461 something in that size range.  I use it mostly for bucking logs at landing but it backs up my 660 as stump saw from time to time.

Anybody have a experiences that might help me decide?
It's kind of a tough choice between a ported MS362 and an MS461.  FWIW, I own an 026, ported MS261CM, ported MS361and ported MS461. I REALLY like my MS461, even before it was ported.After porting and modifying to high-output oiler it's amazing. But it is definitely heavier than the MS361.   It will easily pull and oil a 32" full comp, full chisel bar and chain in hardwood.  

If I were you, I would lean toward selling the MS362 get the MS461.  It's a very good saw stock.  Save up some $ and get it ported down the road.  Then the MS660 will "feel like a slug."  That said, no one would ever fault you for porting your MS362 either.  My ported MS361 is probably the "best" single saw I own, but it's quite a different bird from the MS362.  Maybe go to your local dealer and handle the MS461 and your MS362 and go with whichever one "feels" the best in your hands.  

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #28 on: December 27, 2018, 06:53:06 PM »
If these ported saws will outcut a 395, then I guess what I need is a ported 395. :D

I'm running an 8 pin on a stock 395 running a new Stihl RS. I had to take 3 strokes off the rakers to wake it up some. I'm cutting brush and small trees right now. I think in larger hardwood,  a 7 pin, and another couple strokes off the rakers would cut smoother. 
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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #29 on: December 27, 2018, 08:25:12 PM »
Im not a sponsor here nor do I want any saw work from here or any where else so with that I am not posting videos on here , I log full time but did saw porting full time for quite a few years , now I just port mainly my own stuff or friends that need saws done . Now back to the 362, a ported 362 will out cut a ported 361 mainly cause the 362 can be made to produce more torque than a 361 can , 361 can be made into a faster cookie cutter but for a everyday logging saw the 362 is a better choice but if it was me I would trade the 362 in or sell it and just buy say the 462 , Its a lot like running the 362 just better

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #30 on: December 29, 2018, 04:55:27 PM »
but for a everyday logging saw the 362 is a better choice


I'm interested in this comment. I use two 361 (muffler mod) for professional use in my plantations, i really love the saws, they are light and have decent power. For the next thinning in 3years with bigger trees i will upgrade to a 462.
I think i read here from some members that the 362 is way slower than the 361 and feels clumsier and fatter. You seem to love the 362 better. Is that because you modded them and like the 362 more? How about stock?
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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #31 on: December 29, 2018, 06:22:38 PM »
I have a pretty much brandnew 361 and have owned most likely 15 or so, If you cutting smaller trees say 16 inch on the stump or so the 361 is a better saw, but in bigger timber the 362 will cut faster cause of the new design engine , it produces more torque compared to rpms that the 361 . But the 361 to me feels better in my hands compared to the 362. If I get a red pine bush I got to cut I run the smaller saws cause most trees are 20 inch or less on stump . The newer engine designs cut bigger hardwood better with less engine heat so will last longer . Ported now it depends on what you want, a cookie cutter to show off to your buddies the 361 is better but a ported 362 will cut faster in bigger hardwood and last longer doing it , Ported 362 power band will be in the 12,200 to 12,500 rpms , Ported 361 can be that or higher and that depends on the porting , 13200 to 13500 power band and running on pump gas the operator has to watch very close on whats he is doing , Lean burn is right there , out of the wood you will be up at 17,000 rpms and that's about the limit unless you want to pull the crank out and get everything balanced perfect

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #32 on: January 02, 2019, 01:26:35 AM »
I've got a Stihl 362 that has been a decent saw, but just lacks a little power it seems.  I guess when I got my 660 it really made the 362 seem like a slug but I know that isnt fair.  

At any rate, I've been considering shipping off my 362 for a woods porting, but am wondering if its gonna be worth the cost, or would I be better off to trade it off and pick up a 440/460/461 something in that size range.  I use it mostly for bucking logs at landing but it backs up my 660 as stump saw from time to time.

Anybody have a experiences that might help me decide?
dsroten, I decided to bump this excellent thread you started. Lots of good reading here.
So have you made any decisions what your going to do?
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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #33 on: January 04, 2019, 07:45:48 PM »
I pretty much have made my mind up to take the 362 out of the truck and get another 462 to go alone with 2 - 461's and the other 462 I carry . I am liking the 462 quite abit , its light , makes decent power and for me its a better saw to have on hand than the 362 for my kind of work , 362 is a great saw but so far the 462 is just better for me

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #34 on: January 08, 2019, 04:27:33 PM »
EHP not using 562s any more? 

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #35 on: January 09, 2019, 07:27:14 PM »
I tried posting a couple times but nothing never happened

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #36 on: January 09, 2019, 07:28:46 PM »
I just built myself a new 562 with heated handles . Porting is pretty hot in it and mainly want saw when I end up cutting a pile of pine

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #37 on: January 11, 2019, 02:34:02 AM »
I do not run a 8 pin gear on any of my 70's cc saws . We have tested that tons of times and video tape it lots to show people that what they think is going on is not . Even using a 20 inch bar on a 372 if you file your chain proper the 7 pin will always out cut the 8 pin if cutting hardwood like hard maple or oak . Im not talking a brandnew chain out of the box cause they do not cut and you will not see me falling timber with something unfiled , I gain a lot just filing the chain to make it cut .
Check out this 034S running an 8-pin in hardwood.  Note the chips a flying!

Also a good example of tuning Hi by ear/sound


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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #38 on: January 11, 2019, 07:14:03 AM »
ya and its turning about 2500 rpms less in the cut than it should be once under load and listen to how the motor sounds . Its producing a ton of heat because your making it lug . You go ahead and run your 8 pin, I will stay with 7 pin, I have seen guys run 9 or 10 pin gears on saws , they thought it was faster but on video it was not  

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #39 on: January 11, 2019, 08:42:42 AM »
Yep my 395XP came from the factory with a 7 pin 3/8" rim sprocket for good reason.

Work saw with a round filed chisel chain no matter what cc 7 pin is the best.
Race chisel bit chain thinned out, cutter square filed half ways back, .015 lowered depth gauges you can get by with a 8 pin fine in smaller logs with a work saw.
But round filed chisel chain sucks the power out of todays high revving work saws.

Race saws....I once had a Stihl 090 I raced that was ported etc on a tune pipe. Madsens from the PNW saw pictures of my small logs we cut in our contests. They said you need a 11 pin sprocket on the 090, I believed them and got beat by the Mac 101's race after race.
Then I found out they were running 7 and 8 pin sprockets on the Macs, I put a 7 on the 090 and was then beating them or keeping up to them.

My 40 horse YZ125 bike saw I run a 11 pin sprocket. Works good for big and smaller wood.
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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #40 on: January 11, 2019, 09:32:54 AM »
My brother Dennis here ran a 7 pin on his Mac 101, he was getting times in the low 4 second range in 3 cuts with cold start included.
His saw has a 34mm carb and the pipe has a inverted stinger.
Look at them chips fly.


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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #41 on: January 11, 2019, 02:32:13 PM »
ya and its turning about 2500 rpms less in the cut than it should be once under load and listen to how the motor sounds . Its producing a ton of heat because your making it lug . You go ahead and run your 8 pin, I will stay with 7 pin, I have seen guys run 9 or 10 pin gears on saws , they thought it was faster but on video it was not  
Did ya look at the video?  The saw has a tach on board and it's doing 11,500 in the cut.

So you want to spin a 034S at 14,000 rpm?   kaboom!!!

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #42 on: January 11, 2019, 02:39:35 PM »
My brother Dennis here ran a 7 pin on his Mac 101, he was getting times in the low 4 second range in 3 cuts with cold start included.
His saw has a 34mm carb and the pipe has a inverted stinger.
Look at them chips fly.

(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

But how did he finish the cuts, after the chamber hit the cant? :o

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #43 on: January 11, 2019, 03:04:08 PM »
ya and its turning about 2500 rpms less in the cut than it should be once under load and listen to how the motor sounds . Its producing a ton of heat because your making it lug . You go ahead and run your 8 pin, I will stay with 7 pin, I have seen guys run 9 or 10 pin gears on saws , they thought it was faster but on video it was not  
Yea, sometimes ya need a 7-pin.
And those 034/036 don't have any torque either........

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #44 on: January 11, 2019, 07:58:33 PM »

But how did he finish the cuts, after the chamber hit the cant?



Seriously!! :D



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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #45 on: January 11, 2019, 10:26:32 PM »
its not turning 11500 in the cut when your leaning on it , Im talking the fastest way threw the block not making a video of a saw screaming doing nothing in the cut , Hell Man, over half the 0-81cc methanol /nitro stock appearing  saws are running a 8 pin so your going to tell me a saw of 60cc or less on pump gas is going to cut faster running a 8 pin and next time put the saw in some real wood, not that paper soft stuff , that's about like cutting white pine

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #46 on: January 11, 2019, 11:12:07 PM »
Well said Ed.
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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #47 on: January 11, 2019, 11:27:04 PM »

But how did he finish the cuts, after the chamber hit the cant?


Those Mac pipes are offset away from the power head to allow clearance from the log.
Here's two pictures from 1982 at The  Pas, Manitoba Canada during their winter festival.
In the  first pic is me with my 090 and my 2 brothers Dennis and Cliff in the back with their Mac 101's. All three of us were timber fallers at the time.
The guy with the red hat cutting with the 3rd Mac 101 is Jack Quinn a skiddder operator from the area. His cutting skills shows as he cut into a line on the log and was disqualified.
Last picture is brother Dennis winning it.


 

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #48 on: January 12, 2019, 09:53:59 AM »
who built the 090, I know Marcel sent a couple 090's out that way

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #49 on: January 12, 2019, 01:46:03 PM »
who built the 090, I know Marcel sent a couple 090's out that way
Ed,  I built it myself. Madsens  built the pipe did the cylinder.
I fitted a 100cc kart reed valve manifold on it and put boost ports on the piston skirt. Then installed the 34mm Mikuni alky carb. This was my very first hotsaw build. Trouble was I was running a 11 pin sprocket on it and never won many races.
As last picture shows at the time our competition was a 400cc Husqvarna dirt bike saw built by Husky dealer Jim Hayes from White Fox, Saskatchewan.


 

 

 

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #50 on: January 17, 2019, 06:40:32 PM »
ya that pipe could use a lot of help on the 090, first real racesaw I ever built was a 090 , the faster I made it the more money it cost in parts LOL, got to the point I think a top fuel dragster was more dependable . first real problem is the crank with the flywheel sitting out so far away from the crank bearings and case is sure a weak link, it would break a crank as fast as it came out of the wood , took new crank and machined it to take a 064 flywheel in close to case and bearing , put new 064 coil in saw. crank breaking was fixed so switch to methanol with 20% nitro . Got saw to handle that but then the clutch would not handle the power and once I got that fixed I could not get clutch to stop slipping on the crank . Sure was a learning curve but helped me figure out how to solve problems . It was pretty fast but just never knew when trouble would show up so parked it and went with 3120

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #51 on: January 17, 2019, 10:53:14 PM »
Madsens admitted the pipe was built for a Jonsereds 111 so didn't charge me for it. Still worked ok for size of wood I was running it in.
I had more plans for the 090 like a cut off head and epoxied transfer covers.
I did run it without the flywheel fan plate and got rid of the clutch. Made it direct drive with a 11 T spur sprocket and machined hub screwed onto the crank. Saved quite a but of weight and better spoolup off a cold start into the wood.

My next project was my last with the Yamaha YZ bike engine. Had alot of fun building and running  it over the last 30 plus years. Still a tough little little engine.

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #52 on: January 18, 2019, 06:23:00 AM »
i was running a 13 tooth at the end at a rpm the 090 was never meant to see LOL

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #53 on: January 18, 2019, 10:47:28 AM »
Ed did you ever see anyone put a full circle crank in a 090?
It seemed everyone in the upper level of competition back in the 1980's was running a stock appearing saw with those crankshafts.
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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #54 on: January 18, 2019, 05:20:21 PM »
ran I seen lots of full circle cranks , not really a fan of them . They tighten the crankcase up but you end up not being able to move much air inside engine compared to full race porting with a stroked crank . But the full circle crank sure makes building a carb a lot easier to run on methanol/nitro  , mainly cause it doesnot move as much air so no need for lots of fuel , The limiting factor is the amount of fuel a carb can move and how much torque/power can stuff like the crank take before it breaks , On gas you donot have this problem but on methanol/nitro you do have this problem

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Re: Considering port work on Stihl 362
« Reply #55 on: January 25, 2019, 05:13:38 PM »
On crankcase volume , there is a lot of things that go into this area and a lot more than a lot of people think goes into this , crankcase volume is very important on how much power a motor can produce . A stroked 3120 that is 60 mm bore by 46mm stroke has a ratio on 1.47 to 1 , the perfect ratio is 1.20 to 1 but to have that you would need to build a new crankcase with larger volume . Now on gas you could supply enough fuel to feed the motor at that ratio but on methanol/nitro that would most likely never be done , If motor was ported and piped to any kind of a race saw you just could not get enough fuel to it with a single carb which rules state we must use . The difference in hp is about double using a 1.20 ratio crankcase over the 1.47 . Main reason for double hp is cause the 1.20 crankcase  can move double the air volume and to make power you got to move air . You cannot compare a chainsaw engine to say a snowmobile engine. Most chainsaw motors are built with the bore/stroke ratio being totally backwards to a snowmobile engine so if you do the crankcase volume ratio on a snowmobile engine its a lot closer to the 1.20 ratio .


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