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Author Topic: How would you do it?  (Read 3193 times)

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Offline doc henderson

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Re: How would you do it?
« Reply #60 on: February 11, 2019, 02:28:48 PM »
not sure about your tongue wt., but I move my mill with skid steer and crane.  I can jack knife and spin into seemingly impossible places.  with carriage further back takes the wt. off, so atv might help in tight spots with short wheel base
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.

Offline CabinCreations

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Re: How would you do it?
« Reply #61 on: February 11, 2019, 04:14:34 PM »
I contemplated what else I could move the mill with to allow a little more freedom with the placement of the shed, but I would prefer to just drive through with the truck and unhook the mill or have an easy way to back it in and unhook. If I can't come up with a good solution, I will look closer into moving it into its resting place by other means. 

I have looked at the dollys that can be fitted with a ball mount. Some of them seem to have rugged tires and a good allowable load (600 lb) - has anyone else heard of or used something like this to fine tune the position of a mill? 
2011 LT35HD

Offline doc henderson

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Re: How would you do it?
« Reply #62 on: February 11, 2019, 04:39:52 PM »
my brother fixes the electric carts/chairs for vets he meets at the VFW.  He has thought of rigging up a little machine to move things.  I have a ranch hand front bumper with a receiver hitch built in.  i put my winch in it when needed but can put a hitch in it and move the mill or a trailer driving forward.  nice when it is long and curvey and you cannot see to the other end via mirrors.  long wheel base nice for pulling, short nice for backing with lots of curves 
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.

Offline doc henderson

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Re: How would you do it?
« Reply #63 on: February 11, 2019, 04:44:10 PM »
if you build your building and put a shed roof along the long side, it can be open on 3 sides.  pull through front and back. operate mill from the side.  collect sawdust up next to the building with a tarp or broom if you pour concrete
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.

Offline PAmizerman

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Re: How would you do it?
« Reply #64 on: February 11, 2019, 04:44:32 PM »
Correct. Once the mill is in there it will not be coming out until it's time to upgrade!!
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Offline doc henderson

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Re: How would you do it?
« Reply #65 on: February 11, 2019, 04:46:48 PM »
If you make the primary building 2 stories, may decrease footprint, and give a tall building to put shed roof off of and look cool
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.

Offline doc henderson

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Re: How would you do it?
« Reply #66 on: February 11, 2019, 04:51:22 PM »
my mill is in one spot unless it needs repair and or for camp Alaska.  If you are limited by 1,000 sq. feet, see if that is just the footprint or total sq. feet.  can have the sharpening up stairs, or build the equip. portion tall with a loft or mezzanine to sharpen blades.  Also can get building up and finish other areas as you go.  Will be pulling the mill out this week.  will take some pics.  Had some from another year but cannot fine them.
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.

Offline doc henderson

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Re: How would you do it?
« Reply #67 on: February 11, 2019, 04:55:48 PM »
The shed roof could have a tarp that rolls down on the side and garage doors or tarps at the front and back to weather in for winter, and so that inquiring eyes do not see.
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.

Offline CabinCreations

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Re: How would you do it?
« Reply #68 on: February 12, 2019, 10:59:50 AM »
I was thinking many of those same things, doc. I am leaning towards building to accommodate a second level now that way I can finish it later and still avoid the building permit at this point. That leaves the full 1000 sf for the mill and equipment!  

I am concerned about inquiring eyes, but the entrance will be gated (not that a gate stops everyone...). I'll have to keep brain storming. I contacted a few excavation companies to come out and take a look. I am hoping they can help determine the size of the area that can be leveled and to get a quote. I should be able to really start nailing down some concepts after that takes place. 
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Offline waynorthmountie

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Re: How would you do it?
« Reply #69 on: February 12, 2019, 11:21:33 AM »
CC

Looking at your Equipment storage area you would never be able to fit a tractor of significant size inside of it. Most are well over 20 feet long when including buckets and other implements.

Offline CabinCreations

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Re: How would you do it?
« Reply #70 on: February 12, 2019, 11:27:51 AM »
waynorth - I noticed that as I started working with the space a little more. I don't currently have a real tractor but plan to in the future so I need to plan for it. Any opinion on a reasonable length for this area? Thanks!
2011 LT35HD

Offline Tin Horse

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Re: How would you do it?
« Reply #71 on: February 12, 2019, 11:43:36 AM »
As I read all the great info here about saw mill sheds and pictures I wonder about trapped fumes and dust along with prevailing winds. I'm hoping to get my mill under a roof this year if time allows. For those with gas or diesel power are there any design regrets with your buildings? My mill is diesel power and the deck runs on a 6hp gas. I've got enough hydro at my proposed site to remove the gas engine and go electric. I realize dust pick up and fans help but I'm limited on hydro at this location. I spoke with an older sawyer who had his mill under a roof and hated it. It came back outside. He felt the wind was always the wrong way and engine fumes. He even disliked the increased noise. The picture shows basically where the mill would stay and extend the shed roof about 30'.
Thanks for any thoughts on this.

 
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Offline doc henderson

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Re: How would you do it?
« Reply #72 on: February 12, 2019, 01:01:11 PM »
On my log splitter, I did a remote exhaust pointing away from the operator.  hard to do on a moving carriage, but you can at least point away from the building to reduce reflected noise to the operator.  And wear hearing protection.  If it were to be mostly stationary, I would not want to put it in a garage every night and get it out every day
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.

Offline CabinCreations

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Re: How would you do it?
« Reply #73 on: February 13, 2019, 03:07:18 PM »
 Tin Horse - I am glad you brought up these points. I have been contemplating some of them (mostly noise and fumes) which is why I am leaning towards an open lean-to for the mill to operate in. 

I am curious what others have to say about those issues though, I'll stand-by smiley_computer_monitor
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Offline doc henderson

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Re: How would you do it?
« Reply #74 on: February 13, 2019, 09:45:09 PM »
My mill is outside but tucked into trees so you cannot see it from any road and if someone tried to steal it, good luck getting it out.  Lots of twists and turns.  I welded a 2 " receiver to my crane for my skid steer, and can twist and turn, jack knife and spin this 31 foot long mill almost anywhere.



 




 


lots to get ready before camp Alaska this weekend.
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.

Offline CabinCreations

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Re: How would you do it?
« Reply #75 on: March 15, 2019, 10:20:30 AM »
After clearing the site and pondering all the options for the new building, I had an idea - however I am not sure it is a good idea (or even practical) so I thought all of you may be able to chime in again!

So the site is on a slope (approximately 1-1/8" to 1' or a drop of 3' over the 32' anticipated length of the building). After reading more threads on here and pondering the construction of the old circle mill on the property, I thought I may be able to use the natural slope to my advantage for a portable mill by building flooring above grade instead of leveling and building on grade. 

My thought on advantages:
1. Not walking on concrete
2. No drainage issues
3. Downhill offloading of slabs and boards
4. Easy sawdust cleanup and potential storage under the building

My though on disadvantages:
1. Longevity/Stability of the mill + log suspended on the flooring
2. Would require a log deck
3. Would require a ramp for the mill

Is this a terrible idea, am I overlooking a fatal flaw, or is this a possibility? I can't say I have seen a mill shed elevated above ground but maybe one of you have. 

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
- Kody
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Offline doc henderson

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Re: How would you do it?
« Reply #76 on: March 15, 2019, 10:35:10 AM »
a wood floor will be damaged by dropped heavy timbers, and may need footers or pilings under the supports for the mill.  to many pounds per square inch for a wood floor but could be done;  if you are doing footings and a stem wall, you could split the diff. and have the uphill end floor be 1.5 feet below grade and the lower 1.5 feet above. you will want to have it level at the area where you bring wood to the mill.  I assume the mill is oriented the long way and you don't want to travel sideways on a slope with a lot of weight in the air.
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.

Offline doc henderson

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Re: How would you do it?
« Reply #77 on: March 15, 2019, 11:16:20 AM »
you could also go down 3 feet into ground at the top of the hill and flush with the ground at the bottom.  you can just back the mill in on the bottom side.  If you then did retaining walls out perpendicular to the long length of the building, the dirt from you excavation could give a level flat area to bring logs to and boards from the mill.  also it would facilitate a log deck on the ground that span from the wall to the mill.  can put some rubber belting or a tarp on the sawdust side and pull out, or on concrete not to hard to sweep up at the end of the day.  so now you sunk 3 feet below grade and water will roll around your building.  There are worse things to stand on all day, need good shoes with inserts.
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.

Offline CabinCreations

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Re: How would you do it?
« Reply #78 on: March 15, 2019, 01:07:13 PM »
Great point - I didn't consider all the impact loads that the wood flooring would have to endure. 

Both options you pointed out seem reasonable, but at the same time if I am going to have someone come out to level an area, it may just be easier to have the entire site leveled for the building and adjust the grading of the existing trail/road to tie into the leveled area. 

Plenty to keep thinking about but I appreciate the feedback!  thumbs-up
2011 LT35HD

Offline PAmizerman

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Re: How would you do it?
« Reply #79 on: March 15, 2019, 09:33:45 PM »
@Percy  has an elevated mill
Woodmizer lt40 super remote 42hp Kubota diesel. Accuset II
Hydraulics everywhere
Traverse 6035 telehandler
WM bms250 sharpener
WM bmt250 setter
and a lot of back breaking work!!


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